Steering shot -aftermkt replacement

[sven]

launched today and my steering went. You needed allot of force to turn the wheel last season so I new it was going. Needed to hard turn when docking today and it finaly went (i put alot of force to turn and you could feel it strip -so the steering wheel now turns and the OB doesnt move). Can i replace with one of those steering replacement kits (around $180)? And how easy is the job? My boat is a 1986 V20 w/150 1986 proV Yamaha.

[reelapeelin]

launched today and my steering went. You needed allot of force to turn the wheel last season so I new it was going. Needed to hard turn when docking today and it finaly went (i put alot of force to turn and you could feel it strip -so the steering wheel now turns and the OB doesnt move). Can i replace with one of those steering replacement kits (around $180)? And how easy is the job? My boat is a 1986 V20 w/150 1986 proV Yamaha.

Unless yer up to droppin a grand on hydraulic steering, I'd tell ya to go with the 4.2 No Feed Back from Teleflex...I did one several years back and it's been GREAT!!...not hard to install...you'll probably have to pull your rod-boxes, but I don't recall it being difficult...I was just looking at them in a catalog today...$269.99 and worth every penny...highly recommend you DON'T get one that steers RIGHT everytime you let go of the wheel...dangerous...

[sven]

THANKS! I'm gonna take your advice and go that route.

[sven]

Reelapeelin one more question,

do you think I can just go with the 4.2 teleflex single Helm unit (no cables, just the unit at the helm wheel) or would i need the package with the 18' cable as well? Its $100 more for the cable package and right now I'm into the boat enough cash already thos year so I'm trying to fix without doing more than neccesary.

Thanks

[THEFERMANATOR]

Do the whole thing if you're doing it. Also make sure your steering isn't dragging in the tilt tube at the engine as that is the most common place they start to bind up.

[macojoe]

yep don't cheap out go with all new! and on some V20's you have to un blot the motor to get the cable out, but other wise easy fix.

Good Luck!

[reelapeelin]

Reelapeelin one more question,

do you think I can just go with the 4.2 teleflex single Helm unit (no cables, just the unit at the helm wheel) or would i need the package with the 18' cable as well? Its $100 more for the cable package and right now I'm into the boat enough cash already thos year so I'm trying to fix without doing more than neccesary.

Thanks

I agree w/MJ & Ferm...get the whole package...steering ain't the place to go cheap...

Overton's has it for less $$...

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=22786&pdesc=Teleflex_Rotary_Rack_Pinion_Steering_System_ S147&str=steering+systems&merchID=4005

You want the ROTARY set-up and I think I'm seeing here that shipping is $5.00...?...anyway, this is a great system for V-20s...

[sven]

Having some trouble getting the old cable out from the engine. i loosened the port side nut and i'm assuming i now have to loosen the starboard (larger size) nut. Is this correct? Does it then slip out? Boat is a 1986, I'm hoping removing the motor is not required. one more question: what size cable for the v20s? I looked all over the cable and helm and cannot find the size....I was assuming 17' or 18'

Thanks....if i didnt have this website, I wouldnt be boating this season!

[inaforty]

Just did the unit on our boat. Check Defenders in CT. They have the 4.2 with the 17' cable for $199.

We had to remove the motor to get the cable out of the tube.

Not to bad of a job if you have a cherry picker or a tree limb that you could use.

[reelapeelin]

Having some trouble getting the old cable out from the engine. i loosened the port side nut and i'm assuming i now have to loosen the starboard (larger size) nut. Is this correct? Does it then slip out? Boat is a 1986, I'm hoping removing the motor is not required. one more question: what size cable for the v20s? I looked all over the cable and helm and cannot find the size....I was assuming 17' or 18'

Thanks....if i didnt have this website, I wouldnt be boating this season!

I didn't have to remove motor on my 74...hopefully someone will chime in here and say for sure on yours...

The Overton's page I posted a link to above has all you need to know about determining size needed for your boat..take a look and be sure before you order...

Take some pics of what yer doin if you can and post 'em up for us...

Well looks like inaforty answered your question about removing the motor...get a length of healthy chain and go over a limb or beam or something substantial...using the tongue jack on your trailer, let it all the way down...hook up the chain w/no slack in it and raise the tongue which will lower the transom, which will leave your motor hanging on the chain...that or rent or borrow a cherry-picker...

[RWilson2526]

yea Svence take some pics....my steering seems pretty stiff too and I can see a replacement in my future. And I have the same boat and motor so you're gonna be my go to guy some time.

[csvencer]

I just did mine less than a year ago. Had to pull the motor to get the steering rod out of the tilt tube, it was like an inch short and the angle wouldn't let it happen.

Not sure if you bought your parts yet but I found keenzo.com (random webpage, but legit) to have the cheapest cable and helm when I was shopping.

-Svence

[phatdaddy]

mine is an 83 and i did not have to remove engine. the only nut you have to remove is the one on the cable, big long and silver & the nut on the bottom of the drag link that goes through the end of the cable.

[willy]

I may be in the same boat this season, did you guys find a 17 or 18 foot cable was the ticket?
Mine is a 92

[inaforty]

The factory cable is a 16'. The smallest cable Defenders carried was 17' so that is what I used. I had to put a small dip in the cable under the gunnel were the cable hangs from some PVC that is fiberglassed under the gunnel to take up a bit of the extra length.

Here is a shot under the gunnel.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d41/inaforty/V%2020%20Wellcraft/0220101409a.jpg

The motor hanging from the cherry picker.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d41/inaforty/V%2020%20Wellcraft/0220101114a.jpg

From the other side.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d41/inaforty/V%2020%20Wellcraft/0220101333c.jpg

I was happy to see no water intrusion.
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d41/inaforty/V%2020%20Wellcraft/0220101333a.jpg

[sven]

Just spoke to my marina (Irwins Red Bank, NJ) mechanic today and he's quoting me 3-4 hours labor (at 120 per hour). So I'm looking at almost a grand to fix when you throw in $200-250 for the part and the $200 fee they charge to pull the boat. I dont have a trailer so im kinda screwed. Thats why i was hoping i didnt have to pull the motor. If i didnt have to pull the damn motor I'd do the job myself. If i have my boat hauler pull it for me and block it that alone is pretty big expense in itself, so I might as well just let the marina mech do the job. This boat costing me too much! I'm still dealing with an overheat alarm so once i get the steering done who knows what.... [just did the water pump - pees fine so i think it may just be the stats which looked like crap - though they did open at 135 degrees on the stove when i tested which concerns me that it may be some other problem]. I wish I could afford a new boat and have a few years problem free! maybe one day.

[sven]

If I do it myself I will post some pics....i owe this site alot so I will give a little back....it may not be pretty and my mug is one ugly mug so bare with it....

[Destroyer]

Just spoke to my marina (Irwins Red Bank, NJ) mechanic today and he's quoting me 3-4 hours labor (at 120 per hour). So I'm looking at almost a grand to fix when you throw in $200-250 for the part and the $200 fee they charge to pull the boat. I dont have a trailer so im kinda screwed. Thats why i was hoping i didnt have to pull the motor. If i didnt have to pull the damn motor I'd do the job myself. If i have my boat hauler pull it for me and block it that alone is pretty big expense in itself, so I might as well just let the marina mech do the job. This boat costing me too much! I'm still dealing with an overheat alarm so once i get the steering done who knows what.... [just did the water pump - pees fine so i think it may just be the stats which looked like crap - though they did open at 135 degrees on the stove when i tested which concerns me that it may be some other problem]. I wish I could afford a new boat and have a few years problem free! maybe one day.

Ugh... That's rape in the first degree. (IMHO) For that kind of money it might pay you to look in Craigslist for a trailer and do the job yourself. $700 is a lot of money to spend for no tangable return. ($120 x 4 = $480 + $200 = $680 x 7% tax = $727.60) That's pure LABOR and you still have to pay for the part(s)

At least if you buy a trailer you have:

1) A trailer
2) No slip fees (in your locale at least $1200 annually)
3) Easy access to doing any work on the boat that
you want to do.
4) The ability to go to lakes, rivers and shores that are
out of your reach right now.

I used to have a slip at Leonardo State marina and a much bigger boat, but the State kept increasing slip fees and truthfully, as I became an empty nester the larger boat was more trouble than it was worth. So I downsized to a V20 and left the slip and the expense to others. To my way of thinking, trailering is the only way to go. It's easy, cheap compared to slips, and gives me freedom to go where I want.

This is, of course, assuming that you have a house where you can keep the boat, a vehicle that can tow it, and the skill to do your own repairs. If you don't then forget everything I just said and pardon an old salt for spoutting off. :zip:

Oh.. and I used to have that same kind of overheat problem with my 200 Merc...turned out to be one of the overheat sensors on the motor. Might want to check them out before you spend any more money :news:

[reelapeelin]

Sven...don't go down on the first quote you get...look around and find an individual who's capable, has a trailer and will do the job w/out stressing your wallet...there are guys out there who'll do a good job for you and not wipe out the life savings...

[macojoe]

For a Grand I would cut the shaft and remove the steering, buy new Hydraulic steering and install myself! No need to remove the motor or boat from water that way

[willy]

The Wind Talker makes a good point, for that much money you can install a power set up yourself.
Sometimes MJ you are pretty sharp, inspite of what Bob and Tim say about you.

[bigshrimpin]

This hynautic k6 rams bolt to the front of your motor (and don't use the tilt tube at all). They work with seastar lines/helm and you can easily put a set together for that price. If you don't want pull the boat out of the water . . . just use a sawsall and cut the old steering out in pieces and buy one of these setups.

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/gallery/albums/album54/DSCN0210_Medium.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hynautic-Hydraulic-K6-Outboard-Steering-Ram-Cylinder-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d27ac44bbQQitemZ40009 7559739QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

[sven]

I just may do that (cut old off and install hydaulic system) if i can get a new system for not too much cash. Thanks for that advice!

[reelapeelin]

I just may do that (cut old off and install hydaulic system) if i can get a new system for not too much cash. Thanks for that advice!

I was just goin thru the trim-tab thread and remembered these guys...

http://www.rivermarinesupply.com/xcart/catalog/product_10779_Teleflex_Seastar_HK6400_Hydraulic_St eering_Kit.html

This is the best price I've ever seen on Seastar...beats West by $270.00 :clap:

[Thirdcoast]

You also might want to look at:

www.boatbandit.com (http://www.boatbandit.com) they have the Seastar w/ 16' hoses for $859.00 part no. HK6316 or the 18' kit for $20 more...

&

www.boaterstore.com (http://www.boaterstore.com)

I just checked Rivermarine & the same kit is $903.56 including shipping..

They are all pretty close..

I have bought from both & both are very good... used boaters store aka Southern Charm for all my Hynautic parts when rebuilding a system.. also carries the complete Teleflex line...

The Seastar Hydraulic system is around $800 from these guys... When the steering goes on the V21 I just bought, I am going back with the Seastar system... then it won't rust up...

Good Luck,

Thirdcoast

[Chomper]

Sven, I was reading your thread and got thinking about how I every time I let the wheel go I end up in a turn. So I thought I would give the NFB system a try. It took me about 3hrs by myself. I imagine it would have been a whole lot quicker with someone to help, but anyway I snapped a few pics for ya.

The old steering

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr14/kvmay/Outboard/P1150133.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr14/kvmay/Outboard/P1150132.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr14/kvmay/Outboard/P1150135.jpg

The New

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr14/kvmay/Outboard/P1150139.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr14/kvmay/Outboard/P1150140.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr14/kvmay/Outboard/P1150142.jpg

http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr14/kvmay/Outboard/P1150141.jpg

Now I just need a new steering wheel and I will be set. I am looking for a nice used one but haven't found one yet.

[scook]

Yeah, post lots of pictures - I'm going to need to do this at some point. Got a fair amount of slop in my steering.

[summercooler1]

Hi guys, I am also in the process of replacing the steering in my 1988 V-20. It looks like I have to cut a panel under the steering helm to get the old steering helm out. Would I be able to use a 8 inch inspection plate or cut out for a 8X12 hatch.

[macojoe]

Be better off removing the motor and doing it right

[phatdaddy]

not that familar with an 88, but on most cuddys , the helm will come out of the hole the glove box is in.

[inaforty]

I removed/installed our helm thru the glove box.

[Blue_Runner]

On the V21 you just climb down in the cuddy to take that puppy out. Piece o cake.

[summercooler1]

Have no glove box on this 88, so there is no acess to the steering helm. I have looked at other v-20's and I guess I will have to install a 8 inch round inspection plate or a door. The cherry picker in the garage and is waiting patiently to swing that Yamaha to remove the cable from the tilt tube which is already loose and ready to come out.Looks easy enouph. Should be in the water soon.Thanks for your help.

[sven]

I just fixed my overheat problem (missing washer, lowered water pump pressure). Now back to take the steering. Marina wants $488 to just pull the boat and unbolt motor and remove old steering rod and slap the new one in. Thats $288 laborer (2 x 144 per hr) and $10 per foot to pull it out for me. I came up with the idea of borrowing my friends engine hoist and doing it at the dock myself when hopefully nobodys looking. $500 lot a moollah for not that much work. We'll see what happens. The old rod seems to be a bit of a ***** to get out. I hammer it and it moves, but not much. Once i get a better angle of attack when I move the engine, Im sure I can bang the hell out of it and get it to slide through. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

[macojoe]

Spray with PB Blaster a few times while you wait to get ready, also a propane torch will help!! When you get it in the tube use a old 1/2 extension to drive it the rest of the way out.

[MikeV]

Hello folks,I'm new here just picked up a 77' cuddy with a nice running 150 Yamaha 2.5 Max. And found a 76' v20 fish Hull down the road for next to nothin' . thinking of fishing one while rebuilding the other and then switching the hulls ....I'm a glutton for punishment I guess Anyhow the steering.g cable in the cruddy was siezed and is the 18' teleflex I was able to get it out without lifting the outboard but will probably have to loose the motor for the install for my 77'

[Destroyer]

Hello folks,I'm new here just picked up a 77' cuddy with a nice running 150 Yamaha 2.5 Max. And found a 76' v20 fish Hull down the road for next to nothin' . thinking of fishing one while rebuilding the other and then switching the hulls ....I'm a glutton for punishment I guess Anyhow the steering.g cable in the cruddy was siezed and is the 18' teleflex I was able to get it out without lifting the outboard but will probably have to loose the motor for the install for my 77'

Hi and welcome... it's not punishment.. it's love. (same thing really) :head:

[csvencer]

Sven-

Just saw this, not sure if you are still looking but looks like a good deal.

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/1743502006.html

-Svence

[summercooler1]

how are you making out with the steering, i am just out of the atlantic highlands.

[The Bottom Line]

so i am in the process of replacing my steering too due to it being very stiff. I spoke with a few people and one of them said that if i just grease the cable down near the engine i would be good to go. Is this just a temp fix and am i better off just replacing the whole cable and if so what size cable is needed for a 1989 v20? Summercooler1 i am out of atlantic highlands too. You have a slip there?

[Destroyer]

so i am in the process of replacing my steering too due to it being very stiff. I spoke with a few people and one of them said that if i just grease the cable down near the engine i would be good to go. Is this just a temp fix and am i better off just replacing the whole cable and if so what size cable is needed for a 1989 v20? Summercooler1 i am out of atlantic highlands too. You have a slip there?

No, it's called maintenance.. all moving parts need to be maintained. Greese, oil and attention are the lifebloods of machinery. If you free up your steering by simply greesing the bottom end then that was the problem. As to your question about is it a temp fix or not, that answer lies with the attention thingie... inspect the cable outer jacket carefully for any cuts, abraisions, etc. Any place that would allow water to pass thru and into the cable itself. If there are none then chances are the steering cable is fine and your greese fix will be a permanant one. If there is a cut in the cable jacket then you'll eventually need to replace the cable assembly.. so in that case your fix is a temp one. SEAL ALL CUTS with silicone wrapped with tape after it's cured to extend the life of the cable. Red skys at night...

[The Bottom Line]

thank you for the great advice. Next time i head down to the boat i am going to grease the **** out of it and examine the cable. Thanks again for the quick response!

[captkern]

I just replaced my steering cable with the 4.2 no feedback. It was shot and I thought I could free it up, but no way. Had the no feedback on my last boat and it is excellent. Now as I found out(and others here) on my '87 there is no way to get the cable out without removing the motor. The cable solid part on the end is longer than the distance to the sides of the motorwell. I got around this by cutting a cable size u shape from the opening to the back of the transom. This way you can slide the new cable in. I will cover this with a plate from 1/4 starboard, then install a new rubber cable sleeve/boot. The cable I bought was 16' same as the factory used. But I think 17' might be a better choice. You dont even have a 1/2" to play with. For anyone doing this job, bolt cutters made the removal of the old one easy. But sliding out the old cable from the motor tube sleeve still required a hax saw to cut in half. This was before I made the cut for the cable. If you make the cut first, this too would be very easy. Teleflex recomends that you take the cable out of the sleeve every couple of years and clean out the greese. Put fresh grease and re-insert. This way it prevents build up which actually locks the cable. This is why I made the notch..what are you gonna do..remove your engine just to grease a cable? The other question was installing through the glove box. Yes it does install that way..one small issue is the 4.2 NFB is thicker, and you need to draw the cable inside then slide two bolts in to hold the collar. This can not be accomplished if the helm is installed first. There is no room for the bolts to slide in. Solution is to attach cable first..temporarily use the wheel to draw it in. Bolt the collar up...then push the helm up into place. A second set of hands would help..of course it was just me and 100 degrees...so it was tough. The 4.2 NFB system cost me $179.00 Shorts Marine in Del. It took about three hours to do..mainly brainstorming to get the cable out of the tube. Also too hot of a day. By the way the 4.2 is pretty much a direct replacement..the holes lined right up. Anyone with a tight steering should not be afraid to tackle this job. If you have not tried NFB steering..you will be amazed. It comes very close to Hydraulic. You can turn the wheel with one finger. Anyone has any questions...I'll see If I can help.