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Boostin240sx
07-31-2008, 01:10 PM
The boat is a 72’ V20 with a 150hp Evinrude. I am wondering whether the transom is bad or not. How much should the transom flex when pushing up and down on the lower unit. 1/16 or 1/8 or less? When I push on areas of the transom there are not any soft spots that depress in.

If it is bad… I am debating whether to go the traditional way or Arjay 6011 method. Is the Arjay any less structurally sound than the traditional? Disadvantage…. Advantages…?

If I were to use the traditional method let me make sure I have this right….


Lift the top cap off to obtain access to the entire top of the transom.
Remove the old wood.
Cut two 3/4" marine grade plywood pieces to shape and epoxy the together (What kind of epoxy should I use?).
Lower into the empty cavity.
Shim to maintain 1/4" gaps on both side of the wood and a consistent transom thickness.
Fill the gaps with epoxy resin. (Again, what kind is recommended?)
Put the cap back on and put it all back together.

tsubaki
07-31-2008, 01:19 PM
I did (traditional) what you said except didn't use any wood, had some fiberglass sheets about 1/2" thick and packed woven cloth as I poured, think about 8 gallons worth.

tsubaki
07-31-2008, 01:21 PM
Oh, welcome to the site and hows about some pictures??

tsubaki
07-31-2008, 01:27 PM
And I honestly don't know that without prior knowledge you can recognise a bad transom unless it's severe.
Mine barely flexed with me standing on the motor with it tilted up and jumping like a horney monkey, it wasen't till I was going to do away with the cap that I discovered how bad it was.
All in all the only place that had good wood was directly in the center where the motor bolted. All the wood on either side was like dust.
If the motor bounce test don't prove anything, remove the cap and probe down and to the sides with a long skinney screwdriver, antenna or coat hanger, this may give some indication.
Don't be shy about drilling holes in suspect locations, these can be patched with Marine-Tex if a pour is not needed at this time.

macojoe
07-31-2008, 04:21 PM
When lifting on the lower unit of the motor, are you hearing any cracking? Do you see any cracks??

That much flex I would not worry about it, just use till you have a problem, could be good for years!

But if you really want to go further, go on the inside of the boat, drill a 1/4" Hole start at the bottom and drill a few till you get to he top. When done fill holes with 5200 or something to stop any new water getting in.

What comes out of the hole:

Dirt is rot!
dark or black wood, wet
clean wood, Perfect!!

willy
07-31-2008, 06:09 PM
Or borrow a moisture meter and check there first, the good ones will tell you what moisture content there is, if is real bad it tells you on the graph.
All the surveyors and a lot of boat dealers have them and use them all the time.

Jetty Rocker
07-31-2008, 06:54 PM
I did as mentioned and drilled a small hole just above the drain plug and a strong stream of water came out of my transom. I cut the back out of mine and did the dirty work, then bought the beer for a friend that does fiberglass work for a living to finish the repair. He used 3/4 marine plywood (2 thickness) and he used West System resin and hardener and biaxle cloth. My transon came out solid as a rock and I built it up 5 inches so I can use 25 inch shaft motors. I think if I had it to do over I would take the cap off so I could inspect the stringers and repair them if needed. The other suggestion that I have is to not put the drain plug in the original spot (since this puts the bottom of the plug @2 inches from the bottom) and the bilge never fully drains. In the fall I am going to fill in my drain plug and use a garboard type with a "T" handle and put it through the bottom in the bilge. Take lots of pictures and post.

macojoe
07-31-2008, 08:09 PM
You did as I mentioned?? I just said it today and the thing is fixed?? Wow you guys are fast!!

Congrats!!!!!!!!!! But

:thre:

nymack66
07-31-2008, 10:58 PM
As for the approach your call see links below,
http://www.nida-core.com/pdfs/pds/no...d_transom1.pdf
http://www.arjaytech.com/products/DS/ds60.htm
http://transomrepair.com/SkinRemoval/
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...hlight=transom
I am in the process of replacing mine see my thread under reapirs

Jetty Rocker
08-01-2008, 05:58 AM
Macajoe I did not originate this thread, I was just confirming your approach. I didn't even know about this site until after I had repaired my transom and had my V20 on the water. And my repair streched out over a 2-3 month period. Sorry if I mislead you with my reply. I sure wish I HAD known about this site prior to reviving the Jetty Rocker.

macojoe
08-01-2008, 06:36 AM
Sorry !!!!! My Bad!:zip:Anyone seen my meds??

Boostin240sx
08-01-2008, 07:07 AM
It is actually a boat that I was about to purchase, but yesterday when I came to hand over my check and take it home I noticed two major finds.

1. The transom seemed very solid and didn't have any flex or cracks of any sort.
2. The genius who decided to put indoor/ outdoor carpet on a fiberglass deck caused it to rot sunstantially and more of the floor was bad than I anticipated. An area about 3' x 7' would have to be replaced. There were two cracks from fore to aft that went from just being a crack that is just seperated to having differences in heights up to an inch or more. Also due to the two cracks that portion of the deck is twist and raised up about 1.5". Based on comparing my measurements from port side to starboard where the deck meets the gunnel in the damaged area it is out posistion to almost level with the center of the floor instead of a few inched higher.

So for the price I decided it wasn't worth the price for what I would have to put in it, I would like to find another V20 though in a bit better shape.

macojoe
08-01-2008, 08:06 AM
There is more were that one came from!! Another will be along soon I am sure!!