Mercury 2.5L 200 rigging questions

[jasoncooperpcola]

I am trying to get whats needed to rig my 94 Mercury 2.5L 200. So far i have decided on a Mercury Commander binnacle control, Teleflex Extreme cables, and Mercury Flagship gauges.

I keep seeing Gen II controls and everybody recommends them? Whats the difference and is the Commander a Gen II?

I found a wire harness locally today for $50, its 14' long and has the correct connector on it for the engine. I have figured out that the Red/Yellow wire is for Starting, the black/yellow stripe wire is for shutoff, and the Yellow/black stripe wire is for "enrichment" i assume that is the choke right? That leaves a purple, brown, grey , and red and black wire i dont know what they are for. I assume the red and black wires are for power/negative for the ignition, gauges,etc. I still need a key switch and a tilt/trim harness to go from the outboard to the remote.

[phatdaddy]

all i have is a 2.0 manual. but according to it , the purple wire is switched power for the gauges, the gray is the tach pulse, the tan wire is the temp signal, the only brown i see is a brown white that is the signal for the trim indicator. i would verify these with a grown up, but this might get you started. i talked to a guy today who thinks he has a 25' wiring harness, he is going ot check, but he said he would need to get $120. sounds pricey to me. if you want , i can scan and send you a pic or two.

[jasoncooperpcola]

Phat, i purchased a dowloadable manual for the 1990-2000 2.5-275 Mercury/Mariner outboards, it was $8. If anybody wants, i can email you a copy of the manual, (i think??)

Still trying to verify some of the wires. I know one of these wires has to be for a warning horn for overheating, low oil etc. I did purchase the wire harness yesterday. It makes it much easier starting and killing the engine. So far i have not had to use the choke, it turns over for a half second then fires up, even after sitting all night.

Also i ordered a new in box Mercury Commander Gen II binnacle control for $275. Now i need gauges, key switch, kill switch, warning horn, Teleflex Xtreme cables, and a hydraulic steering support shaft.

Should i worry about the kill switch? I have never worn one, when on the boat with other people. But i have a feeling i will be doing alot of fishing by myself.

On a side note, i can't find the trim sender on this motor. Is it a different design than the Johnson?

On a side note, i don't think i have a trim sender on my motor. I can find one anywhere.

[phatdaddy]

in the dia i have, the kill switch is the blk/yellow & black. this is in the side mount remote control units.
is the oil injection completely gone? no tank on motor or a blank plate where the pump goes. i might can come up with some pieces parts for that. i would still run premix since thats the way you got the motor.
the trim indicator is a brown/white wire

[jasoncooperpcola]

Phat i have figured out the black wire with yellow stripe is for shut off, the red wire with yellow stripe is for starting. Yellow wire with black stripe is for choke, the brown wire is for the overheat sensors but on the outboard side of the connector its a brown wire with blue stripe. Purple wire runs into the motor and stops at a terminal block. Previous owner had it hooked to a fuel pump. Gray wire goes behind the coils into a black box so i think thats the tach wire. I have 12v between the red and black wires so they supply power forward to the ignition switch.

All i have left of the oil injection is the warning box. There is a blank plate over the crankshaft hole.

I have no brown/white wire. Heck i dont even have a trim sender. :head:\

Wiring diagram below, it would be nice if they labeled 1-8 on the connector with what they do. :bat:

[phatdaddy]

what i am looking at is the diagram for the control box, so that might be the difference in the color codes. i think merc used different colors for different motors,but they all went to the 8 pin harness. i only have the manual for the 2.0, so that might be the problem.
sorry, not much help.

[Destroyer]

Looking at your engine while sitting in your boat, the tilt/trim sender is on your right, (port side) just about level with the top of the swivel. it looks like a small round black button, maybe an inch in dia and 3/4 of an inch thick. 2 small machine screws (either 10 x24 or 12 x 24) hold it in place. It has two wires coming out of it. One wire loops to one of those machine screws and is ground. it's about 4" long. The other wire connects via a push in connector to your wire harness and goes back, thru your harness, to your tilt guage.

[jasoncooperpcola]

Phat you are a big help! The harness i got has diff wire colors. Will have to trace wires.

[jasoncooperpcola]

Found a cowling for the Mercury. :sun: Going to get it Saturday and visit Family, that lives close.

Destroyer, i could not find anything on the bracket that has wires except for the tilt/trim motor.

[Destroyer]

Found a cowling for the Mercury. :sun: Going to get it Saturday and visit Family, that lives close.

Destroyer, i could not find anything on the bracket that has wires except for the tilt/trim motor.

Look at the shaft end of the main hydraulic cylinder. It's like a cap on the outboard end of the pivot. I'll upload a few pics tomorrow.. Can't find my adaptor to insert the SD card into this comp, so will have to wait till I get to work tomorrow to upload it.

[phatdaddy]

jason, look at the pin that holds top of the ram to the engine bracket on the port side. if it has a slot, you are missing the sending unit. if it is covered by a black cap, thats the sending unit.

sorry d, didn't see you post
i need to read , then post.

[jasoncooperpcola]

Thanks Phat and Destroyer. I tilted the engine again and sure enough i found two studs on the end of the shaft for the tilt pivot. No sender, i will have to add that to the list too.

[Destroyer]

Thanks Phat and Destroyer. I tilted the engine again and sure enough i found two studs on the end of the shaft for the tilt pivot. No sender there, i will have to add that to the list too.

Glad you found it :) The good news is that the unit is cheap and it's not model specific. The same unit is used on a variety of Mercury engines. I accidently broke mine while removing my engine from my Cruisers, Inc boat before scraping it a few weeks back. I got a used one off eBay for less than $20 and there were several listed... just do a search on eBay for a Mercury tilt switch. I'll post a pic of what the unit looks like off the engine tomorrow morning.

Phat, nothing to apologise about.. I have no pride of ownership...the trick is to help out a fellow boater.. Two heads are always better than one. :clap:

[jasoncooperpcola]

Phat, nothing to apologise about.. I have no pride of ownership...the trick is to help out a fellow boater.. Two heads are always better than one. :clap:

I need all the help i can get, considering i am a Mercury virgin. :you:

[Destroyer]

I need all the help i can get, considering i am a Mercury virgin. :you:

They are great engines... i know that there's a lot of ppl that swear by Yammies and other's that like OMC's...but for my money Mercs are the best..And the coffin cowl 2.5's are the best of the best.. (but that's just me) :beer:

[phatdaddy]

not to de-rail, but i never saw the use of a trim gauge on a small boat. just turn around and look at the engine. i use the tach to let me know when i am getting to the sweet spot when running. i understand it on i/o applications. use that hole in the dash for your water pressure gauge, much more critical info, to me.

[jasoncooperpcola]

Phat you got me thinking. I have never had a trim gauge on any boat before. Well, they did have the gauge but never worked. My motor is going on a 30" bracket and the transom will be closed. Should be able to see it. So for gauges i am thinking tach, hours, water pressure, water temp, fuel, and maybe a speedometer. How does the hose on the lower unit work? I can feel the hose by the shift shaft.

[Destroyer]

Phat you got me thinking. I have never had a trim gauge on any boat before. Well, they did have the gauge but never worked. My motor is going on a 30" bracket and the transom will be closed. Should be able to see it. So for gauges i am thinking tach, hours, water pressure, water temp, fuel, and maybe a speedometer. How does the hose on the lower unit work? I can feel the hose by the shift shaft.

It's a pitot hose. A pitot tube is a pressure measurement instrument used to measure fluid flow velocity. It connects to the back of your speedo and as your boat moves thru the water the water pressure on the air trapped inside of the hose increases, and as the pressure increases your speedo registers that increase on your speedo dial as your speed.

This is a pic of your trim sender.

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l111/Destroyer511/coolpix018.jpg

[jasoncooperpcola]

Thanks Destroyer. Not sure if i will replace my trim sendor. How accurate is the lower unit pitot tube?

[Destroyer]

Thanks Destroyer. Not sure if i will replace my trim sendor. How accurate is the lower unit pitot tube?

LOL Don't know...never had mine connected up to the speedometer. I always use my GPS. I had a similar setup on a few of my old boats, they were aftermarket units...I think they were made by aquameter. Seemed ok at slower speeds, but didn't seem to be all that accurate at high speeds. Still, it was better than nothing.

[jasoncooperpcola]

so i will plan on replacing the tube when i take the lower unit off for a water pump.

[phatdaddy]

speedo tube , to me, is more useless than the trim gauge. takes up a 4.25" hole. most just let them run out of the hole on the midsection and cap. to me the most vital gauges are the volt & water pressure, then tach & hourmeter. speedo, trim & gas are a waste of space.

[jasoncooperpcola]

Phat keep in mind i am converting to a center console. I have a blank console to start with. I wont know how much room i have for gauges until my control gets here. But i think i have more than enough room for what gauges i want.

[phatdaddy]

k

[spareparts]

just remember, if you boating in salt water, a speedo or water pressure gauge can be a possible leak of spraying salt water on the back of your dash

[Destroyer]

just remember, if you boating in salt water, a speedo or water pressure gauge can be a possible leak of spraying salt water on the back of your dash

Yup...that's the reason that I ultimately disconnected the aftermarket units that I had. The pressure inside the tube is fine as long as the hose is sound, but if there's a leak from old or rotted hose then the air is replaced with water in the hose and it can get real bad real quickly on your electronics. Stick with a GPS or a transducer with a paddlewheel for speed indications.

[jasoncooperpcola]

I wont worry about the speedo gauge. But since i have the water pressure hookup already on the motor i will hook it up.

Been a busy weekend, drove to Louisiana Saturday, went to Kenner first to get the cowling, then spent the rest of the day in Houma, mom is originally from Houma so she hasn't seen her family in a while.

While i was in Kenner, talking with the guy i also scored a used stainless tilt tube for the 2.5L. Got up this morning and spent about three hours changing the tilt tube. Ended up taking a transom bracket off because the tube was stuck in it and free in the swivel and other bracket. Got everything back together and greased, put the lower cowling together, and now she looks as good as she runs. I also got the harness and gas hose/drive cable grommets for the lower cowling, is there a rigging tube adapter available that mounts where these go?

Also just discovered a pouch on the inside of the cowl. Opened it and there was a pull rope inside. I thought to myself, i hope i never have to try to use that! :you:

[RidgeRunner]

You could use it in a pinch, provided you eat your Wheaties.

I gotta agree with Phat on the gauges, give me a tach, water pressure and a volt meter. Need to know that your making good water pressure IMO, most important, followed by battery voltage/charging system status. Temperatures on a outboard often require an extra sensor or two.(water and head temp)
I replaced the trim sensor on the Optimax because the Smartcraft Gauges kept beeping to alert me of the sensor failure at every startup. Annoying.

[spareparts]

ya gotta hate those annoying smart craft gauges :beer:

[jasoncooperpcola]

I am trying to figure out how to hook my hydraulic steering to the outboard steering arm. Its a SeaStar HC5340-42. Pic Below. Does anybody have an idea on how it hooks up? I will try to get pics tomorrow when its daylight. I think i need a steering arm extension, www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/steering-arm-extension-kit-p11636.html (http://www.mercurypartsexpress.com/us/steering-arm-extension-kit-p11636.html) , but it says "Used with dual engine tie bar kits. Not designed for use with hydraulic or power steering systems or as a primary steering attachment point." . About to get on Teleflex website and look for answers too. On the 250 Sportsman, the hydraulic steering was hooked to the steering arm extensions?

I have never thought about needing a volt gauge, but then again, none of my boats ever had one. Ridge i think i will stick with the dumbcraft gauges. :you: Hopefully no beeping.

EDIT: I need the Teleflex Adapter Kit HO5035, not a steering arm extension (parts 42, 43, 44). $75-$150 I found an exploded diagram on Teleflex website, its below.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/hydrosteering.jpg

[phatdaddy]

might want to check your gps, some give volt readings, i use that as a gauge on my 13 whaler.

[jasoncooperpcola]

I think mine does Phat, but i usually run it off my livewell battery. Dad never wanted it hooked to the motor battery, it would blink sometimes when cranking the motor, and he thought it might be bad for the gps. Good idea, but does anybody have a problem like that with their gps on the motor battery?

[jasoncooperpcola]

Update, i got a Mercury Commander 4501 binnacle control. Its very smooth without cables. Not impressed with the price once i opened it up. But thats the case with all new controls. I will get cables once i get the bracket and console done so i can accuratly deteermine length. So far i am very happy with my motor choice. No way i could have afforded an Optimax. For now i am done buying parts. I need to use what money i have left on house repairs.

[RidgeRunner]

I think mine does Phat, but i usually run it off my livewell battery. Dad never wanted it hooked to the motor battery, it would blink sometimes when cranking the motor, and he thought it might be bad for the gps. Good idea, but does anybody have a problem like that with their gps on the motor battery?

My GPS/Engine and nearly everything else runs on whatever battery I switch to. Never had the GPS turn off while cranking the engine on any of the boats Garmin 2006, Lowrance HDS7, and Lowrance C68 so far. All of which tell voltage. Flats boat doesn't have a volt gauge, just Tach and Water Pressure.

Smartcrafts should carry a warning label, "Owners need to be smarter than their gauges" New set still in the box Spare..

[jasoncooperpcola]

Got bored, and stuck the controls and hydraulic steering on the console, to see what mods need to be done. It seems the steering wheel is too far up, and the control handle bottoms out reverse and forward. I might build an angled binnacle pod onto the console. I do plan on extending the top of the console to make room for electronics. Gauges are going on the angled section above the wheel and the space between the steering wheel and control will be for switches.

Below are some pics of the setup and the outboard.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor003.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor006.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor008.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor007-1.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor002-1.jpg

[RidgeRunner]

Controls might not bottom out when the cables are installed on both ends. The limit to the throw is actually adjusted at the motor for WOT. There is also a mounting kit for the steering that allows the pump to be mounted from the back side of the dash. Three kits avail. here Round Bezel, Backmount and wedge mount, depending on your model. Looks like it would work. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=675&title=Teleflex+Hydraulic+Helm+Mounting+Options+%26 +Tilt+Steering

[jasoncooperpcola]

Will the helm even work at this angle? I will build a binnacle pod, also gives a good place for key and kill switch. I might go ahead and fab a box under the dash for the steering to mount in.

[jasoncooperpcola]

I have decided to forfeit the center console idea for now. The boat has worked for me in the past and if doesn't now then i will start wacking the cuddy off.

I will build a bracket, close the transom, and try to work a transom door into it. I want to cut the entire splashwell section out, and extend the sole all the way to the transom, then for deck drainage i want to try using the 2x8 door scuppers that drain thru the transom. I think its the best solution.

I have to figure out how to make the binnacle control work on a side console now. I want to rebuild the entire console to make it work for what i want. I don't care for an almost vertical steering wheel, but i imagine Wellcraft did that due to space.

I know i just got way off topic, just thinking outloud. Right now the windshield is off, the rubrail is off, and i have half the bottom paint left to remove. The boat is almost ready for the liner to be lifted out. Once i get caught up financially y'all be ready for the build thread!

[Randall220]

Got bored, and stuck the controls and hydraulic steering on the console, to see what mods need to be done. It seems the steering wheel is too far up, and the control handle bottoms out reverse and forward. I might build an angled binnacle pod onto the console. I do plan on extending the top of the console to make room for electronics. Gauges are going on the angled section above the wheel and the space between the steering wheel and control will be for switches.

Below are some pics of the setup and the outboard.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor003.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor006.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor008.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor007-1.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/jj199/jasoncooperpcola/consolemotor002-1.jpg
I have the same type of motor only mine is a 93. This is my second season with the motor and she runs great! I'm quite the newbie with this sort of stuff, but have found that most of the fixes, ( thermostats, wires, basic maint,) i've been able to do myself thru the manual. I'm glad someone mentioned to avoid that pressure tube on there for a speed guage. I've heard horror stories of tubes breaking.

[jasoncooperpcola]

What kind of speed are you getting with your 2.5? Neither am i an expert but this site has helped me alot. Originally i wanted to repower with a 225 Optimax. But i decided on the 2.5L 200 after some prodding from members here. I am glad i got a simple motor now. The only water line i should be running into my dash is water pressure, and i hope it doesn't bite me in the rear. As for repairs so far it needs two thermostats, and i am replacing everything on the poppet valve assembly. The wee stream is almost scalding hot. One of the thermostats came apart and luckily everything got stuck in the thermo cover. After this i am changing thr water pump and gear oil. Is it true these lower units weigh at a hundred pounds?

[Destroyer]

Is it true these lower units weigh at a hundred pounds?

NO, not at all. I just changed mine from a 20" to a 25" and the lower unit is only about 50-60 lbs... that's a guess, but I'm 68 and not in the greatest of shape and I had no trouble sliding the old one off and putting the extended one on. Looks like there are 4 of us with the same engine. (You, Randall220, Reelapeelin and me) Different years (Mines a 91') but same basic cowl and engine.

[Randall220]

What kind of speed are you getting with your 2.5? Neither am i an expert but this site has helped me alot. Originally i wanted to repower with a 225 Optimax. But i decided on the 2.5L 200 after some prodding from members here. I am glad i got a simple motor now. The only water line i should be running into my dash is water pressure, and i hope it doesn't bite me in the rear. As for repairs so far it needs two thermostats, and i am replacing everything on the poppet valve assembly. The wee stream is almost scalding hot. One of the thermostats came apart and luckily everything got stuck in the thermo cover. After this i am changing thr water pump and gear oil. Is it true these lower units weigh at a hundred pounds?

Not too sure on the speed for I too don't have a speedometer. Mine runns at top end between 5200 and 5400 RPMs. I'd like to get a GPS installed at some point to see how fast but she blows some of the newer boats out of the water. :laugh: If the pee stream is running that hot it might not have the correct gasket, or sealer around the water pump. This happened to me and I wasn't aware of it, and had to take it to a pro to fix it. I'm also not to sure on the weight on the lower unit, it was heavy but not 100lbs heavy.

[Randall220]

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/image.php?u=530&dateline=1332382967 (http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/member.php?u=530) jasoncooperpcola (http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/member.php?u=530)

Just curious, is your motor a 30" shaft, or a 25" ?

[jasoncooperpcola]

Ya know, i haven't even measured it! Dam i hope its not a 30". I will measure it when i get home.

[spareparts]

from your pics, it appears to be 25, I don't think they made a 30 2.5( I could be wrong). the water from the pisser will be hot on a merc, and it won't start peeing till the thermostat open up, so don't get too worried if it doesn't start peeing as soon as you start the engine