Has it ever been done?? Well it’s about to happen.

[3 Squids]

So since I sold my last V I’ve been looking for another one to tinker with. I’ve wanted to start from scratch and build a boat exactly like I want it. I’ve compiled some parts and the main thing I was missing was a hull. I have a console, motor, poly fuel tank, t-top, leaning post, rigging etc. I have a pretty good start. I’ve been looking for a V and either they are way to nice for what I want to do or too far away.

Well I compromised and I think you all will like what I have going on. Technically I’m not building a V-20 center console. Instead I came across a 1994 V-21. I’ve never seen one of these in person but it appears the only difference is the set back transom. Now as many of you know they didn’t make a center console 21. And to cut up a perfectly good Cuddy boat would be ridiculous. However this one has already been gutted. The cap is gone so basically what I’m looking at is a v-20 hull with a set back transom.

As far as condition the boat seems solid as a rock. The stringers and transom sound solid when hitting them with a hammer. I recall from my last V that thumpy, wet sound when hitting a wet or soft spot and I can’t find any. The deal I got is the boat and trailer for $200. The trailer is in pretty good shape and made the 40 mile trip home with no issues. The boat also has a nice looking poly tank in it so I feel I definitely got my moneys worth. I now have 2 big poly tanks and can probably sell whichever one I decide not to use for $200.

My plan is to put in a new floor to the hull sides much like a skiff, or like a center console from the early 70’s. It appears the original liner floor sat a couple inches above the stringers as there is a very high build up of whatever they use to adhere it. My plan is to put the new floor right on top of the stringers as they still appear to be higher than the water line. The console has a seat on the front and the leaning post will be the only seating. I want the boat as open as possible to make more room for moving around while fishing. I have a couple marine bean bags I’ll just throw in the boat for the kiddos when needed.

Then the big project is going to be building a cap. I want it to be flat and low profile, really showing the profile of the hull, much like the flatcap V’s. I would love to come across an abandoned flat cap V-20 from the early 70’s and salvage the cap but I doubt I’ll get that lucky.

Anyways I’ll try to keep you guys updated and will try and post some pics. I’ve been trying for a while to post some but can’t figure it out. I use my phone so I guess I need to try on the laptop.

[Destroyer]

Sounds like you have a well thought out plan in place. Just a slight piece of advice. Look carefully at the inside of the transom where the set back "bubble" it comes through the transom. See that 1" gap on either side? My advice is to fill it and then glass over it to either side of the stringers back there for much needed and added strength. The general consensus of thought is that the reason these hulls are only rated for 200 HP outboards is that the original construction of the way the bubble is attached through the transom made it unwise to rate the hull for a higher HP engine. Just my 2 cents, but that's what I did with my 96 V21 when I had the deck off it.

[3 Squids]

Sounds like you have a well thought out plan in place. Just a slight piece of advice. Look carefully at the inside of the transom where the set back "bubble" it comes through the transom. See that 1" gap on either side? My advice is to fill it and then glass over it to either side of the stringers back there for much needed and added strength. The general consensus of thought is that the reason these hulls are only rated for 200 HP outboards is that the original construction of the way the bubble is attached through the transom made it unwise to rate the hull for a higher HP engine. Just my 2 cents, but that's what I did with my 96 V21 when I had the deck off it.

I’ve had this plan together for a couple years now just never had the time or money to do it. Time is still hard to come by nowadays but because of that I can finally have a little cash flow to put towards it.

I need to do some cleaning up back there and figure out exactly what’s going on. There’s just globs and globs of the filler material everywhere around the transom. I definitely need to clean it up then look into doing as you say. It’s already this far apart, I might as well get it right now.

[3 Squids]

Also what bubble are you referring to? I will try to snap a few pics of the transom and maybe you could point out to me what you mean.

[3 Squids]

test pics

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[3 Squids]

Ok so I figured out how to attach thumbs so I guess that's better than nothing. Here's some more of what I'm starting with. First order of business is getting all the foam out and covering her up and possibly putting a dehumidifier in her for a while to try and get her dried out good. Then I guess I'll put some new foam back in her and get the floor sealed up. I've read in a few places that a pressure washer is the best way to get old foam out. Anybody else have any suggestions let me know.

Also I'm planning on stopping by our local fiberglass shop and ordering supplies. I'm thinking about getting 5 gallons of laminating resin and 5 gallons finish resin and a whole bunch of cloth and mat. After I get the floor in and cap supports I may save myself some trouble and take it to my guy and have him chop gun the whole inside. He recently did a boat for a buddy of mine and I guess they put the white gel coat right in the strand and it looks great.

Ok, not sure why but the pics are upside down, but the first ones weren't. Ill figure this out one day.

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[Destroyer]

I call the set back that the engine mounts onto the bubble. Don't know what else to call it so I coined the phrase. Since a V20 has an almost flat transom, the setback on the V21 from the outside looked like a bubble to me.

Anyways, if you look at the inside of the transom where the bubble is attached you'll see that the two pieces (transom and bubble) are not connected very well. There's a gap on the sides. it's that gap that I'm talking about. fill it with filler and then class it all together and that should add some additional strength to the whole transom. It's not necessary, but when I had my deck off and looked it just seemed prudent to do so.

[3 Squids]

I call the set back that the engine mounts onto the bubble. Don't know what else to call it so I coined the phrase. Since a V20 has an almost flat transom, the setback on the V21 from the outside looked like a bubble to me.

Anyways, if you look at the inside of the transom where the bubble is attached you'll see that the two pieces (transom and bubble) are not connected very well. There's a gap on the sides. it's that gap that I'm talking about. fill it with filler and then class it all together and that should add some additional strength to the whole transom. It's not necessary, but when I had my deck off and looked it just seemed prudent to do so.

Ok I think I see where you’re referring to. Right now there’s a layer of that hard filler on top of the transom but I hit it with a hammer on the sides and it feels like there is foam under it. Does seem like a very vurnable void. I’ll definitly look into it. I still haven’t confirmed the wood to be completely solid yet. If I grind/cut out the filler on top of the transom and the core seems wet I may be looking into a carbon-core pourable transom and it’d be ideal to seal the top of the transom up to the highest point where it meets the normal transom location and fill the lower transom and those voids at the same time. Very confusing I know haha. Hopefully in the next few days we’ll get some decent weather and I can get into it. Been raining nonstop here.

[3 Squids]

Are these arrows pointing to the spots you’re talking about?

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[3 Squids]

Oh and since I figured out the picture thing, I’ll share my father in laws baby. 1972 with a 200hp on the back of her. Met up with us this past weekend and I was topping out at about 42 in my Coastal and he blew by me like I was sitting still. Thing is scary fast. She’s a little bit of a project but he’s got a nice one for sure.

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[Destroyer]

I know that a lot of people say that a 150 is the ideal horsepower for a V20 but to my mind a 200 is way better. Granted you cannot normally use that much speed on the ocean because of the waves, etc. but on a smoother lake or river it is just a sweet ride at WOT. Your dad's boat looks nice. :clap:

The gap I was talking about is inside your boat. if you stand inside and look at the stern where the bubble comes through the transom. Follow the stringers and there's a place where the vertical stringers go through the horizontal stringers + They could have been joined together for more strength but Wellcraft didn't do it. They left a gap between them of about an inch. That's the area I was talking about. Hard to tell from your pics if they did that on your hull but that was the case on mine.

[3 Squids]

Yea I like a 200 on these hulls but a 150 does its job. For this project I have a 2004 Johnson 175 so I guess I’ll have the best of both worlds?? I bought a 20’ Palm Beach center console that needs a floor. It’s just been sittin because well, it’s really not my style of boat and I haven’t wanted to spend the time or money on it. But it was a deal I couldn’t pass up. I can easily part it out and get my money back but instead I am just going to part it out to myself for the V-21. I now have a console, T-top, leaning post, motor/rigging, fuel tank etc. The trailer it’s on is also nicer than the one the V is on so I’ll swap that out to.

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If anyone local wants this Palm Beach hull when I’m done she’s free to a good home. Needs a floor and the PO cut some of the floor out and it’s been open in the rain so I’m sure the foam is logged.

[Destroyer]

Interesting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Wellcraft-Fisherman-Fishing-Boat-w-Trailer-Hudson-FL-No-Fees-No-Reserve/263754034536?hash=item3d68f72d68:g:zogAAOSwx95bFWi 4

[3 Squids]

Interesting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-Wellcraft-Fisherman-Fishing-Boat-w-Trailer-Hudson-FL-No-Fees-No-Reserve/263754034536?hash=item3d68f72d68:g:zogAAOSwx95bFWi 4

That an 18’ right?

[Destroyer]

Yes. Still... it's an interesting find for anyone looking for a smaller boat. :head:

[1224bret]

I’m actually in the process of converting my cuddy to a cc and am doing it like you are glassing the floor directly to the sides setting on top of the stringers. Looking forward to your progress pics.

[1224bret]

Here’s a pic that kinda shows what I’m doing. Completely built console from scratch not quite finished with it yet.

[3 Squids]

I’m actually in the process of converting my cuddy to a cc and am doing it like you are glassing the floor directly to the sides setting on top of the stringers. Looking forward to your progress pics.

Here’s a pic that kinda shows what I’m doing. Completely built console from scratch not quite finished with it yet.

Very nice. I can’t wait to get mine started. Unfortunately work is keeping me away from it recently. I did manage to have 10 free minutes yesterday and I dug into some of the foam and just as I suspected the last inch or so was solid water. I had dental surgery yesterday and by doctors orders took today off so I plan on going out today and getting the foam all out and clean her up and get a cover on her.

[Destroyer]

Yep. That last 1-3 inches of foam is usually where the water is the most. It's amazing how much extra weight just those few inches can add to the total overall weight of the boat.

I'm in the process of removing the same thing (saturated foam) from my 16.5 Airslot. I've already removed over 350lb of saturated foam. I think I'm going to try something a little different this time. First, I'm going to use solid foam noodles (think of the ones used in swimming pools) instead of foaming in place to fill the voids.. This way I'll always be able to remove and replace them easily and cheaply if they get waterlogged. Second, instead of glassing the deck back into place like I did with my V21, I think I'm going to secure it back down with SS screws and seal the edges with silicone caulk so I'll always be able to remove it easily. The whole idea is to make it as easy as possible to remove the deck again if I ever have to replace the fuel tank or bilge pumps or filler hoses or.... well, you get the idea. I'm all about convenience on this project. :head:

[3 Squids]

Yep. That last 1-3 inches of foam is usually where the water is the most. It's amazing how much extra weight just those few inches can add to the total overall weight of the boat.

I'm in the process of removing the same thing (saturated foam) from my 16.5 Airslot. I've already removed over 350lb of saturated foam. I think I'm going to try something a little different this time. First, I'm going to use solid foam noodles (think of the ones used in swimming pools) instead of foaming in place to fill the voids.. This way I'll always be able to remove and replace them easily and cheaply if they get waterlogged. Second, instead of glassing the deck back into place like I did with my V21, I think I'm going to secure it back down with SS screws and seal the edges with silicone caulk so I'll always be able to remove it easily. The whole idea is to make it as easy as possible to remove the deck again if I ever have to replace the fuel tank or bilge pumps or filler hoses or.... well, you get the idea. I'm all about convenience on this project. :head:

I like the pool noodle idea. And the boat I was going to fix up for my nephew had a removable deck like you speak of. Seems like an ok idea as long as it’s done well (his wasn’t). I’m going to seal this one up good. I didn’t get to work on it today as my mouth is hurting a lot worse then I though it was but I’m my blank mind of a day thought of something. I noticed on this boat at the top of the foam there is a hole through the stringer into the center of the boat to where any water that gets on top of the foam in theory will go into the bilge before saturating the foam.

I seriously doubt this worked but I can’t really rule it out with this boat because the floor has been cut open to the elements for over a year so there’s no way that much water could of ran off quick enough. But my thought is what if I re-foam the compartments then put a couple layers of chop strand over the foam then make weep holes into the bilge area. It may be a complete waste of time but is there any reason anyone here thinks I’d regret doing it?

[Destroyer]

The saturated foam does not come just from standing water on the bottom of the bilge. When I redid my V21 I had to do so because the wood under the deck was completely rotted. No water was ever standing on that wood. I was all because of humidity. The PO never vented the bilge area after use or during the winter. SO my thought is that if humidity is enough to rot wood it might be able to be absorbed into the foam in the same way. Understand, this is just theory with no proof on my part. If I was going to seal the foam in the voids I'd make sure that it was, indeed, a seal. No weep holes, no top holes, no penetrations of any kind. If there's no way for water to get in then there's no way for water to saturate the foam. :head:

[3 Squids]

Well got some time today to play with the 21. I started digging out the foam with a spade shovel which worked very well. It came out in large chunks which made it easy to bag up. My plan was to do as little work with the shovel as possible and use my pressure washer to do the rest. Well that didn***8217;t go as planned. On areas where the foam is a thin layer it worked great. However in areas it was thick like in the corners and the bottom of the spaces it didn***8217;t work well. I have a 3100 psi washer and tried all the tips, even a turbo tip.

So it looks like I***8217;m going to go back through with the shovel and maybe a thin pry bar and try to get the majority of it out. Then with a thin layer hit it with the pressure washer. The washer does a great job of getting it clean off of the glass.

Also I noticed while using the stringers and bulkheads as pry points for the shovel that they are relatively strong Very little flex even with a lot of weight being put on the shovel but there is one spot that concerns me. The port stringer, right beside the fuel tank is soft. A lot of flex and hollowness. At the bulkhead forward of the tank the stringer turns in a bit so I***8217;m assuming there is a break there. I***8217;m guessing I can replace the stringer from there back. I***8217;m still going to inspect more areas and if I find more soft spots around the hull I guess a complete stringer/bulkhead job may be in order.

This is going to be a very time consuming project which is something I do not have much of. I***8217;m hoping to find someone who might take on this job and not completely screw me over. But I***8217;m having a hard time even finding anyone to give me an estimate. Seems everyone is stupid busy. So I guess I***8217;ll keep plucking along on it and maybe someone will come along and help me out. If not this could turn into a couple year project as between work and another project I***8217;m taking on (fill y***8217;all in on that in a couple weeks) I***8217;ll have very little time to work on this one. But it***8217;ll get there.

[bradford]

I admire your determination Squids, I'm not sure about yours, but some of those Palm Beach hulls had reverse chines like a Seacraft, not sure on whether or not they had variable deadrise though. Bgreene might want it.

[draglink]

Hey Squids, did you get that down at Glo Pt? I think it was my bro in laws project....hope all has been well, I've been turning 6200

---peace

[3 Squids]

Yea Troy was telling me you guys had it at one point t. He said he had it at one time. I got it from a guy in Callao. Why did you guys let it go? Something scare y’all away?

[draglink]

Yea Troy was telling me you guys had it at one point t. He said he had it at one time. I got it from a guy in Callao. Why did you guys let it go? Something scare y***8217;all away?

Time is all. My V is doing great, I just don't have time for a project. I already have a '73 V20 center console project that is on hold, I didn't need another!

I think I just saw your lime green V for sale on Facebook - $7000 with an old Johnnyrude on the back

[3 Squids]

I think I just saw your lime green V for sale on Facebook - $7000 with an old Johnnyrude on the back

You did. That guy thinks something of her. It’s changed hands 3 or 4 times since I sold it and still no one has put a canvas on it.

[draglink]

you did. That guy thinks something of her. It’s changed hands 3 or 4 times since i sold it and still no one has put a canvas on it.

lolol!!!

[bgreene]

V21 Transom - plenty strong as factory original -I ran it with 150hp, and big torque Etec 200 HO with no problems.
The transom can however be modified in two areas:
1. Outer transom edge - the upper aluminum trim strip they used where the boats top cap meets the transom. I had this removed, and completely re glassed , eliminating the seam, to produce a solid mass. Doesn't need to be done.....but is no doubt better than original.

2. Inside transom - as Destroyer commented, I also had this done - glassed over the mfg. seam and sealed together the middle to both sides.

In my boats case, I had this done after I cracked the gel coat on outer transom, and being a bit of a perfectionist with my boat, one thing led to another- I finally found Signature Fiberglass-Joe Whilden who did it right and it's no doubt even stronger than when it left the factory in 1996.

Bow slider........I had removable cover made with rubber flange that eliminates water intrusion in the case of wave over bow, heavy spray, rain etc. I don't know if water would leak into cuddy if the V21 model was kept in water........it's a decent if not perfect original factory design.

[bgreene]

Also- V21 trim tabs needed - especially if 200 hp.
Will pound without in chop but ride nicely with.

[3 Squids]

Also- V21 trim tabs needed - especially if 200 hp.
Will pound without in chop but ride nicely with.

I have a brand new Lenco tab setup still sitting in the box. I believe they are 9x12. I was planning on using them but not sure if they’d be too wide with the setback transom. Do you have a pic of your trim tab setup?

[bgreene]

I have a brand new Lenco tab setup still sitting in the box. I believe they are 9x12. I was planning on using them but not sure if they’d be too wide with the setback transom. Do you have a pic of your trim tab setup?

Happy to assist with pic- tomorrow

[bgreene]

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=7363&stc=1&d=1533225749http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=7364&stc=1&d=1533225749http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=7365&stc=1&d=1533225749http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=7366&stc=1&d=1533225749

Why are the pictures sideways ? No idea........but just turn your computer around :) and you'll see I provided you with two pictures of each side - including under so you can see how I lined up with bottom of hull .

[Pipe_Dream]

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=7363&stc=1&d=1533225749http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=7364&stc=1&d=1533225749http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=7365&stc=1&d=1533225749http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/attachment.php?attachmentid=7366&stc=1&d=1533225749

Why are the pictures sideways ? No idea........but just turn your computer around :) and you'll see I provided you with two pictures of each side - including under so you can see how I lined up with bottom of hull .

Nice work.

[bgreene]

Thanks - how’s the 175 Zuke been for you - fantastic fuel economy ?

[3 Squids]

What size tabs? Mine are 12”w by 9”l. Yours look narrower.

[Greyduk]

3 Squids, Did the V-21 have a windshield when you got it? If so would you want to sell it? Thanks.


Fred

[3 Squids]

Well now that it’s cooling down and I had a few free hours today I figured i needed to go strip the donor boat for this project. Before I stripped it I figured I’d try to start her and see how she runs. It has a 2003 175 Johnson. Motor is super clean and looks very low hour. Got some gas to her and she started but ran very badly. Smoke was coming back out of the air box quite a bit so I knew something was wrong. Pulled the plugs and one was bone dry. Put my finger over the hole and cranked it and felt nothing. Shined a light in and could quickly see something wasn’t right. Figured it’d only take a second to pop the head off so I did and this is what I found.
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Not sure if the VRO failed or what but it’s not good. Cylinder wall is tore up pretty badly. The scratches in it may be able to be bored but it beat the living heck out of one of the ports. I looked to try to find a sleeve but have had no luck. So it’s back to the drawing board.

Anyways I continued to strip the boat, got the T-Top, console, cooler seat, windshield, and plan on snatching the poly tank out as it is a huge tank. It’ll be real nice for trips across the bay. Time to get cranking on this thing, just got to figure out the motor situation. I do have the 200 Evinrude off the boat I got from Destroyer as I’m not convinced I’ll be fixing that boat. Lot of rotten wood in her. May just part it out.

[3 Squids]

Went out today and set the console and t top in just to get a vision in my head. It looks really tall to me but I do plan on lowering the floor a couple inches so that may help. Still got to play with how far forward I want it. In these 2 pics there is about a 6 inch difference in where it sits. I am liking the more forward pic but am thinking about scootching it a few more inches forward and look at it for a while.
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Looking at the stringers today it looks like from the bulkhead in front of the fuel tank they are solid. And at that bulkhead they actually turn onwards toward the bow. If that is the case I may just redo them from the tank back. Working nights for the next couple weeks so I am gonna have a little free time during the day. Planning on getting the rest of the demo done and start cutting new stringers.