Frozen Steering cable (a how to)

[Stinky_Hooker]

I know most on here know this as its regular boat maintenance to me but I thought Id throw this little write up on here I did for any newbies that if may help out.

This is something Ive done many times and seen alot of people ask about so I thought while I was doing mine today Id take a few pics if it would help anyone out.

90% of the time its the cable frozen in the outboard tilt tube and not a bad steering unit. The reason this happens is because of the differential in metals. Steering cable ends are stainless while most outboard tubes are cast aluminum. A permanent fix it to change your tilt tube out to stainless if you can find one. Most mercurys are stainless so Ive used those where I could in the past to "upgrade" tubes on an outboard whenever possible.

Anyways, this is how Ive done it for years and thought Id share.


Remove the steering cable first. You disconnect the linkage arm and loosen the large but holding it onto the tube. When they are really froaen like this one I did today I beat it out with a hammer and then use a long 3/8" socket extension to pound it out the rest of the way. You may mar up the end a little but thats ok, we will fix that later. Once its out I clean off the cable by extentind it (turn the steering wheel) and wipe off with carb cleaner of thinner and a rag.

I have a plumbing bottle brush that I cut off and welded onto an old 16" long paddle bit. You could use any piece of steel rod or a gun cleaning kit with extension will work with a 20, 16, or 12 gauge brass bor brush. I run it in and out with a cordless drill and use carb cleaner or heavy duty degreaser.



http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jwoolums1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_141712_zps6uispvca.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/jwoolums1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_141712_zps6uispvca.jpg.html)



http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jwoolums1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_140445_zpsnsnfbvun.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/jwoolums1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_140445_zpsnsnfbvun.jpg.html)




Once Ive made enough passes through and blown out all the rust, grease and dirt I then add a cut piece of 60-100 grit sand paper and wrap around the brush. It will be tight but force it and it will go. I grind the tube out to help loosen up and tough rust and really clean it well.










http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jwoolums1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_142447_zpsdidytkeu.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/jwoolums1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_142447_zpsdidytkeu.jpg.html)


You can see here alot of the dirt and rust that came out.


http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jwoolums1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_141720_zpsoahiahyq.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/jwoolums1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_141720_zpsoahiahyq.jpg.html)


I forgot to get a picture through the tube but its as clean and shiny as a new rifle bore. Now I regrease the tube and cable and reassemble. It is also at this point that I will take a grinder with a sanding disc or a file and clean up any hammer marks or denting in the tip of the steering line steel if needed.






http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jwoolums1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_143410_zpstkk9zsrd.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/jwoolums1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_143410_zpstkk9zsrd.jpg.html)





Presto, back together and smooth as silk.





http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag452/jwoolums1/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_144619_zps2fvgldii.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/jwoolums1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140209_144619_zps2fvgldii.jpg.html)

[bradford]

Excellent write up Stink!

[Destroyer]

Stinky, that's a good post. I'm sure that there's a lot of people that didn't know how to do what you just showed. And even more that don't do it as a yearly maintenance item. So much money and time can be saved by simply following your directions. Well done!!! :clap:

[bradford]

Something I do is RUN my outboard about every week or so during the off season. When I do I always rotate the steering back and forth 3 or 4 times to keep everything moving as well as add some grease about twice a year, not too much though.

[SkunkBoat]

unfortunately, on the 84 V20 I can't get the cable out with the motor mounted.
:head::bat:

[Stinky_Hooker]

unfortunately, on the 84 V20 I can't get the cable out with the motor mounted.
:head::bat:

My 18 was that way after I installed the jack plate and ran the steering through the transom. I just unbolted the plates and lifted it enough to remove with an engine lift then re installed.

[Destroyer]

I keep mentioning this simple, cheap, easy way to avoid most of the steering problems, so I'll do it one more time.

Buy a STEERSMAN NUT for the steering cable!! They used to be called Widget nuts. They are available from West's Marine or online. If you're in salt, buy the stainless one. If you boat in fresh, get the aluminum. Either way, they are simply a great way to avoid most steering cable problems.

Simply put: The grease fitting you see on your tilt tube DOES NOT lube your steering cable. It only lubes the tilt tube itself. But a Steersman's Nut goes on the end of the tilt tube, (replacing the nut that is on there now), and when you pump grease into it that grease is forced into the end of your steering cable, lubing it and also keeping water out. The whole changeover should take no more than 5 minutes, and it WILL save you hours and hours of time and tons of money spent replacing your steering cable because it never got lubed properly.

Understand, there's nothing wrong with what Stinky posted. In fact, it's the proper way to maintain your cable and tube. But the Steersman nut will lengthen that cleaning interval to every other year, or even every third year with zero problems in between. It simply works.

You can also find them here: http://www.steersman.com/html/whatitdoes.html

[bradford]

Gonna install one on my '85, Destroyer. Thanks!

[Genie Aye]

Or avoid the issue all together---hydraulic steering..:party::nice: