Log in

View Full Version : Hi everyone, I recently got a V20 1986 dualC


hardboiled
09-10-2008, 10:58 PM
Hello everyone, this is my first post and im a new owner of a v20.

This is the 2nd boat i ever had, a year ago i had other V20 someone gave to me for Free without trailer, a v20 year 1973 with damage rusted inboard engine and pretty much everything else damage too,including the hull outside in under the front and the floor very soft and the transom soft also, first i started fixing it and spent over $200+ in products but then i found it was not worth fixing it anymore cause all the wood was rotten everywhere, so i got rid of it.

Now i bought this other boat the other day 1986 V20 with a damage 200hp mercury xri year 1992, the engine block has a hole on a side.

I dont know much about boats but im trying to learn, i never had a boat in operating condition before, this i believe will be my first if im able to fix it and find a good working engine, so if any can help me on this a little ill be grateful.

1.. i found that the floor under the captain chair side is rotten and soft, also in the front under the boat hull there is a scratch like the first year73 boat i had but not too severed so i believe some gelcoat will fix it.

Also i figured out the Transom was Cut to make it lower or something, im not sure if that is ok but i cant do anything about and i have to leave it the way it is. I will take some pictures tomorrow to show the boat in here to see if any of you can help me on this.

Another thing i found that this boat was posted here before on the forum sale section with a craiglist link

tsubaki
09-11-2008, 04:30 AM
Add to your signature your location, year of the boat, motor type, size and year. This will help us to quicker diagnose problems.
As always, pictures like you planned.
Being you got a Merc, if one comes available near you, with interchangable parts, you got a headstart. If something else pops up very cheap, then that might be the best way to go.
If you do find a suitable motor, insist on seeing it run and do a compression check. Most everything after that should be easy.
Post questions (and pictures) as you go, this will save you time and money.

CaptJJ
09-11-2008, 06:06 AM
Welcome aboard! :beer:

Skools Out
09-11-2008, 07:03 AM
was that 73 a full inboard or was it an I/O? Man if it was a full inboard that would be my fav. to find one of those.

C YENSEN
09-11-2008, 07:08 AM
Welcome aboard!!!

Skools is back!!!!!! yay!!!:sun::beer:

reelapeelin
09-11-2008, 07:29 AM
Congrats on the new aquisition and welcome to the board...if an outboard(sounds like it due to transom cut down), you might want to consider rebuilt power-head...a "hole-in-one" in this game ain't a good thing...if the transom was cut down, as long as it is SEALED and not seeping water into it, you oughtta be OK...

Pictures when you can...

macojoe
09-11-2008, 11:05 AM
welcome!! sounds like you got your work cut out for you, but we all have done it!! Everyone here has had to do one or more of all the things you have listed!!

tsubaki
09-11-2008, 11:06 AM
Just to give you some idea of a reman powerhead.
Average core charge you will have to pay being yours ain't salvagable $700. Average powerhead (your type) with 1 year warrenty $2800 and up.
Chances are fair you will run across an engine with a damaged foot or even a derlict rig with a good engine for around $1500.

hardboiled
09-11-2008, 08:03 PM
was that 73 a full inboard or was it an I/O? Man if it was a full inboard that would be my fav. to find one of those.
It was I/O..

I'm in Miami,FL.

I came from work late and tired so i didnt take pictures of the boat yet, tomorrow will see.
thanks for the replys this forum is looking great.

Ok ill be back tomorrow, im out.
:zip:

tsubaki
09-12-2008, 06:27 AM
There ought to be a lot of motors the same as yours available with a destroyed foot laying around.
Around here it 's the opposite, most people blow the engine and have foots laying around.

reelapeelin
09-12-2008, 07:22 AM
It was I/O..

I can't figure the part about the cut down transom on an I/O...:head:

...but I wouldn't think in the greater Miami-Dade area you'd have much probs findin' repower for your "V"...:news:

THEFERMANATOR
09-12-2008, 09:23 AM
He's talking about 2 different boats here. He had a 73 I/O and now he has an 86 outboard with a cut down transom. In 86 the transom could have been cut down by the factory as well though as 20" and 25" were both options at that time. As for your XRI, that is one POWERFUL SOB when it's running, but it sounds like somebody done tweaked the goody out of her. The XRI's were cheater engines that pushed the 10% rule for ALL it was worth. I know my 150 XRI I had on my flat's boat was one MEAN sucker. The 200 XRI's were said to run with any of the bigger 225 MERCURY feeshin motors. As for an engine, there are plenty of good used 200HP 2.5L powerheads around. I would head over to screamandfly .com as them guys are all MERC fans and you can possibly find a good freshawater only powerhead over there. Your also close to LAKE O, there are alot of good used engines over there as well(That's where I picked my cherry 150 up at).

randlemanboater
09-12-2008, 10:57 AM
Welcome to the site! You have come to the right place for all of the answers....boating and otherwise.

bradford
09-12-2008, 11:41 PM
Welcome! Try some of the green Kool-Aide, you'll like it. Everyone else does it. The chicks will think you're cool.:beer:

hardboiled
09-12-2008, 11:50 PM
Here where i mark in red have a scratch missing the gelcoat a little
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/b2-1.jpg

Here soft floor all around this area, maybe the water got inside under the captain chair? not sure.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/b3-1.jpg

soft around these circles, how i fix or fill with something between both fiber glass layer to make it firm?
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/b4-1.jpg

here a view of the transom cut, it looks fine to me but i was just wondering if thats fine, because i havent seen any other of these boats like that. IF is ok then nothing to worry.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/b5.jpg

other view, i had to take these photos with the cellular cause i couldnt find batteries for the digital camara but either way is the same.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/b7.jpg

bradford
09-13-2008, 12:01 AM
Depending on how soft the floor is, that might be the biggest problem. If it's just a little soft I would live with it. V20's came from the factory with lower transoms like yours. Be careful backing down or beaching the boat with waves coming over the transom--other than as long as it's solid (lift up on the motor to see if there's any movement in the transom) you should be ok. The gel coat chipped off the keel can be fixed with fiberglass or marine tex. It's all something thats been fixed before by someone else on this board.

Try using the search feature. There's tons of info available.

macojoe
09-13-2008, 03:09 AM
Soft deck plates, thats the gas tank cover, many many are soft!! Remove the whole panale and take all wood of, they will be small squares, you will replace with one sheet ply.
Transom is factory cut and you must have a 20" shaft motor. Might want to remove motor and take the Alum cap off and ck wood, if all is well, (sorry but I bet there if damage) then glass over sand and paint and seal forever, it the beast way.
The floor is by far the worst fix, but cut it out till you ind good wood and start adding new ply. Save the skin of the floor so you just reglass it to the new wood.

randlemanboater
09-13-2008, 07:26 AM
That is the same transom that I have, it is factory and the cap on it is fiberglass. When I swapped engines I tried to take mine off but I think they used resin to put it on.....anyway, my transom was fine, I just sealed up the seams around it with 5200 (man I hate that stuff) and stuck on the new motor.

One thing I did have to do was grind a little on the cap where the steering arm is cause it was rubbing. I just put a little paint on it to keep it from sucking water in.

randlemanboater
09-13-2008, 07:27 AM
Oh, and in Miami, you will probably be able to get a good used OB out of some rich guys trashcan.:beer:

reelapeelin
09-13-2008, 10:27 AM
Thanks for straightenin' me out, Ferm...and ain't pics wonderful thangs!!...:sun:

hardboiled
09-13-2008, 01:34 PM
great thanks all.

I found some outboards on craigslist, will any of these blocks fit the one i have? I will take a picture of the engine block to show you all the hole it has on the block side.

this one doesnt look like the engine i have http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/boa/835511868.html

This looks alot like the same model i have
http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/boa/838617227.html

tsubaki
09-13-2008, 02:06 PM
With every engine manufacturer there will be subtile or gross differences in powerheads of the same horsepower, given the year models.
The possibility exists that the foot may be interchangable more readily than the powerhead.
Each one is not running, you should be able to find one that runs for $1500.

tsubaki
09-13-2008, 02:12 PM
Looking to see what years might be interchangable, found one with your same problem.
http://madison.craigslist.org/boa/824271693.html

1992 Mercury 200 hp Outboard EFI

Reply to: [email protected] ([email protected]?subject=1992%20Mercury%20 200%20hp%20Outboard%20EFI) [? (http://www.craigslist.org/about/help/replying_to_posts)]
Date: 2008-09-02, 4:44PM CDT



1992 Mercury 200 hp Outboard EFI, blown powerhead. Engine not seized but there is a hole in the block behind the starter. Great lower unit/ trim tilt etc. $1000 608-332-6110
http://images.craigslist.org/01150501030501040520080902813df91537e2d106d800acfb .jpg

tsubaki
09-13-2008, 02:15 PM
So far it looks like "92-"99's are the same.
Other than being either carburated or fuel injected.

THEFERMANATOR
09-13-2008, 02:39 PM
91+ 2.5L's will all interchange easily. You could even pick-up a 150 OPTIMAX and bolt onto it. If you get the right poppet set-up installed in it, you can also use the earlier 2.0L's and 2.4L's. The 2.0L's, 2.4L's, and 2.5L's all use the same bolt pattern on the mounting surface. EFI or carb makes no difference. The exhaust tuners did change depending upon which HP engine or size you have. As well as changes in the cooling pressure and flow depending upon the displacement. 91+ 2.5L's are pretty plentiful as they tend to be thirsty and most are updating there power. BIGSHRIMPIN has ALOT of parts that will fit that mid section.

BUILDERFL recently picked up a complete late model 2.4L for cheap that needed switchboxes. He took the parts off his old one and was back on the water for under $1K.

Here's his thread.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=9896&page=2

hardboiled
09-13-2008, 03:54 PM
more pics
Is this thing worth anything? i took it off from the other 73'/v20 i had, it looks like new.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0138.jpg
this piece is badly rusted
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0116.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0117.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0118.jpg
this looks ok?who knows? me ?i dont know.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0119.jpg
is this suppose to lean to the transom or goes like this
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0123.jpg
scratch i talk about before
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0125.jpg
Do i need to sand the whole the bottom and paint it again or with gelcoat alone is enough?
Trailer galvanize crossbar frame getting looking very rusted, Can i sand it and use some special paint?
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0126.jpg
Here the hole on the block
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0127.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0132.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0133.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0134.jpg
I was told the engine was a 92' not sure.

macojoe
09-13-2008, 05:08 PM
Just remember if you going to buy a different motor to use, You need a 20" shaft!!

tsubaki
09-13-2008, 06:52 PM
FERM, where are the model/serial #'s on these things?
Do you have pictures of them and the freeze plug looking thing with the numbers stamped in them?
hard, just as soon as we can get you to post pictures of the motors serial/model #, we can tell you what year it is.
Quite possibly this is it.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/SSPX0134.jpg
hard, either take a picture of the numbers on this shiney round plug or write them down and give them to us (if that is the serial # plug).

tsubaki
09-13-2008, 08:23 PM
Yes it is worth something to the person that really wants one, I removed mine and went railless.

http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0138.jpg
Rusted pieces, it's now a parts motor. Don't worry about them. Maybe scoot some oil on them, just because.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0117.jpg
The motor may or may not be set on the backsplash, depending on the best performance location. That's normal.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0119.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0123.jpg
Looks like Marine Tex should fix these.
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0125.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/001-20.jpg
And as far as for this
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0126.jpg
Here is your special paint
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/Picture236-3.jpg
Here is a better picture of the serial # plug. This is on a 75hp Mariner.
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/Picture084.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w159/tsubaki3/Picture082.jpg
Well maybe not the Mariner (I can't remember) but you get the idea.

THEFERMANATOR
09-13-2008, 09:20 PM
MERC URY has a welch plug in the block and there should be a metal tag on the port side of the pivot bracket I believe with the numbers. I'll try and get out tommorrow and snap a few pics of the tag locations on my old parts engine I have. The XRI's started in 89 with the 2.4L's, but that one looks like a 2.5L to me. I see the oil injection module on it, but no oil tank. Guess somebody rigged it up to keep the self test horn and water in fuel alarm. That rust in your pictures isn't major compared to some of the salty dog engines as those parts are just regular steel. TSUBAKI them pics of the welch plug you posted are of an OMC, you can tell by the OMC M stamped in it. That 200 is a good engine when it's running, but they are one of the fuel thirstiest 200 pigs ever built. The 200 XRI's are said to be 240HP LASER engines with a 200 exhaust tuner. You could always pick up another 200 carb motor and transfer the injection over to it.

phatdaddy
09-13-2008, 10:07 PM
Is that a 1 piece cowling? didn't they start in 93? my steering arm has a lot more rust than that, but i am going to change it out this winter.........

THEFERMANATOR
09-13-2008, 10:36 PM
I believe all of the XRI's had 1 piece cowlings. Seen a 90 before with original 1 piece cowling instead of the clam shell.

hardboiled
09-14-2008, 12:07 AM
Cool. im getting an idea on what to do with each part. thanks

The person i bought this boat from told me that they burned this engine because they forgot to put OIL in the fuel tank.?

so CARB more economic on gas than EFI?

THEFERMANATOR
09-14-2008, 12:47 AM
They each have there finer points. The EFI system is slightly easier cold starting, and tends to idle and troll better without loading up as bad. Carbs are said to be slightly better at cruise for milage. The EFI is quite a bit smoother compared to carbs IMO, and the throttle response is UNREAL!

This is cylinder #2 after being run at 100:1. This was on a boat I bought with the engine this way(A 93 150 XR6)
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/150XR6cyl1-3.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/150XR6cyl1-1.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t271/THEFERMANATOR/150XR6cyl1-2.jpg

THEFERMANATOR
09-15-2008, 08:22 PM
Found this one tonight, though you may be interested in the 4 bolt tune-up option.

http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/boa/842073308.html

tsubaki
09-15-2008, 08:29 PM
Good thing I don't like dark meat or I'd be all over that!!!

macojoe
09-15-2008, 08:34 PM
Looks like a 20' shaft

THEFERMANATOR
09-15-2008, 09:12 PM
Looks like a 20' shaft

That's what he said he has. There's a 200HP in the LAKELAND one for the same money that's been listed several times.

hardboiled
09-18-2008, 09:53 AM
Everyone take a look of what i have left of the 1973/v20 boat i had before, the boat doesnt exist anymore, i cut it in pieces with a saw. I doubt anyone in this world can find it LOL..:head:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/boat1_2272x1704.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/Picture_098.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/Picture_096.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/Picture_095.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/Picture_099.jpg
If anyone find my boat let me know cause i cut it in 150 pieces

reelapeelin
09-19-2008, 08:12 AM
Everyone take a look of what i have left of the 1973/v20 boat i had before, the boat doesnt exist anymore, i cut it in pieces with a saw. I doubt anyone in this world can find it LOL..:head:
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/boat1_2272x1704.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/Picture_098.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/Picture_096.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/Picture_095.jpg
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/Picture_099.jpg
If anyone find my boat let me know cause i cut it in 150 pieces



Didja save the slidin' hatch-lid off the front?...and the widshield?...any hardware?...ANYTHING??...

hardboiled
09-20-2008, 01:51 PM
yes i did keep the most of the parts and pieces, but i didnt keep the windshield.

Many of the stainless steel parts i keep from the 73' boat are made of a better quality than the one on the 86' boat, so i look forward to replace some of then.
The fuel cap looks great made of stainless steel and the one on this boat is made of plastic.

------
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0125.jpg
Today im mounting the boat on concrete blocks to remove trailer out.
--Theres something i need to know, how do i remove the Blue paint from the bottom of the hull?? is it there a special liquid to remove paint without the need to sand it? or which way is best and also i need to know how to make the bottom shine like new. If i were to paint it do i use Gelcoat only or i need some other type of paint?

---To bond the hull damage parts, Gelcoat powder mix with resine and make a paste, is this good enough to seal the gelcoat damage parts or do i need to apply Gelcoat alone in those areas?

I dont want to take long time to fix and paint, cause i need to get the engine fix asap.

reelapeelin
09-20-2008, 03:37 PM
yes i did keep the most of the parts and pieces, but i didnt keep the windshield.

Many of the stainless steel parts i keep from the 73' boat are made of a better quality than the one on the 86' boat, so i look forward to replace some of then.
The fuel cap looks great made of stainless steel and the one on this boat is made of plastic.

------
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r194/Hardboiledx/SSPX0125.jpg
Today im mounting the boat on concrete blocks to remove trailer out.
--Theres something i need to know, how do i remove the Blue paint from the bottom of the hull?? is it there a special liquid to remove paint without the need to sand it? or which way is best and also i need to know how to make the bottom shine like new. If i were to paint it do i use Gelcoat only or i need some other type of paint?

---To bond the hull damage parts, Gelcoat powder mix with resine and make a paste, is this good enough to seal the gelcoat damage parts or do i need to apply Gelcoat alone in those areas?

I dont want to take long time to fix and paint, cause i need to get the engine fix asap.


Askin' some of these guys for help while wavin' an Obama sign at 'em may not be the best approach to take...don't know for sure...just guessin'...:hi::hi:

THEFERMANATOR
09-20-2008, 03:52 PM
Askin' some of these guys for help while wavin' an Obama sign at 'em may not be the best approach to take...don't know for sure...just guessin'...:hi::hi:

Me thinks he has a point with this one. As for your bottom problem, you will need to sand it down to get it clean and use some pokyester type fiberglass filler to patch the gel coat spots. Also make usre that if the gel-coat is missing that it didn't go into the fiberglass. If it did then you need to build the fiberglass back up then build it up with filler. With the condition of your bottom I would go with an epoxy barrier coat(2-3 coats), and then go with a hard bottom paint if you trailer or an ablative wearable bottom paint for a boat that stays in the water.

taqwache
09-30-2008, 02:42 AM
LOL, the inserted Obama and McCain banners in the pics crack me up.

msbhammer
10-01-2008, 09:50 PM
Just reading this post now. Hammer has alot of catching up to do. WOW, a newbie with a digital camera. I like this guy already !! LOL !!!
You must be my long lost orphan brother from the mailman that mom was friendly with because I had the same exact problems with my hull and fuel hatch cover.
It all may look hard, but it isnt. I did all the work myself on my V. These guys here told me what to do and it all worked out great. These guys will soon become family with ya.
well except maybe Charlie. He hates everyone. : 0-

macojoe
10-01-2008, 10:35 PM
well except maybe Charlie. He hates everyone. : 0-


Unless you are Gay!!