Taking the plunge!

[ludacrous999b]

Hey all, new here. Just bought myself a brand spanking new (lol) old boat. This 1981 v20 CC (steplift?) was so low in cost I couldnt pass it up. I know it will be a project boat, and I KNOW I'll sink a bag of money or two into it, but that boat it pretty to me right now and I cant wait to get started on her.

Here she is! (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120687732212#ht_2493wt_1165)

I'm starting a restoration thread on iboats to get opinions on restoration and repair. Anything you all (as v20 owners) would have to imput on first impressions would be really helpful.

Thanks in advance!

[Destroyer]

Welcome to the site. Congratulations on your purchase. Like all V20 project boats you have a diamond in the rough. How much you are willing to spend in time and money will determine how brilliant your finished boat will be. You've certainly come to the right place for information on what to do and not to do on how to restore her. The people here have years of experience in these matters. So if you have questions, just ask away or better yet, do a search here for the answer to your questions. At the very least, you got a tandem axle trailer for under $500, and assuming it's not rusted out that's a good deal in itself. Please remember that one picture is worth a thousand words.. and we love boat porn here. So please post pictures of your restoration project.. it's the thing we love to see most..... well, almost most.. there are a few other things I can think of, but this is a family site. :beer:

[reelapeelin]

Hey all, new here. Just bought myself a brand spanking new (lol) old boat. This 1981 v20 CC (steplift?) was so low in cost I couldnt pass it up. I know it will be a project boat, and I KNOW I'll sink a bag of money or two into it, but that boat it pretty to me right now and I cant wait to get started on her.

Here she is! (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120687732212#ht_2493wt_1165)

I'm starting a restoration thread on iboats to get opinions on restoration and repair. Anything you all (as v20 owners) would have to imput on first impressions would be really helpful.

Thanks in advance!

Welcome to the site...are you the same Ludacrous as seen on THT for lo, these many years?

[step up here]

welcome to the site.
dont even think of touching the out drive and motor other then to remove it! the boat is just fine and still is truly one to finish with a bracket and outboard motor. butt! then again its your boat now and i wish you the best of luck with your project.:clap:

[ludacrous999b]

Welcome to the site...are you the same Ludacrous as seen on THT for lo, these many years?

I'm afraid not, couldn't even tell you what the THT forum? is. Bought new tie downs ratchet straps, light kit and high temp grease for the trip home. I'm really worried about those tires, located some shops down there that can replace the tire for me, hoping the bearings and hubs aren't ready to fall off.

As far as the I/O goes, I have an old friend who has done marine motor repairs, gone as far as breaking a seized motor and getting them running well. I'm about to invest in researching the dreaded OMC downsides. I won't ask here b/c I'm sure there will be plenty of previous posts to go by.


And BTW Reelapeel, I'm from Charlotte, NC. I'm in the military and was put in the lovely middle of nowhere Missouri, or Misery as I've taken to calling it ;-) At least there is a decent lake nearby to keep me motivated!

[spareparts]

If you got it for $275, you did pretty good. I have 26 years in the marine business, I held a Mercruiser Master, Mercury Certified, OMC sterdrive, Yamaha 5 Star, Volvo gas certified, and various other classes, schools and marine education. I can tell you with out a doubt, from my experiance, do not waste one dime on that motor and drive. Pull it out, glass up the transom, put a bracket on the back, bolt an outboard on and ride. There are very few parts available for those drives. I can't tell from the pic, but if its a hydromechanical drive(no anode above the antiventalation plate), the factory couldn't even make them work, if its a mechanical drive, they only work for a short amount of time before breaking again. IF you want to swap out for another type of I/O setup, you're still going to have to glass up the transom and start from scratch anyway. Unless you find a bad boat with a good drive, it will cost you far more than dong the outboard bracket idea.

PS, welcome to the site, feel free to ask any questions and good luck

[ludacrous999b]

Thanks for the advice on the motor. My main concerns start with the hull transom stringers and deck. I came into this one knowing the boat would have some problems but I love a project. I've heard a lot about Wellcrafts having leaky transoms, so it's the first place I'll look.

So I just went to marineengine.com and looked at my era engine, parts? unavailable, unavailable, unavailable, $14.44 for a water drain elbow adapter... out of stock...

[Road King Cole]

Welcome to the site. Definitely a diamond in the rough.

Another option would be to convert it to an outboard. MJ has a great thread on that for when he did it to his.

rkc

[ludacrous999b]

Got the boat picked up yesterday and got her home, haven't had time to get in her and give her a once over. (I did not pick the boat up personally) The boat was purchased from the first owner, amazingly! The original owners manual and the maintenance records were included. My agent tells me that the recent documents show thousands in work done. Then the owners just seemed to stop. The bboat sat for 4 years so who knows if they negated the work done by bad storage. I'm very interested in looking over the paperwork and the boat tonight. And YES I will post pictures.

[reelapeelin]

Got the boat picked up yesterday and got her home, haven't had time to get in her and give her a once over. (I did not pick the boat up personally) The boat was purchased from the first owner, amazingly! The original owners manual and the maintenance records were included. My agent tells me that the recent documents show thousands in work done. Then the owners just seemed to stop. The bboat sat for 4 years so who knows if they negated the work done by bad storage. I'm very interested in looking over the paperwork and the boat tonight. And YES I will post pictures.


Ludacrous...you really did a nice job buyin that boat for PENNIES...Hope you'll strongly consider following Spareparts advise on converting to outboard/bracket combo...he ain't BSing about it...knows what he's talking about...good luck either way and keep us posted...from out there in Misery...LOL!!...you comin back to Charlotte when sevice ends?...

[ludacrous999b]

Here are the pictures I promised. Unfortunatly mother nature has other plans than me cleaning out the interior of the boat. I was able to pull out all the old wood seating, engine cover and cabin uphulstry and spray it all down with the hose. I was able to unclog the rear drain plug and oh my lord how the water rolled out. Got to get this stuff cleaned up! Clean pictures to follow when the rain stops falling!

Need a new winch and stop for the bow, rust coming out on the bow ring.
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03242Small.jpg

This is the only hull damage on the boat I've spotted do far.
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03243Small.jpg

Some hull shots follow, the gel coat just seems gone, and the paint is powdering off on my hands.
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03244Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03247Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03248Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03249Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03250Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03258Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03256Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03257Small.jpg

More to follow.

[ludacrous999b]

The nessecary bow shot
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03245Small.jpg

A few of the metal parts look like this on the hull. The windshield and glass look good.
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03252Small.jpg

Shots of the Cuddy damage.
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03259Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03261Small.jpg

A view of my beautiful deck.
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03263Small.jpg

Thru deck pics
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03268Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03266Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03267Small.jpg

Fuel tank
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03265Small.jpg

[ludacrous999b]

Now the horrid horrid part of my purchase!
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03253Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03255Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03270Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03272Small.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03273Small.jpg

[reelapeelin]

The "horrid, horrid" part...remove it all and after that, you won't believe the relief you'll feel and how much easier it'll make your restoration...:clap:

You mention the gelcoat gone...not at all...just oxidized as expected of one neglected in the sun over time...3M makes an oxidation remover & hull restorer that'll have her lookin' like new...go ahead and pick up a buffer ($25 at Harbour Freight) and save a lot of elbow grease...thanks for all the great pics...just to prove it can be done, here's my previous 21 the day I bought it

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90/reelapeelin/95V21II21010.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90/reelapeelin/95V21I21010.jpg

And her's the same boat the next day...

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90/reelapeelin/95V-21050.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90/reelapeelin/95V-21054.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90/reelapeelin/74Goodbye325.jpg

Yeah...I's just kiddin' about the next day thing....LOL!!...Lookin forward to seein' the progression on yours...it'll all be worth it the 1st time you shove that throttle forward and yer cruisin' across the water...:clap:

[ludacrous999b]

Had the local shade tree mechanic come over. He used to work in Corpus Christi on marine engines, electrical and even did freelance upholstery. HAH! Well he saw my wife at the bar she works at and asked if we got the boat, and was downright excited to come over and look at the engine. He looked at it about 3 minutes on the outside, asked a few questions, played with the throttle, steering, looked inside the carb... "Oh yea, we'll get this thing unseized and working no problem, I've done lots like this before, I'll be back tomorrow when its warmer, WD-40 the entire engine outside and pour half a bottle of Marvell Mystery Oil into the carb. We will put the other half in the spark plug ports tomorrow."

Well I cant beat that with a stick, "So friend whats your rate?"

"Oh I cant make the lady that serves me beer hurt, how about we don't do a rate and every 4 hours I put in on a day or around that we call it $50, and some beers here and there"

Well I cant beat that with an automatic beating device!

Why are people so afraid of these engines? I's just and old GM. GM is GM right? Or are we talking about all the other parts that end up attached to the block? And couldnt the block be modified to accept these parts?

[ludacrous999b]

Well today I had the local shade tree mechanic come over. Yesterday per his instructions I put a full pint of Marvell Mystery Oil down into the carb. Today he came out with a pipe wrench and put it on the harmonic balancer. He stepped on it one way, stepped on it the other way. She broke loose. 5 minutes. WD-40 into the ports, and about 10 more minutes of turning and the girl turns freely. The starter is dead. Put a new battery in it, there is no key so we jumped across the solenoid. It clicks, we turned the engine by hand while jumping the starter and it started making a trying noise but it wont crank her over. Sprayed down the bilge and engine with engine degreaser, going to pressure wash out the inside of the boat and the below decks region so I can see what I'm working with and so we can work on the under part of the engine without living in 2 inches of grease.

I cleaned the boat exterior today.
Before
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03256Small.jpg

After
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03276Small.jpg

Before
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03258Small.jpg

After
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03275Small.jpg

Before
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03270Small.jpg

After
http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03277Small.jpg

[RWilson2526]

Awesome progress... I knew that outside was gonna clean up big time....looked really pristine under that grime.....good luck with that motor for $50 bucks a day and some beer its worth some effort to at least see what you got.

Keep the pics coming

[ludacrous999b]

Looking inside the engine it looks brand new on the interior. From what I understand I need a marine grade starter. How will I know what starter to put on this boat? I cant take it to the auto parts store and we dont have a marine supplier around here. I know they sell starters on Ebay, does it have to be a specific starter or does it have to match the engine?

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03285Small.jpg
text says...

"c103
GM 6269132 N1
Firing Order
165432"

4.3L V6 OMC

[ludacrous999b]

Awesome progress... I knew that outside was gonna clean up big time....looked really pristine under that grime.....good luck with that motor for $50 bucks a day and some beer its worth some effort to at least see what you got.

Keep the pics coming

Thanks, I was amazed at how much of the oxidation came off. I plan on taking some 409 to it in a small spot to test how it'll work. I know it takes off soap scum so.... I've read about baking soda paste for the aluminum trim and around the windshield. Any other tips for polishing that up?

We worked the steering loose today too, really good start. The trim isnt seized up and like I said we broke the steering loose. Greased up the lower unit. The prop shaft turns easily, very easily, I put my ear to the lower unit while turning and I could hear the gears working. Smooth sounding. We were wondering why the steering was so hard to turn. After we did that we sat and pondered the next steps on the engine. While sitting my guy (Kevin) says to himself well I can go ahead and take that power steering pump off... DUHH, figured out why the steering was so tight!

If we can get her to turn over and run (points look good) we are planning on a new carb, alternator and starter. He says to price them off of a 79' Impala. Thoughts fellas?

[spareparts]

Its not the engine thats the problem, its the drive that theres nothing available for. On your starter, it will either have a long bolt/short bolt or it will have two long bolts holding it in place. I can't remeber which one gioes to which flywheel , but keep the same bolt pattern and you'll be OK. You can get a new starter from ebasicpower.com or boats.com . If it were me, I'd have a local starter shop look at teh starter to see if its worth saving. Not knowing teh conditon of the engine, I'd raterh not drop teh cash on a marine starter just to find out the motor is junk, expolain your situation to the guys at the starter shop, they may be able to help you out. From the pics I see, ther isn't an anode above hte antiventaltion plate. That means you have a hydromechanical drive. Do not try to shift it with out the motor running, it will mess up the shift cable. If it happens to actually shift, consider yourself lucky. Form what IO see on your boat, I'd be awlful temted to look or an outboard bracket and redo the transom, you'll be happier in the long run

[ludacrous999b]

Also an update on a previous post. I stated the boat had sat for four years. Yea more like 12. Considering this I'd say we're doing well. This was also a salt water boat. *whew* gonna be a challenge.

[ludacrous999b]

Well the boat is on the back burner until I get back from Jamiaca, I'll continue cleaning and working on the engine, as long as its low cost stuff. The wife reminds me all inclusive resorts are great but if we leave the resort we have to pay for things :hide:.

Will be back on it hard core after the 18th of April. Will continue to post pictures of the progress.

Spoke with a guy from SEI Marine. They do outdrive conversion kits for many brands of outdrives. He informed me outright that I was basically screwed if I wanted a different outdrive. They make the holes too big so I'd have to refill the transom, cut a new hole and remake the hole for the outdrive... Well that confirms what you all have said. I'm going to try to get this all in working order, survive for a season or two then get ready for a transom rebuild project and do the outboard bracket. I love the idea of the outboard, more room on the deck, big live well :).

This break before the Jamiaca trip will give me time to research all the projects I wanna work on before getting it on the water (minus the outboard conversion) so I'm ready to hit the ground running when I return.


Current planned projects:

1. Check all wiring for continuity, replace worn or damaged cables.

2. Replace the Cuddy Cabins wood.

3. Clean the Cuddy cushions.

4. Continue cleaning the exterior hull to try to get down to gel coat.

5. Construct new seat bases for passengers, get a new captains chair (temporary, may construct our own)

6. Replace the ignition (no key with boat).

7. Replace Nav light and anchor lights, replace horn.

8. All the little things that randomly come up in the process of fixing all the other things you want to fix.

[RWilson2526]

Oh for God's sake!!!! Right in the early stages of a what looks to be a real decent restoration thread you go on vacation! Thanks alot....Have a good time I guess....

[ludacrous999b]

LOL, there will be more before i leave, this was the heads up post!

[Destroyer]

Oh for God's sake!!!! Right in the early stages of a what looks to be a real decent restoration thread you go on vacation! Thanks alot....Have a good time I guess....

You know RW, some people have absolutely no concept of "priorities"... :booty:

[Blue_Runner]

Eh Mon, ya be sef oer der and herry bek!

p.s. nice work on the boat/motor so far.

[ludacrous999b]

Ya know blue I used to work at catawba college, built sets and ran the road shows through their theatre dept. Lived in charlotte up until two years ago. Thanks for the encouragment.

[Blue_Runner]

Oh cool! Right around the corner from here. I lived in Charlotte while attending UNCC. Couldn't wait to get away! I'm a country boy at heart, thankfully!

[ludacrous999b]

No boat porn today, I spent about three hours cleaning out the bilges. They are still not clean all the way. The bow, live well, and most of the engine bilges are clean, I'll have to spray a ton of degreaser in there. That thing is filthy. The after region where the deck drains into the rear by the transom, then filters down to the sides of the engine stringers then is supposed to filter into the live well, then engine bilges. Stupid. Anyone object to drilling new drains through the engine stringers straight into the engine bilge if I waterproof them?

[ludacrous999b]

Trying out a product to remove oxidation. Seasense cleaner wax, sold at my local wally world. Turning out to get a shine (which I was able to do) Apply seasense, buff, turtle wax rubbing and polishing compound, buff, then turtlewax polish, buff. 2' x 2' sections work. Tried just the rubbing compound and polish, no luck. Had to get all the oxidation off with the Seasense. Finding I'm having to do it all by hand except the final buff. Still not a quick process. But it does shine.

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/DSC03294Doctored.jpg

[ludacrous999b]

Here is a step by step of what I did today, my last two posts were kinda jumbled.

1. Used a lemon and salt combination to try to remove some oxidation on the aluminium frame of the drivers side windshield, some success but it will take FOREVER to try to do it with this natural kind of cleaner, not to mention a lemon trees worth of lemons. Worked the drivers side and started washing it down and...

2. Crawled into the cuddy and sprayed that down, then decided shag carped is prolly holding a little tiny itty butty bit of mold... Started ripping it out, found 9 abandoned mud dobber nestes and a lot of collected dirt under the carpet. Got from the bow to starboard side. As I was ripping it out i noticed a goodly amount of dust flying out. Then some insane itching. Well crap, so I abandoned the carpet pull and started....

3. I removed the wood trip in the cuddy and the guide rails on top of the bow. Worked on removing the deck cleats, nav lights and old bow railing bases. They started crumbling as I tried to remove them. Pain to remove the screws with those little stop tabs on the bottom side when its just me there...

4. Decided to remove the dust and dirt from the cuddy and spray it down the bilges. Noticed the anchor storage bin does not have a bilge drain in it... Smart. Sprayed from the front to the back working all the dirt down, past the live well bins, into the engine bilge.

5. Mechanic needs me to clean the grease out of the bilge area so I started spraying down the area and noticed my drain plug kept getting clogged so I let it finish draining and pulled 12-15 big handfuls of dirt and debris (all slimy and oily) from the area under the engine and tossed it into the garbage (environmentalism and all) then started spraying down the bilge and using the old oil dip stick with it's curvy bottom to dig the blockages out. It's still a little dirty down there but I'll get some dawn, plug up the drain plug hole and fill her up to the bottom of the engine to eat some of that grease.

6. Noticed the poor drainage design from the deck drain holes, to the aft area bilge, the port sides drain hole from the aft to the engine transom drain has been eaten away, there must be 4 inches of scum under that hole. I am going to have to cut through the decking and see the extent of the damage. The starboard side seems to drain well still and has not gone through to the lower bilges. Seems good and solid too.

7. And as stated in the previous post polished the hull some and worked on oxidation removal. Still don't know how I'm going to get the underside of the boat. I'm not lucky as some of you fine folks. This is a town-home and I'm lucky enough to be able to do it in the driveway without the neighbors going bonkers. Heck thats why I don't want to do any sanding or grinding if I can help it. The dust would end up on all the neighbors cars. So I have no room to lift the boat, nor a tree to do it from etc. etc. etc.

Questions comments greetings of the season?

[ludacrous999b]

Brr... Cold day. Washed the boat some more. Turns out one of those empty bottles of motor oil was empty because it was coating the deck of the boat so todays task was cleaning it out so it was no longer a slip-n-slide in there. Got the rest of the mildew off the inside of the boat too. The section I shined up yesterday on the hull looks great. I can really tell the difference in the better light.

Got a sample of the Durabak yesterday in the mail. Got my foot on it right now to see how long I can stand on it before or if it ever becomes uncomfortable to stand on.

Supposed to be in the 70s all week here starting around tuesday, Gonna try to remove all the screws and trim and get all the oxidation off. Any suggestions on steps? If I remove all the oxidation and let it sit for a few weeks before polishing it will it be okay? I don't see it being 3 weeks but wanna be careful.

[ludacrous999b]

Well, needless to say I haven't done much to the boat because I haven't posted anything on here. Life took hold. Army can be a hell of thing. Recently moved, got the place all cleaned up and now looking forward to working on the boat some. I have no plans of putting it in the water this year or for two years after. I found out I get to take a trip to the Republic of Korea. Joy. Regardless, I'll have plenty of time this summer to work on the beast and hopefully have it in a good state to be stored for a couple years.

[Kracker Jack]

Well, needless to say I haven't done much to the boat because I haven't posted anything on here. Life took hold. Army can be a hell of thing. Recently moved, got the place all cleaned up and now looking forward to working on the boat some. I have no plans of putting it in the water this year or for two years after. I found out I get to take a trip to the Republic of Korea. Joy. Regardless, I'll have plenty of time this summer to work on the beast and hopefully have it in a good state to be stored for a couple years.

Just wanted to say thank you for your service to our country!!! good luck on your project

[ludacrous999b]

Engine removal stalled... Well the mounting bolts are removed and the engine swings around but DOH! Learning experiences happen every day right. Bell housing... Evil. Well daylight is fading, looks like tomorrow will get it going again!

[ludacrous999b]

Gotta love it, found the repair manual for 1964-1986 OMC sterndrives and a separate one for wiring diagrams for all years of OMC. Already learning lots of new things. If anyone needs a copy let me know, I still have the links.

[reelapeelin]

Get what you can done this summer...she'll be waiting for you whenever you get back...and I'm glad yer goin' to Korea instead of Afghanistan...

[ludacrous999b]

ARGH! Can anyone describe the location of the bell housing bolts or better yet, provide a picture, its so tight back there I cant really see them!

[ludacrous999b]

ARGH! Can anyone describe the location of the bell housing bolts or better yet, provide a picture, its so tight back there I cant really see them!

Well I located the bell housing bolts, boy howdy their in a tough spot. I had to spray them down with WD-40. Let them soak until tomorrow. Put some more elbow grease into the hull, slowly bringing that shine back to the gelcoat. At least I got the gunwale done on the side I'm hopping in and out of, keep that lovely white powder off my clothes when I just wanna get in the boat!

Lost my shade tree mechanic to another state. Found some guys at work, mechanics. They enjoy rebuilding engines. We'll see what the pain and suffering is on the block. I'm almost expecting to replace anything attached to it, (starter, alternator, steering, etc.) I can feel the dollars adding up already.

[reelapeelin]

Well I located the bell housing bolts, boy howdy their in a tough spot. I had to spray them down with WD-40. Let them soak until tomorrow. Put some more elbow grease into the hull, slowly bringing that shine back to the gelcoat. At least I got the gunwale done on the side I'm hopping in and out of, keep that lovely white powder off my clothes when I just wanna get in the boat!

Lost my shade tree mechanic to another state. Found some guys at work, mechanics. They enjoy rebuilding engines. We'll see what the pain and suffering is on the block. I'm almost expecting to replace anything attached to it, (starter, alternator, steering, etc.) I can feel the dollars adding up already.

sorry to hear yer mechanic got away...good ones are hard to find...hope those bell housing bolts come out for ya the easy way....you got a torch?...and if you do, make sure no gasoline layin on engine somewhere...fuel lines, etc...

[ludacrous999b]

Well, more reading on here has taught me the value of inspection. When this engine comes out, the sterndrive is going to fall off and find it's self available for resale. After drilling into the transom I have discovered very damp wood and some rot. This has gone from a service the engine to get her running and float around a while to a rip out of the bastage and a transom rebuild.

Objective: Have the transom repaired and ready for an outboard when I return from Korea. I have all summer to complete the project so the only limiting factor is cost. Questions to follow...

Game plan to this moment...

1. Remove the engine and sterndrive and sell them for whatever I can get. Parts are hard to come by so maybe I can get at least a few bucks.

2. The thought kicking around in my head is to cut the cap about 1 foot from the transom, cut down the inside and across the deck, then just remove that portion of the cap. This will give me inspection of the inside of the hull to determine if I need to go further forward with a cap removal, and access to the rear of the boat for the transom work.

3... Guess I'll be researching designs that have been successful for outboard conversions. Cut the design and get my hands dirty with some glass work.


If I remove the entire cap I'll have a much easier time with wiring and interior work wont I? Previous experience is appreciated. Welcome to suggestions, advice and laughter.

[ludacrous999b]

I SWEAR!!! I'm not touching anything else on that boat until I've done at LEAST 40 more hours of reading on here... Looking through old posts about cutting the transom down for an outboard application has led me to believe that I may be keel hauled at the very least for the transgression!

http://www.dhcampingandfishingsupply.com/61012.html

Thanks for the low cost, high adaptability option. Having not owned an outboard before or had much experience with them I figured the splash well option would be best, but the word on here is keep that baby's behind in tact! Now off the research how much epoxy/cloth/etc. I will need for the transom rebuild.

[tartuffe]

Those jack plates are really nice. If you keep the transom intact, you will need the 10" extension to provide engine clearance when you trim the engine back.

I also have an 81 20' that I just took apart. Pics are under "here she is." I gotta say that while my boat may be the exception rather than the rule, for the amount of wood that did not have glass on it at virtually every cross-member, I would find it hard to believe your stringers do not have some issues.

I hope I am wrong but with that said, if you cut the back end off that cap and then find you need to take the cap off, you now have even more work to do to fix that cut. Also, you are now going to need to do nice looking work with grinding gelcoat back, fairing, in multiple radius. Taking the cap off on these boats is not a complicated process provided you have a means to lift it whether an engine lift or a come along over a branch. It probably weighs 400 lbs and is pretty stiff.

Regarding estimating materials, plan on wetting out 36 SF of 1708 with each gallon of resin. Plan on at least a half gallon for attaching the first layer of ply to the transom skin and then another 1/2 gallon to glue the 2nd layer of ply to the first. I also used 2 $20 bags of cabosil, 1/2 gallon of ground glass fibers from US Composites and around 3 quarts of 1/4" glass fibers. (all of this went into that gallon of PB mix) You will need two sheets of 3/4 ply as well. You can only get 1 layer of ply out of each sheet if you do not plan on cutting it. I found a $3 trowel from lowes with1/4" gap with every other tooth broken out worked good for spreading the PB with the 1/4" chopped glass.

[ludacrous999b]

Thanks for the info and the encouragement, I was concerned about the weight of the cap, I'm thinking you need to remove the windshield before you pop the cap. My comealong rig will pull 1200lbs and I have a good sturdy tree I parked the boat under. We'll see.

[Kracker Jack]

As Tartuffe stated about materials I started out with 12 yards of 1708 and 5 gallons of resin,a 3 pound box of cabosil,and I cut and chopped my own glass for chopped glass . Then what i did after that purchase was take it weekend by weekend on material purchases,I simply bought material as I needed it. Just remember a 4 1/2 inch grinder is your friend, if you don't have one then get one.

[Destroyer]

Just remember a 4 1/2 inch grinder is your friend, if you don't have one then get one.

And get a good one. Cheaper in the long run. It will last longer, vibrate less and run cooler.
And a little tip... take some cheesecloth and tape it across the air intakes of your grinder...it's far easier to replace the cloth when it gets loaded up with glass fibers than it is to take apart and clean the unit.

[ludacrous999b]

This was my order from Harbor Freight, I'm having it shipped to me because instead of taking the truck 90 miles each way, I paid a quite modest if you ask me.... $21.00 shipping. WOW. 158 pounds for 21 bucks and I get it Friday/Saturday, ordered Tuesday..

AIR HOSE-3/8IN X 50'
17PC ACCY KIT W/ BRASS COUPLER
MULTI-METER DIGITAL 7 FUNCTION
DRILL AIR REVERSIBLE 3/8 IN
AIR ANGLE GRINDER 4IN
ROTARY TOOL SET 80 PCS
AIR SANDER
TOOL BAG-ROLLAWAY 20IN
6AMP RECIP SAW VRS ROTAT HNDL
WINCH ELECTRIC 12V IN/OUT
COMPRESSOR 10GAL 2.5HP OILLUBE
VACUUM/BLOWER WET/DRY 2.2 GAL

Tonight I wandered off to lowes, picked up the lumber for 4 sawhorses, 4 2x4s and 14 2x3s, and....

3/8ths Air Ratchet
Air Tool Oil
Gallon of Acetone
Chain and link for the hoist
2 clip on utility lights
Contractor trash bags
Tyvek Suit with hood and boots,
Nitrile Glloves
Respirator
Safety Goggles
Cheese Cloth
Screws
Shop Towels
and last but not least, Hand broom and deep dustpan.
Looking forward to a great weekend getting the engine out and top off the boat. As usual I always forget something. I need a flexible driver attachment to get those bolts loose from the bell housing.

[RidgeRunner]

Subscribed. Now there is no turning back. Did a Center console cap removal in 1998. Everything gets exposed. Fuel tank, stringers, plenty of room to work. Only takes a screwdriver hammer winch strong tree and some drivable wedges to help free the cap from the top of the stringers. Keep up the good work. You have your hands full, just keep plugging at it and remember this is fun stuff. I wish I had a project right now. :beer:

[tartuffe]

Sounds like you have more than enough to get started. I wouldn't un pack items until you need them. You may be able to send some of that stuff back not knowing what you already had in your tool kit.

I really like my "mechanix" gloves. The burn isn't as bad when you knick yourself with that grinder. Also, I find that when i really get into a righteous grinding session the one thing that stops me the longest is having to get the dust out of my goggles. I bought a $20 pair that fit tight to my face from grainger. They do 100 times better than the $6 pair I originally started with but I wish they were better.

I wear over the ear hearing protection as well, it helps keep the tyvek close to my head and prevents the late-hour ringing. Being safe and comfortable are the most important things at this stage. Grinding isn't bad so long as you have the right equipment. Its actually kind of soothing.

[ludacrous999b]

Good thing about working in the Army they give you a certain level of protective equipment already, I distribute fuel so I come pre loaded with over the ear muffs, coveralls and some fuel soaked gloves that have become so old they actually fit.... like... a glove!I plan on layering au natural, coveralls, tyvek, nitrile gloves then the leathers over top of that.

I hear what your saying about the goggles, I'm blind as a bat and have to wear my glasses to see any real detail which could be the difference between grinding the fiberglass or putting a hole in the boat, damned depth perception! The glasses hold the edge of the goggles open just ever so slightly, maybe painters tape over the edge...

Thanks all for the advice and encouragement, keep it coming. My XO invited me golfing Saturday morning, but afternoon is ALL boat. (well getting ready for Sunday boat, wanna rig and test the winch, organize the tools, and set the plan out in my head)

Off to make some sawhorses!

[Destroyer]

I hear what your saying about the goggles, I'm blind as a bat and have to wear my glasses to see any real detail which could be the difference between grinding the fiberglass or putting a hole in the boat, damned depth perception! The glasses hold the edge of the goggles open just ever so slightly, maybe painters tape over the edge...


I've been wearing glasses since I was 4 years old. Found out long ago that a full face shield is usually way better than goggles.... Surprisingly, the dust that I was afraid would get into my eyes usually doesn't ... but for glass grinding the goggles really are necessary. You don't want that crap anywhere on you if possible.

[ludacrous999b]

Welp, slow day on the construction site I would say, OLD OLD OLD cordless drill is having some issues climbing the "stay charged" stairs. Got two with legs, charged for an hour, got legs on another, charging now. Cut out the rest of the pieces. Going to frame them out around the bottoms so that I can nest one inside of another. Cant really tell but one is two inches shorter in width than the other to allow it to sit inside the 49in one.

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/IMG_20120329_180156.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/IMG_20120329_181145.jpg

And I never added this one, makes me long for the day when this is a trip to the lake, not just a move to a new location!

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/IMG_20111124_095603.jpg

[ludacrous999b]

Todays work consisted mostly of incrating tools, getting last second things like thread tape, and getting all organized and rigging the hoist.

Toward the end of the day I started working on the boat. I removed all the screws that held the cap in place and began working on the console. Well great, the screws just spin, in finding out why I have discovered just how hollow the walls are between the deck and the cuddy. That may just get cleared out and filled, I dont believe its structural. ***opinions?***

So I abandonded the console for the time being and decided to work with the hoist and try to free the engine. I got many adapters and extensions and flex heads, etc. just to see if I could get the bell housing loose. No dice. So I removed the Stern Drive. GREAT! Well I cut the transom gasket to let it free, and began hoisting. There was one engine mounting bolt that would NOT come free the other day and I got it loose and up about 4 inches and it just span, I assumed it was rotten underneeth and it would just come out... Boy howdy did that sucker hold on, and on, and on.... *CRACK* There goes my hoisting branch. So I let the hoist out and inspected the damage. Mother nature isn't happy with me today. I'll have to cut that limb down soon. The good news on this side is.... If the hoist had not broken the tree limb I'm sure I could have gotten that engine out. It was hanging on by a thread, but I wanted to really tug on it before I let it loose to crowbar that motor mount (starboard rear). Glad I didnt just jump in and start prying, that tree limb was weak...

I shot pictures all through the day on my phone, plugged it into the computer and POOF! The phone restarted and all the pictures from today are gone :( Will have to recreate tomorrow. As far as all the tools from harbor freight are concerned I'm very pleased so far.

I'll get back out tomorrow and take pictures of the progress. It's dinner time right now though.

[ludacrous999b]

Went out to one of my Co-Workers houses today and used his big beefy branch to pull the engine out! There was one half rotted bolt that just spun in the hole so we just hoisted and pried with a good old fashioned crowbar! After that was free it was just a matter of disconnecting the steering and the throttle cables and BAM! Floating engine! Now, to get this thing out of my truck, LOL!




http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull1.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull4.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull5.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull6.jpg

[ludacrous999b]

Images after getting her home. Got her off the truck (shocks sighed about 4in lol!) and lowered onto the ground. Now I need to figure out what to strip before I put her up for sale.

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull7.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull8.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull9.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull10.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull11.jpg

http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m539/ludacrous999b/EnginePull12.jpg

[ludacrous999b]

Well its been a sad week in rebuild land. I am without my truck. The warranty ran out 200 miles and 12 days before the overdrive gear completely went out, 1/2 shifts hard and some kind of water leak. But hey! That's what a warranty's for. So I've been in a rental since last Monday and cant move the boat back into my work space. Looking forward to getting back on her, grinder discs and sandpaper en route.