Engine Trouble

[csvencer]

2000 Johnson 150 Ocean Pro, Carbed, with oil tank still being used....long read but any insight would be helpful.

Was heading out today when I got a No Oil alarm (interesting because the low oil never went off and it was working a month ago). Immediately throtte down and turn off the engine, open the oil tank and sure enough it is empty with only a little still in the ball. Fill the tank with oil, pump the ball hard and fire her up. No alarms. Idle along for a bit to make sure all is well and then throttle up. 15 secs later I got a No Oil alarm again. Check the ball, squeeze it a few times and fire it back up. No alarms and we are off again. AGAIN a no oil alarm, this time I just key off and on and the alarm is gone. Think there may be some air in the line that is setting off the alarm. Get going one last time and all is well. Run another 3 miles and all of a sudden loss of power and stalls out, No alarms. Fires right back up and fine again. So we anchor and fish.

2-3 hours later I fire it up and head for home. Half way home I get a loss of power again and it stalls. Fire it back up and idle for a bit then off we go again. This time I get a weird plastic knockind/whing sound as if something is whacking the inside of the cowling. Off goes the cowling and now I just have a knock noise and rough idle. Powering up works and then a loss of power. Decide to shut it down and call sea tow for fear of doing more damage.....

I am thinking that I might have fried a ring or a cylinder wall with the no oil issue and now it is acting up???...??? Going to do a compression test tomorrow, right after I buy a compression tester :head:. Anyone have any other idea what it might be. I am guessing the oil has atleast something to do with the problem but you never know.

Also anyone have a good johnon mechanic in the Hampton Roads VA area???


-Svence

[THEFERMANATOR]

Sounds like you air locked the system. The VRO system has to be purged and run on 50:1 if there is ANY question about air being in the system. You'll probably want to pull the heads off as well, but it sounds like you got a rod or wrist pin bearing from lack of oil. There is a SLIGHT chance that you have air trapped in the VRO pump, but unlikely.

[Skools Out]

sounds like time to look for a motor. i would guess you hurt the rings, pistons and bearings in the motor. a compression test will tell but i would say you lost the motor due to oil injection, that's another reason not to run it. if it's in the gas and pre mixed you know as long as you have gas you have oil.

[csvencer]

How do I purge the oil line/pump? I am really hoping it is a bad ring or something but its not sounding too good right now...

-Svence

[bcurling]

Sorry to hear about you troubles. Try Ron's Marine (Johnson/Evinrude). I get all my work done there.

Quickest way there:

Out of Suffolk 58 to 264
Exit Victory Blvd, turn left
At third light, Airline Blvd turn right
Continue on Airline until you get to Mosberth Resturant right hand side of street.
Turn right on Rodman Ave.
Go through the second or third stop light. (If it's green) :-)
He is on the right hand side of the street, blue building


Ron's Marine & Equipment Inc
2406 Rodman Ave, Portsmouth, VA
(757) 397-3451

[csvencer]

Thanks for the suggestion, thats who I was going to call, looks like a good shop.

Well I just finished the compression test....not so good. Looking from the stern to the bow all the left cylinders were at 100-105, on the right the top two were 100-105 and the bottom right was 0. Was getting absolutely no compression or resistance with the plug in. The motor turned as if all the plugs were out when I still had that bottom right cylinder hooked up. I then checked to see if I was even getting the piston to compress, and it is so it looks like the rings are shot or the cylinder is fried. Anything else I should check before dropping her off at the shop? Can I resleeve the cylinder or is that asking for more trouble down the line?

-Svence

[Skools Out]

it may be lucky enough to be honed out and use a new piston, rings and bearings on that hole. but at a marina they won't usually fix one hole usually they want to do a $2500 to $3000 rebuild. Um i would remove the oil injection now.

[Enforcer]

I am sorry for your loss!! I have been there and done that!

And i have never used a oil injection system again, and never will.

Good luck

[csvencer]

The thing that pisses me off is that the oil injection didn't fail...it was me. I knew it needed oil but just figured I would wait for the damn low oil light to come on. What's it gonna set me back to rebuild that one cylinder? Going to call Ron in Portsmouth today or tomorrow and see what he says.

-Svence

[Skools Out]

in a shop my guess is least $950 and most likely will cost $2500 to $3000. The OMC owners manuals all say to check the oil before you leave the dock and everytime you fill with gas.

[csvencer]

Off to the shop. Cylinder wall is scored to hell. Pics...

http://picasaweb.google.com/csvencer/JohnsonCylinder#

-Svence

[evilgli]

OUCH! i recommend Newport Marine for a shop. keep us informed. that sucks and i'm sorry dude.

[macojoe]

I use to fill oil after each trip, why would you wait for the light??

that doesn't look to bad, but it will need honing, piston,rings, berrin. they also may be able to resleve it?? Nothing will be cheap, and might be able to find good used motor for less.
look for same year omc and you keep this one and have all the parts you will ever need

[spareparts]

yur repair cost and the decision to repair that engine will be based on the condition of the crank, if the crank is bad, its not going to be cost effective to repair that engine

[Skools Out]

easy repair that isn't bad at all. i've fix several that were much worst with honing and new piston and rings. New piston and rings set avail for your motor from Tri State Marine for $89.75

[garagenc]

You might try Airodine it's located at the airfield at Bowers Hill. They do machine work (and on marine products) They won't care if you fix 1 or all cylinders. BUT you want to check (visually and mic) all cylinders and look closely at the pistons/rings/wristpins/crank to make sure you don't have other problems due to low oil. You probably already know but I just had to mention it.

[nymack66]

I am sadden to see your engine got destroyed this way, Once again my thanks to guys on this site who convinced me NOT to connect my VRO and I was having doubts, I now know mine is never getting connected !
Once again sorry.

[THEFERMANATOR]

My question would be is why did it have zero compression? It looks rough, but not bad enough to be zero. I would have expected at least 20 or so from it, zero normally means a hole or MAJOR piston damage. I'm not sure on the EAGLE engines if you can pull a piston out without teardown, but if you could I would start off by pulling just the one piston and looking at the crank journal. The other BIG question is what other damage is there or waiting to happen? Not trying to be the bearer of bad news, just don't want to see you dump a $1K into fixing just one hole and then have it let loose on you on your first trip. At the MINUMUM you need to do a COMPLETE teardown and inspect ALL of your bearings for damage or small chips. I would expect you spend $2500 at a MINUMUM for a teardown and basic rebuild at a dealer on that engine. Most shops down here by me would rather sell you a new one than to build your old one. I know a trusted EVINRUDE dealer down here and won't give an estimate for less than $3500 on ANY V-6 to do a rebuild because you never know what you will run into once your in it.

[Monkey Butler]

Sorry for your misfortune. The guys here who know what they are talking about are a great resource and hopefully you can get out of this for the least amount of dollars or without throwing good money after bad.

When I am running my outboard I always feel like a race driver leading on the last lap. I hear every little change in sound and I hear things that nobody else does. I guess the only cure for that would be called a warrantee but with the price of new OB's that's kind of out of my reach.

I am no expert but I gotta ask the same thing as Ferm, why zero compression. My kids had a 2-stroke motorcycle that they had to use WD-40 and a running push start to get going but it still ran and had some compression but when I took the head of it looked 100 times worse than the bore on yours.

[csvencer]

I was shocked by the 0 compression as well, hence the reason I did it a couple times to make sure it didn't just stop working. At this time I am looking at getting a rebuilt powerhead, short block, for about $1900. I got one quote for just that cylinder at $1800 which made me start looking at a new block or rebuilding this one completely. A completly dressed powerhead will run me about $3200 so I think the short block may be the way to go. My only concern with that is how do I know the VRO pump isn't still messed up for that cylinder? I know it works as if it had completely died I would have had more than one cylinder get fried, but how do I ensure this won't happen again with a new block...??? I am also looking at a entirely new motor (new to me) as I have found late 90's-early 00's 150/175's for about $3500-$4500. I could then part out the johnson to recoup some of the cost. Any ideas on what I could get if I pieced it out? Thinking anywhere from $1000 to $1500 as everything from the lower unit up is good except the damn cylinder. Thoughts???

-Svence

[csvencer]

SIDEBAR-

The Towboat US guy was driving an 80's 250 sportsman and I fell in love. So maybe a whole new rig is in the works.... ;)

-Svence

[THEFERMANATOR]

I would look around a bit. You can find REALLY late model 2 stroke carb motors for under $4K in the 200/225 range. The 150/175 EAGLE motors are known as OMC's BEST engine ever, so that is a BIG reason for them holding there value so well. The only way to know for certain that you are getting oil is to ditch the VRO and pre-mix.

[csvencer]

Ferm-

EAGLE? What years are they?

-Svence

[THEFERMANATOR]

Ferm-

EAGLE? What years are they?

-Svence

The EAGLE series is what they called the 60 degree loopers. They came out in 90/91 in OMC in the 150/175, and in 95 in the V-4's. The eagle series is what you have now.

[csvencer]

What's your thoughts on a Yamaha instead? This one is with controls, tank, gauges, and prop.

http://www.boattrader.com/listing/1996-1996-Yamaha-200-carb-93627972

Or there is another 2000 Johnson 150 for about the same on there.

-Svence

[macojoe]

i love yammies, but if i was you i go for the other 2000 omc if its a good deal.
this way you have all the parts you will ever need. and easy repower as all controlls and stuff already there.

[Skools Out]

here's what ya need

http://wilmington.craigslist.org/boa/976388019.html

1997 Evinrude Ocean Pro with less than 200 hours. Excellent condition with no rust. Compression even on all cylinders. Engine is 25 inch shaft with standard rotation. Recent lower unit oil change and New Tilt and Trim Motor.

Extremely clean and sound engine. You will not find one like this anywhere.
Engine only. No prop or controls. I can assist in getting wiring harness and cables. Engine hood is Johnson as the Evinrude hood was stolen off my boat.

$2850


http://images.craigslist.org/3nc3ma3of1f913014c9119a48a64668c7169f.jpg

http://images.craigslist.org/3ma3oc3pe12c1391gc911769579e0d6831446.jpg

[THEFERMANATOR]

SKOOLS has a nack for finding the deals, don't he.

[csvencer]

I have already been talking to that guy. He sold that engine but has another 97 that he is getting rid of. I was going to get some pics of it before I headed down his way.

I have been scowering Craigslist, ebay, THT, etc looking, hopefully I can find what I need.

-SVence

[Stillrunning]

Sorry to hear about you troubles. Try Ron's Marine (Johnson/Evinrude). I get all my work done there.

Quickest way there:

Out of Suffolk 58 to 264
Exit Victory Blvd, turn left
At third light, Airline Blvd turn right
Continue on Airline until you get to Mosberth Resturant right hand side of street.
Turn right on Rodman Ave.
Go through the second or third stop light. (If it's green) :-)
He is on the right hand side of the street, blue building


Ron's Marine & Equipment Inc
2406 Rodman Ave, Portsmouth, VA
(757) 397-3451

If you just get off at the Portsmouth BLVD exit (only exit and direction you can go) and then just go dowm a mile and turn right on Rodman and they are on your right. Just an easier way to go.

[csvencer]

Well here is an interesting twist...

Just spoke with Ron's and he doesn't think it was completely an oil issue. He said the VRO mixes the gas and oil before sending it to the carbs so if one carb/one cylinder got low oil they all would, which doesn't seem like its the case as I have only one bad hole. He said it may be a carb issue that reduced the fuel/oil mix to #6 and eventually fried it.

-Svence

[Skools Out]

no it was oil issue not a carb, ive lost several when the vro stops you usually only loose the last cylinder in the fuel feed for some reason. some times if it happens fast you can loose the first to get the raw fuel. but that is normal to loose only one cylinder they are only wanting to do a complete rebuild and carb job.

[csvencer]

But why then is there no evidence of an issue in the other cylinders? I have good compression on the other five and the top two on the right looked clean when I pulled the head. The two things that I don't get is that it was only a short burst of no oil, I mean short, and that only one cylinder went and the others are perfect.

-Svence

[pikfish]

But why then is there no evidence of an issue in the other cylinders? I have good compression on the other five and the top two on the right looked clean when I pulled the head. The two things that I don't get is that it was only a short burst of no oil, I mean short, and that only one cylinder went and the others are perfect.

-Svence

The reason is simple, You stopped running it before the other cylinders had a chance to destroyed themselves.

[THEFERMANATOR]

The damage normally only happens to one like SKOOLS said. I have a YAMAHA 250 that COMPLETELY lost one cylinder, yet it still ran on the other 5 and they didn't look that bad. It just proves that these engines run on a FINE line of just enough oil to live on with the VRO. If it leans out just a little, you can't predict what will happen. That fractional drop in oil though could have been just enough to finish that cylinder off, while the others escaped. If you think otherwise, look at how many MERCURY's have died on just one cylinder from the crank gear just beginning to slip.

[macojoe]

We found the broken injection arm on my Yamaha, and also was just one cyl.

[reelapeelin]

Did somebody mention PRE-MIX?:zip:

[THEFERMANATOR]

Figured these pics are appropriate to this topic. This engine was on a boat that I bought awhile back. It was a 93 MERCURY XR6 150 with the oil injection removed. The person I bought this from was 17 and had never had a 2 stroke before. The guy he bought it from told him he should double up the oil for the first tank, so he mixed it 100:1 instead of 25:1 like he was told. The other 5 cylinders were fine with 125 compression, but #2 was a DISASTER! And this was on pre-mix so no oil injection to blame, and the carbs were in tip top shape.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/150XR6cyl1-1.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/150XR6cyl1-3.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/150XR6cyl1-2.jpg

[Stillrunning]

Have you tried Budget Boats on Battlefield Blvd. They have a good colection of used motors and they also have news motors.

[csvencer]

Stillrunning,
Thanks for the heads up. Called them and they are fresh out of any johnrudes that would work.

-Svence

[Stillrunning]

Stillrunning,
Thanks for the heads up. Called them and they are fresh out of any johnrudes that would work.

-Svence

Thats surprising. We still need to meet sometime soon and go fishing or just have a beer.

[csvencer]

Ferm - Skools,
Can someone give me a quick rundown on what the process is for doing a powerhead swap? I am no master mechanic but I think I could handle it on my own, I am just not sure what I should expect to be doing. I understand that I will be bolting on all the electronics for the ignition and carbs but what else am I required to do? Once she is all put back together am I good to go or is there timing adjustments, carb tweaking, etc? I am still looking for a total replacement but I have found a rebuilt powerhead for 1900, and he doesn't need my block so I could sell that to get some cash back. Seems like a good deal to me.

-Svence

[Stillrunning]

Ferm - Skools,
Can someone give me a quick rundown on what the process is for doing a powerhead swap? I am no master mechanic but I think I could handle it on my own, I am just not sure what I should expect to be doing. I understand that I will be bolting on all the electronics for the ignition and carbs but what else am I required to do? Once she is all put back together am I good to go or is there timing adjustments, carb tweaking, etc? I am still looking for a total replacement but I have found a rebuilt powerhead for 1900, and he doesn't need my block so I could sell that to get some cash back. Seems like a good deal to me.

-Svence

At home I have this guys number who is moble and maybe you could contact him to see if he would be willing to help you with the job. He knows motors and is fair in his pricing. He worked on my motor for an hour plus and only charged me $75. Not sure if he is still doing moble work as I heard he got a job at some Marina but if you like I could get you his number.

[csvencer]

Send it on over so I atleast have a stand by helper. Thanks.

-Svence

[Stillrunning]

Send it on over so I atleast have a stand by helper. Thanks.

-Svence

I'll get the number tonight and post it here this weekend.

[macojoe]

I am still looking for a total replacement but I have found a rebuilt powerhead for 1900, and he doesn't need my block so I could sell that to get some cash back. Seems like a good deal to me.


Not sure i would got a 1900 motor?? I bet they were gas guzzlers!!

[csvencer]

$1900 is the powerhead completely rebuilt with warranty. Not my favorite option but may be the cheapest at this point.

-Svence

[macojoe]

LOL!!! I thought you were saying what year it was!! :hi:

[THEFERMANATOR]

There is the obvious swapping of all accesories and bolt ons that includes flywheel, stator, pick-up, ignition, coils, harness, starter, plugs, intake, carbs, possiblt reed replacement, thermostats, hoses, fuel pump and so on and so on. Then there is the mounting bolts that can sometimes be a real PITA!!! or just come right out. Then you get to replace the water pump as well, and then go through and do the link and sync on the carbs and ignition, find true top dead center on the new engine and mark the pointer. After you get her started up then you can live through the smoke from the assembly oil burning off as well as paying EXTRA attention to if it's pumping water as well as how hot it will run for the first 30 minutes. After you get some break-in time on it you can reset the total timing and do a quick water test and rough in the idle. Get you a few hours on her and do the final adjustments as well as possibly do some re-jetting of the carbs if the engine you put back on was bored or ported at all.

It is one of them jobs than can go easily or painfully. Also don't forget to figure in AT LEAST $500 for OH SH!TS when doing the job. I have spent more money on OH SH!TS than the actual rebuild on some engines.

[csvencer]

Thanks for dropping a turd in my punchbowl... You make it sound like a real headache. I know your right though, it is one of those projects that if all goes as planned its an hour job, if not break out the check book!

Luckily its only January so I have some time/options. I am still looking.

Thanks for the run down Ferm.

-Svence

[Skools Out]

ferm is right i've had some go easy take 3 to 5 hours to swap and some go bad hard and b!tchy and take 3 days lol. plus the extra $ you always end up needed to fix the oops. if you haven't and are in any fear of something i'd say take it to someone to swap then you can fuss at them if it isn't right plus if you do something wrong i bet they will void the warranty.

[THEFERMANATOR]

This one doesn't appear to be too far from you. Brand new in the crate 150 JOHNSON like yours.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/new-2005-Johnson-150HP-saltwater_W0QQitemZ260344440633QQihZ016QQcategoryZ 111124QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And this one may be worth the drive for you as well to pick up a freshwater motor.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-Johnson-200hp-Ocean-pro-with-all-riggings_W0QQitemZ290285012561QQihZ019QQcategoryZ1 11125QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[csvencer]

Seen both of those. The brand new leftover would be sweet but I am sure he wants way too much for it. I am after a 99 150 with boat and trailer listed for $3900 pretty close to home. Will know more this weekend, he is sending me some pics and additional info.

-Svence

[macojoe]

The 99 looks good and if all ck's out and a little dealing you have a nice motor

I hate fools that don't give you a starting big to get going. That 05 is going to be a good amount, and to start at a $1 is a pain in the a$$

[csvencer]

But at $1 I can feel like a winner!

-Svence

[evilgli]

local and seems like a good deal.

http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/989771584.html

[csvencer]

Just saw that. 850 hrs...seems like a lot???

And I have to add some cash on top for new controls/cables/gauges.

-Svence

[Skools Out]

850 hrs aren't much on that motor, i'd take that Yamaha over a Johnson Evinrude in the same yrs any day. good buy if i have my Sea Ox completed i'd buy it and be riding since i already have all the yamaha controls. a new set of 704 with digital gauges yeah i'm looking for a yamaha for it, i'd just rather have a HPDI 2 Stroke Yamaha 150 cause of the wonder fuel mileage they get.

[csvencer]

He said he had issues with ethanol jamming up the carbs, got them cleaned out and added a 10 micron filter to solve the problem. Besides the carbs is there anything else I should worry about?

-Svence

[Skools Out]

just do a leak down test and you should be good as long as she runs good go take a test ride before it's removed and then report back how that Parker rides lol

[Stillrunning]

Here is a new one on criags list but its a 250 Yam EFI with controls.
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/boa/990988312.html

[Skools Out]

to much for a V20 plus it's a 30" motor

[Stillrunning]

to much for a V20 plus it's a 30" motor

Your know fun. He would need the additional 5 inches so he would have something in the water at WOT.

[csvencer]

Well I am back online. Hung the Yamaha yesterday and spent today finishing up the install. All new steering, controls and tach/harness. Only issue was the oil tank hose was 18" short :( so I have the tank sitting on the deck for now, not under the passenger seat where it should be. Took her for a test drive and with 2 POB and full fuel trimmed down I was 5100 RPM's and trimmed out I maxed at 5600 RPM's so I think that the prop is just right. Thanks for all the help looking for motors and walking me through this.

-Svence

[macojoe]

:thre:

[Skools Out]

so you are going to chance it again with the oil tank?

[csvencer]

Yes I am going to chance it. Although the yamaha system is a hell of a lot more reliable and there are a couple of stages of alarms. The oil tank has an electric pump that only cycles on when the reserve on the engine asks it to and if it doesn't for some reason it alarms. When the remote tank gets low (say 1/4) the reserve won't refill automatically, it alarms and tells you to manually (hit a switch under the cowling) fill the reserve, showing you exactly how much oil you have left. It has enough oil in the remote tank at this time to do that twice. And finally when the remote tank runs dry and the reserve on the motor gets down to 1/3 it alarms and cuts the motor to 1500 RPM's. I am hoping that by the third alarm I know to put oil in!

-Svence

And pics are out for now, the boat is covered and put away as I am not going to be able to use it for a couple of weeks.

[THEFERMANATOR]

If your going to go with the oil injection on it, I would replace that float in the engine mounted tank. If it goes out NONE of your alarms will work. The YAMAHA system has no warning for no oil flow, just simply low oil level in that engine mounted tank. That float switch is the key to all of it. I will admit that the YAMAHA system is known to be a good one, but the float has also been known to be a problem.

[macojoe]

Some people never learn!! :head:

Good Luck!!

[evilgli]

Well I am back online. Hung the Yamaha yesterday and spent today finishing up the install. All new steering, controls and tach/harness. Only issue was the oil tank hose was 18" short :( so I have the tank sitting on the deck for now, not under the passenger seat where it should be. Took her for a test drive and with 2 POB and full fuel trimmed down I was 5100 RPM's and trimmed out I maxed at 5600 RPM's so I think that the prop is just right. Thanks for all the help looking for motors and walking me through this.

-Svence

Chris,

i'm glad to hear you got it on and everything is up and running again. thanks for the props again, i have been looking for a spare for a while. on a side note.. i got to look at my enclosure yesterday and the repair shop and start my engine, but the enclosure is coming together and i'm very pleased with it. should have the boat back in 2 weeks is what i was told.

anyway if you ever need any help or a fishing buddy give me a shout because i can be there in 15 minutes for anything. talk to you later, Paul

[spareparts]

biggest thing you need to watch on the Yamaha oil system is teh hoses from the pump to the intake, make sure those hoses are in good condition and the connections are good. Clean the oil tank while you have it out, get all the old crud out of it. As far as the float switches go, I haven't seen to many problems with them other than crud sticking the float. The tank on the engine has a float switch also, good thing is if the switches go bad, they default to low oil condiditons, reducing rpm till its fixed. BTW, the oil level indicators on the digital guage is miss leading. When its in the green area, you are full of oil, when you hit the yellow or mid way indicator, you need to add oil, that indicator tells you when the resevoir in the boat is low(it also turns the transfer pump off till oil level is restored), not half out of oil. When the indicator gets to the low side(or red) the tank on the engine is too low(last chance) and the rpm limit should kick in. You can use the manual transfer switch to transfer oil from the boat resevoir to the engine resevoir to get you going again, but its not going to last long. If you run it low enough to kick in the rpm limit, you will have to cycle the key, and or manually transfer enough oil to the engine resevoir for the transfer pump to kick back in.

[bigshrimpin]

Hey Spares - Did Yamaha ever add oil injection on their commercial line of motors? I almost 100% sure they didn't at least up through 1998.

[macojoe]

My friend has a commercial Yamaha and No, oil ijection, it is in ther 80's

[spareparts]

to be honest with you, I don't think I have every run across a comercial rated Yamaha. ALl the law enforcement around here run Salt Water Series. There may have been some non oil injected ones that were continuations of the Yamaha/Mariner engines, but I haven't seen one. People around here believe no fault in yamaha engines, if you ask most of them, they will tell they never break and you don't have to work on them. They get a bit nervious when I get the rosebud out to change a water pump. The japanese engines have better paint, but they corrode inside worse than the american motors.

[bigshrimpin]

What's the "rosebud"? :) just kidding . . . I have had to use Acetylene to remove some stubborn nuts. I imagine it would scare the Be-jesus out of some folks. I looked a couple of boats with either 115c or 130c commercial motors . . . I'm pretty sure they were 1996 engines and I was surprised (well not really) to here from the original owner that they didn't come with oil injection. I'm pretty sure OMC's line of commercial line of outboards didn't have oil injection either.

[spareparts]

I learned the hard way about Yamaha lower units, there is a reason they are so much cheaper than Mercs. Any time you take anything apart on them, break out the red wrench

[Skools Out]

Some people never learn!! :head:

Good Luck!!


That's the same i was thinking MJ some people never learn to remove oil injection. He might learn after this one MJ but who knows. :head::head::nut: