View Full Version : 140 hp Johnson
shurlock
02-17-2014, 07:42 PM
my brand new boat failed first day out ran balls to the wall for the first 20 minutes got about 1 mile out and she died I have Spark and am getting gas any ideas on this engine. it is the original gas that I bought the boat with possible bad gas? but then I don't know why it would run for 20 minutes.
spareparts
02-17-2014, 07:56 PM
start with a compression test. Then take a fuel sample. Pull the fuel line off, squeeze the primer bulb and let some fill a jar or clear jug. Come back with a report of compression and condition of the gas
shurlock
02-17-2014, 07:59 PM
Ok will do
steplift20
02-19-2014, 09:21 PM
ok I dont know 1/3 as much as these guys on this site but first thing i would check is the water sepperator filter if you have one, take it off and dump the fuel in a glass jar to see if theres water in it and dont reuse the filter put on a new one if you have a water sepperator thats the first thing i would check, could also be a stator but i dont know how to check it . the way i checked mine is i took it to my mechanic and he checked it and replaced it 300 dollars later
shurlock
02-22-2014, 04:17 PM
ok everyone removed fuel seporator and everything looked good. just to be on the safe side got a new small tank of mix gas removed bowl drains on all four carburators. i pumped untill fresh gas came out, put it all back together and attemped to start. NOTHING. now this is where it gets scary got compression tester and as follows:
#1 @ 30 psi
#2 @ 29 psi
#3 @ 0 psi
#4 @ 30 psi
AM I REALLY SCREWED HERE?
Hedge
02-22-2014, 05:32 PM
I say yes...Sorry to see that. The numbers should be around 90-115 ( could be as high as 140) or so range and no more than a 10 psi variance
bradford
02-22-2014, 05:59 PM
Dam, Sorry to see that Shurlock.
At least you know where you stand with it though. Sometimes I'd rather it be completley dead though rather just hanging on, causing you to spend more money on an old engine.
phatdaddy
02-22-2014, 07:13 PM
hard to believe it ran at all with those #'s. when it died, did it bog down or was it like your key was turned off. when you attempted to restart did it spin freely or was it binding and sounded like the battery was weak.
i'd pull the heads and look in the cylinders anyway, easy to do and nothing to lose.
smokeonthewater
02-22-2014, 08:06 PM
Did you do the compression test with a fully charged battery and at full throttle?
And um yes.... Time to find a new engine
shurlock
02-23-2014, 02:44 AM
tried the compression tests turning it by hand, I also tried the compression test using the starter motor from the engine. I tried the compression test with the motor advanced and also with the throttle open.I even tried removing the Schrader valve thinking there was a restriction. all the same. I purchased the service manual for the Johnson. will read it and pull one of the heads tomorrow and let you know what I see. "spareparts" I am looking forward to hearing from you. "Spareparts" seemed very knowledgeable about the engine wish I followed compression test first.
shurlock
02-23-2014, 02:59 AM
By the way guys just wanted to let you all know, bought the boat next day went out for sea trial. start it up first crank it jumped to life, then ran almost a mile at WOT Then died like I turned off the key. feeling guilty that maybe I should have drained gas, and started new. by the way almost 3 a.m. Here in Florida had a few to drink !!!
THEFERMANATOR
02-23-2014, 10:09 AM
Compression should be roughly 140-150 for a 140 looper. Small bore and big bore V4's both ran pretty high compression. Most likely you put the screws to it with bad fuel and leaned it out. Loopers HATE being run lean, and will smear the pistons in a HURRY. It only takes an overheat for about 15 seconds to smear a piston in one. They are AWESOME engines when setup and running right, but one little problem and they will self destruct in a matter of seconds. The T-stats and bypass valve can also cause this to happen. You want the engien to idle at about 150-170 degrees, but at WOT you want it to drop back to about 125 to keep from sticking a piston.
spareparts
02-23-2014, 10:27 AM
Ferm and Skools Out are the looper experts around here.But sounds like your motor is dead. If you want to eliminate another variable, try your compression tester in another engine to make sure its reading correctly or try another compression tester on your engine. Next step, pull the heads and take a look.
shurlock
02-23-2014, 01:29 PM
opened it up walls of the cylinder are very scored. here is a picture. looks like motor was never properly flushed out heavy corrosion.
phatdaddy
02-23-2014, 04:27 PM
actually corrosion doesn't look that bad for a 20 something year old engine ran in salt water.
just one scored cyl or were they all harmed? are you sure the gas had oil in it?
shurlock
02-23-2014, 05:31 PM
the Pistons walls were just scored not hammered not sure if the previous owner had oil in it I know the VRO was disconnected and he said he was using Mix
spareparts
02-23-2014, 06:49 PM
thats melted aluminum from the piston stuck to the walls of the cylinder
phatdaddy
02-23-2014, 07:38 PM
spare, is that lack of oil or overheat?
shurlock, i said harmed, not hammered, was wondering if all cyl looked the same
THEFERMANATOR
02-23-2014, 08:55 PM
spare, is that lack of oil or overheat?
shurlock, i said harmed, not hammered, was wondering if all cyl looked the same
Look at the pistom dome, that engine LEANED OUT BAD! theres not even a trace of black carbon or soot on it. A looper should always have some sort of soot on the piston dome when they are jetted to live, and there should be some traces of wetness.
Looking at your pics it looks like a small bore engine which were ALWAYS prone to overheating due to there design. Where are you located at?
spareparts
02-23-2014, 09:36 PM
Look at the pistom dome, that engine LEANED OUT BAD! theres not even a trace of black carbon or soot on it. A looper should always have some sort of soot on the piston dome when they are jetted to live, and there should be some traces of wetness.
Looking at your pics it looks like a small bore engine which were ALWAYS prone to overheating due to there design. Where are you located at?
what he said
shurlock
02-23-2014, 10:14 PM
all other cylinders heads had carbon dust all over them, wish I took more pictures before I put it all back together. maybe a little scoring on one other cylinder but nothing like that one.
shurlock
02-23-2014, 10:24 PM
jumping on and off forum, some of my posts are from my phone. while dealing with kids ranging from 5 to 18 years old 4 in total. I live in south Florida.
bradford
02-24-2014, 12:53 AM
There's a guy in Zephyrhills that works on those who knows his chit.
THEFERMANATOR
02-24-2014, 10:10 AM
There's a guy in Zephyrhills that works on those who knows his chit.
I might still have a good 140 powerhead outside to.
randlemanboater
02-24-2014, 10:12 AM
I might still have a good 140 powerhead outside to.
There you go.
shurlock
02-24-2014, 04:24 PM
that would be cool what would you want for it? :sly:
shurlock
02-25-2014, 02:05 PM
THEFREMANATOR, have you by any chance taken a look if you have a 140 hp power head?:pray2:
THEFERMANATOR
02-25-2014, 04:48 PM
THEFREMANATOR, have you by any chance taken a look if you have a 140 hp power head?:pray2:
Yep I still have it. It needs a few things from sitting, but it isn't locked up(all I had a chance to check was if it still turned, and it rotated a fuell revolution no problem). It hasn't ran for about 4 years, so I would put head gaskets on it and a few other things. I'll PM you a price if your interested in it.
THEFERMANATOR
03-23-2014, 10:37 AM
ok everyone removed fuel seporator and everything looked good. just to be on the safe side got a new small tank of mix gas removed bowl drains on all four carburators. i pumped untill fresh gas came out, put it all back together and attemped to start. NOTHING. now this is where it gets scary got compression tester and as follows:
#1 @ 30 psi
#2 @ 29 psi
#3 @ 0 psi
#4 @ 30 psi
AM I REALLY SCREWED HERE?
I just checked my 140 and it has
#1 150
#2 145
#3 150
#4 150
Don't sound to bad either.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT13k0TEVWk&feature=youtu.be
spareparts
03-23-2014, 01:43 PM
:clap::clap::clap::clap:
THEFERMANATOR
03-23-2014, 02:28 PM
shurlock left here about 12:30 with it on its way to her new home after he heard it run. Hated to see it go as it has been such a good engine for me once I learned how to work on loopers(and the things NOT to do to them), but hopefully she lives on for many more years instead of sitting in my power corner. Hopefully this summer I can get bradfords old engine(the one next to it in the video) torn down, bore the bad hole in it, and get it back together.
phatdaddy
03-23-2014, 05:45 PM
nice job ferm, that's the beauty 0f this site.
Destroyer
03-23-2014, 08:02 PM
shurlock left here about 12:30 with it on its way to her new home after he heard it run. Hated to see it go as it has been such a good engine for me once I learned how to work on loopers(and the things NOT to do to them), but hopefully she lives on for many more years instead of sitting in my power corner. Hopefully this summer I can get bradfords old engine(the one next to it in the video) torn down, bore the bad hole in it, and get it back together.
:clap::clap::clap::clap:
shurlock
03-24-2014, 02:19 PM
here is a picture of both of the power heads together just waiting for the powerhead to mid section adapter gasket to come in the mail. going to transfer wire harness and my spark plug wires from my engine and put it on The one from theferminator. if all goes well I will be on the water this weekend.:beer:
thanks again theferminator
p.s. I got a speeding ticket going through Clewiston on the way back Lol that's my luck
shurlock
03-24-2014, 05:27 PM
no patience guys went out and bought the gasket when the other one comes in the mail I'll keep it for a spare for the rebuild on the old one will keep everyone posted
bradford
03-25-2014, 08:53 AM
Great to hear! :clap:
I thought that 225 looked familiar. Y'all she may look old, but I spent a ton of money on her before blowing that cylinder. I hope she treats Ferm right or he can make some bucks on her. I do miss the haul *** factor.
shurlock
04-08-2014, 03:08 PM
hello everyone I have been so incredibly busy with work and my kids I did get a chance to put the engine in and change over the wiring harness started for 2 seconds and then wouldn't start anymore going to have to play with it some more to see what happened just so busy
shurlock
05-13-2014, 03:29 PM
hello everyone missed you all, things have been crazy at work. and I have finals at the end of this month. but I finally had a chance last weekend to get to the engine and I have it running. I had to solder some parts on my wiring harness. kind of a ghetto rig but I'm going to order the new harness from eBay. my grandparents are giving me some money in June as a graduation present. going to use it to buy a kicker motor and some cushions for the cuddy cabin will be looking forward to talking to you all mid June.
shurlock
05-25-2014, 08:38 PM
Thefermanator's powerhead: http://youtu.be/N_WQRFCnJPY
bradford
05-26-2014, 10:17 AM
Sweet!
THEFERMANATOR
05-26-2014, 02:33 PM
That was always a good strong running engine for me after I figured out how to work on loopers. The small bore engine is a little low on torque down low, but once it gets a few RPM's up it is a beast. If you get it propped right it is really good on fuel to. I found propping it to spin up to 5800 RPM's or so WOT is where it was happiest. If you load it much harder it drank alot more fuel, and much less and it guzzled at cruise. Get it in it's sweet spot and it would burn about 6 GPH at a 3800 RPM cruise. Get it off and it would suck down 9-10 at the same RPM's.
shurlock
05-26-2014, 02:33 PM
second run top speed 33 miles per hour Florida Everglades:nice::nice:
140 hp Johnson second run after powerhead changed: https://youtu.be/8lZU2lBUo14
THEFERMANATOR
05-27-2014, 11:39 PM
second run top speed 33 miles per hour Florida Everglades:nice::nice:
140 hp Johnson second run after powerhead changed: https://youtu.be/8lZU2lBUo14
Do you have a working tach on it? Sounds like your turning maybe 5K RPM's which is way to low. I would expect alot closer to 40 or low 40's out of that engine on that boat. I know that 140 would hang would just about any 150 on a simliar boat, and 150's will push a V-20 to 40-42 no problem. Also it looks like your getting alot of spray off the foot, so your engine may be mounted to low. Check to see what prop you have on it as you should be spinning a 15 pitch stainless, anything bigger and it will bog the engine down. And that 1.8L engine HATES being lugged, it likes RPM's. The limiter in it is set at 6100, and I used to prop it so that if I trimmed it just a tad high it would bump the limiter. That always gave me the best fuel milage, and the best power out of it.
inaforty
05-28-2014, 06:32 PM
Ferm and Spare,
You guys are a wealth of info.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.:clap:
shurlock
05-29-2014, 08:36 AM
tachometer is currently not working will have to buy one I have one that you hold on the flywheel sounds a little dangerous though. there is a fairly large aluminum prop on there not sure the pitch will find out soon
THEFERMANATOR
05-29-2014, 09:15 AM
A 15 pitch prop should put you where you need to be with that engine. Over propping or mounting the engine will lug the engine, and lead to a very short lifespan. 2 strokes HATE being over propped, and is a HUGE killer of powerheads. This is why EVINRUDE now sets up each and every boat sold with an ETEC as it was found improper setup was the cause of almost all of the early ETEC failures. Under propping and spinning it up to high isn't that bad, but over propping and over loading will kill one in a HURRY!
Skools Out
07-06-2014, 09:41 PM
Ferms right it sounds like it lacking in RPM's I was running a 13 x 15 stainless on the same motor and getting 42 on mine at 5900 rpm.
Skools Out
07-06-2014, 09:42 PM
if it were a V6 175 200 or 225 it would be best with a 15 x 17 stainless
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