Question about Kwik poly

[Striper80]

I have an 82 Grady White Tarpon(tournament) 190. I pulled the 89 110 V4 to put my 96 Johnson on to test it out. When I removed it I decided to pull the aluminum trim and take a look at the transom. I wasn't happy to see that it was a wet and seemed to be rotten. I saw someone on here mentioned using quick poly on a transom before. I was just wondering if they dried it out first? My newer motor is a long shaft so I have to use a jack plate so it's going to have more leverage on the transom. When I tilted the original motor up all the way and jumped up and down it didn't flex but now I'm a little worried. I was thinking of trying the quick poly and putting an 1/8" thick aluminum angle over it to re-enforce it.

[smokeonthewater]

It actually WON'T have any more leverage on the transom from the longer shaft... tho the set back of the jack plate would add a little.....

Yes I would think the wood would have to be dry to be able to soak anything into it

[THEFERMANATOR]

You need to dry the wood out as best you can, then get a drill bit and drill a few holes in the middle of it to let the epoxy soak in and penetrate the wood. I've done this on rotted transoms before, and was surprised at how stout they were afterwards. Open it up and put a halogen light next to it for a few days to dry it out some, then do the kwik poly to it.

[Striper80]

Thanks that's what I'll do. How much did you have to use to do it?

[THEFERMANATOR]

Thanks that's what I'll do. How much did you have to use to do it?

It all depends on how rotted or dry the wood is. The two 1 gallon jug kit isn't priced that bad, and should more than do the job. Just keep it cool after you open it, or else it will kick off in the container. Also keep in mind you have very little working time with kwik poly once it is combined in a container for use. So don't mix it until your ready to apply it.

[Striper80]

I ordered the 2 qt kit earlier today to start. I'm going to cut the rest of the cap off and hit it with an infrared heat lamp for a little while.
I was wondering if you used any filler to fill tge 1/4" holes or you just used the straight kwik poly?

[THEFERMANATOR]

I just use the kwik poly. It is STRONG stuff. I would also reccomend some rubber gloves as this stuff will get into your fingers as well as it soaks into wood.

[Striper80]

Thanks a lot for your help. Hopefully it does the trick.

[smokeonthewater]

I would suggest drilling a few drain holes at the bottom if the transom... Any pooled water can drain there.... When pouring the resin you can tape the holes or plug w wood pegs when/if the resin reaches the holes.

[Striper80]

Hopefully ill get to start this weekend. I'm going to drill a few holes into the core from the outside to see how far down the core is wet. From tapping it doesn't seem like its wet below about halfway between the upper and lower mounting bolts. Ill know for sure once I drill it. Once I get the core straightened out I'm going to glass the top in with some 1708 and Gelcoat it.

[cfelton]

Never heard of Kwik Poly, but I have used GitRot and it worked good. Gitrot soaks into rotten wood and hardens it back up. Don't know how strong it would make it. The transom was rotten on my V when I bought it, cut it out from the inside and replaced it all. Hope the kwikpoly works well for you. Let us know!

[macojoe]

If its wewt up top its going to be wet at bottom!! Do as said drill a few holes in the bottom and let drain before doing, then wet some golf t's with the resin an hammer them it when dry cut iff and top with resin and your done

[THEFERMANATOR]

Never heard of Kwik Poly, but I have used GitRot and it worked good. Gitrot soaks into rotten wood and hardens it back up. Don't know how strong it would make it. The transom was rotten on my V when I bought it, cut it out from the inside and replaced it all. Hope the kwikpoly works well for you. Let us know!

I've used both, and KWIK POLY wins hands down. It costs a fraction as much, soaks into the wood ALOT deeper, and hardens up alot better.

[Striper80]

I've used git rot in the past and thrilled with the results. It was also ridiculously expensive compared to the kwik poly. I was hoping to get it before the weekend but unfortunately I didn't. Hopefully I'll get to cut into the transom a little this weekend. I'm itching to get on the water.

[Striper80]

I cut the cap off today. The wood was wet across the top and a bit rotten but not as bad as I was expecting. I drilled a number of holes down in different areas and I found the transom was moist but nowhere near as wet as I was expecting. I found that when I drilled down it took about 2" before I hit something real solid. Right now I have the infrared lamp on it drying it out.

[smokeonthewater]

I suggest that you get an auger bit and a chisel and remove all the rotten stuff... then drill lots of smaller holes deep into the good wood and refill with a pourable transom product

[Striper80]

I was thinking about that, but before I do any chiseling or drilling I'm going to dry it out and assess the damage.
I'm stuck right now. I bought this boat to hang my 130 on then the engine on it turned to be good but the transom was messed up. In the mean time I got a smoking good deal on my 22WA. Now I've got 2 boats and 3 engines. The kicker is that a few V20s needing repower have come up for sale which is what I wanted all along, go figure.
On it's dried out ill drill it and test out the kwik poly and go from there.

[bradford]

Nothing wrong with having a few boats around. Interested in hearing your results on the transom.

[Striper80]

Nothing wrong with having a few boats around. Interested in hearing your results on the transom.

If it were up to me is have a lot more than 2 boats and 2 cars.

[Striper80]

I painted the top of the transom with the kwik poly today and it solidified it right away. Next step will be to drill down through the core and pour it down. So far I'm happy with the results. Dried quick and hard.

[scook]

I'm not representing that i know anything, but read on wood boat forum a post by a 90+ year old chemical engineer who talked about using antifreeze to kill rot before sealing it up. His points were that: 1) It's not approved for the use, so you're on your own to use it safely; 2) It kills pretty much everything, including rot organisms; 3) It chases moisture like crazy (he gave an example of moisture it sucked out ot the air - left an open container in his lab and the weight increased dramatically in a short period of time), so it should follow the damp wood to its end. He said he had been using it in his wood boat repairs for years and at over 90, he must not have suffered too much from the toxicity (he always let it dry and sealed it in as I recall). I think he had some comments about the epoxy treatments, but it's been a while and I don't remember specifics.

[scook]

I just Googled "wood boat forum antifreeze" - if you're interested, there are LOTS of articles on treating rot with antifreeze.

[Striper80]

I've heard that before. I've also read that it inhibits the absorbtion of poly or epoxy. Ill check it out though.

[Striper80]

I finally figured out how to post pics. This is what I started with.
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a414/cheitzmann1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpse40536e0.jpg
Now after a lot of drying and drilling.
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a414/cheitzmann1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps442c73df.jpg
She's not done yet but a lot stronger.

[Striper80]

Did some grinding yesterday.
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a414/cheitzmann1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsae012a25.jpg
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a414/cheitzmann1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsf354d16f.jpg

I'm going to open it up more. I'm thinking of glassing the whole seam with 1708 and gelcoating it. Can't believe how strong the kwik poly made it.

[spoggy]

I've heard that before. I've also read that it inhibits the absorbtion of poly or epoxy. Ill check it out though.
I found this:

"Hi Trevlyns,

There's more than one type of anti-freeze so if you're going to use anti-freeze be sure to use the stuff that is made of Ethylene Glycol ***8211; not Propylene Glycol and not any other type of glycol. I prefer using pure Ethylene Glycol from a chemical supplier because it will not have any "water pump lubricant" or any other engine additives in it that might create problems with the epoxy's bond to the wood.

A 50/50 dilution of EG has been shown by West Systems to enhance their epoxy's bond with the wood they tested in on. I suspect the same effect will occur with most other epoxies. Dave Carnell (retired professional chemist) thinks this enhanced bonding occurs because the EG "opens the pores" in the wood thus allowing the epoxy to soak in deeper.

Ethylene Glycol is not a primer, sealer, coating or drying agent. After applying it you should give the wood plenty of time to dry out before using adhesives, finishes or sealants. Just finish the boat as if you didn't even use EG and you'll be fine.

I usually epoxy encapsulate the wood in my boats after treating it with EG because my theory is that this will effectively entrap the EG in the wood and provide the longest lasting protection against rot. Unfortunately I haven't been using it long enough to know if this is true or not, but from a logical basis it seems to "make sense".

On the other hand, you can just as easily leave the inside of your boat bare so you can repeat your EG treatments on occasion by brushing it on the inside of the hull every so often. You can even paint the inside of your boat with
common paints such as 100% acrylic latexes and oil-based enamels then re-treat through the paint because EG molecules are small enough to pass through the above types of paints. Note that this won't work if you use epoxy or polyurethane based coatings since these chemicals do not let the EG through.

Do not heat or spray Ethylene Glycol because these actions will vaporize it, then you might inhale enough to make you sick or worse. Just apply it at room temperature with a brush or roller and it won't hurt you permanently even if you splash it on your skin or get it in your eyes. Some people might feel a stinging sensation if this happens, but that irritation goes away when they wash it off.

I don't usually bother with protective gear while using EG because it does not absorb into the skin readily, and I do not drink it. Nevertheless I would strongly recommend that you use gloves and eye protection and keep it out of reach of children and pets so they don't poison themselves accidentally. Better safe than sorry, right?"

Here's the link: http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/fiberglass-composite-boat-building/ethylene-glycol-wood-preservative-17739.html

Make me wonder, if repairing a smaller area of wood core on say, the transom, it wouldn't be easier to remove a small amount of the damaged wood. Then, treat with EG and pour on the epoxy?

[randlemanboater]

Interesting stuff.

[Striper80]

They're talking about wooden boats. If you used eg on a cored fiberglass boat the core would never dry.

[RidgeRunner]

Old dog, learning here. Good stuff. Thank you!

[Striper80]

I'm kind of figuring it out as I go along. I'm thinking that maybe I should've just cut it all out with a chainsaw and poured it. It feels strong so far but we'll see. It would suck if once I'm done glassing it and gelcoating to have it be weak.
I built up the area between the cap and top of the transom with 1708. I'm going to grind the whole seam down and glass it together. Then I'll put the engine on and run it. Its been tough budgeting my time between my Wellcraft and Grady.
http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/a414/cheitzmann1/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsc5798044.jpg

[bradford]

Its been tough budgeting my time between my Wellcraft and Grady.


1st World problems my friend!

[Striper80]

I decided to cut open the transom cap. I found the wood going up to the top of the transom was in worse shape than expected. I decided to gut the transom and go with seacast or another pourable material. It stinks because I had to cut out the glasswork and repaired wood.

[THEFERMANATOR]

I decided to cut open the transom cap. I found the wood going up to the top of the transom was in worse shape than expected. I decided to gut the transom and go with seacast or another pourable material. It stinks because I had to cut out the glasswork and repaired wood.
OUCH! That KWIK POLY treated wood is some TOUGH stuff.