Pour able transom

[JeanF]

Hello everyone,

I have to rebuild the transom, i red, few years ago, something about ceramic pouring. After few research on the site, i can 't locate the thread of it. I'm not sure but i think the best cie for that job is arjaytech ? For those of you who have in mind the thread, can you put it up here ?


Thank you and have a good september on the water !

[phatdaddy]

jeanf, go to the top of the page just about under mj holding the fish tothe search feature and type in arjay. bunch of stuff pops up

good luck

[cterrebonne]

here's the thread on my build.

I used arjay

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=17942&page=5

[reelapeelin]

here's the thread on my build.

I used arjay

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=17942&page=5

My '84 needs a new transom BAD!...thanks for reposting this!!...might be time to break out the safety goggles and chainsaw!!!

[SkunkBoat]

My 84' is due too. I've been trying to play it out in my mind.. If you are planning to dig it out with a chainsaw, how do you plan to get access to the top of the transom? Cap totally off or cutting the cap? Where would you cut?

[never satisfied]

I am doing mine on my 82 cuddy Outboard. So far I've taken the cap off and chainsawed the wood almost completely out. I drained the bar oil and cleaned it out. I figured I didn't want to have any oil in there that I might have to clean out later. It hasn't been hard this far. Now I am researching which brand to go with.
1. Sea cast seems really thick. I worry about what absorption I will get to any wood that I didn't get out
2. Carbon core is the ceramic from the videos looks like my favorite option. Thinner and would flow better into the tight areas.
3. 3m makes a similar one but its a little cheaper. Nida is the name.
4. Transom repair kit is the one I seen today. It is said that you only need a fraction of the amount the others are claiming. I think it is expandable but I am not sure. I've called the manufacture and am waiting a call or an email back.

Not looking for the cheapest option. Looking for the best option.
I do know I don't want to have wood thou.

[bradford]

I am doing mine on my 82 cuddy Outboard. So far I've taken the cap off and chainsawed the wood almost completely out. I drained the bar oil and cleaned it out. I figured I didn't want to have any oil in there that I might have to clean out later. It hasn't been hard this far. Now I am researching which brand to go with.
1. Sea cast seems really thick. I worry about what absorption I will get to any wood that I didn't get out
2. Carbon core is the ceramic from the videos looks like my favorite option. Thinner and would flow better into the tight areas.
3. 3m makes a similar one but its a little cheaper. Nida is the name.
4. Transom repair kit is the one I seen today. It is said that you only need a fraction of the amount the others are claiming. I think it is expandable but I am not sure. I've called the manufacture and am waiting a call or an email back.

Not looking for the cheapest option. Looking for the best option.
I do know I don't want to have wood thou.

Keep us posted on what you choose and let us know how it works and turns out.

[bgreene]

Easy enough to follow how to do the actual transom - but what about how it connects to the boat sides ?

Strong, dry transom is good - but unless the fixture / connection to the starboard and port sides also tight and dry............... doesn't seem fully secure.

Please enlighten me.

[SkunkBoat]

I think he hollowed out the existing transom so all of the fiberglass is intact along the sides.

I think I'll be doing the same but I don't think I want to remove the entire cap.
I don't want to cut the outer skin either. The transom on V20s are not flat and I don't want to mess with that. That's why pouring a transom seems the way to go.
The problem is getting at the parts of the transom that are under the cap.

Thinking of cutting the cap from the stern up into each hole for the lids, near the hinges, then from the front corner of the lid opening down to the spashwell floor and across. Should come out in one piece.
I THINK that will get me a big opening to access the transom and I will have access to glassing it back together thru the lid openings and the battery door opening. Opinions welcome.....

[cterrebonne]

Easy enough to follow how to do the actual transom - but what about how it connects to the boat sides ?

Strong, dry transom is good - but unless the fixture / connection to the starboard and port sides also tight and dry............... doesn't seem fully secure.

Please enlighten me.

are you talking about when you cut out the core with a chainsaw, wood drill bit, etc and then pour?

[reelapeelin]

I am doing mine on my 82 cuddy Outboard. So far I've taken the cap off and chainsawed the wood almost completely out. I drained the bar oil and cleaned it out. I figured I didn't want to have any oil in there that I might have to clean out later. It hasn't been hard this far. Now I am researching which brand to go with.
1. Sea cast seems really thick. I worry about what absorption I will get to any wood that I didn't get out
2. Carbon core is the ceramic from the videos looks like my favorite option. Thinner and would flow better into the tight areas.
3. 3m makes a similar one but its a little cheaper. Nida is the name.
4. Transom repair kit is the one I seen today. It is said that you only need a fraction of the amount the others are claiming. I think it is expandable but I am not sure. I've called the manufacture and am waiting a call or an email back.

Not looking for the cheapest option. Looking for the best option.
I do know I don't want to have wood thou.


I'm glad to see several of the brand options on one list...some there I haven't seen before now...I don't see Arjay on you list; that one being used by several around here for their rebuild...like Bradford, keep us posted on your decision and the outcome...pictures of the work are always appreciated cuz we just pic hos around here...:beer:

[never satisfied]

I think, well I am 95% sure Arjay told me that carbon Core is there supplier.... I emailed a guy by the name of Chris at Arjay's. We had about 10 messages back and forth and has pretty much answered all my questions. I haven't bought anything yet. I have the transom pretty much all carved out and I am letting it sit in the part with moisture bags to absorb as much out as I can. I am waiting to pour it when I get the barn doors on my brothers other barn.
Every company has told me the same thing....DRY, DRY, DRY, and more dry. so that's my goal.

[never satisfied]

Pics will be on the way.... I have to have so many posts in order to post a pic....
So please tolerate the rambling BS until I hit that number
Thanks

[cterrebonne]

I think, well I am 95% sure Arjay told me that carbon Core is there supplier.... I emailed a guy by the name of Chris at Arjay's. We had about 10 messages back and forth and has pretty much answered all my questions. I haven't bought anything yet. I have the transom pretty much all carved out and I am letting it sit in the part with moisture bags to absorb as much out as I can. I am waiting to pour it when I get the barn doors on my brothers other barn.
Every company has told me the same thing....DRY, DRY, DRY, and more dry. so that's my goal.

yes it has to be dry, since it is based up on polyester resin. Poly resin can not tolerate moisture.

[JeanF]

... So DRY is the name of the game! all right then! I will go ith pics later. airjay will be the product for the job. Just hope they will ship in Canada
:sly:

[cterrebonne]

... So DRY is the name of the game! all right then! I will go ith pics later. airjay will be the product for the job. Just hope they will ship in Canada
:sly:

You will probably have to give arjay a call and see who their distributor is in your area.

[Barnegat16]

I used a chain saw, drill bits, scrapers etc to hollow out my 1979 v20 fisherman transom last year.

I used nida-bond pourable.

Advice: Take your time. Get the mush out. Then let it sit for a day. Then go back. The wood will soften.

Don’t go crazy, but make sure the top layers of plywood de-lam from the skins.

The stringers don’t attach to the transom on my model.

Use a hose, fill the cavity. Look for leaks. Glass over these leaks. The pourable compound will find them and flow right through. Aluminum ducting tape can work for small clean holes, but if its in a rough/faired area, just glass over. Or use a quality fibre putty.

fill to the main height. Then cap with glass. Fill both sides. Cap again. Work your way up as high as you can. It finds a natural level.

It works well! Just don’t look @ your stringers. It will make you want to tear the whole boat apart...

[JeanF]

You will probably have to give arjay a call and see who their distributor is in your area.


I did it. I called the sale departement and here's what i received from them:

Bonjour and Hello, Jean!

Thanks for your interest with the Arjay 6011 Ceramic Pourable Compound. You may order it through Carbon Core. Their number is: 434-227-0839 (tel:434-227-0839).

Sincerely,

Chris Davis

Well... the companie is based in Virginia !!! :fight: ( http://www.carbon-core.com/contact.htm ) nothing more closed of my home ???? as far as you know... something closer of the border of Vermont, Maine or New Hampshire. I can't beleive Boston don't have that stuff??? :pray:

[Roycie]

Have you researched a prod called Sani-Tred??

[JeanF]

Have you researched a prod called Sani-Tred??
No, never heard of thenm ... Have you did a transom whit this produc0t ?

[Destroyer]

I think you might be a little confused Roycie. They're talking about replacing a rotted out transom. Sani-Tred is a waterproofing compound. It might be great for the outside of the bilge skin of the fiberglass, but it's an elastic polymer and will not fill the void that a transom replacement requires. Plus, the last thing you want is a transom that flexes.

The problem with our boats is that the transom is made of marine plywood, with fiberglass laminated to both the inside and outside faces, effectively encapsulating the wood. But people drill holes in the transom to mount things like transducers, speed pitot's, battery hold downs, bilge pumps, etc., etc, and then they don't properly seal those holes. Over time, water seeps into the plywood through those holes and rots the wooden core, weakening the transom and making operating the boat with a large, heavy engine hanging on it unsafe. In fact, there was just such a disaster off the Jersey shore last year, where the transom cracked open and the boat sank.

The easy cure for this is to take off the top cap of the transom, hollow out all the wood and then pour a compound into that void to fill the space with a hard substance that doesn't rot, will support the weight of a large engine and the torque forces associated with that, plus can handle to force of the engine pushing on it, and it, in turn, pushing the rest of the boat hull through the water. The not as easy cure is to remove one of the sides of the fiberglass, remove all the rotted wood and replace it with new marine grade plywood, then replace the removed panel and fiberglass everything back together. Properly done, both solutions work effectively, but since the pourable transom repair will never rot out like the wooden repair, it's the process of choice.

Hope this helps clear up the misunderstanding.

[Roycie]

Thank you for the straightening out... You are right... as much as I have researched it I should know better.... I am in the process of redoing a V20 and have a post showing some of the progress..

We all need help some more than others.. Thanks again

[Destroyer]

Thank you for the straightening out... You are right... as much as I have researched it I should know better.... I am in the process of redoing a V20 and have a post showing some of the progress..

We all need help some more than others.. Thanks again

Happy to help. That's ultimately what we're all here for. Looking forward to seeing pics of your project.

[JeanF]

So... virginia.... Man it´s so far! I ca***324;t beleive arjay can ´ t be found anywhere else!.... Someone kneow if a list of distributors exist?

[bgreene]

I understand the transom may become solid this way..........but what's holding this newly filled / cured transom to the rest of the boat ?

It's still supporting the engine, torque, wave action etc so what keeps the rock hard transom from falling off, engine included ?

[Huron Blue]

I've done two transom repairs with seacoast http://www.transomrepair.net I would highly recommend it!! I used a chainsaw and welding a chisel on the end of a 3/8 rod so I could scrape the transom clean. Took about 2 hrs to clean out the transon. Gotta be real careful not to go too low. I cut my transducer wire by accident but if that's all that went wrong no problem. ha Then I used a heat gun on low for several hours to dry it completely out. One of the things I did I was soooo glad I did was make myself a wedge shaped funnel to help guide the stuff down the transom. It would have been a COMPLETE mess otherwise! I had my son hold the 'funnel' which was a huge help! Bump the back of the transom with a rubber mallet ever so often to make sure it settles down. This stuff is STICKY!!! I also used a 2by and clamps to keep the transom nice and straight. Had I not down this it would have budged out I think. I found a pc of 'U' channel aluminum on eBay to cap it all. You will notice it get warm,,,, then HOT!! You have about 1/2hr working time. Mix in the shade and keep the stuff cool the night before aka in the shade or whatever. Makes a big difference on working time. So how good is it? Well I put the engine on by the afternoon and could jump up and down on the engine with ZERO flex in the transom. But the real test was a year later. I hit a rock going 15-20 MPH. Engine flew up and bounced back down. HARD! Didn't even faze the transom. Still solid as a rock. I really don't know what more you could ask for. I highly recommend the stuff. Worth every penny. Nice people too any questions they are real people ready to help.

[Huron Blue]

Two more pics

oh and one more thing it helped to have a pc of 3/4 pine to sort of push the stuff down the funnel and push it sideways inside the transom.

and I got the pictures in the wrong order but you get the idea...

[Huron Blue]

I understand the transom may become solid this way..........but what's holding this newly filled / cured transom to the rest of the boat ?

It's still supporting the engine, torque, wave action etc so what keeps the rock hard transom from falling off, engine included ?
I didn't have any problem and it was wasted! It's usually not too bad by the sides of the boat.

[Redloon]

Huron Blue,

Thanks for the information. One question on using the Seacast - How did you check for leaks into the bilge area before pouring the Seacast?

It looks like you used Duct Tape to seal the engine mounting holes on the outer transom skin. Did you use that on the inner skin also?

I'm thinking of using Seacast after cleaning out the rotten transom wood on my project. I was thinking of pouring water into the cavity between the outer skin and the inner skin - that for sure would show any potential holes where the Seacast could flow into the bilge.