So Here She is

[tartuffe]

I thought I would upload some photos of what I've done to my poor girl. She'll be lucky if she ever sees the water again.

[tartuffe]

Some more for you guys

[tartuffe]

Today was a rainy day so not much other than starting to cut down my stringers. I'm almost out of fabric, need to drive an hour to get more plywood, and gotta order some more resin soon. On top of that I still have a couple hours of grinding so it will be awhile before I post more pics of any progress.

I did get my new windshield ordered from UPD Plastics so that is worth getting excited about.

[Destroyer]

Dude...You're making EXCELLENT progress!!! :clap: Keep up the good work...It's looking nice...and looking at some of those 'before" shots, she most definately needed what you are doing. Well Done Sailor!!! :beer:

[Kracker Jack]

SWEET!!!! Git er' done!!

[tsubaki]

Jesus, you have performed a pile more in the pictures than I've seen in a while!
"Lucky to see the water", my *** in Nebraska.
Looks good!!

[tartuffe]

I've been mocking up the conduit for my control cables, hydraulic steering and all of the electrical. I came up with the idea of running it under the fuel tank rather than cut through all of my bulkheads. I tried running 3" conduit for all of it but it does not work out so I am planning on running a 2" for the electrical and 2.5" for the controls and steering. The Controls will fit in a 2" but it is tight.

This is what we got:

The bulkhead is going where the yellow straight edge is.
The batteries will sit where the blue styrofoam is.
The access hatch is roughly the same dimensions as the two pieces of PVC.
The fule fill and vent lines will run where the grey conduit is laid out on the tank.
The bottom of the livewell is approx. 7" off the center bottom or about a 1/2" above the top of the 3/4" strip of ply.

I will fill the whole tank area with foam once everything is in place.

So what am I not considering? What do you guys think of going with 2 separate chases rather than 1 and any good ideas to seal them non-permanently?

[phatdaddy]

i would think 2 would be better than one that is packed. if you've got the room, i'd add another 1". just for future stuff.
something else you might want to consider, adding 2 pieces of 3" on the outside of the stringers, below the deck and using them as freshwater storage tanks. i have 2 6' pieces on either side of mine, below the rodboxes and it gives me 5 or 6 gallons of fresh water. i plumbed them to a pump located in the center of the hull, by the transom.

[willy]

A lot of hard work, it will come out beautiful I am sure.
I would do the two runs in three inch like said above.:clap:

[tartuffe]

I like the idea for freshwater on the boat. That would be nice to get the salt off me at the end of the day. I may try to plumb in a quick connect water tank for the bow tied into the washdown pump with a tee and valve. Good idea:clap:and also the future conduit idea, plenty of room under the tank.

Looking down my gunnels, I only have around 2" of clearance between the cap and hull above the bulkheads until you get about half way up. Any 3" conduit would have to go through my stringer and through 3 of those bulkheads, I really really want to avoid cutting into all of that since I already have to cut the stringer for the fuel fill and vent.

Here is a pic looking between the cap and hull inside the gunnel

[Kracker Jack]

When I finished my stringers I almost cried when I had to drill 2 holes for my conduit to pass thru!!!!!! so I know what ya mean by cutting into your wood.

[tartuffe]

When I finished my stringers I almost cried when I had to drill 2 holes for my conduit to pass thru!!!!!! so I know what ya mean by cutting into your wood.


Yeah man, and I don't know how many years Wellcraft did this but I only have 2 stringers and then all those mini bulkheads going from the stringer to the chine so when I cut a big holes in like the factory did then I just weakened one of my primary support structures at a critical area.

If I recall you have what like 5 stringers? Little more structurally redundant design for sure.

[phatdaddy]

tartuffe,these are a few shots of my tanks. they rest on to of the bulkheads between the cap & the bulkheads. i was limited by the rod box openings, but with the cap off, you could add some more pipe.

http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo214/gls216/freshwatertankport.jpg
this is a shot of the end of the tank (pvc pipe) the smaller pipe sticking up is the fill tube
port side

this is a shot of the starboard side
http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo214/gls216/freshwatertankstarboard.jpg

this is a shot of the pump in the bilge
http://i377.photobucket.com/albums/oo214/gls216/freshwaterpump1.jpg

[Kracker Jack]

Mine actually had 2 mains and 2 secondarys for a total of 4.

[RidgeRunner]

At one point I had every plug from my V. I hated to cut all of those holes in all of that fresh glass and paint. All the holes did render one interesting
conversation piece. The one piece I cut out of the console for the switch panel is about 3/8" thick in glass. I don't recall laying it on so thick? The fiberglass is thicker in that part of the console than in some hulls.
I like the idea of multiple PVC rigging tubes. I went with 4" and let it lay on top of the tank. It is pretty full.
I also did not like the way Wellcraft cut the top of the stringers to allow the passage of the rigging tube and fuel fill. The early boats have 4 stringers but do not have self bailing decks or under floor fuel tanks. The grid system of the latter models is sound IMO because they are so tall. The "mini bulkheads" add a lot of torsional strength and help to sturdy the hull sides and stringers. I asked around about the best design, the consensus seemed to think the grid system to be the way to go for overall strength. A lot of V-hulls from race boats to fast fishing rigs that are typically beat to death, have a similar grid system. (Superboat, Progression, Contender, SeeVee etc.)

Great work and fast Tartuffe. There is some dead space fore of the fuel tank bulkhead under the floor of your center console. It is a large enough space for a water tank plus some additional storage. I installed a 13 gallon plastic tank from Todd under there. If it ever ruptures I am SOL because there is no access without removing the liner. I put a false floor and an additional bulkhead there because I was thinking of relocating the batteries.

[tartuffe]

Damn guys, I ain't ever going to get this thing back on the water. I spend more time figuring out where to put led lights and water tanks, things I never even considered when I embarked on this "transom" rebuild.

I like the PVC tube idea, but my model doesn't have recessed rod boxes so the clearance just isn't there. I went with a larger fuel tank so the clearance isn't there either. I could probably go under the forward fish box along with the spare 20 gallon gas tank. Not a fan of putting another 200 lbs that far forward but heck, when I hit the gulf stream I typically have (6) 5-gallon tanks of gas in the bow and it hasn't been a problem yet.

Crap, I don't want my auxiliary fuel tank near my batteries. Gotta keep thinking.

Really though, its alot of fun. I tell her "leave me alone," I'm going to work on the boat like its my job or something, gotta remind myself its a hobby.

[tartuffe]

And Ridge, on the subject of fiberglass, it sure is easy to get carried away when "another layer will make it that much better." I've told myself that too many times.

[Kracker Jack]

Damn guys, I ain't ever going to get this thing back on the water. I spend more time figuring out where to put led lights and water tanks, things I never even considered when I embarked on this "transom" rebuild.

I like the PVC tube idea, but my model doesn't have recessed rod boxes so the clearance just isn't there. I went with a larger fuel tank so the clearance isn't there either. I could probably go under the forward fish box along with the spare 20 gallon gas tank. Not a fan of putting another 200 lbs that far forward but heck, when I hit the gulf stream I typically have (6) 5-gallon tanks of gas in the bow and it hasn't been a problem yet.

Crap, I don't want my auxiliary fuel tank near my batteries. Gotta keep thinking.

Really though, its alot of fun. I tell her "leave me alone," I'm going to work on the boat like its my job or something, gotta remind myself its a hobby.

are we related? lol!!! you sound just like me!!!! Read my first 6 posts,I was very adimit on making this a work style boat and now im adding leds and trying to make my own underwater lights!!!! and Im painting it with interlux perfection instead of interlux brightside. so my upgrade list keeps getting more and more expensive. And I keep adding more and more.

[reelapeelin]

:clap:Hats off the tartuffe and kracker jack!!...man there is some serious rebiulding goin' on around here...

And hey, tartuffe...wouldn't it be great if we could drawa paycheck for all the hours we put into these things!!...:sun:

[tartuffe]

Ridge, when you reinstalled those outside bulkheads, how did you attach them?

I've done 2 of the 10 by bedding them in PB with a nice filet and then applying 3 layers of 17 oz biax (epoxy) at 4", 6" and 10" widths. Reading more I see the guru's on other sites saying foam bedding of bulkheads. Beginning to second guess if I should do the others like that or carry on with what I am doing.

Anybody else have an opinion or advice? Keep in mind there are 5 of these down each side going from the top of the stringers to about 5" above the chime and over 2 strakes.

Also, when you replaced the cap, did you put a layer of putty over the grid as was done originally? If so what did you use? I'm thinking I may want to be able to remove this cap again one day.....in 30 years.

[cterrebonne]

Ridge, when you reinstalled those outside bulkheads, how did you attach them?

I've done 2 of the 10 by bedding them in PB with a nice filet and then applying 3 layers of 17 oz biax (epoxy) at 4", 6" and 10" widths. Reading more I see the guru's on other sites saying foam bedding of bulkheads. Beginning to second guess if I should do the others like that or carry on with what I am doing.

Anybody else have an opinion or advice? Keep in mind there are 5 of these down each side going from the top of the stringers to about 5" above the chime and over 2 strakes.

Also, when you replaced the cap, did you put a layer of putty over the grid as was done originally? If so what did you use? I'm thinking I may want to be able to remove this cap again one day.....in 30 years.

PB?

[tartuffe]

PB?


PB=mix of resin, cabosil and chopped strand fibers mixed together in quantities that bring the mix to an overall consistency of peanut butter although mine is probably more like jam.

[tartuffe]

Time for an update and a few pics. I wish I had taken a few of the structural work prior to the flip but there will be time for that later. I've glassed in the stringers and the grid outside of the stringers leading to the chine. All the wood for the anchor storage, additional hull support near the bow and storage compartments and supports is cut and shaped for moving the batteries just forward of the console under the sole. The transom is about 85% fair, pretty smooth but will need a couple small areas touched up.

The hull is flipped at this point and the first coat of Interlux A2000 E is on. Now I will start with fairing the strakes and filling and rounding the knicks on the chines, then 4 more coats of 2000, sand with 80 grit followed by Interlux VC Perfomance. Above the waterline will be primekote followed with Mauritius blue.

Now the bad part. Seems I can't catch a break. What I thought was isolated soft spots in the sole turns out to be the entire thing. See pics. I've ordered 1/2" divynicell that will be here week after next. Now to build an additional platform for the sole to rest on that will not allow the unreinforced sole to warp. Yee-Haw

[tartuffe]

Couple more pics. I put the cap on the trailer so that I could work on this back home so I can appease the ms. with a little face time. :fight:

[Kracker Jack]

Absoulutely beautiful work!!!!! The PO on my boat had aborted the floor so bad with "home depot" resin and cloth on mine that I decided to tackle my sole core issue from the topside. Your kicking some @$$!!!!! gitt'er done!!!!:beer:

[Kracker Jack]

I "bedded" or "glued" my sole ply down with resin thicked with cabosil(no chop strand). I sanded my stringer surface and my bildge side surface of my ply were my stringers hit with like a 50 grit paper ( I was trying to create a rough tooth to the glass for better adhesion)). I then filled a gallon ziplock bag with my thickened resin and cut the corner out creating a "cake decorating" bag to apply my mixture. I do all my fillets with the ziplock also, its cleaner and easy to apply. I also was able to screw my sole down, Im sure your trying to keep factory skin on your floor as best as you can with no screw holes.

[tartuffe]

Thank you for the comments Kracker. I have been trying to come up with a solution to bed the stringers to the sole from underneath doing this rebuild in this way. My thoughts are that once complete, insert the cap in the hull, do a test fit, then lift, "decorate" the tops of stringers and place the cap back in, then fill some bags with water to place even weight over the sole.

My primary concern is being able to lift the cap off in the future for any further modifications. I'm going to see what I can find/mix that will stick, just not really bond. I'm thinking poly resin/cab mix with no sanding to avoid an unbreakable bond.

I am trying something kind of new with the replacement in a rather non-traditional way. I weighed the time involved and thought this may test my fiberglass skills a little less by not having to tie all the original hatch lips/livewell into my new floor. We shall see.

[tartuffe]

Time to post more pics. I've been rebuilding using divynicell H80 1/2" foam board. Lots of grinding to get all the rot and not quite rot off. Getting the platform to make the floor completely flat took a little more than I was anticipating but it is FLAT. Bags of water were to distribute weight across the foam board to get a nice bond between the original deck skin and the foam.

Two layers of 1708 will cover it all.

[tartuffe]

Here is a pic that shows the 1/2" thick aluminum plates to bolt the t-top to as well as a profile of the divynicell. Another pic is the foam board all pre-cut and ready to be removed to lay a layer of PB and place back on.

[the daydreamer]

tarfulle were did you get your windshield? and what kind of cost did you encure? mine is split down the middle and sure would like to have a new one if cost was not to much. thanks

[tartuffe]

http://www.updplastics.com/wellcraft%20boat%20windshields.htm

They are as cheap as $147 if you get the 1/4" thick acrylic. The link above takes you to the Wellcraft windshields.

[tartuffe]

Updated Pics
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/266124d1347167661-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-31-website.jpg

http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/266129d1347167855-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-34-website.jpg
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/266131d1347167855-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-36-website.jpg
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/266132d1347167855-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-37-website.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/246604_10151011513716116_1875656691_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/398484_10151011515916116_700488853_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/557759_10151011579751116_251731434_n.jpg

[tartuffe]

Pics above show 6 coats A2000 primer on hull bottom along with 4 coats of Primekote on the sides. I alternated between grey and white A2000 so I could see how many layers I was sanding through. Each coat of Primekote was block sanded with 220 grit.

I finished replacing almost all the wood in the cap with divynicell and decided to insulate my forward fishbox while I was at it. Built a mold, lined it with cellophane and filled with 2LB expanding foam. Then I shaped it to accommodate the stringers. What you don't see is that I painted it with white epoxy resin.

Then back to painting. Used Interlux Perfection and IT WAS A *****! I rolled and tipped 7 coats while handsanding with 320 grit between coats. Each time it was different problem. Ended up building a tent with a ventilation system and shooting it. Finally great finish. Put 3 coats of Performance VC on the bottom and now just a little hand sanding to get it glossy on the transom and at the bow and that phase of the project will be done.

[willy]

Gorgeous:nice:

[jasoncooperpcola]

How did I miss this?? Amazing work. Are you using polyester or epoxy resin? If you do not mind me asking, what does the divinycell cost?

[tartuffe]

How did I miss this?? Amazing work. Are you using polyester or epoxy resin? If you do not mind me asking, what does the divinycell cost?
Here is where I got my 1/2" H80 divynicell, think $128 for a 4 x 8 sheet. I went with this to save weight to make up for the extra resin I used. After bonding the H80 to the existing deck, I used 2 layers of 17 oz fabric and it is incredibly strong. Ended up using 3 sheets total for everything. I still need to recore the hatches with what I have left.
http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Core_Materials/core_materials.html

I've been using epoxy resin.

[jasoncooperpcola]

Thanks. Not as bad as i thought. Do you think I can use Divinycell for walls and roof on a pilothouse? Also rebuiliding the cuddy from scratch.

[tartuffe]

Absolutely. I made a 8" x 8" test piece using the original 1/8" fiberglass deck on one side and 2 layers of 17 oz on the other. I put it on the edge of my concrete steps and stomped on it expecting it to crack and darn near broke my ankle.

When they ship it they will cut it down in 2' x 4' sheets and whether you buy one or three shetts shipping costs the same.

[Blue_Runner]

Some pretty work there. Gotta be proud of that!

[draglink]

WOW!! She is beautiful! Cant wait to see her put together!

[twhrider2]

One sharp V coming up:nice:

[Union Laker]

:clap:Hats off the tartuffe and kracker jack!!...man there is some serious rebiulding goin' on around here...

And hey, tartuffe...wouldn't it be great if we could drawa paycheck for all the hours we put into these things!!...:sun:

Double the Kudo's great work you guys. :party:

[RidgeRunner]

Sweet rebuild. Looking good.

[tartuffe]

Thanks for the votes of encouragement guys. Looking forward to flipping the hull back over after I do some trailer work and putting the guts back in her.

All the while I'll be sanding down the cap, doing some gelcoat repairs and getting it ready to sandwich back together before the spring.

[Kracker Jack]

I'm so jealous!!!!!:beer:

[tartuffe]

Picture time, its been awhile but anyway, old shots of internal superstructure construction, recoring the hatches along with resurfacing one with glass beyond repair. Had to raise splashwell when I raised transom so had to reconfigure the whole splashwell as the bottom engine mounting bolts would have come in at the bottom so had to raise splashwell 5 inches.

[tartuffe]

More

[tartuffe]

And more

[tartuffe]

Hatches

[tartuffe]

Splashwell

[tartuffe]

So at this point I have finished foaming all the voids under the deck, primed, sanded and put the cap back on. I will be shooting the paint this weekend on that. I still have a good amount of work on the console before it is ready for paint. Still need to shape a piece of mahogany for the dash, and then time to put all the pieces back togather. Almost there, knock on wood. Upholsterer will be done with cushions and canvas top at the end of next week.

[Destroyer]

Looking good Tartuffe. Nice job!! :beer:

[tartuffe]

Thanks Destroyer, its been a labor of love for sure!

Been a really busy few days. Painted the cap, painted the floor, started filling in old holes in console and shaped the mahogany for the dash and went ahead and made another hatch for the console glove box. I had to build a bracket to hold the hydraulic steering helm under the dash in order accomplish having a flush mount steering wheel to hide my old hynautic helm.

Cap paint I am very satisfied with, nice shine. Last time I painted the deck I used interlux brightsides with the non skid additive. It came out great, I guess to easy because this time I used Petite Easypoxy and did not have very good results. I am still contemplating if I want to try it again or just roll with it till I redo it in a couple years. I'll wait to get it out in the sun and see just how bad it is.

[SkunkBoat]

Skunkboat is very jealous of that black & white hull. Beautiful.

[step up here]

Judging by the pic's i see more than a labor of love. Their is a very professional accomplishment here. Excellent job!:clap:

[bradford]

Looking good. I contemplated painting mine black on the hull sides with a white cap. Decided to go all white.

[tartuffe]

Thanks guys, it is actually Interlux Perfection Flag Blue, but it does look black in the pics. Looks like I'll be stripping and sanding the deck AGAIN....NOOOOO, that damn Petite Easypoxy is as soft as Boy George in a strip club. I can scrape it up in spots with my fingernail. My guess is that I put it on too thick.

[step up here]

Call Petite tec support .:nut:

[tartuffe]

Just got off the phone with tec support, told him I painted on Sunday and that ithe boat sits on my carport. He said nothing is wrong, probably just put on too thick and to put it in the sun and it will harden up. Man I hope thats the case. The thing is that I astarted to run out on one of my hatches

If it is that will be good to know. Still have to buy another quart to fix the spot I hit at 6:30 this morning with the sander to see how bad it was going to be to get off :cry:

Even worse is that it came off pretty easily with 120 grit so I'm not a believer just yet.

[cterrebonne]

awesome job

[tartuffe]

Installed the rub rail today. It was a one person job that could have used 2. If there is a hell and it has levels similar to what is described in Dante's Inferno, one layer is just putting on rubrail.

Here is a tip: Do not overtighten the screws, its will cause the rail to pucker a bit. I was half way through when I noticed this so I backed all the installed screws out a turn. I hope the pucker disappers when it heats up a few times. The remainder of the rail is nice and smooth.

Also another thing, I used C-clamps to grab a hold of the rub rail at the transom and then used a ratchet strap to stretch the railing tight. It worked great.

I'll post pics tomorrow, fingers are too sore to screws with photos at the present.

One other thing, if you want to track illegal immigrants, put a 1/4" bead of 5200 on the border. That stuff sticks to everything and gets everywhere.

[chumbucket]

One other thing, if you want to track illegal immigrants, put a 1/4" bead of 5200 on the border. That stuff sticks to everything and gets everywhere.
:you: So funny, but true! :clap:

[reelapeelin]

Can't wait to see it!!...did the floor harden up??...LOVE that nearly black BLUE!!...if I ever paint this '84, that's ZACKLY what I had in mind!!...did you spray or roll & tip?

[tartuffe]

The floor did harden up after about a week to 9 days. I tried rolling and tipping 6 different ways and sanded 6 coats almost off. 1 coat of sprayed and it came out really glossy.

[tartuffe]

Updated Pics
Attached Images
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/336315d1371006718-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-60-website.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/336316d1371006718-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-61-website.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/336317d1371006718-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-62-website.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/336318d1371006718-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-63-website.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/336319d1371006718-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-64-website.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/336320d1371006759-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-65-website.jpg http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/336321d1371006759-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-66-website.jpg

[Mulv80]

You should be proud, that boat looks fantastic!

[phatdaddy]

wow, looks great, i'll drop mine off this winter. you did a great job.

[buckleyjr]

Wow! She is beautiful! Great work.

[tartuffe]

thanks guys and Phat I'll have her back to you in 18 months and not a day sooner! But one condition, the boat will have to be renamed N'ver Again III as this was my second tear down and rebuild! First one was long enough ago that I forgot how bad it was.

[RidgeRunner]

I just re-read the entire thread. You asked me something a while back about how to attach the lateral stringers? Umm, I should be asking you. My work was amaturish and messy in comparison. Your bilge looks better than my topside. LOL. What a nice job. The way you used the PB to smooth out the radi makes the thru bulkhead piping and glasswork look awesome. You now have a brand new and improved version of the boat we all love. Congratulations!

[Curapa]

That boat looks great! I really like the colors, I have been thinking of going with a lighter color like sea foam, or fighting lady but you have me second guessing now.

[Kracker Jack]

tartuffe i have a couple questions for you. Did you roll or spray the vc performance epoxy on the bottom? and can you pull some measurements for me for the paint line transition on your hull sides? thanks for the help

[tartuffe]

I sprayed the VC, was kind of an afterthought and was really happy with how it came out, very easy to use.

Measurements:
transom/gunnel meet 5-1/2" from chine
8' forward of that point is 6" from chine
Bow 21-1/4" pulling tape tight in a straight line pulling from bottom of rub rail to touch the point where the colors meet


Have your wife out there with you because you will see if you pull it straight and make a nice transition looking from the bow back it looks like **** from the side due to the flare, its a trial and error deal for sure

[Kracker Jack]

did you pull your original paint line measurements while in the water?thanks for the info on the vc epoxy. what did you thin the performance epoxy with? Did you do any priming or did you just spray over gelcoat like interlux said you can? how much paint did you use to do it? thanks so much for your help

[reelapeelin]

Tartuffe...man you have gone the mile on your CC...you transformed a mid-tier into an extremely well done top tier hull!!...well done...well done!!...Like Ridge, the inside of your bilge is most impressive...well thought out and executed...love what you did w/the hydraulic fittings through the splashwell...you did the whole package, stem to stern and have a V20 you can be very proud of for a long time...and I haven't even mentioned how great the Flag Blue over the white bottom LOOKS!!...OMG!!...that's centerfold material if I ever saw it!!...I'll be following yer progress a little closer...this baby is REEL nice!!...can't wait to see her on the water!!...:clap::clap::clap:

[cterrebonne]

that boat is one good looking boat, great work again, what did you use to fair any scratches and to sand the hull to get it that smooth?

[tartuffe]

did you pull your original paint line measurements while in the water?thanks for the info on the vc epoxy. what did you thin the performance epoxy with? Did you do any priming or did you just spray over gelcoat like interlux said you can? how much paint did you use to do it? thanks so much for your help


I went with the original paint line measurements but lowered them around 2", see profile pic for original line. I thinned with interlux 2316N (max recommended amount). I recall they recommended around 6 hours before overcoat but I totally disregarded that and waited about 20 minutes between coats. I believe it was a 1 gallon kit I used. It is a thick paint. I had some damage to my gelcoat when I stripped the original bottom paint so I had to spray around 3 or more coats of A2000 (sanded between coats) to protect the exposed fibers so not sure about spraying over gel but if they say it can be done then go for it.

[tartuffe]

that boat is one good looking boat, great work again, what did you use to fair any scratches and to sand the hull to get it that smooth?

For large scratches I used interlux watertite epoxy filler but for the small scratches is was multiple coats of epoxy primekote primer. Each coat was sanded down with 220 grit. I did quite a bit of longboarding but I started with an orbital sander to get the major imperfections out then longboarded until I was through the primer...repeat

[tartuffe]

That boat looks great! I really like the colors, I have been thinking of going with a lighter color like sea foam, or fighting lady but you have me second guessing now.

Well Curapa let me help you out, these boats are not very fair to begin with. I recall sitting on my porch with the boat across the street after a hard rain with the sun at my back and noticing all the ripples and waves in the sides as she sat. I spent a stupid amount of time trying to get those out knowing I was going with a dark color. The darker you go, the more imperfections you see. I do love the way it turned out but had I gone very light grey (with black t-top, bottom, and rub rail, gawd that would be sharp) we could have talked about this 6 weeks ago.

[tartuffe]

Reel, thank you for the very kind words, thanks all of you that have commented on my work in progress. We few know what a versatile platform we have to enjoy virtually every facet the water has to offer. I am thankful you guys appreciate my hard work as those who do not appreciate these boats for what they are say I am out of my damn mind.

Now to figure out how to insure her.....

[tartuffe]

I've been paroled, she is done, just need to connect the quick connect to the freshwater storage piping. Last pics
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337393d1371432832-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-97-website.jpg

Insulated Fish Box
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337391d1371432832-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-95-website.jpg
Anchor Storage Locker
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337383d1371432745-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-93-website.jpg
Battery Storage in Front of Console Below Deck
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337381d1371432745-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-91-website.jpg
Washdown Piping for fresh and saltwater attached to forward bulkhead
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337384d1371432745-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-94-website.jpg
Battery Storage Area
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337382d1371432745-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-92-website.jpg
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337392d1371432832-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-96-website.jpg
The Family
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337394d1371432832-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-98-website.jpg
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337395d1371432832-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-99-website.jpg

[draglink]

That is one of the most beautiful Vs I have seen! GREAT JOB!! I wouldn't have done anything different, down to the color scheme!

[RidgeRunner]

Once again the below deck is most fantastic. Words just don't do this rig justice. Battery placement, fit and finish, rigging, it all looks top notch. Nice job, your talent shows. :nic:

[cterrebonne]

that is one good looking boat.

[Destroyer]

DUDE!!!! Your skills are fantastic, and they show in what has to be one of the most beautiful restorations I've ever seen. Well done Tartuffe....well done!!:clap:

[tartuffe]

I'm happy you guys like her! One last pic...encore
http://www.thehulltruth.com/attachments/boating-how-s/337380d1371432745-81-wellcraft-cc-restoration-boat-90-website.jpg

This is my favorite part of the boat, 12 coats of Helmsman exterior varnish sold at Lowes. I sure hope it holds up

[reelapeelin]

C'mon...fess up...you went to a new boat dealer...got some inside shots of a new, top tier boat..right?...J/K...

Man, lemme tel ya that's some nice work!!...DETAIL, DETAIL DETAIL...and it didn't seem to take long...you musta got w/it pretty steady...

Can't say it enough...:nic:...some SERIOUS boat porn...:drool:

[chumbucket]

I have to concur. That is one of the finest V20's I have seen. You should be very proud. That thing is good for another 30 years. :party:

[Kracker Jack]

hey bud I got your message on tht. I will take all the scrap parts ya got. pm me when you get a chance.

[macojoe]

yep like already said, one of if not the best V20 I have ever saw!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:clap:

[cterrebonne]

How did you measure to make sure that the stringers went back in the same place and height?

[Cam]

After making the boat look that good, I would never want it back in the water again!!!! lol. Fantastic job!!!!

:part:

[bgreene]

Boat looks fantastic - congratulations. Just really great.

[Destroyer]

Boat looks fantastic - congratulations. Just really great.

X2 totally argee

[phatdaddy]

congrats, that is a work of art.

[Zarkohl]

Very Nice!!!

[tartuffe]

How did you measure to make sure that the stringers went back in the same place and height?

I ran strings through marked holes in the hull from the rub rail screws. I numbered the holes and wrote down the measurement from the edge of the hull to centerline of the stringer and the distance below the string to the top of stringer. I had other measurements but those were what I trusted the most. Most important thing was the outside to outside measurement of the hull to make sure the hull itself didn't "relax."

There is a picture in this thread of all the strings

[tartuffe]

After making the boat look that good, I would never want it back in the water again!!!! lol. Fantastic job!!!!

:part:

Thanks for all the kind words fellas! I had never been so nervous as that first trip back to the ramp. I've had her out about a dozen times now including twice about 50 miles offshore so its like old times. Even got a small scratch that didnt bother me. When not in the water I found a great covered storage area :party:

[Well20F]

I ran strings through marked holes in the hull from the rub rail screws. I numbered the holes and wrote down the measurement from the edge of the hull to centerline of the stringer and the distance below the string to the top of stringer. I had other measurements but those were what I trusted the most. Most important thing was the outside to outside measurement of the hull to make sure the hull itself didn't "relax."

There is a picture in this thread of all the strings

Now that youre done I will send my 1984 Center Console to you.

[cterrebonne]

is that a bigger than stock tank you put in there?

[tartuffe]

Yeah, It had a 60 gallon, I was able to get a 72 gallon in there since the cap was off and realistically probably could have gotten 100 or more if I gone the custom tank route.

[Night_Sailor]

<snip>

something else you might want to consider, adding 2 pieces of 3" on the outside of the stringers, below the deck and using them as freshwater storage tanks. i have 2 6' pieces on either side of mine, below the rodboxes and it gives me 5 or 6 gallons of fresh water. i plumbed them to a pump located in the center of the hull, by the transom.

I stumbled on this old thread. Lots of interesting stuff here.

This one is a clever idea. That's only 4.4 gallons, but still nice to have some fresh water. Fresh water is mighty important to have offshore.

[Night_Sailor]

For large scratches I used interlux watertite epoxy filler but for the small scratches is was multiple coats of epoxy primekote primer. Each coat was sanded down with 220 grit. I did quite a bit of longboarding but I started with an orbital sander to get the major imperfections out then longboarded until I was through the primer...repeat


I know this is an old thread, but wanted to add my complements. I know how long it took you to do that fantastic bottom job. I've done that sort of work. Lots of sanding is an understatement--it's lots of sanding, over and over again. Sweet job. I have been thinking about doing something like this on my boat, but I know how long it will actually take and I have other obligations.

I have one question if you still follow this thread and read this. How fast is it WOT with that perfect bottom on flat water? What does it weigh? and what is your motor?

[Night_Sailor]

Thanks guys, it is actually Interlux Perfection Flag Blue, but it does look black in the pics. Looks like I'll be stripping and sanding the deck AGAIN....NOOOOO, that damn Petite Easypoxy is as soft as Boy George in a strip club. I can scrape it up in spots with my fingernail. My guess is that I put it on too thick.

Working my way backwards through this old thread. Do you thin that paint? I use Interlux Perfection and thin it 40% and have to lay down an extra coat, but it seems to work really well and is hard a rock.

[tartuffe]

Working my way backwards through this old thread. Do you thin that paint? I use Interlux Perfection and thin it 40% and have to lay down an extra coat, but it seems to work really well and is hard a rock.

Hi Night, I kinda lurk on the forum so if it pops up I'll see it but anyway...the boat weight, I have no idea, I know its lighter than when I started the restore. The hatches and fuel tank cover alone went from 88 lbs to 33 with the foam cores. The whole deck was probably another 150 lbs less.

The boat tops out at around 44 knots with a 200 Evinrude spinning a 15x17 prop. I am sure it could do much better if I went to a 19 pitch but I enjoy being able to pull a wakeboarder out in about 3 seconds flat as well as stand it up in a nasty 3 foot chop in a 5 second wave period.

I did thin the perfection down to 10%, max thinning per instructions, it was still too thick and had alot of orange peel maybe 40% is the magic number, after 6 tries I just went ahead and sprayed it.

Thanks for the compliments, still trying to decide if I am ready to try it again.

[Striper80]

Just went over your build thread again, great job. I was wondering what rub rail you used on your build? Is the insert stainless? I was also wondering how long you ran the boat with the heavy re-enforcement on the back? Thanks

[tartuffe]

The boat had that heavy plate on it when I bought it so it had been at least five years of running before tear down and I would guess at least 2 years prior to my purchase based on its condition. That is a Taco brand rub rail with a vinyl insert.

http://tacomarine.com/item--1-5-8-x-3-4-Semi-Rigid-Vinyl-Rub-Rail-Kit-with-Flex-Chrome-Insert--V11-9811.html

[Striper80]

Thanks I think that rubrail will be a little more in my price range than the one with the stainless insert.