View Full Version : Black Plugs  / what now ?
wildtalk
09-21-2010, 06:27 PM
These plugs ( attached picture )  have less then 10 hours run time in a johnson 150 hp 1987. I had motor service just a month ago .  I replaced them with spare set I had on standby. question is what do I need adjust ? Plug gap ?  oil ?  Oil Mix ( its an auto mix injection )  or change plugs type .  They are Champion QL77JC4. Any and all help will be welcomed
Macrenovations
09-21-2010, 07:35 PM
Had the same problem, The motor was getting way to much fuel adjust your  carbs and make sure they are setup the same way. At least you know your  getting oil and that's a great thing.
Here's the basic read on spark plugs that I found and a chart on which  plugs to use and gap settings.Hope this helps. I set my plugs a 28 gap  instead of the 30 seems run a little better and not foul out the plugs  as quick.
 		For a two-stroke engine, having a fresh spark plug is incredibly important. So you should check your plug often.
By  "reading" the color of the plug you can tell a lot of things about how  the engine is running. The top of a new spark plug is covered in white  ceramic insulation. If your engine is running perfectly, then this part  of the plug would soon become a tan color. If your plug is grey or  white, than you know that your engine is running too lean and you need  to take steps to prevent engine damage. First, clean your fuel system,  looking for any blockage. Dirt in your carb can cause the bike to run  lean. Check your fuel mixture to see if you are mixing the oil and fuel  in the correct proportions (50 parts fuel to 1 part oil). There are many  factors that can cause an oil and fuel mixture that worked great to  become less than ideal. The brand of the gas and the oil as well as air  density can affect how well the mixture works.
The lean condition  can also be caused by fresh air entering the engine somewhere it  shouldn't. So you should look for loose intake manifold bolts, leaks in  the carburetor mounting, faulty gaskets and leaks in the crank seals.  You may also need to change to a larger carburetor jet.
If your  spark plug is black or oily than that means the engine is running too  rich and is not properly combusting fuel. This problem can be caused by  too much oil in the fuel and oil mixture and/or having a faulty spark  plug that is misfiring.  First, you should figure out if the spark plug  is the problem. To do so, touch the electrode end of the plug to the  engine while pulling the starter. If the sparks that result are blue,  then you know you have a fully functioning plug. Install the plug and  run the bike for a few minutes. Then stop the bike, remove the spark  plug and look at it. If the plug is dark and oily, then you know that  the problem is not your plug. You should check your oil and fuel  mixture. If the bike's engine stumbles, sounds clogged up or doesn't run  clear than you might want to get a smaller carburetor jet.
While  you should regularly inspect your spark plug, it is essential to check  your plug after any type of engine modification to make sure the engine  isn't running too lean. For standard use, the NGK B7HS short thread  plugs and B9ES long thread plugs are recommended. For use in  competition, the NGK B7HS-10 short thread plugs and the NGK BR9EIX long  thread plugs are recommended.
First check your coil for a healthy  spark. Use a fresh plug and ground the electrode to the engine while  pulling the starter - the spark should be a healthy blue. If so, install  the fresh plug, and operate the bike normally for a few minutes, remove  the new plug and "read" it. If it still appears blackened or oily, the  problem lies elsewhere. A hotter plug in not recommended - make sure  your fuel mix is correct, and consider a smaller jet only if the bike  stumbles or sounds "full of snot" and doesn't run crisp. Operating your  bike a little too rich won't hurt it - but too lean is never good. A  little dirt in your carb could cause it to run lean, and you wouldn't  even know why your bike was running so nice and crisp until it seized
   
  
   Hope some of this helps
  
 	
 
150, 155 (90º crossflow V6) 1978 - 1987 UL77V or L16V Surface Gap
http://www.boatsetup.com/SparkPlugChart.pdf
THEFERMANATOR
09-21-2010, 11:10 PM
Does it smoke blue at idle? If so you may have an air leak going to your VRO pump which will make it dump oil in. I persoanally pre-mix all of mine just so I don't have to worry about problems with the VRO and dealwith some smoke at idle. Also have the link and sync checked and make sure its right, and that all of the air bleeds in the carbs are cleaned and in the right places.
wildtalk
09-21-2010, 11:27 PM
Yes its a smoker at idle.  thanks for the info
wildtalk
09-23-2010, 12:54 PM
After comments and some more research .. I came some research that states synthetic oil would help and burn better. Any Commenst on whats the best oil for use with my johnson 150 fast strike  1987 ?  Also read thet spark plug gap set to 25 or 27,, is betther then recomended setting of 30 ?  Looking forward to more comments.  Im almost considering just mixing gas myslef if I cant find a solution .  Last it was serviced was less then a moth ago   VRO was click every 6 - 7 seconds.  Is there a way to set the VRO ? or is it preset and un-adjustable ?
THEFERMANATOR
09-23-2010, 09:08 PM
The VRO is not adjusteable on these engines. I reccomend the PENNSOIL synthetic blend for any of the old school carbed 2 strokes. Its priced right, available in many places, and burns relatively clean. As for how much oil it is injecting, have you checked how much oil to how much fuel you are using? If the VRO is working, it shouldn't smoke much at all at idle. Sounds like you have an air leak in the fuel line going to the engine from your description of the smoking. Remember that ifyou are running it hard, it should use roughly one gallon of oil to 50 gallons of fuel. And if you are running it at idle to slow trolling it should be closer to one gallon of oil to 90-100 gallons of gas.
wildtalk
09-24-2010, 01:50 PM
Thanks for the info Thefermanator . I did a complete check of the gas lines yesterday .. and MAY have found a slight leak. To be safe I replaced that area of line. I was also told I could switch to a L78V { chanpion } spark plug . Its the kind that just has a dot in the middle no gap setting on this type. Anyone ever use this type plug ?
THEFERMANATOR
09-24-2010, 01:56 PM
Thanks for the info Thefermanator . I did a complete check of the gas lines yesterday .. and MAY have found a slight leak. To be safe I replaced that area of line. I was also told I could switch to a L78V { chanpion } spark plug . Its the kind that just has a dot in the middle no gap setting on this type. Anyone ever use this type plug ?
Stay with the QL77JC4 plugs, TRUST ME. The QL78V plugs use a longer reach electrode for prolonged high RPM useage and will foul even easier at idle.
KEEPINGITREEL
09-24-2010, 07:43 PM
Hey Wildtalk, F    a Champion plug. ASE certified tech(come on guys you know you should spout it)with minimal ex with O/B. F   a champion! Everytime I put one in, not so much. Still have to kneel to the pros! I may know stuff elsewhere, but this is where to find the right info.
THEFERMANATOR
09-24-2010, 08:27 PM
Hey Wildtalk, F    a Champion plug. ASE certified tech(come on guys you know you should spout it)with minimal ex with O/B. F   a champion! Everytime I put one in, not so much. Still have to kneel to the pros! I may know stuff elsewhere, but this is where to find the right info.
Are you trying to say CHAMPIONS are crap or something? If so you obviuously have never dealt with OMC outboards as they are the only plug that will run in one. Yes, I used to be ASE certified but let em expire as working for myself I have no need for them with my clientel. I have experience working on just about everything out there from cars to boats and classic cars. And most of the ASE guys I worked with I wouldn't trust to fix a go-cart.
KEEPINGITREEL
09-25-2010, 09:26 AM
Sorry just a little rant there. Ferm, I see why you got away from the car biz. I too work with jackknobs that can't even replace a spark plug, let alone know anything about engine performance. 
So no regular NGKs either?
THEFERMANATOR
09-25-2010, 08:39 PM
Sorry just a little rant there. Ferm, I see why you got away from the car biz. I too work with jackknobs that can't even replace a spark plug, let alone know anything about engine performance. 
So no regular NGKs either?
In a EVINRUDE or JOHNSON with carbs run only the CHAMPION plugs. The QL77JC4 work for almost all of there engines, and are the best all round plug. NGK's are known to make an OMC run like CRAP! Even some of the older MERCS run better on the CHAMPIONS than NGK's. But on the other hand, I've put CHAMPIONS in YAMAHAS and SUZUKIS and had them give off horrible radio interference.
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