View Full Version : Popped screws in deck
steplift20
01-25-2016, 12:07 PM
I have to screw my deck down cause some of the screws do not tighten cause the holes stripped what I would like to know did anyone ever use well nuts to fix this problem? I know about epoxying plastic squares under but I have a bunch of well nuts and I think it would be easier but I don't know if they would hold up
scook
01-25-2016, 05:42 PM
What are well nuts?
Destroyer
01-26-2016, 01:56 AM
They're an expanding plug. You can look at them in this link.
http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/pop/well-nut-threaded-inserts
phatdaddy
01-26-2016, 07:43 AM
Seems like they would work great. I would worry about the screw getting corroded and sticking in the insert. Can u get them with stainless threads or maybe use brass screws?
SkunkBoat
01-26-2016, 04:17 PM
If they aren't stainless or brass, don't use them.
try Fasco stainless togglers if you can drill thru...
What deck screws down? Do you mean the fuel tank hatch?
steplift20
01-26-2016, 10:11 PM
It is the fuel tank cover/panel
steplift20
01-26-2016, 10:13 PM
The well nuts look like they are brass threads the screw I would get s.s.
scook
01-27-2016, 01:42 AM
Thanks Destroyer - they seem similar in principal to some concrete anchors we use but I've never come across them. Learn something most days.
I'd be concerned about corrosion too but don't have any experience with them. I have a bunch of stripped screws in my hatch cover. I'd thought about those sheet metal nut things that are/were used in automotive applications (they slip over the edge) if I could get them in stainless.
My other idea is an epoxy repair that adds thickness under the fairly thin stripped out flange. I thought about using wide masking tape to create kind of a bag to hold the epoxy in place until it set and allow a thickness of 1/2" to 3/4""- maybe use Marine Tex. What do you guys think of that?
inaforty
01-27-2016, 01:59 AM
I used thicken epoxy. Easiest stuff to use comes in a caulking tube with a mixing tip. West system and Jamestown makes them.
Great videos and question and answer blog at Jamestown Dist.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=64347
phatdaddy
01-27-2016, 05:59 AM
I used gflex by west epoxy to tab little squares of scrap starboard under the lip.
SkunkBoat
01-27-2016, 08:54 AM
in the fuel tank hatch...don't over think it
Put a 1" wide strip of 1/2" pvc trim board (pine will work) under the lip, along the length of the edges. Temporary hold in place with a couple dabs of plain old silicone. Pre-drill a pilot hole through the existing holes in fiberglass. Screws
from the top will pull everything tight.
Be sure to silicone the hatch to be watertight!
Destroyer
01-28-2016, 02:57 AM
I used jack nuts on my rod holders to finally keep them in place. The screws were constantly stripping, and I know people here have tried all kinds of repairs including wood strips, starboard, fiberglass, epoxy etc. But the jack nut did the trick, it's made for thin brittle materials, it's invisible when assembled, and should I need to get to the area behind the rod holder they simply unscrew.
I got mine from a local supplier, but this is what I'm talking about:
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet-nuts-threaded-inserts/jack-nuts.html
I'm guessing you could also use Nutserts for some applications, but I don't think they would work for thin fiberglass. They would probably split or crack the hold during installation. (But would be great for thin sheet metal and might work for fiberglass. I just don't know. Anyways, Harbor freight sells a nice kit at a reasonable price:
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html
bradford
01-28-2016, 11:48 AM
I agree with Skunk. I've been trying to wean myself of the habit of always doing the hi tech costly route and overthinking stuff when fixing up a boat. A lot of times the cheap and easy works as good or better and will last longer than you will.
SkunkBoat
01-28-2016, 03:32 PM
I remove the tank hatch every spring, inspect, clean off old sealant and reseal with SiliconeII (gutter&roofing). No need for 3M 5200/4200.
You HAVE to seal that hatch unless you want a tank like jetblue319's
steplift20
01-29-2016, 06:09 AM
Skunk you just answered my next question about should I caulk Your the man I think I will got your way Don't over think it I like that
steplift20
01-30-2016, 06:48 PM
What's jet blue 319
wellcraftv20step
01-31-2016, 06:18 AM
I agree with Phatt ,,I once used a simple piece of treated 2x4 laid against the underside of the flange and pull it up tight with screws ,,,,Done
steplift20
01-31-2016, 10:35 AM
Yeah but the wood would rot and you would have to do it again, I don't want to do it again so I don't think the wood would be a good idea .
SkunkBoat
01-31-2016, 11:55 AM
If you are going to check & reseal every year it really doesn't matter. You can use whatever scrap you have lying around
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