Repowering V20- looking for some input

[Bosts1]

My old Yamaha 175 precision blend is finally kicking the bucket. Its been a good motor but was not taken care of long before I got it. 8 solid years of running with 0 costs except oil and gas.
So i got what i consider to be a deal on a 200 hpdi that is used but well taken care of. What I am wondering is, while i have the engine off should i slap a manual jack plate on there to make repowering a little easier in the future(I plan to keep this boat forever and will likely keep repowering.) and have the ability to tune out the engine height without pulling the motor and raising it on the holes? I was thinking a cmc manual jack plate. It has 4.5-5' set back. However this motor is about 75 lbs heavier than my current one...will that push my stern down too far have 75 more lbs setback 5"?
Also is anyone running a Yamaha 200 HPDI on a v20, I am curious to what performance and fuel burn i can get. Trying to decide where to start with finding the right prop. Thanks in advance guys.

[spareparts]

unless you've got money to burn, don't worry about the jack plate. If you like to mess with stuff and try to get the absolute optimum performance out of something, then yes, but if you're most likely to bolt it on and call it good enough, spend the money on servicing the HPDI. Just move the batteries forward in the boat if you're concerned about weight, it shouldn't be that much of a deal. If you run the jack plate, note that you may issues with the steering cable(or hoses), control cable and harness being too short. Check this out before you decide to bolt it on. The v is a good hull and dialing it in on a jack plate should get you better numbers, but most people that run V's are trying to get the nose down, not pick it up, so setting the engine back may have a negative effect depending on how you run your boat. If I had a plate laying around, I'd probably run it, but I don't think I'd go out of my way to get one.

[Bosts1]

Thanks Spare, that is the kind of info I was looking for. I am trying to decide if i want to go ahead and replace the cables while I am at it. I have an old 703 control in there that is a bit worn out. If I don't go with a jackplate then I can use the cables and get a new binnacle. If I go with jackplate I am going to have to get new steering and throttle cables. Decisions, decisions. Where would you start with mounting the engine as far as height is concerned. I haven't ever mounted an outboard this size.

[smokeonthewater]

I agree... Don't bother w the plate... 1 or 2 mph on the top end is not worth the several hundred you'll spend on a j/p and cables...

Start with the anti ventilation plate parallel and even with or up to 1" above the keel.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Don't waste the money on a jack plate. It just isn't worth it. Run your bolts through from the hull side through the engine, and put the nuts on the engine side. This way the bolts can stay in place if you need to raise or lower the engine later on.

[Bosts1]

Ferm thats a good idea. Is that a long term solution? Or just do that for test runs? This V is going through some gelcoat work soon as well and I might take the engine off for that too, but I wanted to get a new water line mark with the change in weight. Thanks guys!

[THEFERMANATOR]

That's how I mount mine. Just make sure the hole is coated in 5200 when the bolt goes in as well as a good coat of 5200 on the bolt.

[smokeonthewater]

That's how I mount mine. Just make sure the hole is coated in 5200 when the bolt goes in as well as a good coat of 5200 on the bolt.

I use only stainless bolts n put em in from the inside with plenty of 5200 as well.

[spareparts]

I don't use 5200, I may have to take them out at some point, I use Life Seal Silicone, works pretty good and its not as permanent as 5200

[smokeonthewater]

a dead blow hammer pops out a 5200 sealed transom bolt easy as pie....

[Bosts1]

So are you saying if nuts go outside the transom you can take off motor and move and not completely reseal everything? Seems risky. I believe mine now is bolted on nuts against the motor. I will be putting a motor plate on top bolts and checking the transom good while its off. I have never drilled in it and found wet though. Always good light dusty shavings on the bits!

[randlemanboater]

That is a great idea, bolts on the inside...my motor could use to be moved up a hole, but I didnt want to mess with undoing and redoing the 5200. Bolts on the inside, no problemo.

The simplest things make my day sometimes.

[smokeonthewater]

So are you saying if nuts go outside the transom you can take off motor and move and not completely reseal everything? Seems risky.

5200 is tenacious stuff.... as long as the bolt is not allowed to turn in the hole the 5200 will hold up just fine... that said... a lil 'clean n reseal' on the outside of the transom wouldn't hurt a thing but you shouldn't have to pull the bolts out unless you let em turn... You'd pretty much have to WANT to mess it up.

[inaforty]

Listen to Spareparts.
Have that HPDI serviced. Do the VST filter. Have the injectors pulled, cleaned and flow tested (they should be clean every 5th season).
One lean injector makes for a bad day.

[Bosts1]

Its on its way here now. Its going to my mechanics shop first thing. It has new injectors and filters but, he's going to run through it and check it out.

[reelapeelin]

Its on its way here now. Its going to my mechanics shop first thing. It has new injectors and filters but, he's going to run through it and check it out.

Long time member, "Pipe Dream" has been running a 200 HPDI since '03 or '04 on an '84 cuddy....look up his boat in the Gallery...some great boat porn there...

Where did you find your new motor...and do you mind telling how much you paid for it?