New member, new V20 owner

[Cali-V]

Hey guys I thought I would join the forums and say hi since I just bought an '82 V20. It is a bit of a basket-case but overall a good boat.

The good: I cannot find any rot or blisters, nice gel-coat below the rub rail, V20's seem to be a little harder to come by here in southern California so finding this one for a mere $400 w/trailer was awesome!

The bad: ugly paint above rail, missing cuddy door (The slider still there in good shape though) rod boxes both cracked and one not even mounted (seems typical?) and a few other things one would expect of a nearly 30 year old boat.

The ugly: Yes, why the boat was so cheap! Number 1 piston is pretty much melted and now rusted to the cylinder wall. The previous owner said it over heated in his driveway while flushing it out. He thinks the water pump caused it and it does make a horrible "nails on a chalkboard" screech when turned. However I am worried it could have been an impeller/outdrive issue.

Which brings me to my question, rebuild, repower, outboard on bracket? the motor is a 350 mated to an OMC 800. I have no experience with the OMC but have not heard great things plus parts are expensive compared to Mercs. I should mention I have experience with mechanical/structure/fiberglass work so I am not too worried about the work involved. So what would you guys do? I am leaning in the outboard conversion direction but a rebiult motor and going through the outdrive might be the least expensive. The boat will mostly be used for bay and inshore fishing here in San Diego.

Thanks!

[usmma2013]

It'll be hard to find parts for that motor/outdrive combo I think.
Since you have experience with this I'd go with a bracket and a nice 150-200hp outboard, it will be more expensive upfront but easier and cheaper to maintain and winterize. And you'll gain deck space.

[phatdaddy]

welcome west coast, sounds like you got a deal. mine is an 83, so i'm kinda partial to that vintage. i'm sure more mechanical minds will chime in, but i'd look at the bracket w/ outboard configuration. i never have liked running hot salt water through a car engine.

[Destroyer]

welcome west coast, sounds like you got a deal. mine is an 83, so i'm kinda partial to that vintage. i'm sure more mechanical minds will chime in, but i'd look at the bracket w/ outboard configuration. i never have liked running hot salt water through a car engine.

Hi Cali-V... Welcome to the site. :clap:

I'm with pretty much everyone else on this. Seal the transom. Mount a bracket and put a 150-200 hp outboard on it. You'll be a tad a** heavy, but trim tabs will take care of that. In the short run it will cost more.. In the long run it will save you money.

The only way I'd recommend a rebuild is if you found a complete yank out/drop-in engine in good shape for a really good price. :head:

[spareparts]

throw the 800 drive away, don't waste a dime on it. OMC couldn't make them work for any amount of time, I've rebuilt them, but never gave a warranty. glass up the transom, find a bracket, bolt a 150 on the back and go boating. the OMC stringer drive is proof positive that they don't drug test engineers

[willy]

Do as suggested here, unless a good I/o set up is located on the cheap or you are very comfortable with the work and maintanence.
If you go with a bracket two suggestions, one do not go over a 150 with the bracket, and preferably a two stroke like a ETEC, keeping weight as your prime consideration.
Two, make sure you go with a bracket with positive flotation, it is very important.

[Fishwhisperer 180]

I was stationed in San Diego, Point Loma for three years punching wholes in the sea. My civilian boat at the time was a 18 Hobie.
As far as your new asset, Shop the choices. Make a Repair Order and cost out time, parts and materials of each option. Then weight the benefits of cost with your ideal set-up.
With gas prices as they are a lot of people are unloading their boats. Boats that have problems are the first to go ( like yours for example). What I'm leading to is the fact that I have never seen the pick-in's this good. There is New old stock, used parts, New new stock, etc... You might come across a deal that you can't pass up.You have to get online and get just as good at finding the the parts (at the right price) as you are at putting them together.
The crew here does a great job in posting info on anything you might need. Between landing her for $400 then joining this forum your well on your way.
If you should decide to stay with an I/O consider a fresh water cooling system if not currently outfitted with one.
Please post pics of the project so we can pick up some tips. Congratulations and good luck.

[Cali-V]

Yep, pretty much the answers I was wanting to hear! Just needed some back up. I guess if I had the money, I would opt for a bracket with the large platform (would be great for swimming and spearfishing) and a shiny new four stroke. Since that is out of budget a compromise might be a float bracket without the platform and a used two stroke. I have seen the little box style one that Stainless Marine makes for a good price. I started shopping around for used outboards after I got home and will make some calls tomorrow for prices/options. Lots of boat snobs in this area who think nothing of re-powering at a cost more than I make in a year! There are definitely deals to be had.

Anyone have any idea about the door? I could probably make something but could use a close up picture of the door and top connection. I'll start cruising the gallery now.

Thanks again guys! Got to love a website dedicated to one make/model of boat.:clap:

[Genie Aye]

Cali-V

Welcome aboard!!

I bought a V-20 2 years ago (before the boat market crashed), tough to find these on the west coast,:hi: and am still working on it--I rewired everything--replaced the motor--twice (Ouch)--and had a new top built--added Lenco trim tabs and am very happy with the boat--still working on a radar arch and a live well for tuna.
I have run 65 miles off the coast multiple times and I am very confident in her abilities. Put good electronics on her and away you go. These are a sweet boat--but need's the trim tabs in my opinion.

I would replace the I/O with a bracket and outboard--2 stroke--4 strokes are aweful heavy. The newer two strokes pass emmisions for Ca. and are great on fuel burn. Search and you will find what you want for what you want to pay. Good luck--
post pictures before and after!!

Genie Aye

[reelapeelin]

Cali-V...welcome to the site!!...a two-stroke 150 will be ideal on a bracket...one thing that's come up here about bracket installs...make sure you go w/a 25" long shaft motor and not a 20" short-shaft as the shorter motor will have a tendency to bury itself in the wake when coming off plane...

Rather than a new door, have you considered having a canvas snap-on cover made for the cuddy entrance?

Pictures of the conversion if ya can...we love good boat-porn around here... :clap:

[spareparts]

look thru the gallery and see teh different doors that wellcraft offered. My louvered door fellapart, too many pieces to put back together. I got a door off of a later model that had plexi panels with a teak frame. If you are handy with wood, you can make your own paneled door. AS far as the repower, when looking for a bracket, keep your eye out for discarded fiberglass platforms. I've seen boats where the bracket used is juct teh simple box type, but they install it below a fiberglass platform, kinda hides teh bracket, makes it look more finished. The best used motor(power to weight) for your boat is going to be a two stroke Mercury(150-200). If you can afford newer, try an E-Tec. Soem of teh Johnrude have favorable power to weight ratios(i Can't remebr which ones), Ferm will be along shortly to remind us of which OMC's to use. One thing to remember if you decide to go bracket, the entire transom will most likely need to be reiforced. OMC mounted the 800 series motor/drive to the stringers, not to the transom(Thats why they call them stringer drives), generally the transom of a stringer drive doesn't need the full thickness of a Mercruiser or an OB installation. You probably don't have as much of a transom as the rest of the V's

[Cali-V]

Here is some dirty boat-porn for you!:haha:

I have most of the day free today so I will at least start the clean up and start making "the list"

I have heard of putting a head in the cabin but I think this is the wrong type.
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8796/rszdsc00788.jpg

Misc. engine parts/junk on the deck
http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/858/rszdsc00789.jpg

EEEEWWW!
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/8371/rszdsc00790.jpg

Just need to squint my eyes and imagine the potential.
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5382/rszdsc00791.jpg

[breastman569]

i just posted some pics of my 79 out here in AZ so maybe you could get some ideas for you cuddy door, http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?p=157413#post157413. we just moved backed to az from point loma where my wife was a dolphin trainer at sea world we miss it so much and loved every second of it, so now that im back i decided to get the boat ready for lake season.

[phatdaddy]

hey cali,lotta potential there and at least you got chrome fenders.....

[Cali-V]

Yes I saw the pictures of yours, super clean. You could photoshop in some fuzz and yellow it out and I would believe the photos were taken in '79.

Nice to see a few people familiar with the area here. I actually grew up in Pacific Beach not too far away and know Point Loma well. Lots of great fishing around, well within range for a V20. I saw a boat (can't remember who's) in the gallery with a nice 100-120qt cooler with a cushion on it behind the captains chair. I really like the idea and want to do it to mine because those wimpy little fish boxes in the floor will not hold even one Yellowtail!

So back to the boat. I cleaned it up today found a few more minor things to fix but still feeling good about it. Also found it has the entire kicker bracket ready for a small O/B! Found the bow light wires resting on some carpet with wire nut connectors. Didn't need to see any more and put complete re-wire on the list. I am going to start tearing out the foam and try to get the tank out tomorrow. The P/O said when he used it it would gunk up the carb so he mounted a tank on the deck! Hopefully it just needs a good cleaning but I expect a new tank could be a possibility.

Set on the outboard conversion. I guess first thing would be to pull the outdrive and engine. The outdrive actually looks in good shape and since parts are scarce for these it has to be worth something to someone right? Question is how much? I looked and looked on the internet but only found very few for sale from $500 to $1400 for just the lower unit. I am hoping I can get enough to offset some of the bracket cost. Problem is I do not know if this is a good unit and can't sell it as such? How much should I ask?

And yes, the chrome fenders alone sold me on it!:you:

[macojoe]

Welcome to the site!! I converted my V20 in 1998 and it was the best thing I ever did! Car motors were never ment to be ib the ocean IMO.
I had a 175 Yamaha on it and it was great! But I just got rid of a 2.4 175 Merc off my Sea Ox and it was amazing how much power and great gas mileage it had!
The motor is not dead, it is going to be used by Bigshrimpin on his 23 Seacraft.

As for brackets I used a full swim platform one as I got it for $400. Check all the marinas in your area and Crigslist for a take off, they can be had for like $500 or cheaper. Also Stainless Marina sells just the platforms (I call them wings) to bolt on your box bracket making it a platform.

Well Good Luck and ask all you want!

[Destroyer]

hey cali,lotta potential there and at least you got chrome fenders.....

And whitewalls too .....:clap:

(oh, and the boat looks nice also) :hi:

[reelapeelin]

Your pics remind me of 1st sight of my 21 recently...yep, there's lotta potential there w/lots of "adventure" to reach it!!...LOL!!...mines coming along nicely and I know yours will as well...be thinkin bout an in-deck hatch or something useful to do w/the space you'll have back there after you yank the I/B...3/4" starboard will make a nice floor over it...

[randlemanboater]

Welcome to the site and congrats on the "new" boat.

If you run into Tuna Head out there, tell him to check in.

[Destroyer]

Hey Cali.. I know this goes against what I said earlier, but if you want an I/O setup and just want to replace the engine for now you might want to give these guys a call and see what they have...

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/boa/1725444154.html

I know nothing about them except the price looks good.

Red skys at night :beer:

[Cali-V]

A little up-date with some good and some bad.

I pulled the fuel tank, not fun but not as bad as I thought it would be. The worst part was the tank had about 30 gal. of a funky gas and water mix that I had to pump out. The tank is in good shape. Just a cleaning and a new sender and it is good to go. I do not want to re-install it with foam, I was thinking about maybe 4 laminated 3/4" Ply peices running from stringer to stringer and lam'ed to the bottom to support the tank (Cut outs in the center to let water drain). Maybe some 5200 on the supports and 2 2x4's on top to secure it?

Now back to the transom.:cen:
I still have not taken the motor/outdrive off. I did drill a few holes to check the thickness and condition of the wood. Most of the wood is dry, even fresh pinkish-yellow, however I did drill a hole just bellow the outdrive seal and the classic "wet soil" came out. I am thinking this could be a good thing because now I am set on complete transom replacement rather than trying to strengthen the weird two piece core from the factory. I am thinking of cutting out the inner skin and old wood and leaving the outer skin. Then building up 4 layers of 1/2" ply/epoxy sandwich, one at a time (to follow the curve) then glassing the inner and tying back into the stringers and patch holes on the outer. A lot of work I know but this would give a nice solid transom to hang the bracket and O/B off of.

Any thoughts?

[Cali-V]

Update time.

Nothing too exciting again but I have been getting dirty. After removing the motor and outdrive (and 20 lbs of kitty litter to pull up all the oil I spilled into the bilge while removing the motor :cen:) I started on the transom. I cut away the stringers and the motor mount stringers (P.I.T.A.) then cut through the inner fiberglass and pulled it away. This left the wood mostly intact. Pulling the wood away from the outer glass was difficult until I happen upon a google link of some one doing something similar. I slightly modified the technique and was very happy. I figured I would share in case anyone else is looking for help on pulling wood away from the outside fiberglass skin with out damaging the hull. This is especially helpful if, like mine, most of the transom wood is still solid (I only had a few small patches of rot). I had all ready removed the bulk of the wood and even sanded away a lot of it when I thought to record the process. Here is the removal of the center section.

I cleared away as much of the inner skin as possible by running a 4" angle grinder with a masonry cut off wheel around the perimeter of the wood. I then threaded a large eye bolt into the wood just until it hit the outer skin. I then attached a 2" ratchet strap from the eye bolt to the bow support in the cabin.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7161/rszdsc00864.jpg

I then slowly put tension on the strap. The point here is not to use the strap to pull the wood away but just give a consistent pull while a hammer and wedges do the actual separating. As I was able to drive the wedge further down I would tighten the strap to keep tension.

http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/9652/rszdsc00866.jpg

After getting about 2/3 to 3/4 of the wood separated, the strap can then be used to free up the last bit. I should mention this is much easier on good wood because the eye bolt will pull right out of the rotten stuff. Once this comes off all it needs is some time with the sander to finish the job. I have been using 24 grit disks. Actually pretty easy to do but it is still a miserable job with lots of splinters and cuts.

I should have everything prep'd out to start laying in the new wood and glass by then end of the day tomorrow. Hopefully a new transom by the weekend. The on to item # 3 of 340523980495230 to fix before she is launched.

[Destroyer]

Now THAT is a great idea... using a strap like that. Thanks for the tip. I'm sure that there are people here that can/will benefit from it. :clap: