Beginning my 1987 Fisherman 20 Restoration

[Myfathersson]

What a wealth of information on this site! I purchased a 1987 Fisherman 20 last weekend from a young lady who was granted the boat in her divorce. According to the HIN search she started her life in Florida, then moved thru Georgia and South Carolina before landing in Indiana where I found her and dragged her back to Kentucky. I've started digging into her to assess what all I need to do.

The trailer is woefully under sized and in terrible shape but it survived the 20 mile trek from Indiana to Louisville without incident and will serve to jockey her around while I focus on the more important aspects. I'll replace with a tandem axle bunk when she's closer to being seaworthy as I plan to trailer her up to the Lake Erie Islands to visit family on a fairly regular basis.

The 1989 Yamaha 200ETXF doesn't run and best info I have is that it hasn't since 2017 or earlier. So far I've discovered it has three broken head bolts on the starboard bank that I'm fairly certain I have the tools and ingenuity to remove and repair. The #3 cylinder has some aluminum deposits so I'm also rather confident the rings went and that's what prompted a PO to attempt to pull the head. I think the cylinder can clean up but I haven't mic'd it yet. The port side head came off cleanly with the assistance of a little carefully applied heat and that bank looks in great condition, I just need to separate that water jacket so I can attempt to replace those zincs and descale the passages. There wasn't a trace of carbon on that head. After that I'll investigate why the #3 cylinder's ring took a :cen: I've got a realistic idea of how much effort and cash I'm willing to sink into this engine before I part it out and look for a solid used replacement in the 150-175hp range. This will be my first time working on a two stroke that doesn't cut weeds so it should be interesting, but it is well within my comfort zone, I've got a small machine shop in my basement so must anything short of boring a cylinder myself is at least plausible.

The transom is surprisingly solid. I can't flex it one bit by tilting the motor and bouncing on it, and the couple abandoned screw holes in the transom I've explored don't show any signs of mush. The stringers and the floor haven't fared as well. The open tops along side the coffin...my screwdriver just dove right on thru. I knew the floor was bad when I got her, the stringers were a minor surprise, though by no means unexpected. My plan is to build a couple wood gantries, hoist off the outboard to continue evaluating and then I can pull the cap to get full access to remove the tank and all the foam, replace the stringers and bulkheads and recap them with glass (I've had more experience laying up epoxy than polyester but I haven't decided which I'll use for this project yet.)

The gel coat on the hull below the seam shows a little oxidation that I think will rub out nicely, and all the OE graphics that remain will be fully removed and I'll probably upgrade from the OE rope rub rail. The forward portion under the flare is still shiny and quite reflective, so hopefully I can bring the rest of the hull up to a similar level of lustre. The cap will require painting though. The fish locker and live well lids both appear to have been painted at some point and of course every bit of non-stainless hardware needs to be replaced, along with a nice new leaning post and a T-Top.

I don't expect this will be a speedy project, I'm gonna do it as right as I can and I really enjoy long complex projects. So wish me luck! Here's a little introductory boat porn:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vxpV15iaEBpWRsKyadFZt2lrHYGMm4I6-Cr64p85qYS87R2R-SCpIZnEWIQfQlF3skc1T4RS8SpzBPIXJvyKU8UifVjfUgABbfV MfWWBU82zT2Xbiu6juSOGM7a_gPtM-hUcTKgkJ64K8YUi1carR2i0ahAV6xmbolCfcrjA55Ib4a5ctp9 8fSppx0aIXCo2OBnumBZdYD0AlmtFFYX1ReMBg5RbgMmNF4bjI lyfmidbTiMXP66g5MI4bgVr7DVoQn7AGSiOV5omFxV-K2FuzdtvoQ4Iw3X3K9aBnrCVM2SIaMeugXNQ6UlAM4i3TfyxwR IbR4wECPOt_1wG4zllHpf5ogN_T57rtV2rHFcOmjkLH8V3rJXM iO1UQbxwgTRWaznLhV8i7ie2DU37j4cSIdPInkqDfRUwXH6i-qHLmYy2MWItKPk9VotnR6ZdP4MaxDMTCrgMuqhOUK9GL4_mepi lQT5OvQAvvkYv0AUkvF2Vuyyqi8yc1twtEgUN8pZF0nPjHtPVx LsEN7MuZsCSC9-SocbHjMdhuLEdVc5dQTH6_c3zxmTl6tGICLKYff10IZIzSRyUz WjF-YuzqHUj5T_HsIlSxpZq=w400-h300-p-k-nu

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0RW-9c47z17TA1dAXHmnV7nhbtPELqxYeCpcUxaoeYRuOOLlWjN9hY nnVpEe_fjWZU9yRkF1rLDeswJbirvLSgxuwm8FEE1YAsVj5W7V 2gE0SPA0egpuU7Vtu_Pb_u-Hy1fvnmucqsL1BfsIwODVBRF8UKo3iv2OXPNxxE2znqNJzIPzb ruzp3q6HwWqQwBrt3jlfCLgymzrewphnv1HdvlzDCILz6_9fS4 SV4UK2n6a4k1f7QfZS0ej0iGKIPKuywQarwrIf9qpfnoNHeeuq 9TjqEJNXX2d637NpEWSf9NerJdu54qIXpwndugsaVA_UIfc33w wRoclmB169DbmdIEDdY4PIMF9TFRp6ZXxPnyZToEwiZCb4jPea k5eO8H2U8tb_7tqiUdVbURQV1cPrfZsbtTIaaTplazhl-Nfvh-xvKgM48vHmLr9BCo1h2xujrzc1NEVtegzgyzux5VjHfyECSwsa PhVHx9wDIfDu5sq3-wpumUC4SbcIj6ub3qKLYkbUB6e1--PbBEKOtIXV02v7KTONkrr39HhZ9gMGiK2P0keCaWmkY16-22h_Tl7jgdZAoznc8bHu-P_Wp1ztCoHMMthVEH9=w400-h300-p-k-nu

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ZPP6LxavWXIt90N19Ra4oYroydwBtnqXl0KCXLAJFSdwkbHZqj WdFQnCRnmHcwzAwpHLDxF8a2DCxc9TgmgjRHBw9bcN1NDWkfUc X-nk7Mu6pOoYqvJWvO6zQyUP1S8_Afp-vBDhTylwYH523STOyXvSYDKobTYDjm5CpCrzHO_VLRDV0DJlwI mkWso3nIXUZNDchcsST3uEqzlMlaGDei5HMk1Qv1kS0clzdtzB-isw_q8qg_SfhlSPFCKE6EWb2KTeLUwGg3P3_HfWj-cBHhlrIGG9SR8rTkkB0NEHnc9bUCzgKf6xs5xO-5uioNpbdEIPZYUJWkpEbNIGv_xeYUCtWZGzC9xrDfZXU9Wo15I fttfvc2BxkeHKXRqPxS0VWRnxyU1nfRPt9gmH6i97wn1O-bmVD2oQaNAqDJPp3h5Jxj1cfKAptjLGxdKVnyTXd2aGIqUhxIh X0EKckPqEBC5yhWW4BWZec8scy0K7zfwB2C3GL44bXh-67MWazw2Jcbz6y_9LgkU8GuUk7PqLHV-pcZzPXMxu_oEOsKGA5rCFj8Arn31Mvu1OlC7hQ1sBED0Nf1IQF eWw1e2R6VgyobujXpVw2xVr=w400-h300-p-k-nu

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lc4dresbWk2tpMBeFptUWop71OmvlMuw02m0wOr9DvDQZu2_wv XdS7DjHKoB0mn7Rab_bXiBOVUlT-V9szAFRNv5oYZA76Q7zE7Ul2U68NaxCUjJK18NsIXQIIsT-s_QU9FuHdj3akM1iuSwrYAapwdK5WRlp3YcegpEmJhsNS5Ptli dZYxYkV5LeJuVzC38jilnbVwwXxKQMyvF-mG7Spku9DQ3iJ9rKZZGEu5TpKktbLUGVRKmnRmlWVxesg6S92U yoPXe9sMuqoO14iAF4qos8PqOOz2gBEhRk9UJ-GHSdXxUktewGuPMvhB1GAZ9Lo5fvlrvTxqphZD89xaJlYjXYeY MBaALP2CQj12jKC4wm9_SHnDzgBlyzqxrafSjBwqEdAsXW8-8tC_WiPL5wTQndNbrZyUYz2N8ahrOXVTURyOTrqTy5VhOvEAeF 29xAxNy0BvD-FN8z8o0XqR6Mb9L4E2A5k35dpvHveeR4iHrT3ShRpErSkzt3fj mRY4eQYTTKJ8jto9lp2wayfBRHADdwPF7-quKlu2kS0iC9YhDGEIBaQ18eSCtZfeQXLv9y_Af4V8Wv6sxonF nmgHGV1reloTagari=w400-h300-p-k-nu

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ln-kpE7I017PB_IKczRbgO27_cqtnVAohGN8tMXsRR6SNoMsaRvE6 Hhtn5XpDSugaKoHFrFReCiEa_JpLjkMSZA1zH_dny4dITYBlu4 m_SThOUINdIsJO5_vDiAIma-zhmKauJmfWmccSKd0wVlu1b8iGCgg7MiNxqxaXrl5gY-izoYQW3xyYL9bmt_YQkLrJyJ2nGjWyHTK3OUS_e1AHGUe-DJH9UpHZsnWnUbteNB79XiI_NSnemR4ltNQa1pVuPXDDuf6LNG xDzoL7x9V1n8KXeZRRjMGok8NbKbfLkIY4bygE5G-rKT2rz9HleYlxoPccsLrq8ePBbwreh-yY8agBi4OOwp5_eLghyqgl_PI4Ryw5cjXA6w_tZU3Xko2JjQoq A45F47JuDuNckiIKd8kUcU353GLHKZmO3jyCj18D00v2A6wupx XGnHpFpRTJ4jtSgPdVOO-iCRbANvkQu6GvsxdEGmkSTAUkbhYYvxCOnnM_gobphVskGE8w5 PZmW-iOOcA0dxhkWRIJXAamgZzS4LhiWHHxj5XBvwUPoBogCOhJ0fJx FwqdtJ8Z-37V6RPkY62QKIFHPMi6YUX4EH3TWLJ0jvD=w400-h300-p-k-nu

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ldCVDXHlMy2-F-XUod0CrU5D1Ini_za0XVky2IE-02fAtTuzwJc2rSSymaFGLlx_kkoO-NPeW9vxU8Vuo1ACs7mAz5fXLdcHVpR22hMxzK4YcQg_SF9FmSq Ncb-v8vEHXUXjIRrSPg9IJTaTCh3mdaNaf2s6B_hzzkVDkzzkS0Uuk rm8n6SeiCQKTxunGktjZ9Sda-tqSDBOkg050wzHm41rWx00Uxt-YPUnBXFTbJlyhX4feTS2yeQGg3k5xLW5xVf0n_pL0GbEatZTj6 NXBlUk9kpikqKc_4sysNlobLiKygm8_Vhrb8psYagRyW-4UKDKR_xc_cVxq5AEGudvs4l9slNP76zgRBHftfFXsTPg75nJF zX17vaJdwqTtwA3AsjnwwJ1n0PGlgaaJRirSo3iLrRRtZbpuFl Izlqc-1hjR4xaawfJpWA8HK0bw2oPbYrXFdOGJ3GE88sr6Eq6-sE9UzQuzHgfuHjKlWUH2bETPjJ62YfKm2oAk0riAl5r5Cdo6u2 rWBmvEsttzY_82BI_XFS_DRg6i3RlO9Tik2IpIS53ibzZMAuhB JujbB1AFTE71o2wYMEoHwRYf6gk5T7PVHKhkwss=w400-h300-p-k-nu

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2eYIQWEtsMBnyp8OhwtT_A-goo7Am9qQWyCEoHnHdd_oQ0EiuUY9hHTCSjGO1k7QgE5Rgpxcn HBrK_DcHLM2q0MnQXrIdJAPh_76yUxvlzbQue0ic8GzPer8yzD mMzKpK3fWg-kRfEx5egb_bAq1-j3UbMqGw55KmeKEiNRSJ7H4J8PTtUS8ak_GH_vS8mu0SCMvPq3 Zk4uDfyjwZVx8gOu_mdJPudQHAlz5Z2U75SkPAqxb79u1WF8M0 ir7187wwRFsL_PINeMDR4RNnHM4FpXx3ychyIsgP38W2mXB-xINedrGAulOqr3QeDz0B77F0sfIT3rL3Stay7hkz-0SDCqJxL3rHxyJ0kBw1hnw_ITw6kPv7BdkN9xqle95_nwlnV1I ta7wKpcvWNW9lCBihlqjWBR70zigkhGfQAmCZ5HMdVuFVPBOF7 V1X-Qt74T-dNcoijT0py11r4UInRK5l4U7DT7sen_pPMBExC0YjSQxiTLMQf W8aRZRD17agf8zP0t45P-3TPFt5ncRQtugDmyJDb0bIRJIILDWtdXbKTlZK_NVNwhpVC0Cm e92pEmbQ-k2vLoVUnI03GOU4OYYDebl805h3nbf=w400-h300-p-k-nu

Sorry the pics are all on overcast days. Like most of the US, Louisville has been waterlogged of late! Thanks for looking! - Greg

[Cam]

Welcome aboard. You will find a lot of info on this site and we have quite a few people here that have done what you are doing. Help is just a question away. Thanks for the boat porn.

:clap::sun::love:

[Pipe_Dream]

Welcome! And thanks for a proper intro. Kudos to you for bringing this girl back to life. I'm a Kentucky native 30 years removed south, so I've been watching the state become another great lake this spring. Hope it dries out for you soon and best of luck with your project. Keep us posted and there are a lot of knowledgeable folks here (not me so much) to help you.

[phatdaddy]

nice project looks like a good one to restore. if the transom is solid and just deck is soft, might want to cut out rotten deck to see how much of the stringers will be exposed, possibly address that issue and leave cap in place.

also while your on the engine, i think that vintage yamaha is the one with the shift shaft coupler that gives problem. make sure its ok before going too deep in that motor.

looking forward to the build

[Myfathersson]

also while your on the engine, i think that vintage yamaha is the one with the shift shaft coupler that gives problem. make sure its ok before going too deep in that motor.

I've read about shift shaft corrosion issues on the models prior to the switch to stainless steel. Is that the problem or something altogether different?

[phatdaddy]

Yeah, that s the issue. The shaft would corrode at the adjustment turnbuckle. I m not positive on the years, but i remember they had the old style decals. Maybe ferm or spare will chime in

[Myfathersson]

Gotcha. Thanks phat. I'm sure the shaft will need replacing - it looks quite thin between the cowl and the drive and sure ain't shiny like SS would be. After the little bit of further inspection this evening, I've determined the powerhead is going to have to come off anyways if I do in fact rebuild this motor - the sleeves for the 1, 3 and 4 cylinders are spun - their ports are IMHO badly out of alignment with the passages in the block. So once I get the motor off the transom middle of next month following next week's vacation up north I'll focus on the hull structure while the weather is "nice" and leave the OB for the winter - if I can get the powerhead free without mangling the drive. It's clear it saw salt for much of its life, and clearly was allowed to run hot so the outlook is grim. I'm fine with the labor of tearing it apart to see if it's possible to salvage but I'm not spending another dime on the motor (already ordered a Yamaha Service Manual though it hasn't shipped yet) until I'm positive it's a wise course. Worst case I can part out the good bits on eBay.

Cyl 1:
https://drive.google.com/thumbnail?id=1-2uJ44ssClO_kEMrzJWHWV3S1V4zW9Vj

Cyl 3:
https://drive.google.com/thumbnail?id=1ZFgUrRDoETIkJ8GbWJlmym3xKCg2HaJH

Cyl 4:
https://drive.google.com/thumbnail?id=1--u6MS6f1jB19mPvP_bL6q3jeQkK5zrq

[Destroyer]

WELCOME TO THE SITE!!! Looks like you have the right outlook for her restoration. Too often a person will try to do the whole thing in one huge bite and get discouraged when they see how large the job is. Remember, it is possible to eat an entire elephant if you do it in several meals. The same holds true for a restoration... take small bites. Concentrate on one problem at a time, solve it completely and then move on to the next one.

Some thoughts::head:
The shift shaft used to be a major PITA to repair, but some enterprising engineers came up with a 2 piece fix that makes the job much easier. Look for it online.
Not liking the spun sleeves, nor the alum scuffing on #3. I think a new block or engine is in her future.
Soft decks are most often caused by the wood that's glued to the underside of the deck rotting out. Caused mostly by not properly venting the underside after usage and during storage. Ditto for the stringers. Not really hard to fix, just time consuming.
All foam, including closed cell, will, over time, absorb and become water logged. At 8.34 lbs per gallon it's amazing how many pounds it adds to the total weight of your boat. Check it carefully... Take core samples from several different places, and if it's waterlogged remove or replace it.

Good luck with the restoration and we look forward to seeing more boat porn in the coming months as the job progresses.

Welcome aboard Capt.:beer:

[Myfathersson]

Slowly plugging away. I've got all the wiring removed except for the running lights and the bilge & live well pumps. Removed the outboard yesterday and started power washing and stripping off the well worn vinyl decals today. More power washing on tap for tomorrow. Then I'll start fabricating 2x4 supports for lifting the cap off. I plan to get a half dozen guys from the office and feed them lunch one day to lift the cap up and roll it upside down. The gel coat is looking even better than I thought as I get it power washed. A number of spots where I'll have to spot repair the gel but paint might be limited to the floor itself.

Outboard off!
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1i3eiKePlUiwrIQpADe1YsfXU7fZ4Z0H8

Outboard parked behind the Harley:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1-YkO3YbJwDXpH1RjQDld682PKhcEG3ZN

Freshly naked transom:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ua5pKLCiEaLBod-KUd3N7-LoU33zNFHn

Transom cap removed:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1SsJS5cUDgE9feg9TqvTmphSSh1cTRi6t

Found this penciled on the back side of the aluminum transom cap:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=18_K7cu9Y7k-5AmPH2YT4hgLJAHvNij7G

Just before power washing started:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1UQfDwYoGsY_w_3YDeuqEIYOJJH43tm8v

Side by side comparison of the dirt coming off:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1hGN1ejMEPkzrvqBjLpAwS3civnc3aY7o

Results of day 1 of power washing:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1s__Yog-rcshpmNCie1drMt7XmL_rEJTU

[Pipe_Dream]

Making sound progress! :sun:

[Myfathersson]

Made some good progress this weekend. Got the tank emptied and all the suspect fuel recycled - it was 25% water. The interior of the tank looks really good, but I'm going to pull it anyhow to be sure since I'll have unfettered access with the cap off.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1mLwpIAUCQTNFyOIfV-_6WWYgb3EQvQn4

That out of the way I cut off the top of the splashwell at the transom so that I could get a bunch of chisels down thru to separate it from the transom. Then set to work on breaking the adhesive joining the stringers and the sole. A piece of 1/8"x1-1/2" steel 36" long with an edge ground onto one end made for a handy long reach chisel to get the hard to reach bits between the tank and the transom and the tank and the casting deck.

With everything broken free and disconnected I set to building the support structure that will be used to lift the cap. 2x4 spanning the gunnels tied down to 2x4 under the sole placed in at the bilge, fuel tank and insulated fish box.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1qIBYqsCRRZlGUGmB_RsnOWKDucUMKnuv

I used 12 footers across the gunnels as I originally planned to get a crew of guys to come over and help lift and walk the cap off but now I don't feel that's realistic so I'll be building a gantry to use a chainfall and hoist it off then pull the hull on the trailer forward and set the cap down. I jacked up each section and had the cap 2" clear to make sure that I had released all the adhesive.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Da-tlwvToqTyeh1P2D-tr96DI6Xex_7M

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=12Iy8A2mt29RgsWipw87uWxW1NdDtcgSI

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1NkxRclxL0j01IVhq4GOUud7DNWNpZ-XP

Looking in between the halves on the port side from the transom:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1nApRXcblQbhiasukQ050bf6LjTvlD0HM

and on the starboard side:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1vAxgsF6w46xIQSfL-GDsyDg_QH4Y29bf

2" of clear lift achieved the full length:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1yvNtTUXnqUVQVIhD86ndrqAF_rBS06XT

[Pipe_Dream]

Looks like tremendous progress. I tip my hat to you!

[Myfathersson]

Today was the big day - lifted the cap off!

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ssvrxf7rd2TnegTVNqMFNOErkLdCJ23n

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1JJHXcDYwYiCghJs9tXXtpqqri-iXZa7l

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1kRyuztRnKIVGbemlXht6ECj9ih2V1Nej

And rolled it over:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1NsFYJlkIrojJEjIC_5A1HST2jc9gvesM

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=18LzABIGCcbyxcYQzVAT29cDtNaLuNGss

Just seeing the hull without the cap in place was overwhelming. First thought was "what in the hell did I get myself into..."

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1XjrR2CQp1yziiFZl-EWntXy24kSj2BkE

The transom has rot up high even though down low it feels solid. This is the port side:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1vdTG4E5cSwQbVXcUu79VQENo-5zAC3Rp

Though the starboard side looks pretty solid but we'll see when I pull the interior skin:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1DtYchsOWZ6Cl0X3PW7OAbpm0-qSPcuVP

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1QuYlnG4MPbL2Kw6kfeJ9o_XLxl9_rdk2

Timelapse video of the lift and the roll over on my Facebook page:

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10215784076969907&id=1083633013 (Facebook Video Link)

Tomorrow I'll pull out the shop vac and start getting the junk out of the hull then begins the task of chunking out all that foam. Placed my order from US Composites yesterday, should arrive late next week just in time for my vacation the week of the 5th.

[Slightly_Twisted]

:clap::clap::clap:
Great job! You took your time and did the lift right. It is completely overwhelming when you see it, but it is sooooo worth it! You have room to work, and you will always find a problem you didn’t see before. The form is a *****! The first v20 rebuild I did had from like your, I used an ice chipper and it worked well.
https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/snow-ice-removal/snow-shovels/truper-reg-7-welded-sidewalk-ice-scraper/atj-r/p-1444445290308.htm

I will recommend if you don’t have a full face respirator get one. They are hot as hell but so nice when grinding.

[Myfathersson]

Thanks Twist! I know it'll be worth it, just an overwhelming moment, partially because I was exhausted and sweating gallons! I got this - just a thousand tiny steps to get to my goal.

Spent 7 hours Sunday chopping out foam. Plenty of rest breaks to let my ankles unkink and guzzle water by the super size Yeti full. I started with a floor scraper which worked great until the final cell on the starboard side when the cast aluminum head of it cracked. Picked up a long steel chipper from Harbor Freight on the way home from work tonight to replace it, along with an air chisel to assist with removing the globs of adhesive. Wish I had thought to bag the adhesive chunks separately - it weighs a ton and there's a massive amount of excess everywhere. Is that really 3M 5200??

I managed to get all the foam on the starboard side out. Port side remains along with the fuel tank. I think I will remove the rear bulkhead from behind the tank and use the long reach chisel I made for breaking the adhesive between the floor and stringers to break the foam from under the tank then tab that bulkhead back in or replace it altogether. Another option is the stringers either side of the tank where they weren't fully capped are mushy so maybe I'll cut those sections out and go in from the sides. Still not sure and it's a couple steps off so I've got time to think and evaluate.

Picture time!
Working on the first cell:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1aAPRrXGE6AJ9EbdivZoxe7j-VVyKlW9y

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1hfDB_ugFYYNAyQK60rKuViMRVcVMkajB

Found this nugget of history encapsulated in the first cell under the conduit:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1stlckXYKCz_BbYu5_X8z0Xxu8VVmLtDQ

You can see my scraper in it's handy holster (foam yet to be removed) in the background:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1RpnIO4RlDMq-YmiX46FbT-2aNuU5itZH

Three cells down:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1aKqUOHbnmOxNR_2B6pTrfba2P8xLfdFm

I must not have taken a photo at the end of the day LOL. Lugging all the tools back down to the basement is enough of a chore let alone remembering to document as much as possible :)

4 lawn bags filled with foam done, so likely 4 more to go. There wasn't as much waterlogged material as I feared there might be. But there was some. Nice how the waterlogged foam releases from the fiberglass of the hull rather easily. I'll go back in with a wire brush after everything is stripped to clean up the remaining residue.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Nice work,

You got the right idea tons of small steps. The foam is a huge pain, just from amount of physical labor to get it out! The white hard globs on top of the stringers is not 5200. It’s some type thickened epoxy, wellcraft used as glue. I used a sledge hammer to knock it off where I needed to take measurements and get levels. I didn’t bother with most of it since I was cut out the stringers anyways.

Once you get the foam out you can get a real good idea of how much needs to be replaced!

[phatdaddy]

Great job. Wish u were closer, i d drop mine off for the winter, and pick it up in the spring, all ready to go.

Like skunk said, mines an 83 or 84 and no foam, only in fuel cell compartment

[Myfathersson]

Well Phat we've yet to see if I can get this thing back together or not! Plus without a garage I'm limited to what I can get down to the basement to work on in the workshop over the winter :)

Glad to know that's not 5200 that I see mentioned so often. I thought maybe peanut butter but didn't get any sense of glass content so must have been just a powder filler with the resin. It's for sure hard - using a brick chisel and a 20oz hammer was still a helluva lot of effort to get the overhanging globs clear so I could easily run the scraper down the stringer.

Got the shipment notification from UPS for my US Composites order this evening. Should be here Wednesday if my normal driver doesn't murder me for the 4 hefty boxes coming. So if I get the foam out Saturday and open up the problem spots the first half of next week I should be starting glass work the following weekend. I've decided to go with readily available MDO plywood for the cores in lieu of marine ply.

[phatdaddy]

i wish they d built their transoms as stout as they built the pencils

[Myfathersson]

Excellent progress made this weekend. Got all the foam stripped out. 8 lawn and leaf bags worth:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1XvDEPFuC4UcVW96wCMtV26juuapFd2sM

Then cut out the rotted bulkhead aft of the fuel tank:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1dNbL6sfKLB005dKhcaeUDDUO6hnf_RKo

Ran the chainsaw down the sides to free the tank from that foam and then drove some 15 deg 4x4 wedges under the back edge of the exposed tank and it popped out nicely:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1SGPYuVFNKKQguF1IllNk2Y1dQNjJnP5_

The tank looks mediocre but there is too much pitting and corrosion for me to feel good about putting it back in so it'll get replaced., The Moeller FT5007 looks like it might drop in with just a slight drop in capacity (that I don't feel I need anyhow) - https://www.oceanlinkinc.com/product/50-gallon-belly-shaped-tank-44-x-30-75-x-10-25-folt5007/

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19yzXaWNiat-ibpEQuIAhwMGZX3-_oFbO

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1KRNh2_VWz5P1aVzGghiWHYBuS09GGWwN

I did my exploratory holes to evaluate the condition of the stringers and sadly every 12" was at a minimum waterlogged, many spots of plain mush, so I began the work of getting it off the trailer so I can fully support the hull under the stringers:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=16dysS2CeItaiulW2PWz8UymgFwF_Ffj9

I'm presently supported at 7 points - keel and both chines at the transom, keel and both chines about 5' to 6' forward of the transom and at the keel at the forward point where it begins to curve up. Tomorrow I'll begin making supports that are directly under the strakes at the stringers.

I always planned to replace the trailer with a stouter tandem axle but here's an example of how poor of shape the rollers are in:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1-tCBcrJN-lQUlBu6tc7ZiC1uCjytYaeK

Everything is clean and ready for me to take my measurements and start cutting out the foul wood:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1IR-5_36BHl3FgTFp6LGpjgpV9zmI1Ewx

Gonna be a busy staycation this week. I hope the weather holds! My 30 yds of 1708, 7.5gal of slow epoxy and some gelcoat showed up this past week but I don't think that will be enough now that I've confirmed all the stringers need replacing. More demo the next few days than had been anticipated so FG won't get started till late week at the earliest. I'll see how far I get before I order more materials in case I need to modify the set speed for lower expected temps.

[Pipe_Dream]

Excellent progress. And good decision on the tank.

[Myfathersson]

Progress continues, although today was less progress than I wanted. I'll get to that.

First - This was the best tool for removing all the foam. This Fiskars shovel is all steel and STOUT. I originally bought this last spring to lay the low voltage cable for my landscape lighting. It has fantastic prying capacity. I went from taking baseball and softball size chunks out with the ice chipper and floor scraper, to taking out pumpkin sized chunks. Wish I had remembered this puppy sooner!

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17JN1m8NZcfOhobb1PDQgJnT6VC6AL7iL

Since I determined all the stringers needed to be replaced I had to shore up the hull to prevent deformation. First it came off the trailer and supported by concrete blocks and cribbing, then I braced under the strakes which fall directly under most of the stringers.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1_Sr2vVDonhOoKxcl3NWq5punNfGGBVZo

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1q1KemfPJiJMEYSMZz13iSeIAxn30Kavy

It's simply a pair of 12' 2x4 sistered together with 2x4 uprights cut to length to rest atop a handful of 2x6 PT I had left in my lumber stock. The beam did have a split for an angle change - I matched the hull's form as closely as I could.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1eemgKri7a4_lPI3VE3okyv-MJ8E2C2KN

With the hull braced it was into the bunny suit to begin cutting the crap out.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1zxpfFordQFvteyS3ZRqnQGYpwlbeRnb5

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1F8OSjRW1mRDA4urOpJhW0uiZ3mIhvYB6

The transom is a little wetter here than it was when the skin came off - I had just hosed down the area when I took this photo:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1rm4Kv0eH4ZBw3zimEq1zwMUkGHhfjxuU

Here the hull is all cleaned. I am leaving the forward bulkhead and 2 short stringers for the moment. I haven't made a complete call on those yet - they are sound although...moist. I will probably remove but for the moment I wanted to keep a little form to the hull.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17fUoz1yT3y903--1-RrXjiqQCYDAQRYI

Transom skin peeled off relatively easy:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ELTob-TmYMKPqCXfEQGdGTNhmKElUAsp

The port side stringer shell and all the bulkheads with their mushy rotten fly attracting cores:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=12DfV2LhcqoEdSDEKHLiXyrAo6-2w3_b8

I should have tested my respirator seal - I balked at shaving my beard. As a result today I have been coughing and sneezing like mad. Ordered a full face respirator and shaved off my beard. Today sucked and I didn't get much done aside from flaking the rest of the plywood off the transom down to where I will have to grind the remainder.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ako1WDyuc8_3YNA3aCIPHmfDxQKTIT3h

But I did get all my plywood. 5 sheets of 3/4" MDO Plywood and 3 sheets of 1/2" MDO Plywood - a $500 trip to Menards. But I am impressed with the quality of this stuff. They had Marine on the shelf for another $10 a sheet but it looked rather wavy so I stuck with my original plan to use the MDO.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ewJ6wq5gJJApCk0qhssgT0Nmke7whxva

Tomorrow I'll putz around with some low impact stuff like color matching my gelcoat and putting together a list of all the hardware I need to start thinking about ordering. Respirator is coming by 9pm tomorrow along with a new batch of Tyvek suits - love how they always tear out in the crotch...the absolute last place I want to have the FG itch manifest...

[Myfathersson]

DAMN it feels GOOD to start seeing the constructive side of this project and not just the destructive! Started on the ply sections for the transom today:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=152l9QJWLbVGmBXklidsrhOQwSaKsoi3w

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1PKEVzQk22b37Md2nZAPUFW3XP0ItWuWW

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1QkCsxbXkJTu1cdnkD9nLE0dZx3HNCoCh

Once those were out of the way I prepped my stringer stock - I'm sawtooth joining like Slightly Twisted showed in his thread.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17FAqawT7Tgtp6QLgPuM68siExUKL-1IX

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10x8y_I_wemzHUj1GY4pnQg_Q3Zs6cbD6

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Dp8-NXCgDqs6p_X8n0aYyAlDsLsZizDE

Peanut butter joints on the stringers are setting up overnight. Tomorrow it's back to grinding to get the rest of the stringer and bulkhead locations cleaned up. My second batch of grinding discs arrived this afternoon. After the grinding is done and I've washed the whole works down I'll set the first layer of the transom - hopefully tomorrow afternoon but Sunday morning most likely.

[Destroyer]

:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:No words needed..

[phatdaddy]

Nice job

I was watching Florida Sportsman Project Dreamboat on YouTube. This guy was rebuilding a 261 Mako and put a wood transom back in. He left out small section of wood around the drain hole. Said most failures start there and it doesn t do much structurally.

[Myfathersson]

Nice job

I was watching Florida Sportsman Project Dreamboat on YouTube. This guy was rebuilding a 261 Mako and put a wood transom back in. He left out small section of wood around the drain hole. Said most failures start there and it doesn t do much structurally.

Funny you should mention that phatdaddy. I have been unhappy with how much offset there is between the drain hole and the keel as I've been spraying down the dust to save my shop vac, so my plan has been to redrill that more flush with the bilge, and when I do I plan to oversize it and pack the perimeter with a slurry of chopped strand and epoxy.

[Myfathersson]

Today's post is light on pics as my hands were gloved and mixing/spreading thickened epoxy today. But I finished up all the grinding yesterday and today set to placing the first layer of the transom:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1nWlBiSxlBxf-aDwtPWY7XU6YLKErOIOR

I think I'll grab some larger mixing tubs from Home Depot on the way home from work tomorrow. Mixing up the thickened epoxy in quart size tubs is a chore. It takes a lot more material than I anticipated to thicken up a batch. Time to do some math and see if I have enough Cabosil and milled fiber to do all the peanut buttering I have left to do.

Also need to order another 20 grinding discs to cover the grinding I'll have to do on the sole as well. For anyone embarking on a similar project a word of advice - don't think that 24 grit is too aggressive like I did before starting. After grinding out the hull, if there was a lower grit I'd jump on it. I went through 20 discs and I was pushing thru with discs that should have been swapped out much sooner. If I had 40 to do the hull grinding I would have used them all and had no regrets. This isn't a cheap endeavour and just like FG and resin, grinding discs are not a place to skimp if you enjoy your sanity.

[phatdaddy]

https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-36-grit-flap-disc-67642.html

Have you tried this style

[Myfathersson]

That's the style I'm using. These specifically:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHY5G3S

[Slightly_Twisted]

Damn you’re moving along fast! Nice job! :clap:

[Myfathersson]

Damn you’re moving along fast! Nice job! :clap:

Things will slow down a little bit now Twist. Being on vacation last week and devoting most of that time to the project helped make some major progress happen :)

Got the final layer of the new transom core epoxied in place after work this evening:
https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1yLR2LFQ2UnftQEVTi4N6cnGkwUnZ8QeY

Tomorrow evening I'll work on the gap filling and fillets. Climbing around the clamps wasn't the most attractive thing and frankly my legs are sore from climbing in and out over the last week. I ain't as young as I once was...

[Myfathersson]

Yesterday evening I got the gaps filled and filleting in place on the transom. Went much smoother than I thought it might. I used a few PVC pipe fitting as my forms for the different radii that I was after. I may still add a little more filler at the strakes and chines to help the fabric flow better when I lay it this weekend.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1-np3PGwH_NAL3BY13udL8EZ2j73t0oVq

This evening I cut the sheets of 1708 I'll cover the transom with. And in doing so I came to the realization that I ordered the wrong line item...instead of getting 50" wide biax I only ordered the 38" wide. Still works for the transom but is too narrow for how I'm planning to lay the stringers. So instead of the plan to place an order for 18oz roving for the back side of the sole, the sole will now get 1708 and the stringers will be getting 2 layers of 17oz Biax without mat. I'm sure that won't be my last hiccup of this adventure! I didn't get to working out the cuts to match the patterns as my frustration with the mis-order had me too worked up. Better to walk away for a day and come back refreshed and clear.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Nice work getting the core in!

Ok about your new plan if i remember correctly you are using epoxy resin?
This whole opinion is based off that.

I’m NOT even close to a expert so take this with a grain of salt.

With epoxy there is no need to use 1708. You can just use 17oz biaxl. The 1708 soaks up to much resin and does not increase strength of the glass. The reason for this is 1708 is just 17oz biaxl stitched with 1.5 oz mat. The mat does almost zero for strength, but it does waterproof the core plus add thickness.
The 1708 will also not make the curve on the top of the stringer.

What I have picked up is this layer up with epoxy.
All wet on wet for chemical bond
1. Clean everything with a chemical solution.
2. Glue the stringer down PL or peanut butter. Add fillets
3. 1.5 oz mat to waterproof the make the curve on top
4. 6 inch 17 oz biaxl tape
5. 10 inch 17 oz biaxl tape
6. 12 to 16 inch 17oz biaxl tape enough to reach the top of the stringer and 4 to 6 inches overlap of the last tape on the hull side,
7. If fairing 1.5 mat over the area.

This is both sides of the stringer.

Someone Else will confirm if I’m right and or close!

Don’t just take my word for it!!!

[Myfathersson]

You are correct - I am using epoxy - US Composites, I've got 6 gallons of slow and a pending order for 13.3 gallons of medium along with my 50" biax. I knew I was going to have to implement some sort of solution to hold the radius at the top (I'm putting a 1/4" radius on the 3/4" boards) using 1708, switching to straight biax will make life a little easier there. I'll use the 1708 on the transom this weekend, and then on the sole, if I need to tab the edges of that layup to make the turn onto the sides of the sole I'm okay with that.

I'm not using tapes on my stringers. My plan from the start has been (2) 50" wide continuous wet on wet layups. That gives me a little over 8" tabbed onto the hull each side of the stringer for each layer. I am thinking I will break it down into 3 or 4 ft lengths and then stagger the location of joints on the second layer.

[oteps]

Keep the pics coming, great job. I have been thinking of doing this to my boat. Seems like a lot more work than I thought, but I don't know a lot about fiberglass. Ill just drop my boat off at your house. Im probably 14th in line, you should have it done by next spring right?

[Myfathersson]

Keep the pics coming, great job. I have been thinking of doing this to my boat. Seems like a lot more work than I thought, but I don't know a lot about fiberglass. Ill just drop my boat off at your house. Im probably 14th in line, you should have it done by next spring right?

I won't lie, it's a LOT of work. And it isn't easy, but at the same time it isn't hard. This is the largest fiberglass project I've ever undertaken by a long shot (previously built a handful of fiberglass RC airboats with hardware store poly resin) but with the knowledge found here and other forums I think I've got a solid plan to achieve my goal. My pocketbook begs to differ but that's another matter LOL. Knowing the hours I've got in on this thus far I don't even want to fathom a guess at what a pro shop would charge. I'll be lucky to get my cap back on before winter here in the Ohio Valley. That's the goal right now.

I got the transom glassed on today. I'll post an update on that later when I'm on the couch with the laptop. A storm is rolling in right now. Gotta keep an eye on my tarp and make sure I don't get any water in the bilge since I don't have a drain at present!

[Myfathersson]

Boat porn time! The last couple evenings I used the cardboard templates I made for the core to lay out my glass sheets and test fit them to have any nips and tucks ready to rock. Got up this morning after a poor night of sleep (nerves anticipating today) and I set up all my supplies. At roughly 26 sq ft per sheet of 1708 this was the biggest layup I've attempted to date. I wanted to make sure I had every possible supply close by so I checked and rechecked and tried to think of everything that could go wrong. Finally decided I had every conceivable base covered and I mixed up a batch of ketchup consistency epoxy to paint on the ground portions of the hull, painted it on and then mixed up 78oz of straight epoxy (US Composites Slow Laminating) and set to coating the transom and set in the first layer of 1708:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1h1axWYpS9og3j-tVP1rUh063vXB6LjrL

The glare is deceptive there, it really was much more translucent than the picture shows, as you'll see in the next photo after 2 layers. Once that was saturated I rolled it out with the fin roller and got all the voids to close up. I spent a LOT of time working bubbles out at the fillet but I got that figured out during the second layer:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1o9Sv0JtjSU3d6l0ThRwvjc8MjXJgSLW_

Second layer in plus a 7 layer exterior patch to cover the original drain plug hole I filled the other night that I'm going to shift down slightly to minimize the lip to the bilge bottom. The faces that Wellcraft left exposed on the core are fully wrapped to the exterior - there will be no aluminum cap strip! I plan to do another wrap once the cap is back in place from the inside of the splashwell over to the face of the transom so what I did today doesn't wrap as far down the transom as it should. Sorry - storms were on their way in so after cleaning up and taking that last photo I covered her back up and didn't get a pic of the exterior of the transom - which is also now sporting a number of long epoxy drips that I didn't take the time to go back and remove. Thankfully I was planning that the transom was going to get a decent amount of gel repair so no harm beyond more sanding (yay). When I do the splash well wrap I'll grind down part of the wrap I did today and glass the whole shebang together. No water is getting in THIS core.

It rained pretty good for about 15 minutes right after I took the last tool inside and cracked open a Yeungling on the carport:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1O2UzoTpcKShvC2-zKBz3001AUViDEN3z

Cover held just fine, the storm was shorter than the last one we had. Still eager to get a bilge drain hole in place though.

Back to the fillet glassing. Since this was the first glass project I've tackled with an inside curve I learned something in the fin rolling. At first I was trying to work the excess and bubbles to the edge, but with the inside corner the bubble would push past then I'd end up pulling the glass back off the fillet from the roller pressure. By the second sheet I realized that all I needed to do was force the excess and bubbles into the fillet from each side until they passed thru the glass, which resulted in much quicker rolling of the second layer. I'm really happy with how it all turned out today. Since the cloth was only 38" wide instead of the 50" I had meant to order I shifted each pattern to give more/less coverage to the top and bottom. As a result I laid a handful of 6" wide by 18" long tabs across the bilge which I think resulted in a really stout connection, and a single extra strip of 6" across the top of each side of the transom. The 1708 behaved beautifully transitioning over the 1/4" radius I put on the face layer of the ply, and even nicer over the 1" radius I gave the fillets along the hull and the 13/16" radius at the top sides of the transom.

My confidence level for the stringers as a result of today's experience is markedly improved. I'm going to leave the hull alone for tomorrow and start stripping the sole. Monday evening I'll drill the pilot hole for my new bilge drain and seal up any core I expose so that Tuesday or Wednesday I can wash the cover and the hull again - the little bit of sanding I did to prep for laying today's glass has everything coated again and I'd rather not have to suit up to lay out my stringers!

[Myfathersson]

Well I didn't go outside at all on Sunday. It was just too hot to think about jumping in that bunny suit and cutting away glass. So I ventured downstairs into my nicely air conditioned workshop and prepped a PVC sleeve for the bilge drain and a "split ruler" to position the drain.

I took a piece of 1" PVC pipe and turned the outside diameter down to 1.240" on the lathe and then relieved the inside diameter a bit before finally pocketing one end to 28mm to match my new drain plug.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=16LJnLrx_uNkhp0MbPRN89-VB12BnvFj-

Then a scrap of plywood and 2 lengths of 2x4 to make 2 legs to gauge the location inside and outside of the hull, and a couple scraps of ply to provide a starter guide for my 1.25" forstner bit to start perpendicular to the exterior of the transom.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1G1IgVBdE90Q2mtxkbNzsxOkGDEy7lHI6

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ZekjnO5Lo-5xafC6zgHiWuFq0ydrmvu8

Got home from work this afternoon, laid out the desired location, drilled the hole and mixed up a batch of mayonnaise consistency epoxy, coated both the hole and the sleeve and tapped it in just proud of the exterior and made sure there was a good lip of excess epoxy on the inside. That can cure up till tomorrow evening when I will sand away the excess to be nicely flush and contoured with the inside glass and proceed to power washing the whole thing without worries that there are any exposed edges for moisture to take advantage of.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1MuaCHIzT30xqLd-IXPGXFYSvjnD1_vMH

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1snDC7I-64JQTPKxmAbKqQEtLH_LljH19

Since I had the forstner bits out I grabbed the 1.375" and cleaned up the thru hull holes. I ordered the new stainless thru hulls yesterday even though they'll sit until I have patched all the gelcoat and wet sanded and buffed the hull.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10wZN38x-jl38r9787zWxtSG5lKFvRxBt

I also took some time to grab a chisel and remove the drips of epoxy. I'm not sure if it's the highly honed edge I keep on my chisels or that the gelcoat was still waxed and never abraded (or a combination of all of the above) but the epoxy came off really cleanly from where I didn't want it.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19Jm93ITF2dglF8gZiESJBYZDDA7tlULk

[Destroyer]

:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap: Great job!!! THANK YOU for all the pics and descriptions Love the progress you're making on her. Keep up the great work.

[Myfathersson]

Thanks Destroyer! Lots left to do!

[phatdaddy]

very impressive build. imagine how easy that would have been for wellcraft to do 30 or 40 years ago.

thanks for the photos and detailed descriptions

[SkunkBoat]

love watching this stuff.:clap:

[Myfathersson]

And here's the bilge drain sleeve all cleaned up on the inside.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1spakyrtPJkJl7cob7XgmOIpcOahZFZTo

Then my friendly UPS driver backed all the way up into my driveway to help me B.O.A.T.:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=15TxJuNtANgHYoV356HrisH0ZssX05oTE

13.3 gallons of epoxy, more Cabosil, microbeads and gel colorant, and 40 yds of 17oz biax. I think that'll be the biggest single ticket order until I get to replacing the leaning post, adding a t-top and whatever I decide to to with the outboard.

Made up a mount to hold one of my high power laser pointers for laying out the stringers, then after the underwhelming storms powered through I power washed the whole thing. Could've gone a little lower on the drain hole but it's still much better than it was originally. Right now I'm just glad to have all the current grinding dust washed out for the next step. Cheers!:beer:

[Blue_Runner]

I'm amazed at the progress you've made. Can't wait to see splashdown. I tip my hat to you sir!

[Myfathersson]

I'm amazed at the progress you've made. Can't wait to see splashdown. I tip my hat to you sir!

Thank you! I'm really looking forward to the forecast break in the heat that's supposed to come tomorrow night, That will make throwing the bunny suit on to continue grinding a lot more bearable! As I marked out rough lines on the hull for stringers tonight I decided I didn't grind out far enough for the tabbing to come, and circled a few spots that I want to add a little glass to for reinforcing. Time to order up more grinding discs!

[Myfathersson]

very impressive build. imagine how easy that would have been for wellcraft to do 30 or 40 years ago.

thanks for the photos and detailed descriptions

Agreed! Especially with plenty of supplies at the ready, very little extra material or labor would've been involved! But I guess then they wouldn't be able to sell you another one quite as soon...

[Myfathersson]

love watching this stuff.:clap:

Thank you! I'm glad my contributions are being enjoyed!

[Myfathersson]

Yesterday evening after work I took advantage of the drop in temp to climb in the suit and cut a bit. Got the sole partially stripped. As expected all of the plywood was rotten and delaminating.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ZErBbg-vzyjCr03u0Q8SPcLqUULlAout

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1gSS1Il0HwSYgsNK4UQH55It0iiGiiRWs

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1HB-m6jWNJ7-CE2knLlWjWdMWcpPfhkIV

And then today I stripped a little more before deciding the wind was too high to cut and grind without perturbing the neighbors. So once I power washed the cap down I pulled out the stringer stock and started on the stringers. I started with my laser pointer setup to get my heights:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1DUFR3z04GCtXsiT5QD_om84H4L7E0RKk

Look close and you can make out the green dot back on the transom:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Gf1d_JI2zeV_oCr4XS72E12hYw4yZpzu

I set the height by a couple of strings through screw holes in the hull transposed from their matching holes in the cap where I measured precisely to the underside of the sole, and compared it with my records of dimensions before cutting the stringers out:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1xGnUamQnL2ooar9cULH4TJutGm2dqza8

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1GSKojbfyCi0283L5q_k5dF6bxr8L9QTW

Took new measurements from the hull to line and transposed those new dimensions onto the stringer stock:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=153_dhMSvYQEFFxSQrafFauMjWtVr1Dxl

And traced the tail and utility cutout profiles from the original stringer shells:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10Tk5JPgQL7QDY5pf7-M3zvet0wzeId3-

Cut carefully and set it in place for a test fit:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1VD4jJcVPpxczgvaFPVBNUYAVEYMrzB5C

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1z6OuxjzNrmsxnSfd_jLPpbNdfrTwRG7i

Measured to make sure I had the right offset from the reference laser line, made a few adjustments and then repeated for the starboard side. Voila - two accurate fit stringers:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=15ufBokTkh7-ZQkuIG41hCFW9Ewd0k0tQ

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1fLMp_O3x4vohiRklOBRlKIx0UK280qi3

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1c2eQeOHQx48JmvvSoeycO7dl18zJiq_B

Then carried each one downstairs to the router table and put a 1/4" radius along the top edge to ease wrapping the 17oz biax around the profile:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1uOgBprpzIHEUEGT_gse1_9Jg5nw0x_kb

Tomorrow I hope the weather (specifically the wind) cooperates to let me grind and wash down the hull so that I can proceed to bedding these two in place.

[Myfathersson]

Hoping this is a VERY productive Labor Day Weekend here. Here's what I was up to this week.

Took the stringers back down into the shop and worked on glassing the curved features on them. Glad I elected to do it in the comfort of the shop instead of in place. I was able to experiment and get a feel for how to conform to the curves. First one wasn't the prettiest and required lots of additional sanding but it is covered. Here's the second one where I started to get the hang of the right approach. Still room for improvement:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1gVAo6ZSRedgxhRBNT23r9ShufsbmIRYs

Yes - the shop needs for it to rain one day (or 7...) so I can straighten things up - it's even more disorganized than what you can see in these photos.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1X4OF-21IfUxNg5IAqd2SHEzgrrFt2SNS

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=16XzRGrEz4osGYBOS4H5HR_tEWwsY6qCh

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1mfqXvE2Pd81nI1JMyqeYkpASuF_9aaM4

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1atFeEwf56zCw-BWzo-Nwa5N-Uz_vAAuC

Then spent a night sanding them clean. With that out of the way I laid them in the hull, aligned the top edges and tacked them in place with peanut butter.

Came back the next night, lightly sanded the tacks and filleted them in 100%:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ByOwZQUGBNo39WnFMKSnHnWWQB4883fh

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1HKgCHeLxoKFgrS3zaFpAMkUZ0IwdxGuT

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1mMgWQh8dOj_UXlQymXjwPlTJuozOfx_g

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1WD-fFPT0oW2idNeMTSemq5UGVFgi461V

The boards clamped in place aren't the bulkheads, just spacers to align the tops and spacing and keep everything parallel:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1AqU0Se23LmZYSg9J6bCvSTthJDXt6b3a

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1E-r2JzmXRaZt5akT-kBVUtVipbm-AKif

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1AMalHNcADr-NcqwjIeoCrDfE2ibeV8pt

That wrapped up the work week. This morning I took a 90 mile road trip and snagged a new (to me) tandem axle trailer:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ggEE5Dto7vI2X92Q6SNkTDASXyfWyNaw

Might have to make a small adjustment to the bow roller and winch mount but other than that it is sound and pulled like a feather on the drive home. Brakes on both axles and the bunks and carpet are in great shape for a salvage yard find. Just need to get 2 new tires.

Once I got back to Louisville I dove into sanding the fillets in preparation for glassing. I've been watching Boat Works Today videos on youtube and Andy recommended a handheld belt sander. He uses a Makita that retails for around $250. I couldn't (at the time) justify that pricetag so I snagged a smaller Wen off Amazon for about $35. I gotta say - this is an EXTREMELY versatile tool. Made easy work of sanding the fillets and tight areas between the stringers and strakes a relative breeze. If you're thinking about tackling a project like this I can't recommend one of these highly enough. The only draw back to this is the belt being so narrow makes it wear pretty quick. The dust collection isn't perfect but it's leaps and bounds better than using the grinder, and removes material almost as effectively. I just might pull the trigger on that Makita in the near future to get a little wider belt and larger radius on the head:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1XlxGTMaiuAcZv5Hkm-QnKjrVMZQnzj8M

They're all sanded, vacuumed and washed down now:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1pqDUnl2QSOLDqR29sqG2g63xQ6lOg7D5

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1jcCRf954SLtbQdUR3fufaf3q6zyjfz1L

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1TlVE59PkWZw2b7Z4vzkglLh894wj8n3j

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=11HjjHi0FMYb3cdIfE-kEpAzUUE6YzDS7

Tomorrow morning I'll start cutting my sections of biax to prep for glassing. My goal is to get the starboard side glassed in tomorrow. If things go smoothly the port too, but I'm not holding my breath! I've slightly modified my layup plans. I had grand plans to do the whole length in a single piece but I think now that the time is nigh that plan was a wee bit overzealous for my experience level. So instead I'm doing 50x50 sections, overlapping the joints and staggering the layers.

Hope everyone else is enjoying their long weekend, hopefully out on the water, or like me - watching the long awaited triumphant return of college football - especially the University of Michigan! GO BLUE! HAIL HAIL!

[Myfathersson]

Suffice to say I am exhausted. Took a long time and a nudge from my brother in Ohio to decide to have a margarita and some dinner instead of just going to bed. 12 1/2 hours, 6 gallons of epoxy and 22 yards of glass later the stringers are laminated.

I made up a rod holder on the side of my gantry to hold the rolls of glass, and set up one of the sheets of plywood that's waiting to be used for the bulkheads as a cut table early this morning.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1RupsMzscI57uHlAUfIgBpICo_M5LXt7V

Felt like home ec class 30+ years ago all over again.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1_k-Pb9aHtLkz7OblQ0oENPFDch1p9xkQ

I started off trying to use rollers and smoked a couple batches of epoxy and trashed a roller frame so was in and out of the hull more than anticipated. The result...there might be a bit of grass laminated in the bilge... Threw down a layer of plastic which helped that, but unfortunately it liked to slide around on the excess epoxy draining out and to my shoes which have a nice healthy coat. A word to the wise - don't wear slip on shoes when epoxying - they might be convenient but when they get sticky they tend to slip off just as easily as they slip on!

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1jtcs_SoVHblDAOm3pB-SeIK7hGeviwgn

But I got it done, including a layer of 1708 down the keel/bilge.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1IlwzSXej2TbwO3YuGi7sMmPu2GviWuzg

Left a little tag for whoever pulls this hull apart next:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1OnPvY11_wx8deMhgKoNZzCNWdrcLZMBu

That's a lot of epoxy...and based on the estimation from West Systems' page I only exceeded the estimate by a quarter gallon - and based on the smoked batches I tossed - I'd say it was spot on.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19eNn6eZGNiEW-dc_J5OX674Tk0Uklq5U

I know the layup isn't perfect - there are bubbles and I'm going to have to either drill and pump in a fill or grind and reglass a few spots on the fillets. I think the heat was too much today for this epoxy formulation - they laid down flat but then it really seemed like once they started to gel the whole lamination shrank. If I were to ever do this again (highly unlikely! LOL) I would laminate up each side of the stringer and then cap the top instead of trying to do a full wrap from tab to tab. Hindsight is 20/20. Should've followed the process so many others have used.

Tomorrow will be a well deserved day of relaxation. All I plan to do is pull the 2 worn tires off the new trailer and maneuver the trailer into the back yard so I can unhook it from the truck and then cut the grass. Happy Labor Day y'all!

Greg

[Slightly_Twisted]

:beer:
Wow you have made a ton of progress!
I can’t believe you got both glassed in.

What was your final layer up schedule?

Nice job!

[Myfathersson]

:beer:
Wow you have made a ton of progress!
I can’t believe you got both glassed in.

What was your final layer up schedule?

Nice job!

My body requires ibuprofen today! Thanks for the compliment. Final schedule is 2 layers of 17oz biax tabbed 10" onto the hull, with a layer of 1708 biax 38" wide down the keel which rolls up just to the top of the fillets. Original lamination was 0.0823" thick on the 24oz roving, my two layers yielded 0.0878" so it's at least as stout as what Wellcraft laid in there 32 years ago. The bulkheads down the keel will get the same treatment of 2 layers of 17oz, the side wings I only plan on a single layer.

Still need to order the fuel tank, figure out how I'm going to secure it, and decide if I'm replacing the foam or not. Might grab a dry chunk and figure out exactly what density it was to help calm my concerns that it might have had some structural value.

[Slightly_Twisted]

Nice yeah if your at the same thickness and you have 100% incapsulated the wood I would agree you are all set. Realistically the only reason they fail is water intrusion, if you really take your time a seal it it will last a life time.

For the tank I’m planning on no foam. The aluminum ones need air flow or they will pit and fail. I’m going with something close to this video. Over all a good install OTHER then I have not idea why he doesn’t seal the screws into the stringers!! To me that is a failure waiting for water intrusion.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8m0sVshBrXQ.

The poly tanks I’m no export on but I would think it would be no different. as along as it’s well supported on the sides and bottom.

[SkunkBoat]

About V20 foamed-in fuel tanks...

The fuel tank space was a sealed compartment. There was a pvc pipe to allow water to pass from fwd to aft bilge. The deck hatch was meant to be sealed watertight. Any water that got into that space stayed there.

You have to decide if you are going to make it a bilge space or seal it.

If you foam it you have to make it sealed with a pvc pipe. Foaming has the advantage of easily securing the tank without brackets. Of course, we know the problem of foam and aluminum tanks.
I foamed in a new aluminum tank because(at the time) I could not find a correct plastic tank with fittings in the same place and workable dimensions. I do believe there is a 55 gal Moeller tank out there that is correct.
I think a foamed plastic tank in a sealed compartment is the best solution.

oh, be careful if you find a plastic tank. New design tanks are not vented per EPA rules. You need a vented tank ...or you need to figure out what extra parts are required to use a non-vented tank.
Also, I worry that non-vented tanks expand and contract quite a bit so foaming may be a problem.

If you go with an open bilge space you will have standing bilge water under the tank and often touching the tank. You will have to hang the tank from your new stringers with bolts.(drill holes!!!)that's 360+ pounds

As for foam in the space outside the stringers I think it will deaden the sound and make it feel much more solid. Same with the foamed tank. Of course, it will be safer also.

Oh, plan on installing a forward bilge pump. You have the opportunity to plumb the hose out the side!

[SkunkBoat]

I’m going with something close to this video. Over all a good install OTHER then I have not idea why he doesn’t seal the screws into the stringers!! To me that is a failure waiting for water intrusion.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8m0sVshBrXQ.

:head:
don't like it. That tank is sitting in bilge water. That matting is holding water and whatever crap ends up in the bilge.
don't like it at all....

[Myfathersson]

Just to clarify - I am NOT considering foaming the tank in. Hazard of mentioning two independent thoughts in one paragraph :)

I am going to go with a poly tank - a Moeller FOLT5007 - https://www.oceanlinkinc.com/product/50-gallon-belly-shaped-tank-44-x-30-75-x-10-25-folt5007/ I have a gameplan of how I'm going to mount it, but waiting to detail the method until I have it in hand. I may wait to do the tank till spring. Not sure yet.

The foam I was referring to is the flotation foam down the side cavities either side of the stringers. If I'm gonna do it, best to do it while I've got it in 2 pieces. Just struggling with the decision either way.

[Slightly_Twisted]

:head:
don't like it. That tank is sitting in bilge water. That matting is holding water and whatever crap ends up in the bilge.
don't like it at all....

Just rewatched the video. Skunk you are 100% correct. I totally missed he didn’t have a sealed compartment. Thanks for correction!

[Myfathersson]

Took advantage of a light schedule and the lowest forecast temps for the next 10 days and jumped in the tyvek suit and ground down the sole today. It's now ready to be re-cored. (Any of the darker areas are just moist from the power wash post grinding).

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1qHQ2Q1r2Ip8Ae9zfUQOr-quE0_ZcmcQB

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1hrA5dZW48iWy91GYngCQyA7sLJsIwJBJ

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1az4DaH7sXoqrjs55NnPxqnMH3gniCgma

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=18HbNBoox1LVli0A7SW4y7qbN0raO5hcC

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1PC-_IgBbFjhh9j7OJv74RmZYBntLu0Oq

And before I was ready to start grinding (didn't wanna wake up any late sleeping neighbors) I got all the wing templates made from lightweight cardboard. And I scuffed up the new glass in the hull to receive the tabbing for the wings and bulkheads.

Have a company picnic this weekend so I'll infill smaller pockets of time with cutting the wings and bulkheads out from the sheet and prepping the pieces of 1/2" for the sole. Getting closer to slapping the two halves back together!

(Prayers that I measured accurately and they actually fit together after all this would be GREATLY appreciated LOL)

[Myfathersson]

Only had a part day today due to a picnic. So got out early this morning, turned on College Gameday and started cutting out the wings and bulkheads:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1hEhr3No0byDPq5OCd-BeMH_luvAXZjSR

And voila:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1c1ZmDcD_xR1EqNDzyoZXhzx6nZvx9MY6

Still need to finesse a few of the wings and make sure the tops are colinear across the stringers, and form the bottom edge of the bulkheads - decided it was a waste of cardboard to template those.

Then with the spare sheet of 3/4 ply out of the way I grabbed the 1/2 ply and started on the sole:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1mKSN7qgOZl_unrG5qutHsjFE8ycpl95G

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1A4wSp8rJUkGKcPehnW31FxJO6jEh5zpN

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1tSkCbCxugncDH0qEgNlIHnxTXcMHi3Cz

And then this evening after the picnic, I gulped a few ibuprofen thanks to the last roller coaster ride I took, and made up a kraft paper template of the foredeck. I'm debating using 3/4" for that for a couple reasons - #1 I have an extra sheet, but I look to be 1/2 sheet shy on 1/2", and #2 - I think it won't hurt with as unsupported as that area is. Going to sleep on it and decide tomorrow when I dig back in.

[scook]

You’ve been doing some nice looking work and your posts are excellent. It looks like you’re not a stranger to carpentry:clap:

[Myfathersson]

You’ve been doing some nice looking work and your posts are excellent. It looks like you’re not a stranger to carpentry:clap:

Thank you! And certainly not a stranger to carpentry.

[Myfathersson]

Got the rest of the core pieces I'm going to focus on before winter knocked out today. The foredeck - which I decided to do out of 1/2" cut from the kraft paper templates I made last night:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19I9kUKogdblwMaB4fwbKi40DmB4JLtTB

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=172_Ms8Q6BXTSnI3rl9gKmuH3FJGxrl2L

I'll have to get another sheet of 1/2" ply for the tank cover panel and the two gunnel fishing pole covers this winter.

Then massaged all the wings and bulkheads for a perfect fit. Those pieces are down in the workshop now and ready to get their rounded over tops and the limber passageways glassed over:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1xdeLRWSx__0enU9PAh_wddoDb3mcSBoI

Lesson learned on the stringers. I'll glass the top edge roundovers and then just carry my tabbing up the sides to overlap the edge of that skin. I'll tackle that evenings after work this week. With the sun being down by 8pm now, finally having tasks of a scale that I can do in the shop is nice.

Should be really easy to then cut the glass for the tabbing to have everything ready to go next weekend to tab in the bulkheads and glass the sole. It's time to start thinking about gel coat repair below the waterline, sanding and bottom painting - want to do that before I put her back on the trailer.

[Myfathersson]

Kind of slow progress of late. But I got the bulkhead and side supports glassed on their exposed edges.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10YPzQjjW8bWaFf_FE7y02AI7KQL70igA

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1_zJYx8r654-qEi_CNqEl7O8-YZ69mIoK

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1DxuxUD-sqrDSS3yr2gAbLtW6TwFwEl1z

And this weekend got them placed in the hull and bedded:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1LSbph-OEwsoh8ztDRn07UOjTc4wfg0cp

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19SjCRDpCusp-lw8GHErs3yT1gNx-zNsf

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1DIQsiwRGnbm2fyJj9E7bju18SBL8o1wQ

And then cut the sheets of 17oz biax for the coming glassing:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10moM_roau3kwnFsZslKIqUaz_TLLyQGH

This evening after work I laid those pieces against the individual plywood pieces and cut them to accurate form. Hopefully I can get 3 or 4 a night glassed the next few evenings after work. The sun going down by 8pm really limits evening progress!

Thanks for looking - Greg

[Myfathersson]

Six of the 11 secondary structural members are glassed in! 3 a night so far. The last five I should be able to knock out in one evening but my brother is coming in town for a music festival for a couple days so we'll see when I get those done.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1kv3Hh4bUWY3yYP56HXaC5db3XHxI5det

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1bMlXrLb2mbuP0KCvn9NP8zc5ZG4CZY7e

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1g0DpNUg_ZYosdJvEfaOt92vuHVQLa0mC

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1aED7Gb0QgzXQpRxiMi1Cdj5d7a1MRSYb

My Great Dane even got into the fun and got herself a little epoxy tag

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1mrj0uKv7BT8_z1JRGvQLnsWq6VbhEvpp

[Pipe_Dream]

I think it's tremendous. You're making great progress.

:clap:

[scook]

I think you’re going to end up with what the V20 could have been if they’d taken more care in the original builds. It’s a great hull and I love mine but the build could have been better executed and yours is going to be rock solid:sun:

[Sangster]

Read from the start today, nice! Any update?

I did see someone mention no foam from the factory in 1983 V20's? Is that true?

[Myfathersson]

Read from the start today, nice! Any update?

I did see someone mention no foam from the factory in 1983 V20's? Is that true?

I can't speak for the foam in other years, or variants - my '87 Center Console definitely had foam. Still undecided as to whether I will replace it.

Last Friday I finished off the glassing of the new structures in the hull:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1A1RVMLO7pYsznXUruc2h3uo_X-KKj-39

I still have to get in there and cut away the excess glass at the different shapes, and glass over the screw heads where I anchored the members to the stringers while their adhesive set up.

Then had my brother in town for a music festival last weekend, then had to trek up north for a funeral first part of the week so progress has been minimal. I spent a little time the last several evenings with the grinder and welder reworking the trailer so that once I finish the sole up this weekend I'll be ready to replace the bunks and slip the two halves together next weekend.

Cut off the forward bunk supports - they angled in too tightly and wouldn't have aligned to where I need them to lie. Found a nice little collection of wasp babies that thankfully weren't viable:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1_bQQCZtfd4Jnqf7P9ALIp4NxlsMkHtlm

And cut out the too short tongue member:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1_fnY59DzVglIspwJKM5jMvfICQ8Ffre5

And got the cross members all cleaned up to accept the new locations of the bunk supports:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1zF4lAv31QcvSN-D0Oh5vztZP5EvDYFSQ

And welded the bunk supports into their new positions:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14rv6aVuUgWvi2vd5J-5DHMOkx12thWSK

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Q4wyRP-vmsrfNdmsEioZVYY-r2rx68yG

Welds aren't the prettiest but for the first welds I've done in close to 10 years and on a new welder I'm pretty happy. They're solid.

All the bunk supports in place and the welds dressed:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1umWVc1Q-Rp-v0EPIg97PQJn0XJqQ6c3q

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14wasjSwsq_5FTQmVyoFrusF3tiz1_3l2

And the tongue ready for the new member:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Zvvbrl2JiKgLCZ-A7Pbf3dNG5tSMWRHf

A 72" long piece of 3x4x3/16" tube steel:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1TaJ-072qV2bCWCNOh7SwJnUGLV3fYIks

I guess I didn't snap any photos down in the shop last night of the prep on that piece - drilled the holes for the hydraulic brake coupler, the cross passage holes for wiring, drain hole, passage hole for the brake line, and tapped the ground connection hole. Here it is mostly welded in place:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1hOVPuI1VgfPnBKCv5czE9ED75Gn-Bfmb

I need to jack up the trailer and get it flipped at least on its side if not completely upside down so I can weld the bottom of the connections - I could NOT get a bead overhead. If I can't get it flipped I'll fabricate a piece of 3/16" plate to join the three members and lap weld that in place. For the moment I laid on a coat of Rustoleum primer and called it a night:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1FnecIyK6z6besNtmnjwOEjiQleSKd8UV

Tomorrow and Sunday will be gluing the plywood pieces to the sole and glassing them in. I also need to glass up the two plywood panels that sit atop the stringers near the rear for the batteries and oil tank. Then I'll pick up the new bunk wood and get the carpet that's sitting on the floor of my spare bedroom on. I ordered the hot dipped lag bolts from McMaster Carr today - even with shipping still going to be less than half the cost of grabbing them at Home Depot or Lowes. If the glass work scheduled all goes smoothly I may start on wet sanding and buffing the hull. I've got a gallon of gel coat for the scratch and chip repair that I need to use before November so I at least need to find out if I can bring the existing gel back to life and color match that restored gel so I can do those repairs and I want to get the new stainless thru hulls installed while the hull is split instead of working through the access holes to torque them down, so the hull needs to be semi complete cosmetically.

There's a long long list of stuff left to be done before I can even think about finding a new motor or rebuilding the '89 Yammy. Winter will be long, if summer ever lets go of its hold, so still focused on getting the hull ship shape before I'm forced indoors for a spell.

[SkunkBoat]

Read from the start today, nice! Any update?

I did see someone mention no foam from the factory in 1983 V20's? Is that true?

only foam is around the fuel tank on 83

[Myfathersson]

Hallelujah! All the recoring is done! Saturday morning I cracked the whip and got rolling about 7:30am. Started mixing up some peanut butter and gluing down the new cores on the sole and clamping it in place with as many clamps as I could, 80# bags of Quikrete and some screws through from the underside:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1cYTQoPfyNElO9iY-HgEsW5piZghEAVmc

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1G-IUxLPerhWm4YnjqPdnZISZNpsLQWXa

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1OREfa4uDr7Pvyq3BLCQAo4UTz4nlnoaM

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1tRhL8Jc57AAiTFQRicAIp1bd929f3O6p

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1IyBl5JuvBJiFiNxA1vntecI7A7HbolAp

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1_Yf2tHJEGSMEJZ-MvYKyU5L98hro5vN6

Then once that was rigid enough to remove the clamps and concrete, I set to glassing. I used 1708 but it would've made more sense to order more 17oz Biax and use less epoxy:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1UbFgdNm8_2pqdez8sdKIOK7p36iV0Rh7

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=16EP3A3vAY-Jmr0PICnR4P_ju46cZZsSE

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Lng2H-iM8Bu9ZjCD_DOxNkjSoUQhvUNS

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1tQQp5mDDeNn6FR1sazPr8kDbbMrle_qR

All in all it took 11 hours and 6 gallons of epoxy, and in record high heat (I think we hit 98) I cooked a couple batches of epoxy, one thickened, one laminating. I panicked on the laminating batch and ended up with a section of glass on the starboard sole that didn't penetrate, so I went back tonight and drilled some holes and with a 2oz syringe was able to pump in enough to permeate the glass and adhere it to the ply. Then I was able to finish off catching the fasteners I needed to cover and some exposed corners I didn't like in the previous work in the hull:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1dQvOSD_2iwGCqmFgGCOvlJQsXu4Pxl19

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1B1OVlNwMC0_MC6vK9EFV3upGHy2NpX07

Now it's decision time - since the 2 halves are essentially ready for a test fit it's time to decide if I'm foaming or not. If I do foam it's gotta happen between the test fit and the final reassembly of the 2 halves. Tomorrow night I'll try and get a firm idea of how many cubic feet I need if I choose to foam. And since I've got to let funding catch back up it might be a little bit before the final decision and the reassembly happens. I've made my milestone of being ready to reassemble before winter so that's a load off my shoulders. Stay tuned!

[phatdaddy]

Fill the cavities with ping pong balls

Saw it in a Donald Duck comic book!!

[Pipe_Dream]

Looking awesome.

[oteps]

Fill the cavities with ping pong balls

Saw it in a Donald Duck comic book!!

I used to roadrace motorcycles. One race organization said we could only have a fuel tank that holds 4.5 gallons for endurance races. We filled the tank with 4.5 gallons of gas and the rest ping pong balls.

[Myfathersson]

Work is still progressing. With the drop in temps it's going to slow down quite a bit. But I got the welding on the trailer done, had a friend help me flip it over since my overhead welding skills are...lacking...

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1AYGiZbQVSnqZ2BewZCGEr3ZhPEmGUFNN

Then my neighbor helped me flip it back over. Carpeted up the new bunks and installed them:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17OF6kWwtZxTiHN_K4nlKEJSukuqH-2aC

Started stripping the rust off the two rims that need new tires by electrolysis:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1xsvSBtueo6i5vSfbo3vrwg0u8nf_Vvbn

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1BtC2dxf2AkWHlH_ChOpwYC1IxyryN9ca

And cut down the winch stand so that it can get extended to the proper height once I put the hull back on the trailer:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Y1YQKXXqbjhs0BQjutxLAnBO-eZ-XqXq

And once the new coat of paint was dryed I put the step treads back on the wheel wells:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1bouQLmatDbNsaXi4AXKG2RI2c99-DMYu

And started tackling the sanding of the hull.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1BV2_vD-lZ5reid43n2gdMeujobcYtPT9

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1NK2SeQjnA6SS3MXo-geW2h6wHNbUUFjz

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1CpwwAetvmzVfjsdXs9sid114btunWYer

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1EUacmtht2HXqEsRGX_wnWSAka8aZAZi_

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=15UE0KByzGlZo816Td5OHI-5PFeOqiYGf

I wish I had one of these when I was a kid sanding down the bottom of dads boat every year to apply new antifouling paint:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1H8YNygg8V49dcdSy9tyXmbj0EVsLQYIT

And if all the hull sanding hadn't been enough I trimmed up the tank hatch opening excess glass from recoring the sole, and cleaned off the back of the gunnel strips and the tank hatch so they can be recored this winter:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1MJM_4i_R_NmaPAmoRhSHCCAAiGB7L4y3

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1sY4O9Jf2Tx0sGDb8lJqkHYZuSWPdUSrg

A resupply shipment of epoxy is arriving tomorrow, I was down to only slow hardener which with the cessation of 90 degree temps made for a dead stop in any patching progress. I've got a few spots on the keel that I want to build up - it's obvious the previous owners beached her quite often, and fair out the gouges and scratches across the hull. Then I want to seal up the glass everywhere the gelcoat wore thru with a coat of epoxy before I prime and paint.

Given the new trend in temps it's looking like, barring an extended warm front, I'll put the two halves back together for the winter and pull them back apart, foam and paint in the spring. I decided that the gel coat on the gunnels is too thin so the whole shabang is going to get painted.

Next weekend I'll get the two new tires on and slip the hull back on the trailer, flip the cap, and pray that it all goes together the way it's supposed to.

My to-do list keeps growing but at least the BIG tasks have been completed.

[Myfathersson]

Well seasons change so time to button her up for the winter.

Got the battery trays glassed in place. More on those later...

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1_wWAY3_wRqHQe8GHMNswneEtfWstXHJg

And got the hull onto the refurbished trailer:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10lXMktDyNS1Vy2NwqwLirs6O15eUykRz

Will have to remake the forward bunk supports. Keel was sitting too low and only on the forward 1/2 of the bunk. I shimmed them up to where they will set. That'll do until she's ready to hit the road.

And sorted out the appropriate length for the winch stand and welded her back up:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Ftkr2WnXVM9ksGhc7RwDyEhG4X8LyfEz

Then early this morning hooked up the cap:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1cjGEfYcTg1JeCvCHORLzC2nDIgiWSuDY

And flipped it right side up:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1w_gcJnE4bNY3a_DP0Dbe2fbYq6T8zjRx

Lifted it onto some concrete blocks so I could wash it down:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1JQkuAl67TiMohRwnE7Euy9fD7YOcR8sB

And hoisted it to the sky:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1u88ucdqsLDMbjTQa25inl7ketkP4zwjL

And just like that they were one again:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1AlyA7iNcmyWwxUPAk4SH_pf2F2PogMBE

Marrying the two back together went 100x smoother than I feared it might. Trailer lined right up, only had to shift fore and aft a couple times to get aligned, no side to side jockeying, and the lip snapped over fairly easy, it only took a little persuading with a light pry bar. Except for those pesky battery trays.

I matched the original size and placement of the trays to a tee. However, since I built my stringers 3/4" taller than the factory built theirs in order to minimize the thickness of adhesive needed, the trays are 3/4" higher than the original ones were. So the transom isn't set down tight. Thankfully the plan is to remove the cap again in the spring to finish things up, so I can simply trim the trays in place and re-glass that edge and should be right as rain.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1mDUNH5ulCN8OaApU7N8cHa9z8Qc4JhnT

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1vNQYqrnz9vCUd2RsNWB1bbHN1xgkNoJG

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=19-TSzebw0I-8ocSoOemWlFzCNTllIuP1

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1UgGRj49WUpVJ9qExqqI9OM98o5VjMNv5

Added some additional "rafters" to the lifting frame which will stay in place until the cap is permanently married to the hull to give good support to the winter cover:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1RR-5U0hs-66RXudUs44JIawh79wvpvon

And tucked her in for the long lonely winter:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1bBuF6bwr-9Zte56gKvlkHsGh2uEaewzX

Tomorrow I'm going to enjoy the first weekend day without a pressing task and kick back watching some football.

[phatdaddy]

Nice!!!! You also picked a great weekend to watch Michigan.

[Pipe_Dream]

:clap::clap::clap:

Nice work!

[SkunkBoat]

:clap:

[Slightly_Twisted]

Nice!!!!:clap::clap:

[Crusty]

Nice boat. I just got a 1989 20 fisherman. I’m starting the same thing as you. We will have to stay in touch. I have the same motor as you. It’s a lot of work, but also a lot of fun. When I figure out how to post pictures, I’ll send you some.
Keep up the good work.

[Myfathersson]

Nice boat. I just got a 1989 20 fisherman. I’m starting the same thing as you. We will have to stay in touch. I have the same motor as you. It’s a lot of work, but also a lot of fun. When I figure out how to post pictures, I’ll send you some.
Keep up the good work.

It's DEFINITELY a lot of work, but tis a labor of love! Start a new thread and document your progress! Eager to see how someone else attacks it. Haven't touched my OB since I covered the ship up for the winter. I think I resolved to replace it. Just too much salt to contend with. Probably going to try and find a reasonably priced 150 Yamaha 4 stroke once the hull is squared away.

[brisboats]

:clap::clap: I just read this thread from the start. Impressed with your skills , passion and ingenuity! I cannot wait to you start this again in the Spring you will have a new boat when done and one that will endure longer than the original.
Brian

[nymack66]

:clap::clap::clap::clap: Wow amazing project, looking at your tools and your setup, and style no doubt you are a PRO, no shop I know can produce this kind of craftsmanship and quality, my hat off to you my friend..Thanks for sharing.

[Sangster]

Any new progress on this restoration?

[Myfathersson]

Slow progress this season. Between the impact of the pandemic and a couple medical issues I've gotta devote resources to I don't anticipate getting much done in 2020. I did decide that the engine is not worth attempting to rebuild. The salt infiltration was too excessive. I've spent the last several days dissembling to throw the good bits on eBay and recycle the castings. I finally got the heater core replaced in my truck (started in January but got side burnered due to health) so I can hook up and uncover her this weekend then pull the cap back off to finish up some odds and ends glass work in the hull. If funding can be pulled together I'll get foam to refill the side bays and finish marrying the two halves together. Gas tank will wait till next season. I've got paint on hand to paint the hull and sole so that will be the goal for this season if I can get the foaming accomplished.

[Destroyer]

Slow progress this season. Between the impact of the pandemic and a couple medical issues I've gotta devote resources to I don't anticipate getting much done in 2020. I did decide that the engine is not worth attempting to rebuild. The salt infiltration was too excessive. I've spent the last several days dissembling to throw the good bits on eBay and recycle the castings. I finally got the heater core replaced in my truck (started in January but got side burnered due to health) so I can hook up and uncover her this weekend then pull the cap back off to finish up some odds and ends glass work in the hull. If funding can be pulled together I'll get foam to refill the side bays and finish marrying the two halves together. Gas tank will wait till next season. I've got paint on hand to paint the hull and sole so that will be the goal for this season if I can get the foaming accomplished.

You might want to consider using pool noodles for foam. You can get them for a buck each at the Dollar store(s). Cut them to the length you need for each void. Nice thing is that you can buy them as you need them as the work progresses and as funds permit. :beer:

[RABBITFISH]

Definitely enjoying the pictures and progress. I have the same model and it is great to be able to see what is under the deck. Just curious have you an estimate as to what you have spent so far for the rebuild? It is getting to be a question these days of rebuilding or buying another one..

[Myfathersson]

Time to catch this thread up. I opened her back up the beginning of July. Pulled out the mothballs and pulled the cap back off:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1BJa_AJ6rYOrvCPh_S76qpsWbfUtbaqoP

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1-kb6cxBSe8tX__XQ67CfozlcaZDNn4qA

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=12GGHz-WyRFvFy-KsL-hHryhp5s-9Mf1-


Started off piloting the holes where the foredeck hardware would be mounting so that I didn't lose the locations while fairing the area. Dixie was an eager helper:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1M8eEMEP51L3Og3_xeWXpHG6hagrRqbOA


Spent some time polishing the oxidation off the hardware I was reusing. Here is a side by side of the bow chocks before and after spending some time on the buffing wheel:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Jc0JIfNkrjxZDkYGvXJx1L3dgsN-Fv75

Man...I need to wet sand and buff my shop table...but I digress.


Decided the replace the original cleats with something a little more modern looking (and which are less likely to impale me):

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1B54B4gnHVwL5D0hwGE7TYDUYZpTzskbC


Worked on patching the holes and other scars on the foredeck:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1S8PbEgL5iLFH0LosoveMOprv1d7kAvRT


And while I was working with glass I worked on the myriad of holes at the back of the cap - speakers, rod holders, poorly located holes for controls, etc.:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1rvZvLkyJ_5VwIZ5Htki_uMc5Ppy3vdbN

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Dvib_gFG_vgg6egD5WNFvUIlWzqnGoC3

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1tnMcwwlwLVUV3YZP0nhhkPmt7Q_5I6ae


And fabricated and glassed in a new anchor shelf:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1yy67kUpt-AOF5tqiVfBAQ2y26R2iWd9u


Guess I didn't save any of the pics of fairing, and sanding, and fairing, and sanding, and more sanding and oh my lord am I restoring a boat or converting epoxy and glass to dust... I did note that the green color of TotalFair is a dead ringer for the Seafoam Green of the 1970's Cruisers Inc tri-hull my family had during my childhood years. Kind of poetic.


With the fairing completed I primed the foredeck, anchor tray, battery trays and the bilge:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1xh6Bt-uv3sl0y-jK3d4HD_gRcaCzMfGh

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=17waLZLlysuPYj_t9Q993SW8Po32qZuCh

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=15TTkqA7tfMOGDV8CL18_kea-ssicxMQa

More to follow! - Greg

[Myfathersson]

With the priming completed, I laid out how I wanted the nonskid on the foredeck. I elected to hold the nonskid about 3/8" off the bowrail mounting plates which came really close to the minimum curve radius of the 3M fineline tape of 1½", and then left clear areas under everything else using that minimum curve radius. I cut templates out of thin cardboard (like notebook backer), then took a few days of vacation so I could ignore my phone while painting:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Kz0EE1S3gJBmGPcrReX83p9xSgJ9JElo

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1OF4zo2Fzznh9k1tj7ZLceVAS_h0Ye158

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1u43dKMwvYY5EvNmCqIDFZeBBqtZ9OkZn

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1zuhhJPX_bduI2RC9OgGnUw3lQOquUOLU

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1XVHVMtHh9CRL3qB19GRY8_9WxLtUugHj


I'm using the iBoats Tractor Paint formula and rolling it on. With the layout done I laid down the first coat and coated it with nonskid granules as I progressed:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ewRktGTIt4CTRklAQLKYOx72lbOE38MF

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10smgIncJvjR5W4wTxVq5_7Lb2_W3m1oU


And once the paint had solidified sufficiently I pulled up the masking:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1uAj5uj7JRMKMfgu1P2x7Tu24H1xLGHz8


The following morning I swept up the excess nonskid for reuse and laid down the first finish coat. In hindsight I should have vacuumed up the excess the evening before before removing the masking and applied a coat to lock in the granules right then, as there were enough loose particles still, despite brushing and vacuuming multiple times, that I had particles migrate into the smooth areas. I was able to rectify all those with wet sanding but would have been nicer to not have to worry about that.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10trSHwPjyAb6PEmUqK7KYgxf0CbH5GkH

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Eq6XW3ig3wVa8yS9TrCK7Ffo76xRr_8Y


Four days of painting and then let it rest to get nice and hard.

More to come! - Greg

[Myfathersson]

While the paint cured up my brother traveled down to Louisville from Toledo to lend a hand for my next endeavor - FOAM!

Did my calculations and arrived at needing 47cf of foam and that worked out perfect to get a 40cf kit and an 8cf kit from US Composites. Set the cans out in the sun first thing Saturday morning to let them warm up and around noon we poured the first lift.

I guess it got a little too warm in the sun as the first cell, pouring in half the calculated amount resulted in a massive overfill. When I trimmed off the excess found large voids in the middle due to overheating. But we adjusted and figured out the best method for us to use.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1WK7m7A6Ke_8ubJm0oVG8H9Etg-myURA1

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1E9_7E2ilY18xvAnAKh67uMkLHNs6aZp-

Later in the week I went back with a handsaw and trimmed the foam down flush with the stringer tops and then coated the cut surfaces with a little thickened epoxy for good measure.


Then began installing the hardware on the foredeck. Since I wanted to through bolt all of that hardware and not rely on just screwing into the wood coring, that was the impetus for the prep work and painting on just the forececk and not the cap as a whole, before the 2 halves will get mated back together:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1zFj6Kv3lHAONXMu60jtp_hlLYbPlPqws

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1yIf2j8CYOrWBQf5sgd9i6f87wS9JGoq_

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=12j522bWpBqcoKUXKZbzQGhpxhuuFDZSx

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1M8vOJqPWjcqrp_LqmgpltzkxGjSNe_Hp

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1LFcmsFzE_Q7U_Oi58nWk-SQ5rxFZHtjE

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1c9GhFALZJluqOD9rPeYfMuWnwS7o_cJn

I'm really please with how the non skid contours around the hardware, I think it's a really slick detail. I'm also pleased with the finish of the paint with only rolling - no tipping or wet sanding or bufffing. It's got a light orange peel like surface but it's glossy as hell and easy to clean. I don't want to wax it until I blend the rest of the cap and sole paint in with this area, so washing the bird dropping and whatnot off it every couple days until it's recapped and can be covered with a tarp again.

More to come! - Greg

[Myfathersson]

Now you might expect the next post to be the cap being married back to the hull...but it's not.

I hadn't figured out my fuel tank plan up until this point, but I decided it was time to solidify that portion before I put the cap back on. In modeling the target tank I decided that while I probably COULD get the tank in through the hatch...it's going to be whole hell of a lot easier to do BEFORE the cap goes on. So, since the stock market and economy have been doing better than I feared they might back in the early spring (I work in the restaurant industry so...), I felt comfortable in ordering the fuel tank, the Oceanlink FOLT5007 I mentioned earlier in this thread. It's a 50 gallon poly belly tank. Less capacity than the original tank but more than enough for my anticipated use. And most importantly it fits within the dimensional requirements of the original tank compartment!

With the tank settled I began formulating a plan for supporting it. I gridded out the hull line from the stringer top, and modeled the hull in Fusion360, as well as the tank. After locating the tank at the height I felt was appropriate I then created a platform which matches the tank profile. That platform will rest on a riser assembly which spans the innermost set of chines. The riser will get epoxied and glassed to the hull, the platform will get epoxied to the riser and glassed to the stringers on either side. There's 1½" of gap between the bulkheads fore and aft of the platform so any moisture that does happen to get down in there can find it's way all the way down to the bilge and out.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1xx366X0OzmvPAy8RafAVu5Mid6dAh1Lt


At the ends of the tank I will wedge in a few strips of 2" insulating foam to lock the tank in between the 2 bulkheads. I'm fabricating the hold downs which will provide the rest of the rigid mount from a piece of 18ga 304 stainless salvaged from a bar renovation so the tank should be well anchored, fully supported, and last the remainder of my lifetime.

Here's the riser assembly that I started yesterday morning:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=10iJsY1kUZiIlPoMYEaJ_VdlNiGXdcL_j


And the platform I glued up this morning:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1eOAy4zLZuG4zs6hwjWMnkts-YjJCfb8S


The platform will receive (2) 4" diameter holes matching the tank design which aren't cut yet.

And here's cutting up the stainless for the hold downs:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=141h02O3bGt_VZ25zh0Xb7y9V4q0w4R_o

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1eZD-M4XSkP94ykP1GUpDD54f7Kn49ibp


The flux core stainless wire will arrive at the end of this coming week but no rush on that as the tank has a minimum 3 week lead time - should be plenty of time to get all the glass work done on the riser and platform and get them mounted into the hull, and finally weld the gussets on the brackets.

And THAT catches the thread up! I've gotten a lot more accomplished this summer than I thought I would.

Hope you enjoy! Thanks - Greg

[Pipe_Dream]

Fine work! :clap:

[Myfathersson]

Fine work! :clap:

Thank you!

[phatdaddy]

Looks good, i know expansion and contraction is an issue on poly tanks, be sure to factor that in.

Keep up the good work

[Myfathersson]

Looks good, i know expansion and contraction is an issue on poly tanks, be sure to factor that in.

Keep up the good work

Thanks for the reminder phatdaddy - 3% expansion once fuel is introduced. That's about 1.3" on the length, 0.9" on the width, and 0.37" on the height. All easy to accommodate. Might need to install the hold down brackets after fueling to manage the gain in the length since the threaded inserts are not symmetrical about the axis. Only drawback to that is I can't through bolt both pairs to the stringers once the sole is in place, only the forward bracket will be accessible on the back side. That's a minor issue though, as the brackets closest to the center are the accessible pair which should result in less stress on the rear most brackets. Only other adjustment is I'll use the hot knife to trim the 2" foam blocking at front and rear down.

[Blue_Runner]

Amazing work. Not only on the boat but the documentation, quality photos, etc. Pipe summed it up in 2 words - fine work! Nice job and thank you for posting up this really cool rebuild thread. Can't wait to see your next move, and the final product!
:beer:

[Myfathersson]

Amazing work. Not only on the boat but the documentation, quality photos, etc. Pipe summed it up in 2 words - fine work! Nice job and thank you for posting up this really cool rebuild thread. Can't wait to see your next move, and the final product!
:beer:

Thank you! Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel!

I've been doing additional thinking and reading about the fuel tank. My platform design wasn't going to result in a sealed compartment but I've decided the platform does need to be fully sealed to the stringers & bulkheads so that any fuel leaks can't foul the bilge. Not a big deal, just need to epoxy up a few pieces of glass as right angles to bridge at the ends - the sides were always intended to seal to the stringers for support.

I'm still contemplating if I need to add vents and a blower though. I'm leaning towards it'd be a good idea.

[Myfathersson]

Less than favorable weather this weekend so all I got done outside was some sanding to prep for priming and applying a coat of TotalFair to scratches and pock marks on the transom and keel.

But I was able to tackle one lingering project in the basement after I wrapped up glassing all the surfaces of the new tank platform. I went to work recoring the fuel compartment cover. A new piece of 1/2" MDO laid in with peanut butter. Then I filled the gap between the edge of the plywood and the lip of the cover with a blend of thickened epoxy, milled fiber and 1/4" chopped strand before wetting out a layer of 17oz biax over the back side. I am hoping that this mixture will allow me to countersink the screws which secure the compartment directly into the newly reinforced edge. :sly:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1YDciL-pIFQVHjp-ffCmhnNKn5CV6dYmB

The piece of ply covered with mylar tape sticking out the side is just a form to let me build up the edge where a hole had been cut in the edge of the cover for the original install of the cables to the console. Once the back side is set up I'll patch that glass on the topside and create a new hole with a proper dam around it for the console cables that ISN'T in the compartment cover.

Up next may very well be removing the hull from the trailer again and applying paint. Weather just has to cooperate. Stay tuned!

[Myfathersson]

It's Derby Weekend here in Louisville and the weather is freaking fantastic - 80° days and 0% chance of rain today thru Tuesday. So painting is on tap.

Over the past few weeks I've made some new hull supports. I wasn't overly fond of the stacked concrete blocks I used last summer so I took some scrap treated 2x6's I had and grabbed a couple 4x4's and 2x4's and made up these pylons:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=12UPzdQyDxUJYN6SAf0k_y526SwhyV9pg

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1mGYE8OsR_gZF9iFYJZB_GNBeJm3q0Y9K


And then earlier this week I set to the oh so fun chore of jacking up the hull and shimmying the trailer out from 'neath her.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1OMTkhkJoGPslUrdccbFpNYesk56TWNHS


Then set to fairing and sanding the hull to clean up where I sanded thru the old antifouling paint and in spots gelcoat, and the myriad of scratches from the PO beaching her regularly.

On the less dry days I cleaned up all the hatches, faired them and set the non-skid in a coat of epoxy to simplify the painting process.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1hyAIGZLq8Nu0XnY8tnuC7Tgo0HS2Vdwo


The PO also mounted a swim ladder to the transom and put one of the screw holes right through the E in the HIN. I tried to dremel a new E in but it never looked very good. So I modeled up a negative of the HIN in Fusion360 and printed it on my 3D printer, packed the mold full of epoxy and milled fiber with a backer of 1708 and put it under a vacuum for an hour to yield this:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1qtKym0BwQGqsyOOcNmpfNHjsoNpQNM73


Lost the islands in a few of the digits but they read well enough that it works. Cut the old HIN out and glued the new casting in and faired it last night.


And finally this afternoon, after wrapping up a late post lunch meeting, I came home and set to spraying the primer:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1F_8o-I6kfcv4J13awdC1HRBzh0DSCeJ1

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1UVaVAELOeDc8dgyCo_5JmV0vNaFDlew9


Tomorrow morning I'll wet sand and start spraying the finish. With the fantastic weather I'll get 6 coats on her and be ready to install the fuel tank when it gets delivered next week. Just gotta order the new hoses and clamps to make final connections from the deck drains to the thru hulls for assembling the two halves.

Thanks for looking! - Greg

[Myfathersson]

Productive weekend! I sprayed a total of 4 coats of paint. My bodywork filling and fairing wasn't perfect, but from 10 feet away I can't pick out the issues, and even at 5 foot I have to know where to look. Plus, except for the 3' long scar along the port side, all of the issues are below the waterline, or under where the engine will mount on the transom, so it's a win in this amateur's book.

It's so nice seeing a glossy shine on her - she didn't have a lick of that when she came home.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1ZmDsS5tdl9RdnlWBldO5ewce2UiEY3iX

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1buHtGjeCt2krd5-_l_kcQk1aLxH_W4v3

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Yq3AKLpsZQ7MB5-R_0jqTEzvbRfW1UrA


I did have one sag starboard side just fore of the ice box thru hull but it's hardly noticeable.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Nw92ehJIYbqjZXOn__XY2ZxdEP-aIHNd


I should have sourced acetone by the pail...

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Ua3Sp1LSNqruN3XXwczonvpPBhquzVmv


I used a variant of the iBoats "tractor paint" process. Rustoleum Oil Base Gloss Enamel, Acetone to reduce, and Majic Enamel Hardener from Tractor Supply in a 8:6:1 ratio. Each coat took 120 oz of mixed product, sprayed through a Harbor Freight Pressure Pot HVLP gun, fed by (2) 21gal compressors to yield a theoretical 11.6 cfm supply rate, just above the 10 cfm spec'd by HF for the gun. While spraying the hull I also coated all the hatch covers which all had coarse non-skid. That really took some serious application to cover. I bet 30-40 oz of each coat was sprayed on the non-skid. I sprayed the primer with a gravity feed HVLP gun and decided that the $60 pressure pot version was a good investment to let me correctly aim the spray for the keel and chines - I was right :)


Now, since the hull is off the trailer, I'm setting up to replace 4 of the bunk supports on the inner pair that were too short in my original setup. I've gotta grab a length of 2x4 tube and weld those on over the next couple weeks before my brother travels back down to assist with getting her back on the trailer and setting the cap back in place. So I rolled the trailer up onto the patio to where the welder can reach the outlet, and braced the bunks where they need to be, cut out the front 2 and made up a template for the new supports out of a scrap 2x4. Once the front set is tacked on, I'll cut out the mid supports and tack those in.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1vnRAYeOXNFpKe64U8-D1ZcJTxm-KKUCp


Fuel tank should be delivered this week so installing that will be the next big ticket endeavour.

Thanks for looking!

[Giorgio]

Looking GOOOOOD!!!!:clap::clap:

[Pipe_Dream]

Really nice! Where'd you source your fuel tank? It seems like someone somewhere is always looking for one.

[Myfathersson]

Really nice! Where'd you source your fuel tank? It seems like someone somewhere is always looking for one.

Ocean Link - THIS (https://www.oceanlinkinc.com/product/50-gallon-belly-shaped-tank-44-x-30-75-x-10-25-folt5007/) 50 gal poly belly tank. Waiting for updated tracking info from the manufacturer presently. I've worked up a support platform to anchor it that there's some detail on a few posts/pages back. As I install it I'll try and highlight what I've done.

[Blue_Runner]

Great job, nice progress. She's really looking good. You'll be on the water soon! Can't wait to see splashdown.

[Myfathersson]

Since my last post I've hit my milestones for this season. Had a stretch of rain (not from Sally) that kept me in the shop for a number of days. Took that time to finally wrap up rebuilding part of the basement bathroom and laundry room to install a large stainless steel prep sink. But also fired up the mill and machined the slots in the tank mounting brackets.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1A76TUGyjvWJBTRx-w390MR14c84yIzgT


Then when the weather cleared back up I loaded the flux core 308 stainless wire into the welder and welded the gussets on the brackets. Clearly I'm not a seasoned welder, but they are solid and I was able to hammer the brackets back to flat. This was the best of the welds, I won't show the worst LOL.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1xumvnF3wFI4yAQHIqBvU1SZSYAvPlRzN


Then spent a bit of time waiting on my tank to arrive. While waiting my new hoses arrived. Fill, vent, and the hose for the deck drains and the ice chest. I used defender.com and was pleased with their service. I had also ordered a spool of 18ga jacketed duplex wire to wire up the nav lights prior to reassembling to make it easier and that was missing from the box. Once alerted they shipped the replacement out fairly quick.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=13Y6YuqZIK8BrpMsWi-qERlH9QBA4_n4I


Then got to installing the thru hulls, stern eyes and a replacement drain fitting for the ice chest.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1MShey1qj3VHl1xd3kgmFI8_FVRdgETtY

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=16cWSNE8bp69YmeYYoRFjNG-WkBRWO4AX

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1YIlvaVwchIpsutBjFTMkWZIVuPlL6tL9


I could not find that drain fitting at any marine supplier. I ended up finding it through a restaurant equipment supplier, and cheaper by 1/3 than anything I was seeing at marine vendors. Just a little tip.

Then last weekend I jacked the hull up and slid the trailer back under. Oops - forgot to take any pics of the 4 bunk supports I replaced to get the bunks in perfect alignment for this hull. Sorry.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1HLwiQKCd3tR3pFDKPxDXF92n9GVK0nwP


And just like that she was mobile again.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1Z1e0Lv84OHPZikBbo3w7smojnOkhSDHF


All that done and I was STILL waiting on the tank. So I had my neighbor give me a hand maneuvering the console back up the basement steps last Saturday night, and started sanding and planning out the console rehab on Sunday.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1HxPHM-93Ek14qeO6wyFTfhbVW4ZOZ-gT


Monday about 10am I got a call from R&L Carriers scheduling my tank delivery for Tuesday! About 15 minutes after the end of the delivery window the driver called and said he was 5 minutes out. I was a happy camper.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1hyoEwDosAjV3jerinFvkA-nJnxu-DG7p


I wasn't impressed with the hassle involved in actually getting the tank. The tracking number I was provided was invalid and the vendor just kept telling me that the manufacturer was looking into it. For two weeks. And all communication was initiated by me. I was ready to throw in the towel and sent an email the Friday before delivery giving them an ultimatum. Then R&L called on Monday. In the end it worked out, but I would be a bit hesitant to use them again.

With the tank in hand I was able to dry fit my platform and the tank and verify everything mated up nicely and would clear what it needed to.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1GB6PVRNNbMqXZxoZQkBVO43haexylVMi


First I peanut buttered and glassed in the PVC bilge passage and then the riser assembly.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1cjBMDn_tEOv8fCMGQXCHyys6Vt60zo4T


Then peanut buttered the platform to the riser, and tabbed the platform to the stringers and bulkheads.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1obSC_VOItVuKQzqIodkfcROMZ3bWT2Ss

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1g8PFlEgIF6CYBdvoU6Y32pnbhUhgLNCD


The short ends were done with angles that I prefabricated, due to the fact that I was low on 3/4" ply and didn't want to by another whole sheet just to complete this. The tank rests on plywood cored glass, these tabs only seal the compartment to keep any liquid that may end up in there from making it's way to the inaccessible void under the platform or, if the PVC passage were to fail, to the bilge.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1EHVjmiP0oVymX0e8s1KMIpGSlXGABHRu


Then since the last of the hull glasswork was DONE I cracked a beer and admired my work. :beer:

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1lqAIKjjcsGDUXwsqf66Gab3kbQaGzihA


Well, cracked the beer too soon. Halfway through the beer I decided to toss a finishing layer of 17oz biax over the platform. No pic though as evidently summer left and the sun now sets really freaking early. By the time I got my hands clean and everything put away it was too dark for a pic without flash and my phone was too low to let me use the flash :pic:


Next up...the two halves get reunited!

[Myfathersson]

Well this was supposed to happen next weekend when my brother comes down to visit and lend a hand. But I hoisted up the cap to make sure everything fit together correctly before he traveled down. It went together so smoothly I opted to crack out the PL adhesive and bed down the cap today.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1V7jTyepQ9RGSPOWSu4jjbXSKGtm3td1g

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1EX5iyaYNwqrNztJ8I9TbrowMO-XRouSQ


And once I got the 4200 run around the entire joint (I hate caulking, and I really hate caulking upside down...) I stripped the 2x4's of the lifting structure out of the cap and set up a new tarp support system and got the cover back on her before it rains tomorrow.

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1lMARKhv37OVKjpCt2CKxlaHVkRfEbARV


Next weekend when my brother is down I'll have him assist with breaking the gantry down and storing it until I acquire a new outboard. I'm sure my neighbors will appreciate the change of scenery!

https://drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=1oAybxon1jJTYSpon5Y76vGMN8qAzATaY


It's been 427 days since I removed the cap and began stripping out foam and exposing the rotten structure. It's been a hell of a lot of work but really no one task was all that hard. Expensive yes, but hard no! But it sure feels good to have her looking like a real boat again!

Hopefully I can get the cutting I need to do on the console done in the next few weeks and get that back into the basement to be able to glass and fair it over the winter. Then when I pull the cover back off again and get the sanding done on the sole, I can paint the sole and console together. Still plenty left to do but nothing happens overnight.

Thanks for looking - Greg

[Giorgio]

WOW you sure are doing one HELLAVA job!!!!
BE SAFE!!!

[Myfathersson]

Thank you Giorgio!

[phatdaddy]

Super work, good job sticking with it. It will be well worth it

[Myfathersson]

Thanks phatdaddy!

[randlemanboater]

You are doing an awesome job on this, thanks for sharing with us.

[FL Bill]

I am new to the Wellcraft boats and this site but I just finished your thread. A lot of work went in to this build. I was surprised to see you use wood, but it looked like you sealed it pretty well!


I also wondered if you have drains in the tank well?



And lastly what is the status of this build? Your update on this post was in Sep...? Hope all is well.


Thanks for sharing and I have to say I am a bit envious of you mad skills!:love:


I do think the aluminum trailer would have been better to add wood bunks than a steel trailer, but being down here by the GOM I see steel rust to fast.



Again, thanks!:clap::beer:

[RABBITFISH]

Yes we are all really looking forward to any updates. Hope all is well..