rebuilding my V

[cterrebonne]

I moved the boat up here from "down the bayou" this week. I haven't been able to do much except wash the mildew off the side of the hull. It has been raining non-stop for the last month it seems. Hopefully this weekend I can get everything out that needs to be out in order to remove the cap. Then I can really start to access the stringer and transom situation. Here is a pic of her.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0173.jpg

[tartuffe]

Glad to see you get started, look forward to seeing progress.

[cterrebonne]

Glad to see you get started, look forward to seeing progress.

thanks, I will be posting better pictures also.

[Destroyer]

CT, that's a good looking lady. I'm sure she will appreciate everything you do to her and will reward you with many more years of great service. Looking forward to seeing pics of your rebuild. :beer:

[Jdog]

Can't wait to see you tear into her, good luck and take your time.
:party:

[cterrebonne]

I was busy today with cleaning up around the house, so I did not have too much time to work on the V but I dud make some progress. I did not realize that the console was that heavy. I have a console from a Frontier that I might use instead. It has a smaller footprint and Is lighter. I would just put an ice chest in front of the console for seating if I were to do that.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0175.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0176.jpg

I am still not sure how the transom was able to crack yet. I did notice that the knees were not tied into the stringers but to the floor of the hull.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0179.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0178.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0177.jpg

thanks for the encouragement! It sure helps in these Louisiana hot summers :beer:

[Shrek]

The center section between those knees is what was flexing badly with the motor on. It was literally the top of the transom flexing outward. I was amazed that we made it back to the dock, let alone back to NOLA from Gulfport with the motor. I was worried that I might have dropped it into traffic.

[jasoncooperpcola]

It will be interesting to see what is found in the transom. Very odd for the transom to break in such a small span.

Why does Wellcraft cut all the rigging holes in the gas tank cover like that? The rotted 18 Fisherman i have had the gas hatch cut the same way and its rotted out.

[cterrebonne]

The center section between those knees is what was flexing badly with the motor on. It was literally the top of the transom flexing outward. I was amazed that we made it back to the dock, let alone back to NOLA from Gulfport with the motor. I was worried that I might have dropped it into traffic.


I remember you saying that. Those cracks are pretty big.

[cterrebonne]

It will be interesting to see what is found in the transom. Very odd for the transom to break in such a small span.

Why does Wellcraft cut all the rigging holes in the gas tank cover like that? The rotted 18 Fisherman i have had the gas hatch cut the same way and its rotted out.

quick and easy i am guessing. I am sure the engineers didn't plan on these boats running for as long as they have been.

[cterrebonne]

I got my grind on today. I caught a break in the rain after supper and I was able to grind away the fiberglass holding the back of the cap onto the hull. I forgot how good a grinding disc works on fiberglass. I say probably 2 hrs of work.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0183.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0182.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0181.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/IMAG0180.jpg

The tyveck suit and gloves and respirator made the job bearable.

[cterrebonne]

Hey guys, I didn't get any work done today but I was trying to figure out how I was going to make a structure to be able to life the top cap out of the bottom hull. I was thinking about taking 2x6x10's and making, basically, swing set with out the swings.

Something like this:

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/HDSWT-212_SwingSet_After_lg.jpg

except using 2x6's

[cterrebonne]

I figured I would give an update and apologize for the previous halt. My business has been extremely busy leaving me with little time to do work on the boat. So, I am going to be outsourcing my transom and stringer job to a local glass guy. Now I just need to decide between a 150 or a big block 200. Any of you guys run a 500 plus pound motor on a bracket on your V?

Also, I am doing some TLC on my trailer a few U-bolts and some leaf spring bolts.

[bradford]

I love my 150, but I run light and don't really need the extra HP.

[reelapeelin]

I figured I would give an update and apologize for the previous halt. My business has been extremely busy leaving me with little time to do work on the boat. So, I am going to be outsourcing my transom and stringer job to a local glass guy. Now I just need to decide between a 150 or a big block 200. Any of you guys run a 500 plus pound motor on a bracket on your V?

Also, I am doing some TLC on my trailer a few U-bolts and some leaf spring bolts.

I remember seeing some CCs w/brackets lookin a little squatty at the stern...Vic managed to get around it some way, though I ain't sure how...I would think a 150 on a CC would go pretty good...a 175 would be a good choice...I'd watch the weight...are you hangin a new one or lookin' for a good used motor?

[cterrebonne]

I remember seeing some CCs w/brackets lookin a little squatty at the stern...Vic managed to get around it some way, though I ain't sure how...I would think a 150 on a CC would go pretty good...a 175 would be a good choice...I'd watch the weight...are you hangin a new one or lookin' for a good used motor?

I am the same boat, I don;t run heavy or fast. I was planning on getting a new E-tec after my boat is done, but I might have to wait until their next free 6 yr extended warranty and riggin promo because I doubt my boat will be ready before this current promotion is over. I was going to go used but I am done with having to make repairs on old engines.

I am still second guessing myself if I should go with a full transom and bracket or just to go with a jackplate on the original transom.

[Shrek]

Close the transom and go with the bracket. I'm so happy with my current boat as a result. Besides, I'd really like to see this rig get the right treatment. Glad to hear you're busy, Case. Let me know how you like your glass guy; gonna have a major project of my own next winter.

[cterrebonne]

Close the transom and go with the bracket. I'm so happy with my current boat as a result. Besides, I'd really like to see this rig get the right treatment. Glad to hear you're busy, Case. Let me know how you like your glass guy; gonna have a major project of my own next winter.

Sorry I just noticed your post after all these months, my glass guy turned down the job because it was too big for him, but he does do really good work. He is very slow. I have a guy out of chauvin who is just as good and has done some work for me in the past. Let me know if you need his number.

[cterrebonne]

Well, I was able to get the cap off my boat today. Was not as bad as I thought it would be. A forklift sure is one of the handiest piece of equipment for the marine industry. I am glad my grand pa picked up a new one last week.

After removing the cap, I am pretty sure I found why the transom was flexing so much. In the pictures below you can see that the rear of the stringers are pretty much gone. Cracked in two places on each side. In addition to that, where they had knees installed, the part that the knees connected to were soft and were cracked also.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/BB5A43EF-4286-47EB-B338-55DFC3862EF5-1116-000002076FE12CE8_zps94f51680.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/BB5A43EF-4286-47EB-B338-55DFC3862EF5-1116-000002076FE12CE8_zps94f51680.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/C7160DE4-41B7-4D0D-809E-FC0915F9FEE7-1116-0000020789799690_zps47c75b9f.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/C7160DE4-41B7-4D0D-809E-FC0915F9FEE7-1116-0000020789799690_zps47c75b9f.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/6EF3332D-D2E2-45E9-B86E-20A22546A1E4-1116-00000207A6BD9EC3_zpsf0907192.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/6EF3332D-D2E2-45E9-B86E-20A22546A1E4-1116-00000207A6BD9EC3_zpsf0907192.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/3B0892C8-6A00-4525-9F29-D27777270EC8-1116-00000207AD41E69B_zpsaa28d7bf.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/3B0892C8-6A00-4525-9F29-D27777270EC8-1116-00000207AD41E69B_zpsaa28d7bf.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/12623F89-04F4-401A-ADD3-7BDEEBFEEDBD-1116-00000207B375C2EF_zps9ed04edb.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/12623F89-04F4-401A-ADD3-7BDEEBFEEDBD-1116-00000207B375C2EF_zps9ed04edb.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/6D38D9DB-C37D-40D8-9079-0FFED4B751EB-1116-00000207B9C9783F_zpsd1e4c8fc.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/6D38D9DB-C37D-40D8-9079-0FFED4B751EB-1116-00000207B9C9783F_zpsd1e4c8fc.jpg.html)

[cterrebonne]

I'm going to try and pour arjay every where I can instead of cutting out and putting ply back in. I can't believe the structure lasted this long with all that exposed wood.

[macojoe]

From what I have heard you CAN NOT Pour that stuff on the wood, you must remove all wood first! I have heard, I have never used the stuff myself.

[cterrebonne]

From what I have heard you CAN NOT Pour that stuff on the wood, you must remove all wood first! I have heard, I have never used the stuff myself.

I did read that too. My idea was to cut the very tops off the stringers and then use an electric chain saw to cut out the old stringers if they don't want to come out easily.

I hope that works, but if it doesn't I might have to use the arjay just in the transom and then replace the stringers with marine tech ply and epoxy.

[cterrebonne]

well finally today I was able to run into NOLA and get my PT Marine Tech Ply. I have been waiting a long time for the stuff to come in and for me to be able to run into the city and pick it up. I was also able to source some arjay from a distributor in nola. Should be in next week.

So I decided that I am goisng to use my existing fiberglass skins as a mold to pour a 1.5" arjay transom. I think 1.5" would workl because I am going to glass some knees in to the stringers and transom.

Anyway here's my score today.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/C50C8B56-A22F-4685-B349-B5C7371ABEC9-5732-000009C5BE7D2E35_zps8d771cf7.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/C50C8B56-A22F-4685-B349-B5C7371ABEC9-5732-000009C5BE7D2E35_zps8d771cf7.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/25875955-CA94-49AA-968E-EE35EF8B8C1E-5732-000009C5C48AB70B_zpse66185d6.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/25875955-CA94-49AA-968E-EE35EF8B8C1E-5732-000009C5C48AB70B_zpse66185d6.jpg.html)

[cterrebonne]

Had some time today to work in the V. I plan on doing the transom 1st and get that squared away before I tackle the stringers.

More glass cut out
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/C0418D20-FDC4-4B4E-8672-106979E7A61C-10368-00001181228F3B6A_zps98b35950.jpg

Stringers were past gone.
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/841DB77C-E645-4BF0-892F-F002F40E9E8F-10368-000011812CADF0E7_zps1d016b94.jpg

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/B4FF5931-9FA3-427D-BB06-7E0E549D9F6D-10368-00001181339ABA32_zps95008498.jpg

[bradford]

I could be wrong, but I thought resin wouldn't stick to pressure treated.

Figured I would say something before we found out the hard way.

[Destroyer]

I could be wrong, but I thought resin wouldn't stick to pressure treated.

Figured I would say something before we found out the hard way.

Hate to say it, but I thought the same thing. Hope I'm wrong...

[cterrebonne]

Hate to say it, but I thought the same thing. Hope I'm wrong...

It normally doesn't due to the moisture content. These are kiln dried, that's the pic of the yellow moisture tag.

Good article

http://www.glen-l.com/wood-plywood/boatbuilding-plywood.html

[Destroyer]

It normally doesn't due to the moisture content. These are kiln dried, that's the pic of the yellow moisture tag.

Good article

http://www.glen-l.com/wood-plywood/boatbuilding-plywood.html


Ahhh....cool. You did your homework. Smart move. Some good data there. Thanks :clap::clap:

[cterrebonne]

Ahhh....cool. You did your homework. Smart move. Some good data there. Thanks :clap::clap:

no problem, I actually learned about the pressure treated stuff from a local glass guy. The stuff is about 20 dollars less than marine fir down here. I think I paid 60 a sheet for 3/4". The only problem is that there is only one place that handles the kiln dried stuff and they are in NOLA. When they get the sheets in which is about 500 per order. It's all sold out with in 2 weeks. Then it takes about a month to get more in.

[garbubba]

Must have had to go to Riverside! Quite the marine lumberyard. Biloxi has a good yard too.

[cterrebonne]

Must have had to go to Riverside! Quite the marine lumberyard. Biloxi has a good yard too.

The place I went was George Kellet and Sons. I have never been to riverside, it sounds like they have a big outfit there.

[cterrebonne]

I was able to work on the V today. I figured I would take a break to eat and post progress.

It looks like the guy that fixed the transom before shreck owned it originally just added rover woven to the transom and made some kind of brace system. I say that because all of the rest of the wood is rotten really bad. It's coming out really easy and I should be able to grind off the rest.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/4F76C1CF-975C-4AE9-9B78-802F6B7221EE-17740-00001C100F47DDC0_zpsdc1343c9.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/4F76C1CF-975C-4AE9-9B78-802F6B7221EE-17740-00001C100F47DDC0_zpsdc1343c9.jpg.html)

I am going to use this piece after I clean it up as backing when I pour my Arjay. A lot cheaper than coosa.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/4D220152-6D9C-42B6-AD04-0B4F06342381-17740-00001C1025575856_zps296c0507.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/4D220152-6D9C-42B6-AD04-0B4F06342381-17740-00001C1025575856_zps296c0507.jpg.html)

[Well20F]

I was able to work on the V today. I figured I would take a break to eat and post progress.

It looks like the guy that fixed the transom before shreck owned it originally just added rover woven to the transom and made some kind of brace system. I say that because all of the rest of the wood is rotten really bad. It's coming out really easy and I should be able to grind off the rest.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/4F76C1CF-975C-4AE9-9B78-802F6B7221EE-17740-00001C100F47DDC0_zpsdc1343c9.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/4F76C1CF-975C-4AE9-9B78-802F6B7221EE-17740-00001C100F47DDC0_zpsdc1343c9.jpg.html)

I am going to use this piece after I clean it up as backing when I pour my Arjay. A lot cheaper than coosa.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/4D220152-6D9C-42B6-AD04-0B4F06342381-17740-00001C1025575856_zps296c0507.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/4D220152-6D9C-42B6-AD04-0B4F06342381-17740-00001C1025575856_zps296c0507.jpg.html)
was there a motor on that transom

[aussie]

was there a motor on that transom
wow that looks like a lot of work long as you keep her alive :money:

[cterrebonne]

wow that looks like a lot of work long as you keep her alive :money:

yep it had a 225 merc. and I can see why the transom was flexing so much. The wood was all wet and rotted and then the stringers were rotted and they broke.

[reelapeelin]

Lotta work goin' on there..but it'll all be worth it when ya getter done..turns out Wellcraft didn't do such a great job on their stringers, etc...but like said, they probably didn't envision us hangin' on to 'em 30-40 years later either...:clap:

[cterrebonne]

Lotta work goin' on there..but it'll all be worth it when ya getter done..turns out Wellcraft didn't do such a great job on their stringers, etc...but like said, they probably didn't envision us hangin' on to 'em 30-40 years later either...:clap:

you are right reel. The V20 has an exellent design and layout, but it was an entry level boat and Wellcraft tried to keep cost and labor expense down. You can tell by the way they cut into the stringers and laid up the glass they were pushing these out in a hurry. I kept thinking and I was suppose to go with Epoxy but I can get such a good deal on Poly that I am going to head that route. I like with the poly that I can go over layer over layer with out sanding by using no way poly and then spray some pain on top and be done with it.

[bradford]

Good job saving her! It'll be worth it down the road.

[cterrebonne]

well I got my poly resin in last week and my glass is coming in this week. Hopefully I can get some work done to the boat this weekend. My plan is to pour in the transom before I start on the stringers.

That reminds me, I need to get some 1/2" PT ply to use to for my fuel tank bulkheads. I think 3/4 would be over kill.

[cterrebonne]

I was able to get the inner all prepped. I put a layer of 1708 over the skin to stiffen it and to allow me to fit it in the hull a little better.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/11B8F4EF-5FC1-495B-95E1-FEC40C950452-16989-00001CA05CD58383_zps9d47d98e.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/11B8F4EF-5FC1-495B-95E1-FEC40C950452-16989-00001CA05CD58383_zps9d47d98e.jpg.html)

[Destroyer]

Awesome. :clap:

[cterrebonne]

Awesome. :clap:

thanks, I still have to go on the back side of that piece and fair out some of the voids.

[cterrebonne]

I got some filleting material in that I need to filet the inner transom skin back in and to help fillet the tabs that I will leave up from the old stringer glass. Hopefully I can get some work done soon. It's tough right now because only time to work is before the fronts pass.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/9898847A-0F37-43FB-A8C3-76411932B39C-21045-00002376216B4B11_zpsbe57873b.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/9898847A-0F37-43FB-A8C3-76411932B39C-21045-00002376216B4B11_zpsbe57873b.jpg.html)

[franko]

looks like a project, but will be well worth it.....here's mine as I am the original owner
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b591/wellcraft20/IMG_1505_zps629808e3.jpg (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/wellcraft20/media/IMG_1505_zps629808e3.jpg.html)

[Shrek]

Updates? I can't believe how bad that transom was.

[cterrebonne]

Updates? I can't believe how bad that transom was.

sorry it took so long for me to update my progress.

Shrek, the transom was pretty bad but the repair would have held up fine if the stringers weren't bad. From what I saw, it looked like all the stress was being put on the stringers through that brace the fiberglass man made to compensate for the soft transom.

I was able to put in about 10 hours of work on the hull. The majority of the work came in the form of grinding out old fiber glass that allowed water to seep in between the orginal lay up and the repair lay up. The repair was some thick stuff, probably 3 layers of roven with mat on top. This was in the bilge area by the transom. After all the grinding, I was able to take a 36 grit disc and grind down and feather in all the areas that the new glass would contact the old glass. After all the grinding was complete, I put some patched over existing holes, so when I pour the Arjay, it won't leak out.

Now I just need to trim the inside skin and glass that into place so I can pour the arjay. My arjay sat the whole winter. So I am curious to see if it is still good or not. I hope so, but I don't want to break the seal and pour a test sample to see if it gels before it's time to pour.

I will try to get some photos up tomorrow.

[Shrek]

Woot! Looking forward to pics

[cterrebonne]

Pics as promised.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/boattransom_zps2b92d768.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/boattransom_zps2b92d768.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/boattransom2_zps2a7c214b.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/boattransom2_zps2a7c214b.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/boattransom3_zps9c852f70.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/boattransom3_zps9c852f70.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/F616C81B-2AF3-4E58-AFDB-71ED14D3CBBC_zpsmoqqztz2.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/F616C81B-2AF3-4E58-AFDB-71ED14D3CBBC_zpsmoqqztz2.jpg.html)

[cterrebonne]

filleted the skin to the hull.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/F616C81B-2AF3-4E58-AFDB-71ED14D3CBBC_zpsmoqqztz2.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/F616C81B-2AF3-4E58-AFDB-71ED14D3CBBC_zpsmoqqztz2.jpg.html)

[cterrebonne]

all tabbed in with 2 layers of 1708. Everything went on really good. I really liked using the 1/2" chopped strands from us composites to make my own cat hair with. Way better to work with than the bondo stuff, plus I didn't have to worry about the wax like I would with the bondo hair.

Tomorrow I should be able to glass a small cap where the transom top and sides are. After that sets, then I can pour in the Arjay. Once that sets then I can glass it all up and be finished with the transom rebuild.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/D0AC7887-56B1-41F6-ABFF-958FF1DD852B_zpsr7llihuc.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/D0AC7887-56B1-41F6-ABFF-958FF1DD852B_zpsr7llihuc.jpg.html)

[bradford]

Sweet! Keep us posted, love reading about others projects.

[cterrebonne]

Well I was able to glass in the transom area so that I can pour the arjay tomorrow. It's not the strongest but all I need it to do is hold the arjay for the time being. I'll go back and grid it down and lay some more glass down.

I was very impressed by the 1708 where I tabbed in the inner transom skin. That lamination is strong like an ox. I can just imagine how strong it's going to be once I pour the arjay then put knees to the stringers.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/411FD6EC-0D37-44AF-8BB5-7876C6E675A0_zpstpqfkear.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/411FD6EC-0D37-44AF-8BB5-7876C6E675A0_zpstpqfkear.jpg.html)

[macojoe]

looks great!! only thing i think i would have done is put the knees in and poured the aray in them or around them to make solid mate with transom?? sounds good any way but what do i know. keep up the good work!!

[cterrebonne]

looks great!! only thing i think i would have done is put the knees in and poured the aray in them or around them to make solid mate with transom?? sounds good any way but what do i know. keep up the good work!!

That's a really good Idea MJ. I wish I would have done that. You would have been able to hang 1000 lbs off a bracket strong.

[cterrebonne]

Today I had some time and I was able to pour the Arjay in the transom. It was really easy to work with and the ceramic particles are the same consistency as sand box sand. I did spill some in the bilge area but it cleaned up really well with acetone.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/19C79C36-B5E3-4716-B748-8A9D4F7F08B6_zpslrtepwp7.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/19C79C36-B5E3-4716-B748-8A9D4F7F08B6_zpslrtepwp7.jpg.html)

[Destroyer]

Man that's looking sweet!!!! Nice job Cterrebonne!!!! :clap:

[Striper80]

Looking good.

[cterrebonne]

thanks guys, hopefully I will be able to get some more work done this week. Like capping off the tops on the edges and stuff like that.

I did have a question for you guys. Why did wellcraft make the stringers shorter where it meets up with the transom? Is that for clearance issues?

[tartuffe]

Yes that was for clearance for the splash well, remember the floor sits on the stringers and the deck drains into the splash well which drains out the back at least on my 81.

[cterrebonne]

Yes that was for clearance for the splash well, remember the floor sits on the stringers and the deck drains into the splash well which drains out the back at least on my 81.

That's true. I don't think I will be putting knees in for support. I'll just tie the stringers into the transom, that way I can have a completely flat splash well. That is pretty much what you did right?

[tartuffe]

Yep, that is what I did but I still put the knees in as it was originally to provide drain piping clearance. I raised mine to remedy the bottom bolt holes from coming in at the splash well level when I raised the transom height. It was alot of work and sanding those 4 interior corners makes for very sore fingers. In hourly terms, around 20 hrs is probably a light estimate.

[cterrebonne]

Yep, that is what I did but I still put the knees in as it was originally to provide drain piping clearance. I raised mine to remedy the bottom bolt holes from coming in at the splash well level when I raised the transom height. It was alot of work and sanding those 4 interior corners makes for very sore fingers. In hourly terms, around 20 hrs is probably a light estimate.

good to know, I noticed that my splash well is a lot narrower than yours and I think that the stringers run wide enough as to not land in the splash well. I might be able to put some biggers knees and just cut a hole for rigging and glass it back in. You splash well looks really wide. Mine is maybe 3 feet wide.

[RidgeRunner]

IIRC the reason the stringers were angled down at the transom was the splashwell layed onto and was bonded to the top of the stringers with putty. Mine was this way, 1983 model. Unless you altered the splashwell it would be difficult to drop in knees.

Arjay pour looks great. Keep up the good work. :beer:

[cterrebonne]

IIRC the reason the stringers were angled down at the transom was the splashwell layed onto and was bonded to the top of the stringers with putty. Mine was this way, 1983 model. Unless you altered the splashwell it would be difficult to drop in knees.

Arjay pour looks great. Keep up the good work. :beer:

The splash well has been changed already now that I think about it. I'll take some measurements and see what fits the best.

[cterrebonne]

I was able to do some work to her today. I did some fiberglassing to the transom. Just one layer to cover up the arjay. I also started to remove the foam. It wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. A regular old shovel did the trick. I'll get in there tomorrow and remove the rest with a scraper that way I can start cutting the starboard stringer out to replace it. I thought I was going to replace every piece of wood in the hull, but after inspecting the main forward bulk head and stringers. I don't think I am going to remove them. They are solid as a rock and I will take a core sample out tomorrow just to be sure.
What I will do is add another bulkhead right aft of the large bulkhead in case rot does decide to show. I will also run another piece of ply along side the old stringer to the scarf joint to help with strength is rot shows up.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/boat1_zpsbb78902d.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/boat1_zpsbb78902d.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/boat2_zps2daa35eb.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/boat2_zps2daa35eb.jpg.html)

[cterrebonne]

Just wanted to post a quick update. No more work done, but I will be moving the boat under a shelter so I can work regardless of the weather. As it seems lately the rain doesn't want to go away. So hopefully I will be able to get some more work done.

[bradford]

Been a wet summer over this way too.

[garbubba]

Thanks Cterrebonne!, putting your boat under roof cleared the weather up around here just fine! Driest it's been in weeks!

[cterrebonne]

Thanks Cterrebonne!, putting your boat under roof cleared the weather up around here just fine! Driest it's been in weeks!

lol, wish I could say the same here.

It looks like I will be able to get to some work done on Sunday. Hopefully I will be able to remove the bulkheads and the starboard side stringers, then sand it all down in preparation for new stringers on that side.

[cfelton]

Transom is looking good, you're doing some nice fiberglass work there!

[cterrebonne]

Transom is looking good, you're doing some nice fiberglass work there!

Thanks! I plan on putting down white gel coat over the fiberglass in the bilge and storage areas to dress it up.

[bradford]

Thanks! I plan on putting down white gel coat over the fiberglass in the bilge and storage areas to dress it up.


Great idea.

[cterrebonne]

made some progress today. I was able to cut out the starboard stringer and outboard bulkhead system. There was a ton of rot but luckily I found dry solid wood about 2ft from the main bulkhead at the bow which is also dry and solid. I plan on butting a new stringer up to the old stringer and run another piece of ply along the inboard side to add strength and help with the joint. Should last longer than I plan on keeping her.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/8CD71C89-0B1D-477D-B1C6-16A4DBCE2FAD_zpsml1rodoa.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/8CD71C89-0B1D-477D-B1C6-16A4DBCE2FAD_zpsml1rodoa.jpg.html)

[cterrebonne]

Update: I have been making more progress recently. I was able to grind down the old fiber glass some more. I also glued in the right stringer in today with epoxy glue. Now I have to sand off the areas where the epoxy leaked out. Hopefully this week I will be able to fillet and tab in the starboard stringer. I need to get my hand on some cabosil this week.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/boat%202%203.8.15_zpswvo7nln3.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/boat%202%203.8.15_zpswvo7nln3.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/boat1%203.8.15_zpssd7olufb.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/boat1%203.8.15_zpssd7olufb.jpg.html)

[SkunkBoat]

Nice work.
Going to tackle my transom now that the snow is melting.

Questions;
How much arjay did you use?

What are those metal standoff things that appear to be spacing the skins?

You used poly resin. Is it OK to use epoxy with arjay?

I plan to cut the inside skin 3" from the corners, dig out wood, glass the old skin back in using epoxy resin. All of my fiberglassing experience is with epoxy.
I read that it is best for "repairs" of old glass and has better adhesive qualities.

Did you pour it solid and re-drill holes for drains? Any problems/suggestions?


Thanks for any suggestions you can make.

[cterrebonne]

Nice work.
Going to tackle my transom now that the snow is melting.

Questions;
How much arjay did you use?

What are those metal standoff things that appear to be spacing the skins?

You used poly resin. Is it OK to use epoxy with arjay?

I plan to cut the inside skin 3" from the corners, dig out wood, glass the old skin back in using epoxy resin. All of my fiberglassing experience is with epoxy.
I read that it is best for "repairs" of old glass and has better adhesive qualities.

Did you pour it solid and re-drill holes for drains? Any problems/suggestions?


Thanks for any suggestions you can make.

I used 3 5 gallon pails so 15 gallons total

Those metal looking things are 2x4's wrapped in duct tape.

I used poly to laminate everything back, remember with epoxy, epoxy sticks to poly and vinyl ester but poly and vinyl ester doesn't stick to epoxy.

Epoxy is over kill but I would use what you are used to.

I poured it solid, I will cut holes and reglass later.

You can PM me with any questions you may have, good luck!

[bradford]

I used 3 5 gallon pails so 15 gallons total

Those metal looking things are 2x4's wrapped in duct tape.

I used poly to laminate everything back, remember with epoxy, epoxy sticks to poly and vinyl ester but poly and vinyl ester doesn't stick to epoxy.

Epoxy is over kill but I would use what you are used to.

I poured it solid, I will cut holes and reglass later.

You can PM me with any questions you may have, good luck!

Love seeing and reading about cap off restorations.

I'd post any questions here so everyone else down the road can benefit from others prior experience.

[cterrebonne]

Love seeing and reading about cap off restorations.

I'd post any questions here so everyone else down the road can benefit from others prior experience.

Very good point bradford.

I did want to share a tip for anyone interested.

The easiest and less messy way I found to remove the foam from the side of the hull is to use a shovel. You basically just dig into the foam and it pops apart in big chunks and there isn't a bunch of dust like you get with a chainsaw or a sander. Each side took me about a 1/2 hour to remove all the foam. I also had those large garbage bags made for putting leaves and grass in. I used them to put the foam inside of and I just put them at the curb after for garbage collection.

Also, what works excellent to remove the remaining pieces of foam is a angle grinder with a wire wheel on it. To get into those hard to reach places a hard bristle wire brush works great.

I also don't plan on putting foam back into the sides. I will cut the edge of the ribs where they meet at the bottom of the hull and the stringers that will allow water to flow back into the bilge.

[ReefReaper]

How much flex did the hull have with doing one side at a time? Did you do it that way to keep the hull straight?

[cterrebonne]

How much flex did the hull have with doing one side at a time? Did you do it that way to keep the hull straight?

Not as much flex as you would think it would have. It helps that it's supported bow to stern on a nice 4x6 trailer bunk. I would say that the bunks are about 10ft long or so, then I have a support under the front of the bow. side to side movement is minimal. I weigh about 300lb so it's supported pretty well.

I did it one side at a time for a few reasons. Like you mentioned, so it would help with keeping everything from flexing as much. Also, so that way I have a reference when rebuilding the new stringer.

Once the new stringer is tabbed in and before I put the top layer to cap it off, I am going to measure against the old stronger and then add more glass or remove wood to get it as close as possible to how it was.

[cterrebonne]

I was able to do some work yesterday. Sanded off the epoxy glue that leaked out the joints. Then coated the ply with resin and then put down fillets along the stringers. An interesting note is that it almost took a gallon of cabosil to thicken up a little over 2 quarts of resin. A side note, I ordered the vinyl ester from us composites. They shipped the MEK catalyst with a tip that helps dispense the liquid and a small measuring cup. I thought that was a nice touch by them.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/boat%202%20-%203.15.15_zpsljcrj4tx.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/boat%202%20-%203.15.15_zpsljcrj4tx.jpg.html)

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm127/audiosolstice/89%20v20/boat%203.15.15_zpssghs2zl8.jpg (http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/media/89%20v20/boat%203.15.15_zpssghs2zl8.jpg.html)

[cterrebonne]

I noticed some pics went away, so I am posting all the pics again in this post.

http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/library/89%20v20

http://s295.photobucket.com/user/audiosolstice/slideshow/89%20v20