Removing Sea Drive

[Bygracealone]

Hey guys,

I'm seriously thinking about starting the removal of my sea drive next Monday, Lord willing.

I have a question about the steering components. Once the sea drive is removed, will I still be able to attach the existing hoses to a new hydraulic pump? Or will I need a whole new steering system?

Also, are there any tips or cautions I should know before removing the sea drive?

[willy]

BG on my conversion there is a separate steering and controls run thru a thru transom hole that was made with a new rubber boot set up, I never saw what controls were on the original sea drive, sorry no help

[Skools Out]

you should only need a baystar or same style steering cylinder at the outboard.

[chumbucket]

Other than the engine components, you should be able to use the helm unit and hoses, etc.

[reelapeelin]

Will the hoses be long enough??

[Blue_Runner]

That's what I'm wondering ??? Gonna have to get in there and do some measuring (if poss).

[Bygracealone]

I was wondering the same things about the length of hoses. Is the worst case scenario simply that I might have to buy longer hoses? Would it be crazy to splice another piece on to the existing hose if I had to? That's probably asking for trouble down the line, wouldn't you think?

Thanks for the input guys.

[Skools Out]

you shouldn't have any problem as long as you use the correct hose fittings and hose for the app.

[willy]

BG do new hoses if originals are not long enough and don't look back, one less thing you will have to worry about ;)

[reelapeelin]

NO SPLICE=NO REGRETS...there will be issues enough w/ out creating more ;) ...

[Bygracealone]

Indeed, you men are right. No splicing it is.

I think I should be able to remove the whole thing in a matter of an hour or two. Does that sound reasonable? There are only a couple of hoses to disconnect and basically four bolts holding the drive on the transom...

I'll be sure to take some before, during, and after shots on Monday and post them.

Thanks again for your help guys.

[macojoe]

You should be able to get it off pretty quick, But they are a heavy heavy unit!!
Make sure you have it hooked up good before you break it free!!

Once removed, check the transom for soft spots? But the one good thing with Sea drives is that they sealed them real nice when they installed them!

As for things being long enough?? What are you putting on there?
My bracket was 27" set back and everything was like 3 feet short.
I had to get a longer steering cable, and had to lengthen the wiring harness for the motor.

Sea drives make a easy convert, as a lot of people just put the bracket right over the hole in the transome and seal well!!

I don't like that Idea, cause if the bracket ever gets a leak its coming right into the boat.

[Skools Out]

the Sea Drive hole will be above the bracket on your boat. Remember your 248 had 2 patch spots on the inside above the floor. those were the pump holes from the twin sea drives that girl had. You's will have the same hole up high in the center. those can be used for cables and put a cable seal on the transom around your wires and steering hoses. Here's the pic you had and you can see the 2 patches for the sea drive holes.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/Wellcraft_250/248_Wellcraft_013.sized.jpg

[macojoe]

some of the old sea drives had a big hole in the middle also, I thought??

Thas even easier on that one!

[Bygracealone]

MJ,

Yep, there's a hole in the middle for my Sea Drive. *The picture Skools posted is a picture of the 248 that I sold him that had been converted from I/O to twin bracket. * *

I'm glad to learn that the hole will be above the bracket. *I'll do as Skools has suggested and run my cables through it. *That will keep things looking nice back there. *How well do those cable seals work? *Do you think it will keep the water from getting into the bilge area? *

MJ, how did you lengthen the wiring harness? *I plan on getting a bracket with a 30" setback. *If I'm able to get another Johnson/Evinrude I think my wiring should reach since it's already made the distance to the sea drive... *However, the steering hoses are another story and I think I'll probably have to replace them with longer ones...

[Skools Out]

yeah the wiring should work they are usually 15' or 18' some 20's and 24's.. That 248 was a Sea Drive originally so that's what you should see the exact same size hole as this one had patched.

[Bygracealone]

Wow, I learn something new everyday. I didn't even know that the 248 had a sea drive before. I thought it had been an I/O... I guess it just goes to show another shade of this greenhorn ;)

[reelapeelin]

Steering CABLES??...coulda sworn we were talkin' about a hydraulic steerin' system :) ...

[Bygracealone]

RAP,

Indeed, I meant steering hoses. You're right, we are talking about hydraulic steering. In my mind, I was also thinking about the throttle and shifter cables... My bad, good catch ;)

[Seacrets]

If you install 150 hp or less use baystar, above 150 hp use sea star. Bought a Baystar system on ebay for $465.00. It's an easy install.

[Bygracealone]

you should only need a baystar or same style steering cylinder at the outboard.

Hey Skools and others, now that I finally have my engine (96 200hp oceanrunner), once I pull off the sea drive, what do I have to do regarding a hydraulic pump? I understand what Skools said above about only needing a sea star steering cylinder, but is that all I really need? Don't I have to somehow remove a hydraulic pump from the sea drive and remount it or something? I'm so green to all of this that I'm not even sure the hydraulic pump is in the sea drive component. But there has to be a pump of some kind, right?

I'm confused ???

I ordered a lifting eye for my engine last night ($50 :-/) Once I get it, my brother and I will be going to town on getting some work done on my baby. I'll try to remember to take pictures along the way.

[reelapeelin]

Steve, as Skools mentioned earlier, you'll need SEA-Star for a 200 hp...did you get the steering system new?...if so, it should be complete w/ all you need including a new helm...the helm is the ''pump'' and no other should be needed ;) ...good luck w/ the whole project ;D ...

[Bygracealone]

Thanks for the post RAP.

There was a Sea Star cylinder and hardware for sale on Ebay that I thought I might have been able to get inexpensively, but it got out of my reach. I was going to try and keep the helm from the sea drive and use the Sea Star cylinder with it...

So, another question to reveal more of my ignorance: how is the pressure built up for the hydraulic system? Does the helm have an electric pump inside of it? Still a bit confused :-[

I'll probably just go with a no feedback steering kit and call it a day...

[pikfish]

It works by "direct displacement" in a sealed system. When you turn the helm it pumps the hyd. oil one way and draws it from the other direction. If you had power stearing the helm would be controling the fluid pumped by a power stearing pump.

[Hammerhead]

Best'o'luck with the conversion. Please keep us posted. I'm getting close to repowering my '20 from the 165 I/O.
What kind'o bracket you using? TIA

[msbhammer]

We all expect to see lots of PICS !!. ;D ;D ;D ;D

[Bygracealone]

Hey Hammerhead, I'm installing a Gil bracket that I'm buying from Kamikaze.

My Dad was kind enough to take the time to come out and help me with this project. *He's the one in the pic. *

Okay boys, here's where we are at after a day and a half of playing around with that stinking Sea Drive. *Now, I know why guys get rid of them. *I couldn't imagine trying to work on one of those things!

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1189.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1197.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1200.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1198.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1199.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1195.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1196.jpg

Hey guys, what would you recommend to use for filling in the hole left from the Sea Drive? *What about the the smaller holes where the mounting bolts were? *We plan on keeping the hole at the top to run the cables and lines through. *Let us know what you think when you get a second. *Thanks guys...

[msbhammer]

B.G. Great pics. Glad to see that you are working on her.
The transom looks pretty solid and thick. As far as patching, I can you plan on wetting and bounding several pieces together to get the same thickness, once you have that, slde her in the hole and cloth over it with West System, both inside and out of the transom.
Dont stop now, get out the grinder and keep working.
;D ;D ;) ;)

[reelapeelin]

Go get a 2'' Shop-Vac hose to run all your wires thru comin' outta the transom ;)...works like a charm and looks great ...perfect for your application... 8) ...

[macojoe]

for the screw holes use a wooded dowle soaked in resin, hamer in and cut iff when dry.

I would fill both holes as when you have the bracket on it will
one, seal the bracket for floation,
Two is you ever get a leak from the bracket it will fill the boat in no time!

To fix the holes I would glass from the inside of the boat to cover the hole, then you can cut ply, coat with resin and cloth and fill from the outside.

Then run the wires and stuff thur a new transom hole and vac hose, like this:

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/Picture_023.sized.jpg

[Bygracealone]

Thanks for the tips MJ. Will do. Cutting a new hole makes a lot more sense; a lot less turns for the cables and wires; straight run to the back. I like it. Also, great idea about using the dowels. Hey, no matter what CB says, you da' man MJ. ;)

We tried using that Tal-Strip paint remover on the transom to remove the bottom paint to get things ready to be painted when the glass work is completed, but the Tal-Strip didn't work too well for us. Don't know why... We did just as Skools recommended, but it looks like the bottom paint has pretty much stained the hull. We will try to clean things up a little better with acetone, but it looks like we'll be painting the transom. Here are some pics from today...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1201.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1202.jpg

[racerx]

good job. looks like ur moving right along. dont ya hate all those unexpected little hangups! keep at it and good luck.

[Bygracealone]

Well, here's some of the progress we've made this week. Sorry about the pictures at the end that were taken in the dark and rain, but I figured it was better than nothing for now. I'll take a few more in the daytime once Ernesto gets out of the way.

We installed 3 layers of plywood totalling one and a half inches thick, then glassed over.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1221.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1222.jpg

This is a shot inside the transom area behind the back seat...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1225.jpg

Then, we sanded the glass, filled in with surface putty, sanded and painted with poly. Not too shabby, huh?

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1223.jpg

Then, we installed the Gil bracket that Kamikaze so graciously sold to me. By the way, thanks again Kamikaze for the pointers and the aluminum...

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1227.jpg

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1228.jpg

[willy]

Looking sweet Grace, hope the rest goes smooth for you ;)

[axespino]

How much did the bracket cost? I have a V-20 center console that pretty open in the back and I would like to close it all the way in and then mount the bracket. I am alway afraid of getting a wave over the back and swamping the boat.

[Bygracealone]

Axes,

I paid $150 for it, but that's only because Kamikaze gave me a good deal. Other brackets will cost you anywhere from $350 for a used one to $1200 or more for a newer one with swim platform.

D&D Marine brackets (http://www.dadmarine.com/) seem to be the least expensive from what I was able to tell when I was shopping around.

Steve

[macojoe]

I got my bracket a Stainless Marine, with full swim platform.

It was a take off!! Go to some mariners around your area, and ask if they have one laying around!

Cost new was $1500 I paided $400 Keep checking your local paper they are allover the place!!

Good Luck!!


Good work Bygracealone!!

[axespino]

I might go look around Port O'Conner and see if I can find something. Thanks

[reelapeelin]

Lookin' good, Bygrace...keep it up !! ;) ;D ;D ...

[Mac_Attack]

Looking good BGA.Keep up the good work! Billy Mac ;D

[msbhammer]

Looking good Brother G.
How did you mount it, inside the transom. Bolts and a solid piece of metal, or just bolts ??, Snap us some pics. ;D ;D ;D

[Bygracealone]

Hey guys,

Here's a shot inside the transom per Hammer's request. We used two aluminum plates that Kamikaze was kind enough to give me as backing plates on the inside of the transom. This bracket took a total of 18 bolts! That baby is on there! I made a mess with the 5200... Oh well, all of that is hidden from the eye. All that matters is that it's sealed, right?

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1287.jpg

here's another shot of the bracket, this time with the new to me 96 Johnson on it.

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1285.jpg

And here's a shot of things after we installed the rigging hose (shop vac hose from Home Depot).

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f334/bygracealone/Sea%20Drive%20Removal/100_1286.jpg

I still have to install the no feedback steering and run the fuel line. I was hesitant to run the fuel line together with the electrical lines in the hose. Do any of you have any suggestions? Should I drill a separate hole just for the fuel line and the steering?

[macojoe]

Looks great!!

I just drilled the one big hole, then I ran the oil, gas, steering and all wires out the hole.
What went thur the Vac hose was all the wireing, the rest out side the Vac hose.

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/Picture_023.sized.jpg

[Bygracealone]

Hi MJ,

I drilled a good size hole, but just big enough for the fitting for the rigging hose. *I looked at your picture for quite some time as we were in the process of installing the hose, but couldn't make out what you had done. *Did you actually cut a hole in your rigging hose out of which you then ran the oil, gas, and steering. *In other words, do all of your wires and hoses run together until exiting the transom area at which point the oil, gas, and steering cable separate through a hole in the rigging hose? *

Thanks again for making your picture available. * *

[macojoe]

They sell a rubber boot for this, it screws to the transome and has a wire tie that you tighten up after you bring what ever you want thur it.

Yes the wires and stuff come thur toghter as they re like that in the boat any way.

They sperate when you get out side the hole just like you say.

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/Picture_261.jpg

[Bygracealone]

Thanks again MJ. Can you tell me where to buy one of those rubber boots? I may just drill a hole in the rigging hose for the gas and steering to go through... What do you think?

[macojoe]

I got the boot at west marine, or boaters world?? I forgot which.

eaither way will work I guess? I just like leaving them seprate cause if the oil or gas leaks it is going to make a mess of all the wires.

[Bygracealone]

I probably wasn't clear enough in my previous post. I meant that I would make a hole in the rigging hose just as it comes out at the transom and then run the fuel and steering along the outside of the rigging hose... Does that make more sense?

[macojoe]

I understood it, but if it got a hole at the top were it was in the vac from lets say chafing, then it would leak in the vac hose.

I would not put in hose at all! ;D

[Bygracealone]

Okay, I getcha. I'm the one who misunderstood. I'll have a look around West Marine and Boater's World and see what I can come up with for a boot like you have...

[macojoe]

Here it is, its called a cable boot, $9.00
I went with the larger one.


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/72672/0/0/cable%20boot/All_2/mode+matchallpartial/0/0

[msbhammer]

ByGracealone, sounds like your still working away on your V. Great, but why havent you posted any updated pictures. ;D ;D ;D ;D

[Bygracealone]

Hammer,

You're a good bro to be hounding me like a dog on this project ;D

I posted some updated pics of the motor installed on page three of this thread... the next thing I need to do is get the electrical all figured out. I'm about 70% there. I hope to be finished with electrical on Saturday, then I'll try to start the engine and then I'll install the steering. After that, I'm hoping to take her on her maiden voyage.

Thanks for your continued interest. Your a good motivator and encourager ;)

[msbhammer]

Bygracealone, I must insert my foot or a jelly donut into my mouth ;D
Missed page 3 I guess. That boat looks sweat Man !!!
When drilling through the transom, any wetness found found ? She must be alot lighter now without the omc outdrive. Again, A A+ job Brother. Your now good for a few more days until I start nagging for more p ;D ;D ;D pics. Bro.

[Bygracealone]

No worries, like I said, I appreciate the fact that you keep me on my toes ;)

When drilling through the transom, it was good and dry. The transom is strong and even stronger now that I've filled the holes left from the sea drive and installed the aluminum brackets on the inside... So, I think I'm good on the transom end of things.

[racerx]

hammer, use ur foot. send me the donut. i's HUNGRY!

[msbhammer]

Ok, its Monday Morning, I want a progress report by Bygracealone. DOnut and coffee in hand. Want to read some gossip on what ya did this weekend on her. ;D ;D

[Bygracealone]

Hey Hammer and others,

As you know, I've been working on the wiring. *Since I now have some questions about the wiring and steering, I'm going to start some a new thread in this section and another in the repairs section. *

Steve

[mannydvk11]

Really nice I hope my come out as nice how long is the bracket

[mannydvk11]

Do you feel much difference

[Bygracealone]

Hi Manny,

Sorry for the delay in responding. I haven't been on the forum for too long now!!!

I believe the setback on that Gil bracket was 24 inches.

I can't tell you the difference in performance because I bought the boat with a blown engine with the express purpose of converting it to a bracket.

That said, I think it performed very well with the bracket.

[mannydvk11]

Thanks for the answer I also have one more Question how did you was able to know at what hi you had to put the bracket

[Bygracealone]

Hi Manny,

That was a bit more tricky. I had to place the bracket to where the anti-cavitation plate on the lower unit matched up with the bottom of the boat. Some say it should be maybe 1/2" above the bottom (I can't recall which way I did it)...

Hope that helps.

[mannydvk11]

i am looking at a good deal with a guy around here he has a bracket witch is 28" set back is a hi buoyancy with a platform will the 4 extra inches give me a problem

[Bygracealone]

Manny, I think 28 should be fine, especially with flotation. If I had been given the opportunity for a good deal on a 28 with floatation, I would have jumped on it. What size engine are you planning to hang on it?

[mannydvk11]

i was able to get a 1996 Johnson 115HP 20" shaft for 400$ and bracket with 2 swim platforms for 450$ i think is a good deal

[macojoe]

To place the bracket on your boat you need to see what motor you have, 20" 25" 30" thats the first measurement you need. Now put the bracket at the point on transom were the top of mounting plate is at your engin height.now add 1" for each foot back you are going.

So you say you have a 20" and going back 28" thats comes out to22" and you should be fine.

But I hate to say it but a 20" on a bracket is way to low, its going to get swamped with water every time yo stop and waves are splashing it, min I woud go is a 25" but the best is a 30" on these boats, been there done that. mine was a 25" always wished it was a 30".