Foredeck Teak Strips

[fillet1]

I finally have gotten to A/B the teak on the fordeck, and I now realize that the $#%$#% bolts holding it down are loose, and water seeps into the cabin, and I'm sure, soaks the plywood in the fordeck. Its a two man job to tighten em up. Does anybody have a bead of caulk around the entire strip to keep water from getting underneath? Hows it work?

[macojoe]

Me too!! I am changing mine next week. I am using 3/4 Starboard and they will have a full coat of 5200 under it to A, Stop the water, B. To keep the dirt, leafs and crap that gets under them.

I will not have any wood at all above deck at the end of this season!!

[fillet1]

MJ-

I guess you will have to buy a whole sheet of starboard to get the length you need? If i could buy pre-cut strips I would do it.

You will have to put those drain holes in the strips near the windshield?

[macojoe]

I bought 2 hole sheets!! ;D one 3/4 and one 3/8 I have pleanty!!
yea may need a hole or two?? we will see.

[cliffpaul2]

I just redid mine and reinstalled them with a bead of 3M marine grade "underwater" caulk along the length of each board. The problem I have now is that the sliding hatch lid is glued down on one side because some of the caulk was pressed out the inside. I can't get it loose. I even tried lifting the teak, but it's cemented to the boat. Any ideas on how to get it up without cracking the wood or the fiberglass? ???

[macojoe]

Run a razor along the wood and cover then lift up on the lose side and try to do the same on the inside, That should relese it anough to get it off.

when pulling up on it try to lift from back to front not side to side!!

I guess you learned a lesson!! wait till all is dry before putting it back toghter!!

They also sell a relese for 5200 that will losen the calking after curing. But then you might have to redo the teak sealant alos??

[JohnD]

MJ and all,

The 5200, is the next best thing to epoxy for bedding, but if I don't miss my guess 5200 isn't UV resistant.

So make sure you wipe off any extra and then run a bead of 4200 (I think, its the one which states UV resistant caulk) or any other UV resistant caulk.

I used some boat-life caulk on my floor 2 years ago and it's yellowed big time. I didn't make sure it was UV resistant. No big deal since I had to have the floor out for another project anyway.

br,
John

[reelapeelin]

CP2...if in the process of gettin' that loose you break the slides that are attached to the hatch, don''t fret...I remade mine from the C-channel used for trimming vinyl-sideing on houses...cut away one side of the C and lip on other side, leaves an "L" shape...reattach one side of the L back to the lid and you're good to go...did mine 2-3 yrs ago...trouble-free since... ;D...

[fillet1]

MJ-

Are you cutting the strips on a table saw? Wanna make me a set for a handsome fee?? ;D ;D ;D ;D

[macojoe]

That might be arranged??

Yes I am going to run them thur a table saw!!

Do you just want me to cut you the strips and you do the finish work?
Or do you want me to do them all the way??

I have taken mine off but I have not measured them yet. And I do not have the holes in mine for the water, But I am going to make some.
I guess they came out with the holes in the newer models. Mine is 1975

Let me no what they are worth to you + shipping.

[Fitz]

Fillet1:

When I reinstalled my foredeck strips after refinishing, I just ran thin beads of silicone caulk on the bottoms, not around the sides. I've never had any drips.

5200 and 4200 are primarily used where extremely strong adhesive properties are needed. That type of adhesion can create problems for items that will eventually have to be removed for refinishing or replacement. I recommend avoiding those products unless you need the adhesion. Also, UV resistance doesn't matter for caulk that's not exposed to the sun.

Fitz

[fillet1]

Thanks Fitz.

[macojoe]

Yes and Starboard does expand and contract so it will be better to just do the screws when installing.

[fillet1]

MJ-

I'm going to pop mine off this weekend (maybe tonight) and see what i'm going to do. Thanks for the offer.

[LESTERUS]

MACOJOE:

[LESTERUS]

MACOJOE:

I KNOW THAT I'M LATE IN THIS DICUSSION, BUT I'M INTERESTED TO KNOW HOW THESE STRIPS CAME OUT SINCE IS THE ONLY TEAK I HAVEN'T REPLACED BECAUSE
I'M AFRAID THEY ARE NOT GOING TO LOOK LIKE THE ORIG. TEAK SHAPE, DID YOU SHAPED THE STARBOARD LIKE THE ORIGINAL STRIPS?

DID YOU MAKE THEM FOR ANYBODY ELSE? HOW MUCH WOULD YOU CHARGE?

LESTERUS

LESTERUS.

[Stinky_Hooker]

If anyone need those teak strips I got mine form my 20. Just let me know.

I also have the teak that goes around the cabin entry and the teak that holds the carpet against the cuddy walls.

[LESTERUS]

STINKY:
MINE ARE IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE, BUT I WANT TO REPLACE THEM WITH STARBOARD, BUT IN WANT THEM TO LOOK ORIGINAL SHAPE.

THANKS FOR THE OFFER, ANY IDEAS?

LESTERUS

[Stinky_Hooker]

I reckon it could be done with a tablesaw and alot of figuring...good luck, itll be a job to get right. :-/

[macojoe]

Ok I just saw this.

Yes they are made of 3/4 starboard and they are easy cut on a table saw.
Then you take a router and cut a grove in the bottom and round the edges.

I then took some thin 1/8 Alum angle (get at any hardware store) and riveted it to the edges of the sliding hatch.

It goes under the new strips and slides in the grove you routered in the bottom.

Works great and looks good also!

I don't see that I have a finished pic?? But here are some for a look.

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/Picture_123_copy.sized.jpg

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/Picture_129.sized.jpg

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/Picture_190.sized.jpg

http://syncboard.com/albums/Boat-Tackle-Box/Picture_192.sized.jpg