Rod holder ?

[BillTex]

Ok...I understand flush mounted rod holders are too long unless you cut through the rods boxes. Which you may not want to do due to drainage issues.

What if I place (teak?) wood spacers under the flange of the rod holders to lift them up enough?

Any reason this wouldn't work?

I cannot seem to find any good picture threads of flush mount rod holders...can anyone point me to some good pics that point out the issue?

Tx, Bill

[Destroyer]

Hmmm ... well, the holders are exactly that... holders... so their placement isn't all the critical. My downriggers have to built in holders each, so that's 4, plus 1 holder at the stern after the rod boxes, so that's 6 plus another one on each side in front of the rod boxes, so that's 8 (4 without the DR's) Point is, figure out how many you really need and place accordingly. Oh, and lets not forget the rod boxes themselves.. 6 there, but I keep my boat hook there also, so that's 5 available... and of course the cuddy for storage
... you get the idea...

[BillTex]

I should have been more clear; these would be for trolling (not rod storage). Lead line for stripers and off shore for tuna.
They need to be solid-they will get whacked hard.

Flushmounted in the gunnels will be required. I will need 6-8 holders.

I see a lot of old threads here that say the standard SS rod holders are too long and will require cutting in to the rod boxes and create a leak path to the hull liner.

A nice wood spacer under the flange of the rod holder may give enough lift to avoid this...does anyone know how much spacer I would need 1"? 2"?

Tx, Bill

[phatdaddy]

I think i'd rather have the bottom on the rod holder sticking through the top of the rod box than raise them on the gunnell 2-3 inches. I troll for mackeral and grouper and can only drag 2 rods at a time.

How many will u be trolling with?

[jvitiel]

Not a great picture but in mine the holder protrudes about 1.5" to 2" through the top of the rod box and to a lesser extent through the rear. It pretty much drains into the cockpit and a little baffle work could ensure that it completely drains into the cockpit. It sticks too far down to use a shim on top of the gunwale IMO but maybe you could split the difference with a 1" shim and trim an inch off the bottom of the holder? Maybe just trim the lower corner off of the holder or maybe move the pin up some too and then cut a bit more off. Note that if you don't cut the rod box, the holder will drain 100% into the hull liner so covers or drain tubes will be needed.

http://i1253.photobucket.com/albums/hh592/jvitieljvitiel/rodbox_zpstfew4nb6.jpg (http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/jvitieljvitiel/media/rodbox_zpstfew4nb6.jpg.html)

[BillTex]

Not a great picture but in mine the holder protrudes about 1.5" to 2" through the top of the rod box and to a lesser extent through the rear. It pretty much drains into the cockpit and a little baffle work could ensure that it completely drains into the cockpit. It sticks too far down to use a shim on top of the gunwale IMO but maybe you could split the difference with a 1" shim and trim an inch off the bottom of the holder? Maybe just trim the lower corner off of the holder or maybe move the pin up some too and then cut a bit more off. Note that if you don't cut the rod box, the holder will drain 100% into the hull liner so covers or drain tubes will be needed.


Thank you...that explains a LOT. I'll measure everything...but now that I understand I don't think I'll have any problem cutting through the rod box. Seems to be a non-issue. I was having a hard understanding what the problem was until you posted this...

Edit; I would be trolling 6-8 rods for tuna...

Thx, bill

[SkunkBoat]

before you go cutting holes...

The other problem you will encounter is that you cannot angle them out in a normal trolling spread. The gunnel is not wide enough to mount them outward at 45 and 90 degrees. 6 rods all pointed straight back make a tight spread!

I have 3 in each gunnel...i'll try & find a picture...

forward of the rod box is a 0 degree (straight up,this is for drifting not trolling), aft of the rod box is a 30* straight back and in the far stern I have a 30degree angled out 90 degrees. There is room back there but you have to remove the "bait bins" and use a special rod holder from GEM that doesnt have mounting screws

[phatdaddy]

I can't troll two without a mess, can't imagine pulling 6/8.

[bradford]

Not a fisherman so take it with a grain of salt, I have just 2 30 degree rod holders mounted aft of the rod boxes, no cutting required. Have seen them mounted on the forward edge of the splash well, would probably need to be 0 degrees. Lumberslinger has a nice custom rod holder setup that transverses his splashwell. Would look pretty nice for what you need I would think. I don't think the spacers would look good. If I were going to go that route I would have full length teak covering boards from just aft of the side windsheilds to the back edge next to the lazarette storage hatch/boxes.

Get a bunch of good ideas and opinions before you cut holes. As soon as you do someone will chime in with the perfect functional and ergonomic solution.

[BillTex]

before you go cutting holes...

The other problem you will encounter is that you cannot angle them out in a normal trolling spread. The gunnel is not wide enough to mount them outward at 45 and 90 degrees. 6 rods all pointed straight back make a tight spread!

I have 3 in each gunnel...i'll try & find a picture...



Yeah...for sure would need to be angled. I haven't measured yet...but really the gunnels are that narrow? Where is the problem...the width of the flange vs the gunnel?

Pics would be great if you can find them.

I am trying to have a plan for all these mods so I can get busy in the spring. Unfortunately I picked up the boat 2 weeks ago and brought it home and covered it up right away before snow storm the next day...

Well, anyway...if you Guys don't mind I'll keep asking questions...it'll give us something to do over the winter. If we can't work on boats...at least we can talk about working on boats!

What about the swivel rod holders...anybody try those in a V20?

Thanx, Bill

[scook]

Well, like Bradford, take with a grain of salt - I pretty much only troll Salmon on the Columbia River in Oregon and use Scotty socket type (the socket screws onto the inside of top of the gunnel) and they adjust in any direction. If they're strong enough for Tuna, they'd be something to consider. Another possibility would be to mount a couple of not very high stainless rails in the tunnels and get some clamp-on rod holders.

I just looked on marinepartdepot.com and saw some interesting adjustable stainless rod holders that top-mount on the gunnels, they look like they might solve your problem. I've bought stuff from them and it's been pretty good stuff and way less expensive than other suppliers. A couple of items that should have exactly matched had a different screw pattern and some of their descriptions (measurements) are a little vague but they've been good about taking the few things back that weren't what I wanted.

[mawshj]

some people use a planer board with line clips at 8---10 foot spaces that allows rods to be upright maybe 3 each side 2 strait back, nice patern

[BillTex]

Well, like Bradford, take with a grain of salt - I pretty much only troll Salmon on the Columbia River in Oregon and use Scotty socket type (the socket screws onto the inside of top of the gunnel) and they adjust in any direction. If they're strong enough for Tuna, they'd be something to consider. Another possibility would be to mount a couple of not very high stainless rails in the tunnels and get some clamp-on rod holders.

I just looked on marinepartdepot.com and saw some interesting adjustable stainless rod holders that top-mount on the gunnels, they look like they might solve your problem. I've bought stuff from them and it's been pretty good stuff and way less expensive than other suppliers. A couple of items that should have exactly matched had a different screw pattern and some of their descriptions (measurements) are a little vague but they've been good about taking the few things back that weren't what I wanted.
Thanks for the ideas...but a clamp on type rod holder will not work for tuna.

Ever hook a Buick?!

Depending on tackle, your drags can be set at 30#-50# of force (or more!). A rigid mount is required.

We caught some Big Eye's this season that were ~ 200#...took 1.5 hrs to boat. We had a double header...what a dance that was!

Largest fish ever boated was a 910# giant...on my Buddy's 22- Hiliner. That was fun...

I hope to fish the V at the in-shore waters for Tuna...fuel will be tight...but I think we'll be ok if we pick our days.

I have fished out to 90 miles on that 22 Hliner and our 22' Grady.
A close eye on weather and Buddy boat are essential.

Thx, bill

[scook]

Now that's fishing. I think you might find some of the stainless ones that bolt on top of the gunnels to be solid enough. Through-bolting with a good sized plate on the under side should be as good as you can get for attachment strength.

[SkunkBoat]

This is from page 4 of my transom repair thread

"Since I have clear access with the back cap off...
Added the new rodholders and flush cleats.
I wanted some 30 deg rodholders angled out 90deg. There is no way to get them in gunnels because they are too narrow.
I found these from Gem-Lux. They don't have screw holes so they are only 3.5 inch on the diagonal instead of normal 4.5 inch.

Put the rodholders right over the old holes for the cleats.

Thought they would clear the tubs in the transom hatches but they don't. 15 deg holders would clear or angling them out 45 instead of 90 would work. There no changing your mind...once you cut an angled hole thats it.

so now I have to figure out what to replace the tubs with. Only use them to hold boat soap & hand cleaner I think I'll tab in some rails to inside transom and the cap wall to mount a shelf. Thought about mounting a bucket in there but it would never come out once the cap is on.

If I ditch the tubs I'll post them here cause people are always looking for them.

Cleats went in easy. I like them. Don't use the stern cleats much since I clip to transom u-bolts."

[BillTex]

Thanks skunk...I saw those GEM socket type rod holders. They way you describe them...needing only 3.5"- might be just the ticket.

Thanks for pic too-really helps me understand the clearance issue.

Has anyone mounted flush rod holders on the splash wheel wall? Would the GEM type work there (3.5")?
If I could fit 2 in tight here and 4 in the gunnels...this would be a great spread. I like to fish 2 hex heads in really tight (1st wake) and then work out from there...


It's going to be a long winter...

Bill

[BillTex]

Just found these at West marine http://mateseries.com/assets/print-marketing/Mate-Series-specs-public.pdf
Sounds a little silly at first-but look at how they mount-straight holes! If you Guys could take a look at the spec sheet and let me know if you think these would fit the gunnels that would be great.
3 7/16" max bolt hole pattern...

Tx, Bill

[SkunkBoat]

Just found these at West marine http://mateseries.com/assets/print-marketing/Mate-Series-specs-public.pdf
Sounds a little silly at first-but look at how they mount-straight holes! If you Guys could take a look at the spec sheet and let me know if you think these would fit the gunnels that would be great.
3 7/16" max bolt hole pattern...

Tx, Bill

I looked at those before.Would love to have them. The ovals would barley fit(only straight back) and the hole will take most of the wood.
:head:My memory tells me the top, flat surface of the gunnel is 4 1/4" on my 1984 V20cuddy.

You can get 2 regulars in each gunnel aft of the rod box and one forward of the rod box. Furthest aft Put a 30 degree straight back, just forward of that put a 0 degree and a 0 degree forward of the rod box. Use outrodders in the 0 degree holders.

You can also mount surface mount rodholders in various places around the motorwell.

My gunnel is modified so it looks very wide but heres a pik to give you an idea.

I don't think you can put flushmounts in the motorwell and have clearance for the battery/oil res/bilge pump.

[BillTex]

I looked at those before.Would love to have them. The ovals would barley fit(only straight back) and the hole will take most of the wood.
:head:My memory tells me the top, flat surface of the gunnel is 4 1/4" on my 1984 V20cuddy.

You can get 2 regulars in each gunnel aft of the rod box and one forward of the rod box. Furthest aft Put a 30 degree straight back, just forward of that put a 0 degree and a 0 degree forward of the rod box. Use outrodders in the 0 degree holders.

You can also mount surface mount rodholders in various places around the motorwell.

My gunnel is modified so it looks very wide but heres a pik to give you an idea.

I don't think you can put flushmounts in the motorwell and have clearance for the battery/oil res/bilge pump.

OK...sounds like there would not be enough wood left for a sturdy mount using these Mate rod holders? Do standard flush mounts use a smaller hole?

Thx, Bill

[SkunkBoat]

OK...sounds like there would not be enough wood left for a sturdy mount using these Mate rod holders? Do standard flush mounts use a smaller hole?

Thx, Bill

the hole is the size of a cupholder 3 1/4" vs the size of a rod butt 2"

[garbubba]

My 83 V came from Florida & someone was using it for trolling like you want to do. It has two outrigger mounts forward, a pair of rod holders angled out as much as possible behind that, and two more straight back. That's a lot of lines in a small boat.

[BillTex]

My 83 V came from Florida & someone was using it for trolling like you want to do. It has two outrigger mounts forward, a pair of rod holders angled out as much as possible behind that, and two more straight back. That's a lot of lines in a small boat.

Nice...some pics would be great...

Tx, Bill

[BillTex]

Hi all, someone over on THT suggested 0* swivel rod holders all around. This would certainly address the gunnel clearance issue with the V20, and enable positioning the rods as needed for trolling, drifting, etc.

I can't for the life of me see why this isn't a great solution...any thoughts?

Seems like the best idea...

Tx, Bill

[SkunkBoat]

do you have bent butt rods?? Otherwise, where are you going to swivel?

[BillTex]

Hey skunk
Last two boats had swivels just in rear corners. Fished straight stand ups , no bent butts. Swivel always kept the rod/guides/line in optimal direction no matter where the fish ran.
We usually fish short handed...2 or 3. When you get Multiple hook ups one rod may sit in a holder for a while

Those boats were rigged when i purchased them. The v has no holes in it...a blank slate
Trying to "measure 2x...cut once"...

Back in the day we just dropped a golf ball in the rod holder...that was our "swivel"

Tx, bill

[SkunkBoat]

That's fine for the corner and fighting a fish but you want to spread multiple lines while trolling and not have them cross on a hookup.

Use an outrodder in a 0* fwd of the rod box and a "Kite" double rod holder in a 30* straight back furthest aft. The the lower rod gets a flat line clip, upper line will be the wfb line

[SkunkBoat]

here is a shot of my rig trolling for bft/mahi.
This is before I mounted the GemLux rod holders aft.

Here, on each side, I have 0* fwd of rod box running to outrigger, 30* aft of rod box running wtfb, and flatline in a surface mount rodholder near the "bait bin" angled abeam

oh...and a wwwtfb up in the top down the middle

http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j345/skunkboat/G0020105_zpsmp04wp5e.jpg (http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/skunkboat/media/G0020105_zpsmp04wp5e.jpg.html)

[BillTex]

That's fine for the corner and fighting a fish but you want to spread multiple lines while trolling and not have them cross on a hookup.

Use an outrodder in a 0* fwd of the rod box and a "Kite" double rod holder in a 30* straight back furthest aft. The the lower rod gets a flat line clip, upper line will be the wfb line

Thanks-yes agree-so what you are suggesting is there is no point in using swivels other than at transom?

The other 2 positions can be fixed (no advantage to swivel)?

Your suggestion (correct me if wrong);
Transom corners = 0* swivels
Mid gunnel = 30* fixed
Closest to helm = 0* fixed with outrodder

Assuming you can place 2 rods in each outrodder-this would actually allow me to fish 8 lines?! Might get a little tight if I can't spread them out enough...

Edit; skink do you have a pick of the cockpit/gunnels while you are running that spread shown in the pic above?

Thank you!

Bill

P.s. Love your setup with the hard top and riggers...

[SkunkBoat]

0* corners is a problem because, while trolling, the line from the 30* will hit it if you don't have a bent butt rod in the 0*

The key is to have the tips of the rods such that while trolling AND when hooked up, the line from a forward rod doesn't tangle an aft rod tip.

the double rodholder does that by putting the rear rod lower than the forward rod. I would use this as pictured, both rods pointed aft. The forward rod on a long outrigger and the aft rod on the short rigger(assuming you have large outriggers. the riggers on my boat would not allow a long & short.). I would not point the double rodholder type outward while trolling.
The single outrodder type is made for that.(use a safety lanyard)

On our V20s you are going to be hard pressed to run 8 lines, especially without outriggers. The most I've run is 7 and it ain't easy, even when you're NOT catching fish.
I've run 5 without outriggers no problem but riggers make a better spread

[BillTex]

0* in corners would be on clips...but I see your point.

One of the challenges-as you know-is they limited space we have in our gunnels.

I have made some 3d models (solid works) that I can use as templates and determine just how much room I have. (Before cutting holes!). It appears that 15* holders will provide some flexibility in how i orient the holders (straight back/angles out)...so after the weather breaks...and I get the snow off the boat...i will lay it all out. I am thinking maybe 15*'s all around.

If i put 2 in tight at transom (i think i can fit them in splashwell area) on clips for flat lines. And then 2 in each gunnel...i should be able to fish a 6 rod spread (maybe 7 with a wfb right up the middle).

I'll fish like this for a season and see how it goes. Maybe a hard top...and/or riggers are in my future. Our Grady had riggers and they sure helped with the spread...

Why do you recommend not to point rods "out" using outriders? Are they not robust enough to hold the rod? (I have never used these...).

Thanks again, Bill

[SkunkBoat]

Why do you recommend not to point rods "out" using outriders? Are they not robust enough to hold the rod? (I have never used these...).

The double rod holders are originally designed for holding a kite rod and fishing rod while drifting. We use them on that big sportie in the previous picture for trolling. Its not my boat or there would be a dozen flush rodholders, including swivels in the cornersfor fighting swords on 80ws with bent butts
They hold the long & short rigger lines with 50w reels set to strike. Because they are not angled outward, there is no "torque" on the pin of the flush mount rodholder they are in.... even if we get a double hookup, which has happened often. I find that they raise the butt of the rod high and taking them out of one while hanging over the side with a 70# yft would be awkward. They also are not going to get you angled outward enough for some spread in the lines if you are not using outriggers. We have used them deadsticking for sharks & swords and it is hard to take out an 80w or a 9/0 if you are dumb enough to set on a runoff.

The single "outrodders" put a rod lower and pointed OUT like a short outrigger.Just be aware that a strike while in a turn can yank a rod out so use a lanyard

[BillTex]

Thanks skunk...i am starting to get the picture now.

The single outrodder is the first pic in your post #26?

Do you suggest running these from holders closest to helm?

Bill

[SkunkBoat]

yes because the rod tip will be furthest out. When you are in a turn, its line will not cross the line of the rod that is straight back in the aft rodholder and both lines will stay outside the boat.

[BillTex]

Thanks skunk...I think I've got a plan.

Now where did I put the hole saw?

B

[SkunkBoat]

found a pik

The problem with this setup is that on a hookup the rigger rod line releases and comes dangerously close to the aft rod.
I can put that rod in the rodholder that is welded to the hardtop but we didn't want to mess with having a lanyard.

[BillTex]

Skunk...why not run the transom rods straight back?
Would they get too close to each other?

Almost seems like the transom rods would be further out than the rods at mid gunnel with this setup?

Nice shot with the porpoise!

Bill

[BillTex]

Hey skunk, picked up a pair of these; https://www.outriggerunlimited.com/
Should be just the ticket for a small boat!

Bill

[bgreene]

I didn't read this entire thread so pardon me if this has been mentioned.....

To create a more 90 degree angle, I drilled new holes at the bottom of the rod holder and inserted a new " pin" to lock into the fishing rod butt when stuck into the rod holder....

This way, you don't have to worry about rotating the gunnel flush holders, because the locking bar at the bottom is moved.

I did it to offset the rod bend associated with trolling spoons on m Maja rods that bend quite a bit. Still.........I attach bungee's to the rods so I don't lose the rod no matter what.
So the rod is more 90 degrees to the boat, then bends when trolling but still firmly in place.

[steplift20]

They have rod holders that come with brackets so the rod holder fits in the bracket which is mounted to the inside of the gunnels they also have rod holders that are plastic and made by the Roberts company and they have two differant mounts You can mount it on top or the side and that's what I have, they work fine

[steplift20]

Try searching attwood 2 in 1 rod holders they bolt( not screwed) to the side of the tunnel and don't inter fear with the rod boxes

[BillTex]

Steplft20
Thanks...but if u read back you'll see this boat is being setup for occasional tuna duty.

Thanx anyway,
Bill

[jrisapirate]

I have the two in the back. for straight back but they are a pain to get to because of battery boxes. I have the 20 fisherman.

I also have a couple stainless clamp on ones in the front. They didn't look right mounted on the console.

So I went with four of these... Come out when not in use.

[jrisapirate]

I'm figuring this will let me fish 4/5 rods with no problem.

[SkunkBoat]

yeah, they'll certainly do for deadstick drifting fluke or even bass fishing live bunker with just the clicker on.

Make sure your drag is loose enough for when you snag bottom....