Trouble in Paradise

[Blue_Runner]

Howdy folks. I've been away for a while. I've been busy tearing up my boat ;D

I have 2 problems now::

1) My o/b decided it didn't want to start by the key anymore. BUT, it really liked it when I took the positive and jumped over the solenoid directly to the starter, and started right up. Another symptom of this problem is that the tilt/trim isn't getting juice either. I think it could be one of 3 things. Bad solenoid (but would this cause the tilt/trim to not work?), bad control key switch, or bad engine wiring harness?? Any ideas? My first thought is to replace the $30 solenoid.

2) As I've said before, my transom was replaced by the p/o about 2 years ago. I don't know who he got to do it, but apparently they cut the "skin" off the outside (back) of the boat to do the work, then glassed the skin back on after installing new wood. The problem is, there is a small gap (maybe 1/2" at most) between the outer skin and the new wood. The weight of the motor flexed the outer skin at the bottom of the engine mount to the point that I now have a 4" crack along the "cut line" where the skin was originally cut. Now, my question for you is this: Marinetex or West System? Or pull motor and have a professional look at it????

Thank you,
BR

[reelapeelin]

Not knowing how to use fiberglass myself, It would be the fiberglass-man for me...sounds like w/ a gap that size it needs some professional help... ;) 8)...think you are past Marinetex, etc...

BR...can you see into the gap...!/2" is a pretty big opening... :o ;)

[Blue_Runner]

You can't really see into it. But, when you tap around there are some hollow sounds in spots. I do know for a fact the wood in the transom is new due to the good looking wood shavings that came out when I hung my motor. The transom is very strong internally - there is no flex - its just this problem with stress being put on the skin due to the gap between new wood and fiberglass. A real bummer I tell ya. Calgon, take me away!!

[reelapeelin]

BR...I'd let a PRO lookat it...fix might be injectable rather than havin' to remove to replace...bottom line is, if there is open space inside a transom, water WILL find it's way in...especially if motor is cracking outter shell... :P ;)

Good luck w/ it either way... ;D

[Blue_Runner]

Injectable (you mean like my old lady?) - readin my mind dude. I've been tossin that thought around in my head ;D

[phester]

how about that seacast material? I myself have never used it but it may be an easy and effective repair.

[reelapeelin]

Seacast is what I was thinkin', but crack under motor could still be problem even w/ dose of Seacast...I know if it was mine, I'd have to find somebody that KNOWS... ;) :D

[phester]

it is a critical repair, certianly you dont want to be on the learning curve with that one

[Franco]

I concur with reelapeelin and phester, It's not worth the potential damage to do it halfway.
On your electrial repair - take a voltmeter and chek the output coming from the ignition switch and work your back

[knightfisher]

I did my transom with seacast and the only way you would be able to use it is to cut the top of the transom off and dig all the wood out with a chain saw and long drill bits. i don't think you could inject sea cast it is way to thick. If I had to do it all over again I would use the seacast. it is lighter and stronger than wood. Go to www.transomrepair.com and check it out. and as for the crack a little glassing before you pour will take care of that. it cost me right at $380.00 to do my transome with no more worries about rot.

[knightfisher]

As for the electrical did you check the fuse on the motor my mercury did that and all it was a 20 amp fuse.

[bigshrimpin]

Blue - Here's a link to a properly done transom rebuild through the rear skin.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/hammers20CCpage2.htm

Sounds like theres some large air pockets trapped under the outside skin of your transom. If the transom is solid and the wood is dry, then drill some holes into the skin in the "hollow areas" air pockets and inject epoxy resin to fill the voids. as for the crack . . . just grind it out and use a fairing compound to fill in the area.

[reelapeelin]

Thanks, BS...I knew there was something to shoot in there...will fairing restore the structural strenghth?... ???

[Blue_Runner]

First, let me say - I love ya'll.

Knightfisher - I can't believe I didn't think of checking that fuse first!! I hope that's what it is.

Secondly - BS, the fairing compound you mention, is that the same as Marinetex or is it something else? Also, where can I get the epoxy resin, and what brand? I've only had experience with Marinetex thus far (and lot's of it ;D). One last thing - I suppose I would use an expoxy syringe to inject with, correct?

Thanks guys for the quick help. With fishing season at hand this is no time to mess around!

Thanks,
BR

[fillet1]

Blue Runner

BigShrimpin has it right.

The epoxy you should use is west systems. I believe you can make a fairing compund out of it also with the proper additives.

[bigshrimpin]

Reel - If Blue has been running the boat for 2 years and the transom wood is dry and the transom doesn't flex . . . I'd have to conclude that the transom crack is just cosmetic and probably a result of the air pockets (voids). Grinding out a narrow 4inch crack and filling it won't effect the structural integrity of the transom.

Epoxy for injecting into the voids => Systems Three 2:1 or west systems will work well. West marine or any other fiberglass supply store will should carry these (both website have a list of resellers). Syringes are available at west marine or pet supply places.

Epoxy fairing compound . . . . Systems Three "Quick Fair".
Goes on like butter.


BR - Just for piece of mind . . . I'd recommend drilling a few holes into the questionable area. If you're going to patch it anyway you can always fill those holes.

Grind out with 50 or 80 grit disc, clean with acetone, quick fair, block sand, acetone, prime and paint.

[Blue_Runner]

Thanks BS. First things first, the motor has to be pulled.

Will get it pulled most likely tonight. Thanks for the info.

Do you think one layer of quik fair is going to do it? Or should I do 2 thin layers with cleaning and sanding in between??

[Blue_Runner]

Franco, by the way, you were right about the fuse! Blown sure enough. I've got to pick up a couple of those.

[knightfisher]

Ok Blue let's give credit where it's due i told you about the fuse ;D

[Jester]

If you decide you want to try this, here's a good company I deal with. They have great prices (especially compared to West Marine and Boater's World kind of chains). They carry EVERYTHING too.... tools, glass, even kevlar, for boats, surfboard, and windsurfer building. I didn't buy my resins from them to avoid the Haz Materials shipping charges, but I bought everything else from them including a GOOD RESPIRATOR.... for less than half what Boater's World wanted for it.

http://fiberglasssupply.com/

What materials you ad to the epoxy to make the compound sort of depends on the size of the crack and a few other things. I got a couple books from the library and the used books section of Amazon.com. The main thing to remember is SMALL BATCHES of resin, and pray for some good weather for the cure.

Good luck.

[Blue_Runner]

:oMy bad Knightfisher! :o

Thank you KNIGHTFISHER!

I haven't got a replacement fuse yet, but I took one from my 70hp johnson. It blew it again within a matter of seconds. Maybe the 140 uses a bigger fuse?? I hope so, cause no telling what's causing it to blow fuses??

[macojoe]

Check the fuse you took out to see what size it was?? Then if it blows again look at the wires, I bet you will have a pinched wire some where?