New lead

[chesapeake724]

Well, the '93 didn't pan out. I followed up and they must've found a su...errrr, buyer, because it sold.

This boat's been listed a while, but I'm thinking it just hasn't sold because it's up in the mountains.

http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/2/8/33579528.htm

I asked all the critical questions and it sounds like I'd be justified in taking the 2-2.5 hr. drive. As usual, just seein' if you gents had any thoughts.

[macojoe]

Well looks good? And it seems to be a freash water boat for at least part of its life?
What the hell go for a nice weekend ride. look at the changing leafs, and maybe a picnic with the other 1/2, and who knows you maybe will get a boat too.

Good luck!

[Pipe_Dream]

I agree, take a ride and make a day of it and maybe you'll find it's what you want. It sounds like a fair deal if it's like they describe . . .
Just curious, if anyone knows - mine is also an '83, but the transom is different. Why is that?

[chumbucket]

Looks like a good boat and might be worth a drive to look it over.
It is older than an '83 though. it's only got a 20" transom. '83 had a raised transom that used a 25" leg motor.
Any idea on how old and condition of the motor?

[chesapeake724]

Salesperson didn't respond with the exact year on the engine. He said it had about 200 hours, which made me think it's newer than an '83. Just going off the images, I'm thinking early to mid 90's. You guys would know more, but from all the stuff in the gallery, the taller cap does look like the 80's style. But the transom looks like the older style, CB? If the thing was refurb-ed, I guess it's possible they cut the transom to use a 20" motor. Can you tell anything from the limited view into the cockpit and helm areas? I thought the '83 had the passenger chair on the storage box. Looks like that's been taken out.

This '83 looks to be in far better shape than the '83 that's about 15 mins. from my house. That one has a soft deck and cosmetically is "fair". When the ad highlights are basic features of the boat, you know it's not in good shape. That's this one...

http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/7/2/59152572.htm

The yard has to put a lower unit on the Merc 200, which they say is why they're asking well above book. I offered them $2500 when it first came on their lot, and they declined, saying they had to put on a lower unit. I'm seeing if they'll sell it to me cheap without the engine or the engine as is. There's a Merc dealer in Delaware that has a reputation for being top notch rebuilders.

We'll see if the Admiral wants to drag the whole clan up, or I might just make an up and back trip myself. Thanks for the replies as usual.

[Mac_Attack]

Like the others have said its a nice time of the year for a road trip. *Last March my brother in law and my self made a 3 hour trip down to Cleveland to get a look at my V20. *Started the trip and half way there relised we had forgotten the compression tester. *Boat was in real good shape, questioned the Force engine, made him and her an offer contingent on a compression test. *Made the trip again the next weekend and brought her home in a cold March rain. *Good luck! *Bill Mc ;D

[Airslot]

Can't judge year by transom height. My 87' has a 20" transom.

Airslot

[Seakindly]

NEW LEAD *???

Blast from the past. ;D

I remember this ad from my search last summer.

My gut feeling was that this is a 20 + year old boat with a big (yeah 200 is big) motor that has been beat on relentlessly - waterskiing and tubing on this vacation lake. The boat already needed rebuilding (repairs) years ago, and is about shot now. The motor is probably as worn out as a motor can be, from a million and one hole shots. :(

Yeah, it would be swell to get a cherry freshwater boat like Mac did :), but this ain't it. :'(

CPK, sorry for sounding so pessimistic, but that is/was my honest impression of this ad. If you really feel like burning gas for 5 hours, do yourself a favor and have the salesman call you with the boat VIN # and the motor model and serial # BEFORE you make the trip. That way you will at least know for sure what year the stuff is. :-/

[Seakindly]

Oh, and that 20 inch transom ... better stay on the lake. :o

[chesapeake724]

Like I said in my other threads, SK, I see all feedback as having value, whether it's positive or negative. :)

The guy I'm trading emails with said the motor is an '86 and that he checked the HIN and it checked out as an '83. CB wasn't certain, but I trust airslot's response that an '83 can have either.

That brings up a point about 20" transoms. As you can guess, I'll be boating/fishing on the Chesapeake, which is tight chop vs. swells. Should I be concerned about the engine getting swamped, or just shipping water over the lower notch? I have small kids, so if I have to, I'm going to rig some barrier (removable panel of starboard, most likely) to keep the 'crew' onboard and to do double duty as a splash blocker.

[Airslot]

If it's like my transom, I wouldn't worry about it at all. Mine is 25" on the sides and notched down to 20" in the middle. With the motor well I get no water in the boat, at least over the transom. I fish in the Chesapeake about 15 times a year and Ocean fish stripers in the winter in this boat. Glad that I don't have the CC version as I did take one over the bow this year.

Airslot

[Seakindly]

CPK, I have been burned more than I care to admit by " sellers" claiming motors were newer than they were or different such as shaft length etc. Drive 5 hours and get their to find out the truth - no thanks.

Now, I insist they write down the numbers and read them to me over the phone. You would be surprised how often they are mistaken.

That ad is over a year old - ya gotta wonder why it has not sold yet. The remote mountains of PA ... c'mon now.

As for the 20 inch transom ... that would concern me most when drifting in strong currents, like inlets, in a wind against current situation. Maybe with a good well and splashblock. But not for me. I am not that brave.

[macojoe]

Well I agree that a taller transom would be better!!

But if you no what you are doing, and you don't mind a little water then the 20 will work!!

Offer the guy $5000 see what he says??

All boats are a work in progress IMO I have owned my boat 6 years now and I haven't stoped working on it yet!!

I added a 25 gal gas tank were the I/O use to be so now I have 3 tanks totaling 65 gal.

I have removed the air vents on the rear top of transom and made one a gas filler for the new tank and then I did the same with the middle one so I can fill the remote oil tank from out side the boat!!

If this doesn't work out then try to look for a I/O that needs to be repowered, Then convert!! I have made my boat to take a 25" shaft motor, and don't care about water comming over the transom! *;D

Its not as hard as you think to do this! I did it my self, and after 2 heavy use seasons it is as strong as ever!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v131/macojoe/66813c63.jpg

[chesapeake724]

Nice job, MJ.

Yeah, I've had the I/O to bracketed conversion project in my head for some time now. The pipe dream for some time now was to find a Formula F233 and convert it. (Have added the V-20 and the Chris Craft Scorpion/Lancer to possible candidates as well.) Been poking around THT, Classic Mako and Seacraft, and am reading Vaitses book on fiberglass boat repair to learn me sumpin' 'bout it. Your gallery was very helpful, too.

I know what motors cost, but what's the cash outlay for the bigger ticket items of a project like this? The bracket, obviously, say $1500-$2500 from what I gather. What else?

[macojoe]

well first off you need to get the transom fixed. I did this my self and saved a ton of cash!! And it is not hard.

After you pull the motor and out drive you need to make sure the transom is in good shape!
I drilled a few 1/4 inch holes on the inside of the transom to see what the wood looked like. It will be a little crapy near the hole but should get better as you move away.
After that you want to take a saw and cut the inside of the transom square big anough ot get to good wood! There is double 3/4 in the center of the transom, so set the saw to 1 1/2 so you no cut thur the transom.
Now pry that piece of wood out annd clean the fiberglass real good getting all the wood off.
The fiber glass here is like 1/2 inch thick!!
Now set the saw 3/4 and cut the hole 2 inches wider on the top pice of ply only!
Then take a piece of ply cut to the size of the inner hole and coat with resin. Then cut fiberglass cloth 2 inches bigger the the board. Wet the cloth and put in hole covering the hole and then hamer the ply in the hole. Taking the extra cloth and over lap on to the bigger hole on top.
Take 2nd ply cut to fit top hole and do the same as th first and screw it to the first ply.
Now using cloth and resin just keep layering till you have filled hole to meet the oringal fiberglass overlaping to get a good seal.

Now go out side and start filling the hole with glass matting and resin till you meet the out side glass.
I sanded till smooth and thats it. IMO there is no reason to gel coat here as it is going to be inside the bracket, but if you must Marine tex is fine.

Now the transom is all set at a cost of $150 ?? I got most of my glass cloth free from a friend and just had to pay for reasin and ply.

Now get a good bracket. I like my stainless marine bracket with platform. All aluminin and powder coated. Platform like mine is $1500, but there are alot of take ffs around!! I got mine for $400 and there were more for like $500. If you must go new you can get brackets with out platforms for like $700 or so. The nice thing about getting new is you get it for your boat!! So it fits the curve in the transom. Mine is from a 23 Seacraft and I had to make some wedges on the corners to make it fit. You can see in my gallery.

Then I had a friend weld me up a excat same bolt pattern bracket on the inside of the boat, out of 3" x 1/2 inch flat stock. I coated it with 4 coats of ZRC Galvanetic Compound. Has had lots of salt water in the bildge for 2 years now and no rust yet!! Cost was for flat stock only $50

Now you have to get the thing lined up on the boat and mark all the holes. This is the hard part!! ou need to get the holes drilled so that the bracket, boat, and the inside bracket all line up!
Put all the bolts thur and get the nuts and washers just started. Use longer bolts then you need!!
Now get a couple of tubes of 5200 $12 each total $24 and start pumping all the way around the bracket between the bracket and boat. Don't be cheap with the stuff!!
After you get all that on there start tighting all the bolts. The stuff is going to squeeze out all over the place!! Thats ok!! tigten all real good and come back in a couple of hours and retighten again. remove excess!

Your Done!! So let see
$150 fix transom
$24 for 5200
$50 for inside bracket
$60 SS 1/2 bolts
$30 quart ZRC paint
$400 Bracket
$50 miss. for stuff I forgot like brushes and stuff

total $764 if new bracket $1500 = $1864

$1800 1989 175 Yamaha
$450 to get it ready
$75 for me to leanthen the wireharness as it is now at a 28" set back.

Total for me $3089 give or take a few dollars

And its the best thing I have ever done!!

Anything else you want to no?? Just ask!!

[brianct12]

MJ,
I just joined this site ..... * and think it is great. *I have had a 1969 18' Thompson for 20 years now ... *and am finally tired of its "pounding" in LI Sound in anything over a small chop. *I want a better ride ... *and many have suggested the V20. *I am handy with projects and would like to pick up an I/O V20 and do a bracket conversion. *Your first-hand info and suggestions are invaluable - *and make me think I can pull it off. * My questions are more about the resulting performance of the boat. *Will it sit too low in the stern at rest. *Ride to bow high ? *Porpoise ? *Difficult to use in reverse ? *And finally, just how is the V20 in 2-3' chop. *Is it better than average at not pounding ? *Thanx for any help. * Brian *in CT.

ps - Oh ... one other thing. Have you any guess as to what the odds are that an early 80's I/O boat will still have a "good" transom. (Maybe 50% ?) I would think it would be hard to inspect for ... so buying the boat would be a slight gamble on the transom condition. Fixing a bad transom adds to the cost of a conversion - obviously.

[macojoe]

Welcome the board!!

I don't think that the conversion has hurt the boat to much!! I think it makes a wider turn now, and it backs up fine as long as you don't have to turn it to hard.

Has for tthe weight in the back and sitting low in the water, The bracket has a float chamber and I belive it doesn't sit any lower naw then it ever has.

As for a 3 foot chop and the rest, you trim the motor right and it is a champ!! But that said if this is the norm for you (chop) trim tabs will be a great help also.

As for getting a 80's with a good?bad transom, your right 50%
Just make sure you ck it out good!! first. Mine is a 1975 ant the transom is still good so far!! But there was some rot right around the hole were the outdrive went thur. But you have to cut some away any how to make the patch.
Being that mine had some rot at the hole I am sure there was moist wood else were but it was still coming out like prety clean wood when I was drilling the holes to mount the bracket.
Also I am not sure about newer stuff but the glass on the out side skin is 1/2 inch thick!! The inside is 1/4 so there is alot of glass there!

Any way it old a bit beat up but its payed for and takes the water pretty good! And that makes me happy!!

[Blue_Runner]

MJ, everything I own is old and beat up! A brand new boat just wouldn't fit my style...

[bigshrimpin]

Chesapeake - here's a real nice one.

http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/6/8/69486168.htm

[chesapeake724]

Thanks, BS, I've seen that ad as I've been checking boattrader, yachtworld, etc. like a lunatic. ;) I think that might be a stretch for the budget. Maybe if it was closer...

I think it's older hulls for me to start. Besides, the more I clean up my old Trophy to make her more saleable, the more I see my first Steplift as being a boat that needs some TLC. The refurb bug has bitten another victim. Over a couple years she'd be a work in progress to clean and upgrade and save up for the V21 or bracketed outboard project. ;D

[bigshrimpin]

All Right Chesapeake . . . . this is much better and it's in Pennsyl-tucky too. Looks like a really clean boat.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=63725&item=2497688 804&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

This might be the one!!!!!

[chesapeake724]

I wasn't going to jinx it by posting, but I saw this this morning also. I wonder why they don't fix it and get more $. Flywheels aren't that expensive, are they? Anyway, I sent some questions in to the seller.

Auction ends in 3 days, so we'll see if I 'join the club'.

[chesapeake724]

I think this boat wants to be mine.

The location is listed in the ad as being 60mi. away. But I did some sleuthing and it's being consigned by a dealer I recognized. The schweet surprise is that it's actually at their lot, which is only 25 mins. away. I'm going to look at it Friday night. If the hull is as good as it looks, she will be mine. Mine! Mu-ahahahahahaha!! (in my best mad scientist laugh).

[chumbucket]

I like the sounds of this one. I think you two were ment to be together. ;) ;D

[macojoe]

$2840 Deal I will be right down!! ;D I hope it works for ya!!

[Crusher]

Chesapeake 724, I'll be in Quakertown late Fri afternoon early evening about 5 min. from that dealer. What time are you going? I bought my used Steplift from them 4 years ago. Where do you live, I live in Doylestown. Good Luck Crusher

[chesapeake724]

Crusher,

I live in West Chester and work in Collegeville. I'm trying to get out of work early to make it to the dealer by 3:30, 4:00 at the latest. I got something to get back home for and also want to try and beat some of the traffic. Highway Marine said they were selling it 'locally' as well as eBay, so if the boat checks out I'll try and stake my claim with a deposit. I won't sleep until Sunday if I have to watch the auction clock and bid at the last possible second. With the eBay ad, it's nice to know how low they'll go. Is it safe to assume that since you didn'tadvise me to run like hell away from the dealer that your experience with them was OK?

If I catch you, great. But I appreciate the offer nonetheless. :)

Will

[Seakindly]

I wonder why a "rebuilt" motor, with only 20 hours on it, would need a new flywheel? ???

But for 2840, if the hull is in decent shape, you could repower with a new carbed 150 2 stroke and use the rebuild for a mooring anchor. ;D

Good luck, CPK! :)

[bigshrimpin]

Just curious . . . why does any engine need a new flywheel?
(Mashed teeth from the starter? or is it a balance issue? )

And what are the symptoms of a broken flywheel?

[chumbucket]

Mj and I were talking about this today and my first guess was also the mashed teeth from a starter related problem.
The flywheel was probably off the original powerhead(if new PH) or the starter problem developed after the rebuild. Still a good deal.

[bigshrimpin]

Looks like the dealer has taken it off ebay. Maybe we'll see some pics from chesapeake soon? ;D

[chesapeake724]

One step closer, gents. I put some 'good faith' money down and offered the eBay starting price. Since there were no bids, the owner accepted, and they pulled the ad.

The boat belongs to one of the yardworkers at a dealer, and the boss is just helping him sell it. I wish I saved the pics before they changed it, but they're pretty representative for the most part. Hull's sound. There's no evidence of repairs and all 'love taps' of the mallet reported solidly. Topsides could use some restoring. The seller's dad is handy w/ woodworking, so he actually remade the rod box inserts out of teak. It's a little dark for my taste, but it looks nice. Deck has some soft spots, but none that need immediate attention. The panel above the gas tank needs replacing sooner, but the plus side is that I can get in to see the gas tanks, stringers, etc. Seller says there aren't any problems with that stuff. (I know, a seller's supposed to say that, but this guy seems on the level. He works on boats, he doesn't sell 'em. Definitely did not get the used-car-salesman vibe.) The compartments at the transom had the liners taken out, so you can see into the bilge pretty well. Looks pretty clean. Cabin is clean, windshield frame is fine, and hatch hardware is good. Electronics will have to be upgraded, but are serviceable.

Story on the motor is that is was rebuilt 20 hrs. ago, but the flywheel magnets need replacing. As far as I know, the flywheel itself is fine, and the owner even offered me the part. Part of the r&r was to replace the stator, and when the magnets went bad, the seller wasn't keen on having them 'glued back on' after dumping a load of cash already. Steering and trim & tilt work. VRO is disconnected and seller has been premixing. Motor looks to be in as good a condition as reported. For the price of the whole rig, I can't expect too much out of the engine, but I'm thinking I can spend less than $1k to get it up and running and will run it until it dies.

That's about it. She needs work, for sure, but I think she's worthy of a makeover. The Admiral was much happier hearing the price than when I was courting that '93 for $9800. I'll probably pick it up and close the deal late next week and will be sure to post pics as soon as I get her to her new home. ;D

[Seacrets]

Congratulations. Welcome to the club.

[bigshrimpin]

congrats chesapeake!!! That's a great deal . . . I don't think you could have done much better. Recoreing the fuel hatch and fixing small soft spots in the deck isn't too difficult. Just take care of them sooner rather than later.

I'll send you some links of you plan on doing this yourself.

http://www.casdvm.com/photos/Hatch%20work/images/DSCN2992.jpg

ALso if you like me to create an album for you in the gallery, just give me a shout.

[macojoe]

And that is a picture of what?? BS

Good deal!! Wish you lots of luck!!!

Just remember a boat is always a restoration in progress!! I tnever ends!! I figure it takes me 2 to 3 seasons to get it set up the way I like it. I have had 4 boats and this is always the case!!
Just don't start drilling holes to mount stuff that you are not sure of. You will move things around and have holes all over!! I no I did it!

[chumbucket]

Ya done good Chesepeake. I agree that for the asking price, I don't think you could have done much better.
Good luck.

[bigshrimpin]

MJ - It's picture of the inside a seacraft hatch where the bottom skin and rotten core have been removed. Working from the bottom of the hatch allows you to keep the original gelcoat non skid surface (top skin) and recore the hatch.

[Seakindly]

Congratulations, CPK!

Since you seem to genuinely appreciate alternate viewpoints, here is mine:

1) Keep your eye on the prize - the v20.
That is what the deal was about for you - right.
Hopefully, the HULL is in as good shape as you perceiv eit to be. You need to focus very carefully on the transom and the stringers - especially where they meet the transom. Now that this is your boat, don't be afraid to poke around. Drilling a small test hole into the transom and stringers from inside the hull is no big deal. Get a real good idea of what you have - before you start investing your resources in repairs and upgrades of lower priority. At the risk of sounding negative, the more you look - the more problems you will find. But don't despair, because a 1987 hull is likely to just be beginning to show problems. If you want this boat for yourself and for the long haul - then you want to find problems NOW so that you can nip them in the bud and prevent them from becoming bigger problems.

2) The motor.

It is too big for your v20. It will cause and accelerate any hull problems. It will burn way more gas and oil then you want to buy. Fix the flywheel and get it running as cheaply as you can. But do it right. You have all winter to do this. You can probably pick up a used flywheel cheap if you take your time and look around. Winter is the best time in the northeast to find a mechanic to do the work if you are not doing it yourself. Hopefully, you have or can get documentation on the rebuild. That will help you on your resale price. With luck, you will get the lions' share of your initial outlay back. Repower with the best carbed 150 2 stroke your budget will allow, AFTER your are satisfied with your hull.

3) THE TRAILER

Looks too small. If you are gonna be any kind of a trailer boater - sell it and buy one of sufficient GVWR for a fully loaded v20.

4) Electronics
Upgrade as you see fit when 1,2,3 are done.

5) kEEP POSTING :)

[Mac_Attack]

Con grats CPK724. Now that you have your V20, just like the others have said, be like the old bull and walk down the hill and do it right! Please post pictures I like to see how others do their projects. Bill Mc ;D

[bigshrimpin]

Seakindly is giving you some good advice, but I have a feeling like all of us you're on a bit of a budget. I just have a few comments to add here.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
235 is not too big, but it's thirsty:
----------------------------------------------------------------------
85 was the year that OMC switched over to rating the HP at the prop shaft instead of the powerhead. It's also the last year that OMC produced the 235. From what I understand the the 235 actually puts out less than 200hp (at the prop) and at 396lbs it's lighter than any 2 stroke v6 on the market. I would expect around 2gph @ cruise with that engine (might be more).

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

The trailer looks like the original load-rite roller single axel trailers that was commonly package with the v20 in the late 80's. The rating should be around 3600-3700lbs. If I'm correct then this will work fine. However , If you have a small tow vehicle or are planning on trailering distances . . . then a dual axel trailer with brakes will give you much better performance.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

[chumbucket]

They don't call them two-thirsty-fives for nothing. :-/

[chesapeake724]

Should be a fun trip, and I'll be sure to document the work along the way.

The trailer is a 5000# single-axle that the seller's boss sold to him a couple years ago. Not sure of the make or year. We'll see at title transfer. After having owned both, I think down the road I'll be upgrading to a tandem whenever I come across a good deal. I will be mostly trailering, and agree that tandems offer more peace of mind and are worth the little expense in the maneuverability department.

BS's explanation might, errr...explain things. The cowling says 175hp. The seller said that 'we found out it was a 235, not a 175'. Maybe in OMC's rating transition, a 'newer' cowling was put on. Then, when it came to replacing parts, maybe during the 'rebuild', the model came up as the '235hp' model. I had an '88 Johnson 200 on the Grady. So when I saw this engine, I thought to myself that this block isn't as big as the 200's was. Methinks it's a 175, in current terms. We'll see what the verdict is, when I bring it in to get the flywheel fixed.

Next weekend is looking busier and busier, so I'll either take off work and pick her up earlier or will push it off until the beginning of next week.

[Seacrets]

BS are you sure they rated at the prop in 1985? I had a 185 Evinrude on my first V20 (1985) and it was rated at the powerhead. Either way, I agree with you, gas is alot cheaper than an engine update. The 235 hp might drink gas, however they were hard to destroy. Also, if the trailer is sound, use it. You'll find it's alot easier than a tandem at the ramp.

[macojoe]

I agree with SK, fix up the motor and sell it!! 150 to 175 is all you will ever need!!

As far as the trailer, I had a single axle that was a 1980 that I got with the boat. I used it for 6 years before i got my new tandam and I could have gone a little longer!!

IMO, you should survey the boat and work on the important stuff first!! the rest will come with time.

[Crusher]

Chesapeak 724, Didn't make it up there Fri night. I had the Hyway Marine check out my engine when I purchased my boat and was not happy with the information they gave me. Was expecting a written report with compression test for the price, what I got was verbale saying engine checked out fine compression was good? Make sure all request are writen. I did't really care as I bought at a realy good price and had heard engine run. As for the engine use it for now shortly the new mid range E-TEC motors will be available and there will be a lot of good tradins (used) Johnson-Evinrude motors. Crusher

[Seakindly]

I say sell the thirsty beast ASAP, because the only reason it may have a decent resale value is because it is only 20 hours on the rebuild. Use it for a year or two and it will sell for chump change, if it is still sellable. Sell it ASAP and you get the v20 for a very minimal investment considering that the trailer and functional electronics have some value also. That way, as your hull restoration progresses you will not be so depressed as those costs ALWAYS turn out to be more than expected. When you are done with the hull you will know what is left in your budget for the right sized engine (150 hp). That 235 is not gonna do your hull any good either. That 1987 hull already has problems evident to you on your first inspection. It is a good bet it has more and the guy from the boatyard knows this, which is why he is willing to take 2840 for the whole package. Crusher picked up his v20 of similar vintage in excellent condition - it had a 115 on it. Does that tell you something? It is probably a good deal for you, since you are motivated, but you should be realistic in your expectations. BTW, Seacrets, I know lots of guys that killed those motors, and their boats too, although they had some rather compelling reasons to do so :-X

CPK, whatever you do, I wish you sucess. :)

[chesapeake724]

Interesting, MJ. You almost always associate a boat survey with being part of the pre-sale process, either on the seller's or buyer's part. It didn't occur to me to use a survey to find out all about a boat you already own to see what needs fixing. That's some good advice.

Crusher,
No problem. This deal isn't really Highway Marine's transaction. The seller happens to work there and HM's owner's girlfiend put it up on eBay as a favor. There's not really any dealer support prior to or after the sale. It's just sitting in their lot. Which is fine. At this price, I'm not expecting any service to go with it. Sorry you didn't really have a good experience with them. I've heard something similar to that before. I love it when they say a boat "passes the compression test". What do they think, we're stupid? A V-6 might have 120psi in five cylinders and 60psi in a toasted one and it's going to technically have "compression". I'm with you. Give me the numbers.

[Seakindly]

CPK - SPEAKING OF NUMBERS - yOU CANT TELL A MOTOR BY IT'S COVER.

Take the cover off and ther should be a round pressed in button with the model # and serial # on the top of the powerhead. These numbers should match those on a plate on the transom bracket. The model number will tell you exactly what it is - yr shaft lenth hp etc. Post it if you want to know what all the letters and numbers stand for.

Gotta go.

[Seacrets]

SK Poor maintenance.